
Glass. 
Book 



jO~C'o-i.<^ 







^i£lii tlae IR ©lathes 1© 

THE 

SPmiNGH.NIAGAMA, &> QI^JEBBf\ 
^ also — — - — -- 




J Si' J . HARPER. 



THE 



NORTHERN TRAVELLERt 



NORTHER]^ TOUR; 

WITH THE ROUTES TO 

THE SPRINGS, NIAGARA, AND QUEBFX\ 

AND THE 

COAL MINES OF PENNSYLVANIA; 

ALSO, THE 

TOUR OF NFAV-ENGLAND. 

I 



Embellished with, thirty-hvo Copperplate Engravings. 

FOURTH EDITION, REVISED AND EXTENDED, 



NEW-YORK 



PRINTED BY J. & J. HARPER, 82 Cliff-St. 

Sold by Collins & Hannay, Collins & Co., O. A. Roorbacli, W. B. Gilley, 
. E. Bliss, A . T. Goodricli, C. S. Francis, J. E. Belts, D. Felt, M'Elrath 
" & Bangs, N. B. Holmes, W. Burgess, J. W.Bleecker, J. Lea vitt ;— Alba- 
ny, O. Steele, and Little & Cummings ;— Utica, William Williams ;— 
Rochester, E. Peck «fe Co. ;— Canandaigua, Morse, Ward, & Co, :— Biif- 
"'aln, Pav, Fallett, &c Haskins. 



1630- 



■F7. 



ip 



D?Sf 



SeUTHERN DISTRICT OF NEW- YORK, ss. 
BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the twenty-second day of A pril,A.D. 
1830, in the fifty-fourth year of the Independence of the United States of 
Anrierica, J. & J. Harper, of the said District, have deposited in this office 
the title of a Book, the right whereof they claim as proprietors, in the 
words following, to wit: 

"The Northern Traveller and Northern Tour, with the Routes to the 
Sprinss, Niagara, and Quebec, and the Coal Mines of Pennsylvania ; also, 
the Tour of NfW-Ensland. En bellished with thirty-two Copperplate 
Engravings. Fourth Edition, revised and extended." 

In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States, entitled 
" An act for tiie encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of 
maps, charts, and books to the authors and proprieiors of such copies, 
during the times therein mentioned." And also to the act, entitled, " An 
act supplementary to an act, entitled an act for the encouragement of 
learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books to the authors 
and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned, and 
extendintr the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and 
rsrohing historical and other prints." 

FREDERICK I. BETTS, 
Hf^^k of the SovthfTv District of J\re?n- Ycrl:. 



FRESFACt:* 



Great exertions have been made to obtain ac- 
counts of all changes that have taken place on the 
various routes embraced within the range of the 
Northern Traveller, since the publication of the last 
edition, as well as to add all necessary remarks 
on such subjects as had before escaped notice ; and 
it will be found that few pages have been passed 
without the insertion of something new, while many 
have been entirely written over again, and consi- 
derable additions have been made. 

The rapid sale which may now be calculated on. 
in comiexion with other circumstances, have ena- 
bled the publishers, this season, to offer the work 
at a greatly reduced price, while additions have 
been made to its embellishments. 

The plan of the " Northern Traveller" was ori- 
ginally suggested by a reflection on the immense 
numbers of intelligent persons who annually visit 
the most interesting scenes in our Northern and 
Middle States ; and a knowledge of the great ad- 
vantages which are derived from ^vorks of a cor- 
responding description in Europe. No pains have 
been spared to render it useful, as well as interest- 
ing; and, as far as the necessary brevity would 
permit, the peculiar character of our citizens, and 
the nature of the country have been kept in viev 
in the plan and scope of thf^. work 



OKJVKRAL IJ^DKX. 



Page 

City of New-York ...... 9 

From New- York to Niagara .... 20 

« " to the Springs . . 20—55. 129 

« " to Canada . . .do. do. 

« *' to Connecticut River and > ^^^ 

the White Mountains S 

" to Boston . . 246—258. 297 

City of Philadelphia ...... 402 

From Philadelphia to New- York . . ,432 

" " to the Coal Mines . . 414 

City of Boston . . • • • .318 

From Boston to the Springs . . . .329 

« " to the White Mountains . . 333 

" " to Maine 362 

City of Washington 383 

City of Baltimore 389 



VIEWS FROM NATURE. 

Congress Hall (facing title.) 

Scenery on the Mohawk River , . 5T 

Niagara, from below the Cataract . . .87 

Ballston 145 

Saratoga ......•» 153 

Lake George . 166 

Ticonderoga ,,,.... 179 

Mount Holyoke ,278 

The Notch or Willey House, (Wliite Mountains) 354 



^i/^kiiKAl- IISD1<.\ 



MAPS. 

Page 
General Map of the Routes .... 9 
Hudson River, No. 1 . . . . . 20 

" " No. 2 24 

" No. 3 31 

" " No. 4, Canals to Schenectady > .^ 

and Sandy HiU \ ' ^ 

Erie Canal, to Herkimer ..... 56 

" " to Salina , .... 62 

'^ to Rochester 68 

" " to Lockport, and Road to Niagara 72 

'« " to Buffalo 109 

" to Lyons, and Road by Geneva, &c. 116 

'' " to Syracuse, and Road by Auburn 121 

lYom Fort Edward to Whitehall and Lake George 163 

Lake George and Lake Champlain . . . 176 

Lake Champlain » 190 

St. John's to Montreal , , . . .194 
Island of Montreal . . . . . . 206 

St. Lawrence River, from Montreal to Quebec . 212 
Connecticut River, from Hartford to the Mouth 256 



3/(ip o^ the Heittfs 
Draim lor tl 




THE 



NORTHERN TRAVELI.ER. 



THE CITY OF NEW-YORK. 

Hotels and Boarding Houses. The Adelphi, opposite 
the Bowling-Green. Mansion House, (Bunker,) 
39 Broadway. City Hotel. National Hotel.' Frank- 
lin House. American Hotel. Washington Hall, cor- 
ner of Broadway and Reed-street. Mrs. Southard, 
Mrs. Mann, Mrs. Keese, Mr. Storer, &c. There are 
also the U. S. Hotel, Tontine, Bank, and N. Y. Coffee 
Houses, Tammany Hall, Pearl-st. House, N. Y. Ho- 
tel, &c. 

The stranger is advised to purchase a pocket map 
of the city, if he is to remain here a few days ; as 
without it he will often find himself at a loss. 

The Battery is a pleasant walk in warm weather ; 
and Castle Garden has a fine promenade. On summer 
evenings the place is supplied with music, and often 
fireworks. 

Steamboats for Philadelphia. The boats of the 
Union and Citizen's Lines start from the wharf just 
north of the Battery, in Washington-street, at 6 A.M. 
and at noon. 

T/ie Staten Island Steamboats go from the foot of 
Whitehall-street, at the lower end of the Battery. 

Broadway, the most fashionable promenade in the 
city, is most crowded with passengers between 1 and 
3 o'clock ; or, in hot weather, after dinner. Going 
up from the Battery, you pass the Bowling Green, a 
new hotel, called the Adelphi House, many genteel 
B 



lU tlTV OF :^EW-\.OKK. 

boarding houses, particularly the Mansion House ; 
Aud then Grace church, and Trinity church. 

The property of this church is very great, lying in 
large tracts of land now covered by the city streets. 
Opposite, opens Wall-street, which contains the first 
Presbyterian church, most of the banks, with the 
Branch of the U. S. Bank, together with numerous 
Insurance and Brokers'' Offices. 

The JVew-York Exchange. This building is of 
white marble from Westchester, and fronts Wall- 
street, between William and Pearl-streets. It has 
four marble columns in front, made of single shafts. 
The exchange room is large and resorted to by mer- 
chants between 1 and 3 o'clock. The building con- 
tains the Post Office on the ground floor, the Commer- 
cial Reading- Rooms above, with several Insurance 
Offices, and the offices of Daily Papers. There is a 
telegraph on tlie top to communicate Avith Sandy 
Hook, to get early intelh'gence of vessels. On arriving*, 
they show Hags by which they may be designated 30 
miles from Staten Island. The view from the cupola 
embraces the wl^ole city. 

Returning to Broadway, beyond Trinity church is 
the City Hotel; opposite, the National Hotel; and h 
little further, Cec/ar and Courtlandt-streets, leading west 
to the docks on Hudson river, whence some of tlie 
Albany steam boats start. At the latter street is also the 
Jersey City Ferry — Is. 

The Franklin House, corner of Dey-st. and Broad- 
way. Fulton-street leads to Fulton Market, on the 
East river. (There is the lower Brooklyn ferry, 4 
cents ; at the next dock below, are the Jyeza-port and 
Providence steamboats; and just above, f/jc steamboats 
for Flushing, JVorrva Ik, Stamford, Bridgeport, Stratford, 
New-London and jYorzivich.) 

St. PauVs Church in Broadway is next above Fulton- 
street. A monument was raised in the portico of this 
church some years ago, to General Montgomery ; and 
in 1818 the remains of that brave officer were brought 



OirV OF INEW'-VOJiK. 1 I 

iVom (c^uebec and deposited here, \\kh military 
honours. Just beyond, is Poffh exJdhitioii of Pictures, 
then the Park, on the opposite of which is the Theatre, 
near Avhich is Clinton Hall, and the Bible Society^a 
Depository* in the rear. In the same street [JVassau) 
is the American Tract Society''s building. f Park Place, 
on the left, where are Coleman's Literary Rooms and 
Exhibition, leads to Columbia College ; and the City 
Hall is in the Park, with the Debtor's Prison on the 
east, and Bridezs^ell on the west. Barclay -street leads 
to Hoboken ferry, and the Albany steamboats. 

The JVew-York Institution is behind the City Hall. 

The Savings Bank is on the opposite side of Cham- 
bers-street. [There were deposites made, in 1829, to 
the amount of $624,900, by 11,937 individuals, almost 
all poor persons.] Adjoining the latter are the JVew- 
York Baths and the Arcade Baths, which are commo- 
dious, ar.d well attended, wilh separate entrances 
leading to the ladies' baths. The Exhibition Ptoom 
of the National Academy of the Arts of Design and the 
Manhattan Water Works are just at hand. From the 
latter a considerable portion of the dwellings in the 
lower part of the city are supplied with water, though 
not of very good quality. The Court of Sessions is in the 
Rotunda, which was formerly devoted to Panoramas. 

[A short distance eastward. Chambers-street leads 
to Chatham-street : then turning to the left you may 
proceed to the Chatham Theatre, Chatham-square, the 
Bowery, tlie Bowery Theatre, &lc. k,c.] 

On the other hand. Chambers-street leads west- 
ward to the Hudson river ; and at the foot of Warren- 
street, next below it, is the Public Marine Bath. 

* Opposite the Depository, is a workshop, erected in 1827, where a 
«teaiii engine is seen on the first floor, which works ejjrht power presses, 
in wliicii bibles are priuled: on tlie second, uhovc, are twenty other 
]iresses. 1'iie power piessns do double the work of the common press ; 
and all touether can print 400 reams of pajier in a week. S«v€nty-Gne 
persons are employed in this department. In iho other building the 
biiidini; is done by 112 persons. 

t In the American Tract Society's house are nr-'. mmmoti, and four 
■M'.vor nres-ies. drixm. br niiiies. 



12 



CITY OF AEW-YORK. 



Returning:, and going on up Broadway, 5^ou pas-i 
Washington Hal). [Duane-street leads, on the left, to 
Rutgers' Medical College, and Public School, JVo. 1 1, on 
the ground floor of which is an Infant School.] Masonic 
Hall and the JVew-York Hospital are a little beyond ; 
and Scudder's Museum is to be removed to the corner 
of Anthony-street. 

This fifie broad street continues about a mile and a 
half further on, perfectly straight, and nearly all built 
with brick houses ; but contains no public buildings, 
except a new Goihic churcB. 

There is also in the city an Orphan Asylum. 

A tine part of the city lies north-west trom the hos- 
pital, about Hudson-square. The streets are there 
more regular, and the square itself is very fine, with 
St. John's church in front, which has the tallest spire 
in New-York. 

Among the other public buildings, which it is not 
easy to point out more particularly, are the Roman 
Catholic Cathedral, and the numerous places of public 
worship in all parts of the city. These amounted in 
1824, to 84 in all, and are now above 100. The State 
Prison, Penitentiary, Fever Hospital, House of Refuge 
for juvenile delinquents. Lunatic Asylum: these are 
all at a distance from the centre of the city. 

Public Schools. The Public School Society have 
eight large brick houses in different parts of the city, 
averaging about 42 by 85 feet in size, valued with 
their furniture, at about $150,000 ; and the encum- 
brances, for money borrowed, about $50,000. About 
5000 children are educated at these schools, most of 
whom pay a small sum, from 25 cents to $1,25 per 
quarter ; but none are excluded who are unable to 
pay. The schools are furnished with maps, globes, 
libraries, &c. and a uniform system, alter the Lancas- 
leridi plan, is adopted in them all.* Two of them 

* Common School Fund and Common Schools in the State of.lVew- York. 
— The foundation of the Common School Fund for the State of New- 
York was laid in the year 1809. and the first distribution of tlie incoine 
look place in ]81t!. 



UlTY OF :NEW-\OIiK. '^'^ 

.lie tor Africans. The Higfi^School receives scholars 
in higher branches. The Infant Schools are highly- 
interesting institutions. The Sunday Schools deserve 
particular notice for their usefulness ; also the Me- 
chanics' Society's School. 

The AthencBum is a literary institution lately- 
formed. The City Library is large, and there are 
others belonging to the Societies of Merchants' Clerks, 
Apprentices, &c. There are Circulating Libraries 
at several of the Bookstores in Broadway and else- 
Avhere. 

The Fire Engines are remarkable for their beauty 
and excellence, as the Fire Department is for its effi- 
ciency and usefulness. There are 47 engines, besides 
five tfook and Ladder companies. 

The City Hall contains the common council 
chamber, with portraits of Washington, Hamilton, 
Jefterson, and Thompson ; court rooms, the police 

The prnductive capital of this fund is invested in bonds and mortgages, 
canal and hank stncks, and now amount to $), 661,081, and produces aii 
income of about $95,000. 

T!)e Siate owns 880,000 acres of land, valued at $411,288, wliich lands 
Hre, by the Constitution of the State, i)ied«ed for the support of common 
schools. This gives a grand total of $2,042,113, exclusive of the local 
school fund, and of a larffe capital denoniiiiated the "Literary Fund:" 
the income from which is annually paid towards the support of colleges 
and academies. 

In 1829, $214,840 was paid towards the support of common schools — 
of this sum $100,000 was paid from the Stale Treasury, $11,905 from 
the income of the loan school fund, and $102,934 was raised by tax. 
The school la'.v requires that a sum shall be assessed on ihcjr taxable 
inhabitants equal to the sum wliich is paid from the State Treasury to 
each town, and by a vote at their town meetings double the amount may 
be raised by tax. 

There are 56 counties, 742 cities, towns, and wards, every one of 
which made detailed official returns of their schools to the Secretary of 
State, in 1827. 

The number of school districts was 8994, the schools in which 
contained, in 1827, 441,856 children, wiio were taught on an average G 
months. In 1829, 480,825 ciiildren were taught in the Common Scliools, 
at an expense to the public of $511,888 for teachers' pay alone. 

The private schools in the State of New- York are also very numerous, 
and it is a low estimate to suppose the sum of $500,000 is annually ex- 
pended in the state for schools. 

Tn 1828. 27fi..'i83 votes were polled in the state of New-York, 



14 CITY OF NEW- YORK. 

office, &;c. &c. The top commands a fine view of the 
city ; and access may be had on applying to the keeper- 

The Liverpool, London, and Havre Packets are 
fine vessels, and some of them among the most ele- 
gantly furnished ships in the world. They lie at dif- 
ferent docks in the Last Hiver ; and the Liverpool sail 
on the 1st, 8th, 16th, and 24th of every month, and 
returning, leave Liverpool on the same days. The 
Havre packets sail on the 1st, 10th, and 20th. The 
letter bags are kept at the bar of the Tontine Coffee 
House. — 6c?, for every letter. 

Excursions.^ Numerous pleasant excursions may 
be made from New-York in various directions. Man- 
hattan Island affords several agreeable rides ; and also 
Long Island and the neighbouring parts of New-Jersey. 

Prince''s Linnosan Garden at Flushing. The ex- 

* Rates of Hacknaj Coackes.— By the 1st section of the law for regii- 
latuig Hackney CaniaKes, it is ordained that the rates or prices to be 
taken by the owners or drivers of hackney carriages on the stands therein 
mentioned, viz. Trinity Church and Park, for the conveyance of passen- 
gers, shall be as follows, viz, 

f cts. 

Fox any distance not exceeding one mile, for each person 00 25 

For any distance over one mile, and within the Lamp and Watch 

District, for a single passenger 00 50 

For two passengers, each 00 37 

For each additional passenger 00 25 

For attending a funeral in town 2 00 

* For one or more passengers, not exceeding four, around the first, 

or Sandy Hill tour 1 00 

For one or more passengers, not exceeding four, around the second, 

or Love Lane tour 2 00 

For one or more passengers, not exceeding four, around the third, 

or Lake's tour .' 2 50 

For one or more passengers, not exceeding four, aiound the fourtli, 

or Apthorp's tour 4 00 

For one or more passengers, not exceeding four, to Harlaem and 

back .....4 00 

For one or more passengers, not exceeding four, to King's Bridge 

and back, with the privilege of keeping the carriage all day 5 0(» 

And whenever Hackney Carriages shall be hired or paid by lime, or 
tleiained, the rates or prices shall be as follows : that is to say, 
For any time not exceeding one hour dols. 00 75 

and in proportion for a greater or less time. 

Tlie penalty for denianding a higher fare than the preceding is Ten 
Sollars ; for refusing to be employed when disengaged, Ten Dollars ; 
syid for not ha^•ine a copy of the rat«sin ^ch carriage. Fifteen Dollars- 



SCnOOLEY S MOU?<TAIi\. l/> 

eursion to this beautiful garden and nursery is very 
pleasant. The Steamboat leaves Fulton-street Slip at 
hours particularized every day in the newspapers, and 
affords a view of the most interesting parts of the East 
River ; including the famous rapids at Hurl Gate. 
The village is small but pleasant. The garden of Mr. 
Prince will supply strangers of taste and science with 
rare seeds, plants, flowers, and trees, and has already 
done much to introduce useful and beautiful varieties 
into this countiy. It was first established about the 
middle of the last century. 

The 4 hot houses contain about 20,000 plants in pots : 
and the garden covers at least 30 acres. The specie?; 
and varieties of trees and plants amount to about 8000, 
which is considered the most numerous collection in 
America. The proprietor exerts himself to obtain all 
the native productions, as well as all interesting exotics, 
and for specimens forwarded to him he offers to make 
satisfactory returns from his own collection. He had, 
in 1827, 127 varieties of apples, 202 of pears, cherries 
76, plums 139, and peaches 84. 

The JVavy Yard, at Brooklyn. See " East River. ''^ 

Bath, Rockaway and Gravesend, on Long Island, 

and Long^ Branch,^ (Hotels by Renshaw and Sears,) 

in New-Jersey, fine situations on the seacoast, are 

among the most attractive for bathing, &c. 

SCHOOLEY'S MOUNTAIN. 

This is a very fashionable resort during the warm 
season, particularly tor visiters from New- York. The 
situation is very pleasant, in a variegated tract of 
country ; and affords a most agreeable retreat, with fine 
air and good accommodations. 

At the city of New-York many travellers will com- 

* The American Navy consists of forty vessels : of which there are 
sfeven 74's, or ships of tlie hne ; seven 44's, or frigates of the first class ; 
three of the second class ; twelve sloops of war ; seven schooners, and 
other vessels. 

t This is a fasliionable resort. 



16 Qiri OF AEW-VOliJv. 

mence their tours in different directions ; and a glance 
at the general Map of the Routes, on the preceding page, 
will assist them in laying their plans. The Union morn- 
ing line of steamboats is recommended for Philadelphia. 
The Lehigh Coal Mines may be visited by taking one 
of the steamboats to New-Brunswick, and there a stage 
coach ; or a stage coach from Jersey City. By that 
route the traveller may proceed north to the line of the 
Erie Canal, or by the direct line to Ithaca, &:c. The 
larger morning boats offer the most rapid, and on the 
whole the most agreeable means of travelling up the 
Hudson river. A visit to the Catskill Mountains, and 
an excursion to Lebanon Springs, via Hudson, are very 
pleasant variations from the common routine of the 
route to Albany. 

A good general tour is as follows — New-York, 
Catskill, Albany, the Springs, Lake George, back to 
the Springs, Schenectady, (or Johnstown,) Niagara, 
down Lake Ontario, Montreal, Quebec, Montreal, up 
Lake Champlain to Burlington, cross the country to 
Connecticut River and Boston — back to New-York by 
Connecticut River, or by Providence. 
. This maybe varied at pleasure. The Springs may 
be visited after the tour has been accomplished ; and 
this will be preferred by many, to enjoy repose after 
fatigue, and to see the country in the earlier and cooler 
part of the season. Some may choose first to travel 
eastward ; and then they will take one of the steam- 
boats which run in that direction. Information con- 
cerning most of the land routes may be obtained at the 
coach offices in Courtlandt-street, near Broadway. 

TO THE COAL MINES. 

A stage coach goes in a day from Powles' Hook to 
Easton ; another route is from New-Brunswick. (.See 
Easton.) 



THE MORRIS CA?sAL. 



THE MORRIS CANAL. 



This Canal will offer a new and direct route to the 
Anthracite Coal Mines at Mauch Chunk, Penn. 

It will leave the Hudson river opposite New-York 
city at Powles' Hook. After passing through the low 
grounds it reaches an elevated tract 50 feet above it, 
up which it rises by an inclined plane. Boats are 
about ten minutes in being drawn up by machinery. 
The old road through Newark marshes will make a 
towing path. 

The inclined plane near Bloomfield is 624 feet long, 
and surmounts an elevation of 52 feet perpendicular, 
having an inclination of one foot in every 12. When 
a boat is drawn to the top of the plane, it is received 
into an empty lock, into which the water is admitted 
from above, and, by its own operation closes the gates 
behind it, thus floating it up to the upper level. The 
wheels of the machinery are provided against too rapid 
a motion, by a contrivance by which wedges are spon- 
taneously dropped to stop them. 

Dover is a village which lies a little beyond; and at 
a short distance the canal rises to the summit level, 
which is supplied, for ten miles, from a pond. Not 
less than twenty miles of the whole route, the canal 
runs through narrow ravines, between high ridges of 
granite, which abound in va Suable minerals, heretofore 
transported by land to a distance to be wrought. 

With the exception of the Mountain Pvidge, the land 
through which the Morris Canal passes is fertile and 
populous. The whole rise and fall upon the route 
amounts to 890 feet ; and this is overcome by inclined 
planes, instead of locks, at as little expense, it is de- 
clared, as the lockage of 250 feet would cost. 

Newark is one of the most beautiful places in the 
state. The Canal winds thence to Paterson^ where h 
passes along the rocks below the falls, through ex- 



lo (JITY OF jNEW-YORK. 

pensive excavations. It crosses the Passaic above the 
Little Paterson falls, on an arched stone aqueduct, 50 
feet span. 

Paterson is a large and flourishing manufacturing- 
village, situated just below the great and picturesque 
falls of the Passaic, from which the water is supplied 
for turning the machinery of numerous large esta- 
blishments. The place has grown up from almost 
obscurity within 20 years, and latel)^ contains about 
8000 inhabitants. The amount of capital invested was 
estimated in 1828 at above a million. 

In the town there are seventeen cotton factories, 
containing 30,000 spindles ; one flax or sail duck 
factory, with 1600 spindles ; one slitting and rolling 
mill and nail factory, working annually 896,000 pounds 
of iron, costing $10,320, and making, yearly, 851,200 
pounds of nails. The cotton factories consume, 
annually, 2,000,000 pounds of cotton, and the flax 
factory 600,000 pounds of flax. — There is one machine 
shop employing 150 hands, connected with which is 
an iron and brass foundry, working annually 600,000 
pounds of iron, and 16,500 pounds of brass : the esti- 
mated yearly value of the iron and brass castings is 
$25,000. 

The scenery at the falls is celebrated for its pic- 
turesque character. A perpendicular wall of solid 
rock rises from the side of a lai^e basin formed by the 
river, into which the stream falls in foam, from the 
height of 70 feet. A man repeatedly sprung from 
that height into the water in 1828, without injury. 

When the canal leaves the Passaic, it runs a few miles 
in the valley of Pompton river, then through a rougher 
country to Mayville, where it rises 140 feet by two 
inclined planes. Thence to Boonton Falls on Kock- 
away river, and up another, 80 feet. The river has a 
fine fall, well dammed, to supply the canal and several 
mills. At Dover are iron works. At Rockaway is a 
plane rising 52 feet. 

There is a rlirprt road to Buffalo throusrh Tfhara. 



BOOKS AM> MAPS. IS 

I'he tollowing list of books and maps is given for 
those wlio may wish for more details concerning the 
northern states than we are able to furnish in the present 
summary view. 

BOOKS. 

History of the New-York Canals. 

Smith's History of New-York. 

Picture of New-York and Stranger's Guide. 

Dr. Dwight's Travels in the New-England States 
and New- York. 

Professor Siliiman's Short Tour to Montreal and 
Quebec, in 18mo. 

Tanner's Strangers' Guide to Philadelphia. 

Van Rensselaer's Geological Survey of the Canal 
Route. 

Hibernicus's Letters on the New-York Canal. 

Spafford's Gazetteer of the State of New-York. 

Spafford's Pocket Guide to the Canal Route. 

Gazetteers of New-Hampshire and V^ermont. 

Spafford's Gazetteer of Massachusetts. 

Description Topographique de la Province du Bas 
Canada, avec des remarques sur la Haute Canada, et 
sur les relations des deux provinces d'Amerique. Par 
Joseph Bouchette. 

Greenbank's Views of American Scenery. 

Pictures of Boston, Quebec, &.c. 

MAPS. 

Eddy's Map of the State of New-York. 
Vance's Map of the Western Part of the same* 
Goodrich's Map of the Hudson River. 
Daggett's Map of Connecticut. 
Bouchette's Maps of Canada. 
Tanner's Maps of different stales, &c. 



20 2nEW-yoi{k to albaav. 



ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 

The following steamboats ply between New- York 
and Albany. North America,* Ohio, New Philadel- 

ghia, Albany, Victory, Sandusky, Olive Branch, 
ristol. Constitution, Constellation, and Chief Justice 
Marshall. ■] ' - 

There are also others to intermediate places. Most 
of the Troy and Albany boats, however, stop or touch 
at those places. These boats lie about the docks 
at Courtlandt, Cedar, and Barclay-streets. 

There is some difference in the charges of the boats, 
but the accommodations travellers will find on board 
of them are generally good, except when they are too 
much crowded with passengers. Strangers will ge- 
nerally prefer the large ones, because they are furnished 
with an upper deck, called the promenade, which is 
sheltered from the sun by an awning, and affords a 
much more uninterrupted prospect, as well as better 
air. As two or three will go every day, and the tra- 
veller can choose better for himself, it is unnecessary 
to make any further suggestions, except that ladies 
particularly will prefer the day boats, unless they are 
too much crowded. 

Cautions. If luggage is sent by a porter, ask him 
for his number^ so that if he is negligent or dishonest, he 
may be reported at the police office. It is best to go 
to the steamboat ten or fifteen minutes before the time 
of departure, to avoid the crowd which always col- 
'lects at the dock. 

PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON RIVER. 

On leaving New- York, the traveller finds himself in 
the midst of a fine and varied scene. The battery 

* This boat, in 1828, made the shortest passase ever known between 
i\cw-\ork and Albany-viz. in 10 hours and 30 niinutes. 



liOCKL-:VXI> CO; s\ 



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LUiNATIU ASiLim. "^il 

lies behind him, with Governor's Island and Castle 
Williams projecting beyond ; still more distant opens 
the passage called the Narrows, with Staten Island on 
the right, leading to Sandy Hook and the Atlantic 
Ocean, which is 22 miles from the city. On the west 
side of the Bay are Bedlow's and Gibbet Islands, with 
forfitications; the point at the mouth of the Hudson is 
Powles' Hook, on which stands a small town in New- 
Jersey called Jersey/ City ; and the village of Hoboken 
is seen a mile or more up the river. The hills of 
Weehawken appear beyond : as the boat moves ra- 
pidly on, it passes the crowded line of buildings in 
Washington-street, the North Battery, and the village 
of Greenwich. 

At Weehawken, under a ledge of rocks facing the 
river, and about the distance of three miles from the 
city, is the spot where General Alexander Hamilton 
fell in a duel with Col. Burr. A monument of white 
marble was erected to his memory on the place ; but 
it has been removed within a few years. This is the 
common duelling ground for combatants from the city, 
and many lives have been lost on this fatal spot. 

The Palisadoes — a remarkable range of precipices 
of trap rock, which begins near this place, extends up 
the river on the west side 20 miles, to Tappan, and 
forms a singular, and in many places an impassable 
boundary. In some places an old red sandstone foun- 
dation is seen below ; but the great mass of the rocks 
presents the mural precipices of the trap formation, 
and rises from the height of 15 or 20 feet to 500 or 550. 

The eastern shore of the river opposite the Palisa- 
does, is for many m.iles handsomel};^ rounded with hills, 
and presents many scenes of cultivation, which con- 
trast with the rude cliffs on the left. The soil is infe- 
rior ; and the wood land encroaches too much upon 
the fields and orchards. 

The Lunatic Asylum, about 7 miles from the city, 
is a large building of hev/n stone, occupying a com- 
manding situation. 

C 



22 NEVv-\OJiK TO ALlIANi. 

HarlcBm Heights are a short distance further. 'I'hey 
form an elevated ridg^e across Manhattan island, on 
which a line of fortifications was thrown up duringthe 
Revolution and the late war quite over to the t^ast 
river. 

Fort Lee, on the west side ot the river, is situated 
on the brow of the Palisadoes, more than 300 feet 
above the river. 

Fort Washington was a fortress on the top of a high 
rounded hill, on the east side of the river, 12 miles from 
New-York. In October, 1776, when Gen. Washing- 
ton had evacuated the city, and, subsequently to the 
battle of White Plains, (for which see just beyond,) 
had drawn off his army to Fort Lee, Fort Washington 
was kept garrisoned, contrair to his advice, and was 
attacked in four divisions. The Hessians and Wal- 
deckers, under Gen. Knyphausen, went up the hill on 
the north side, Gen. Matthews on the east, with the 
English light infantry and guards, marched against the 
intrenchments, which reached almost to the East river. 
Col. Sterling made a feint of crossing that river lower 
down, while Lord Percy with a very strong corps was 
to act against the western flank. 

The Hessians suffered much from the riflemen in 
passing the swamp, but succeeded, with the other di- 
visions, in driving the Americans into this fort, where 
they all surrendered, to the number of 2600 men, in- 
cluding militia. They had lost very few ; but the 
British lost about 800. 

Fort Lee was immediately evacuated ; but the Bri- 
tish crossed so speedily at Dobbs's Ferry, that they 
took the artillery, military stores, baggage, and tents 
of the American anny. 

Battle of White Plains. In October, 1776, soon 
after the American troops evacuated New-York, 
while General Washington had his army assembled at 
Kingsbridge, and the British were in possession of the 
island up as far as Harl«m, General Howe came up 
the East river, with an intention of surrounding the 



TARRVTOWN. 23 

Americans. He left his German corps at New-Ko- 
chelle, and marched for the high grounds at VVhite 
Plains, several miles east of the Hudson, to seize the 
interior road between the city and Connecticut. 

Washington penetrated his design, and intrenched 
himself on the west side of the small river Bronx, with 
his right on Valentine's hill, and his left on White 
Plains. He had garrisons near Harlsem, at Kin^s- 
bridge, and Fort Washington. Skirmishes were kept 
up till the British approached very near ; when 
Washington asseiribled all his troops in a strong camp 
on the heights near the plains, with the Bronx m front 
and on the right flank, and a mountainous region in the 
rear. The right was more accessible ; and General 
M'Dougal was sent to intrench himself on a mountain 
about a mile in front. 

On the morning of October 28th, the British ad- 
vanced in two columns : the right by General Clinton, 
and the left by General Heister. The former took 

gost on the Mamaroneck road and the latter on the 
Ironx, — the armies being a mile distant. Col. Ralle 
with a Hessian regiment fell upon General M'Dougal 
in flank, while Leslie attacked him in front with a bri- 
gade. The militia soon fled, but the regular troops 
resisted until overpowered. The British determined 
to wait ; and on the following morning, finding the 
American position much strengthened, and a height in 
the rear occupied by the left wing, sent for more 
troops and erected batteries. Washington, therefore, 
retired to North Castle ; and soon after, securing the 
bridge over the Croton, and Peekskill, crossed the 
Hudson. 

Fort Independence^ on the east side. Opposite, the 
Palisadoes are of still greater height. 
Dobbs^s Ferry ^ 10 miles. 

Tarrytown, 3^ miles. This is the place where 
Major Andre was stopped, returning from his visit to 
Gen. Arnold, and on his way to the British lines. The 
plac^ was then neutral ficround, as the Americans and 



24 NEW-YORK TO ALHA^i. 

English lay encamped above and below. The tree 
was recently standing under which his captors searched 
him, and the bank near by had concealed them from 
his view as he approached them. It was a large 
tulip tree, 26 feet round and 111 feet high. It was 
struck by lightning in 1801. 

Tappan, on the west side. Andre was executed 
about a mile west of the river in this town. 

The State Prison, at Singsing, is in a quadrangle of 
nearly 44 feet by 480. It has a double stack of cells 
built back to back, 4 tiers high and 200 on each tier : 
in all 800. 9 feet distant is the outer wall, which 
supports a gallery running all round ; size of the 
cells, 3 feet 6 inches by 7 feet, and 2 feet door way. 
The whole work was done by convicts, and a great 
part is of hewn stone. The system is the best — that 
of the Auburn prison. 

The Singsing prison is in plain view from the steam- 
boats, being only a few feet from the shore. The ex- 
cellence of this systetri of prison discipline, which is 
the invention of "Mr. Lynds, the superintendent, (for- 
merly superintendent at Auburn,) consists in its cutting 
oft' all intercourse among the prisoners. They are se- 
parately lodged ; and though they work together, they 
cannot converse, even by signs, and therefore can con- 
cert nothing, and cannot contaminate each other. 

Sleepy Hollow, rendered interesting by Mr. Irving, 
is a little above Singsing. 

The Entrance of the Highlands is a short distance 
beyond this place, and 40 miles iron) New-York. 
This is a region no less remarkable for the important 
military events of which it has been the theatre, than 
for the grandeur and nobleness of its natural scenery. 

Stony Point. The little rough promontory on the 
left, nearly a mile below the entrance of the High- 
lands, was a fortified position during the American 
war. The British took it from Gen. Wayne in 1778, 
hut lost it again the same year. There is a lighthou'^e 
on the top. 





Stonevl'oinl yl:: 



KO C K I. A X n 



STONY POINT. ZO 

rerplanckh Point, on the opposite side, was also the 
site 01 a fort ; but is now ornamented with a hand- 
some private mansion, and the rocks near the landing 
are tastefully variegated with a lawn, an arbour, and 
many fine trees. 

FORT MONTGOMERY AND FORT CLINTON. 
5 miles. 

These forts were taken by Sir Henry Clinton, on the 
6th of October, 1777. His object was to co-operate 
with Gen. Burgoyne, at that time closely watched by 
Gen. Gates near Saratoga, and to afford him an oppor- 
tunity to force his way to Hudson river, by effecting a 
diversion in his favour. For this purpose Sir H. 
Clinton had left New-York with 3 or 4,000 troops, 
embarked in the fleet and landed at Verplanck's 
Point. The next morning a detachment was sent to 
Stony Point, and marched round in the rear of these 
forts, then under the command of Gen. Putnam, and 
garrisoned by 1000 continental troops, part of whom 
were unfit for duty, and a small number of militia. 

Gen. Putnam, apprized of the landing made at Ver- 
planck's Point, and supposing the object of the expe- 
dition to be Fort Independence, had crossed the river 
and made preparations to oppose them. He did not 
discover their real intentions until he heard the firing 
at forts Montgomery and Clinton, which are near each 
other, and were attacked at the same moment. The 
fighting began betweer» four and five o'clock in the 
afternoon, and lasted till dark, when the Americans 
having lost about 250 men, the forts were surrendered ; 
but all the troops who were able, about 450, effected 
their escape, with the Governor and his brother Gen. 
James Clinton. The British, proceeding to West 
Point, removed the chain which had been stretched 
across the river to prevent the passage of their ships ; 
and a part of the fleet, under Sir James Wallace, went 
up to Kingston, with Gen. Vaughan and bis troops. 



it> ^EW-YOni TO ALBAKi. 

Although they found the village defenceless, the oth- 
cers ordered it to be burned on the 13th of October. 
The British proceeded no further than that place ; for 
the news of Burgoyne's surrender being received a few 
days afterward, the fleet returned to New-York. 

Anthony's J^fose. This mountain (which has a pro- 
file resembling the human (ace) rises 1228 feet from 
the river, directly opposite the mouth of Montgomery 
Creek, looking down upon forts Montgomery and 
Clinton Behind the latter is Bloody Pond, where the 
bodies of those were thrown who were killed in the 
defence. 

The Catskill Mountains are in sight from the top, 
part of Connecticut, the Green Mountains, with a view 
down the Hudson, extending to New-Jersey, and Har- 
laem Heights, Long Island Sound, &:c. Even the Lu- 
natic Asylum in New-York can be discovered. 

As the steamboat proceeds, several points are ob- 
served projecting into the river some distance above ; 
and West Point makes its appearance on the left hand, 
with the ruins of Fort Putnam^ elevated on a com- 
manding eminence, a little beyond, 598 feet above the 
water's level. The view it commands over this wild 
and mountainous neighbourhood, as well as its con- 
nexion with our history, will render it worthy of a 
visit. There are still three or four subterraneous rooms 
to be seen, and the place is so often visited, that the 
path is plain, and leads to most of the principal objects 
within it. This fortress commanded at once the river 
above and below West Point, and the passage into a 
defile which opens through the mountains westward. 
That defile was farther defended by numerous little 
batteries and redoubts on the peaks around it. The 
summits near Fort Putnam (then Independence) 
were also occupied, but were not fit for extensive 
works, although more elevated. During the war a 
fort stood on the opposite side of the river, called Fort 
Constitution. 

Koscmsko's Monximent is erected at West Point ; and 



3riLITARl ACADEHr. ^< 

ihe spot is still shown where he cultivated his little 
garden. 

WEST POINT. 

This was a military position of great consequence 
in the war. A battery was erected on the extremity 
of the point just over the river, to command the chan- 
nel, while a strong^ iron chain was stretched across 
from the shore below, to the opposite side. On the 
east side of ihe river is Cold Spring, behind it is the 
West Point Foundry, owned by Major Kimberly of 
New-York. It is the best in the United States, and 
worthy of attention. 

The Military Academy of the United States 

is located at West Point ; and a more delightful situa- 
tion for such an institution could hardly have been se- 
lected. It is designed for the instruction of young 
men destined for the army ; and secondarily for main- 
taining the military science of the country. The 
Academy was established, in 1802, by Gen. Williams, 
and extends only to the instruction of Cadets. The num- 
ber of pupils is confined to "250 ; and in choosing from 
the applicants, the sons of revolutionary officers are al- 
lowed the first claim, and those children of officers of 
the last war whose fathers are dead, the next. There 
are about 30 professors, instructers and assistants. 
Some of the Cadets afford assistance in instructing, for 
%vhich they receive additional pay. The law prohibits 
admission under fourteen years of age. 

The level on which the buildings of the institution 
are erected, is 188 feet above the river, though it has 
the appearance of having once formed a part of its 
bed. The annual expense of the institution to the 
United States is ^115,000. The sum paid for the edu- 
cation of a Cadet is about gJ30 per annum. The 
library consists of a large and valuable collection of 



2U ^E^v-¥Ol^K to albanv. 

books, on the various branches of military science, 
which have been obtained with great assiduity and no 
small expense from Europe. 

The buildings belonging to the institution are five ; 
all large, and built of stone. There are, besides, six 
brick buildings for the officers and professors ; near the 
water, some old military storehouses, which contain 
arms, &,c. used in the revolution. The barracks were 
lately burnt. 

There is a large and conspicuous hotel lately erected 
for the accommodation of visiters. 

The course of study is completed in four years, each 
being devoted to a class ; and includes the French lan- 
guage, drawing, natural and experimental philosophy, 
chemistry and mineralogy, geography, history, ethics, 
and national law, mathematics in the highest branches, 
and lastly, artillery and engineering. 

Study concludes each day at 4 P. M. and is suc- 
ceeded by the parade, which lasts till sunset. 

One of the particular spots worthy of attention is 
Col. Beverly Robinson's mansion on the east side of 
the river, which was made the head-quarters of the 
several officers who were at different periods invested 
with the command of this important part of the country. 

In September, 1780, while the British held posses- 
sion of Hudson river up to the borders of the High- 
lands, and General Arnold was in command here, a 
correspondence w^as carried on by him with the British 
officers, on the subject of surrendering his post into 
their hands. To bring their designs to a conclusion, it 
was determined that a meeting sBould be held. 

Andre was sent under cover of the night trom the sloop 
of war Vulture, which was then lying in Haverstraw 
Bay, to a place which had been appointed for the con- 
ference. A man by the name of Smith had been sent 
on board by Arnold, under the pretence of negotiating 
about an honourable treaty with Great Britain, and he 
accompanied Andre to the foot of a mountain called 
the Long Clove, on the west «ide of the river. Here 



EXECUTION OF AKDKE. I'l^ 

Ibey found Gen. Arnold in a dark grove of evergreen 
trees, according to appointment. 

Daylicrht put it out of the power of Major Andre to 
pass in safety the posts at Verplanck's and Stony Points. 
He was therefore obliged to retire to Smith's house, 
and change his dress for a disguise. 

General Arnold had furnished him with a pass under 
the name of John Anderson; and on the following- 
evening he set out by land, accompanied by Smith as 
a guide. They rode that night to McKoy's, after 

foing eight or nine miles : and the next he spent at 
'ine's Bridge, over Croton River. Here he parted 
vpith Smith, and proceeded alone six miles, when as 
he had passed the American lines, and was approach- 
ing those of the British, he was discovered by three 
men, who were concealed from him behind a bank ; 
and one of them, suddenly stepping from under a tree 
by the road side, seized his horse by the bridle. 
They found in his boots a description of the works at 
West Point, wiih returns of all the forces of the garri- 
son, in the handwriting of Ar?iold. 

This happened on the 23d of September. A mes- 
senger was immediately sent to Gen. Washington ; and 
at Andri:''s request, Lieut. Col. Jamieson sent to Arnold 
to inform him that iVnderson was taken. The latter 
messenger arrived first ; and Arnold as soon as he learned 
the tru' I, rushed down a very steep bank, sprang into 
his boat, and ordered the rowers to take him on board 
the Vulture. 

On the 29th of September a board of officers was 
appointed for the trial of Major Andre, and sentenced 
him to suffer death as a spy. Objections were made 
to this sentence, on the ground that Andre had been 
introduced into the American camp under the passport 
of one of our otBcers ; but the delivery of Arnold 
being made the condition of his release, and that being- 
refused by the British, he was kept in prison until the 
2d day of October, when he Avas hung at the town of 
Tappan, where his bodv was afterward interred. 



so AEW-YOKK TO ALBANY. 

A few years since the British goternment sent to 
this country to obtain his remains, which were removed 
to England, and placed in the family vault of the 
then Prince Regent. A cypress tree which grew over 
his grave was likewise removed to the garden of the 
present king. The roots of this tree were found to 
have twined themselves about the skull. In 1827, the 
corporation of New-York erected a monument over 
the grave of Paulding, one of his captors. 

At leaving West Point, the traveller will observe 
several remarkably high mountains on both sides of 
the river, for which he ia referred to the map. The 
distant summit of Catskill mountains is distinguishable. 
Putnam's Rock was rolled from the top of Butter 
Hill, June, 1778, by a party of soldiers directed by 
Gen. Putnam. On the east side is Anthony's Nose, 

JVewburgh. — This is a town of considerable size, 
six miles beyond the Higlilands, with some handsome 
buildings. Here begins the Stage Road leading from 
the river to Ithaca, at the head of Cayuga Lake, and 
communicating, by a steamboat, with the great western 
turnpike at Cayuga Bridge. 

New burgh is advantageously situated for the eye 
of one approaching it, as it stands on the declivity of a 
hill which slopes handsomely to the shore. Half a 
mile south of the village is seen the old stone house in 
which Gen. Washington had his head-quarters when^ 
the celebrated "Newburgh Letters" came out. 

A coach runs daily to Goshen, near which are the 
Chemung Springs. 

Fishkill Mountain. — The summits called North and 
South Beacons, which rise opposite Newburgh, at a 
distance of four miles, command a fine view over the 
surrounding countiy and the river, which appears, 
interrupted by the Highlands, like a number of lakes. 
Fort Putnam is in sis'ht, and it is said that land may 
be seen in seven different states. Many villages, as 
well as the river, are included in the view. 

Mnffenwnn Factory. Fishkill. — It stands near the river 



. Kill 



A L, B A X Y 



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DELAWARE A2iD HUDSON CANAL. ol 

and directly opposite Newbur^h. It was commenced 
in 1814, belongs to Messrs. Schenk, and gives em- 
ployment to about 300 persons, with 50 power looms, 
&LC. 1,000 or 1,500 yards of cotton are manufactured 
on an average from the wool every day, principally 
stripes and ginghams. There is an extensive machine 
shop connected with it. 

Poughkeepsie is worthy of a particular description^ 
as it is a place of con^^iderable importance, and has a 
singular situation. There are three or four rough and 
rocky projections on the shore, which break up the 
streets of the village, and are partly occupied with 
houses and gardens. The effect is peculiar. 

For several miles beyond, the shores are of a regular 
elevation, but are cut through by several streams, 
which afford a little variety, as wharves are usually 
constructed at their mouths, where a sloop or two 
receive their cargoes of timber or produce for New- 
York. 

Kingston. — The Delaware and liudson Canal, which 
was commenced in July 1825, and completed, with the 
works in connexion with it, near the close of 1829, 
extends from a point on the Rondout, about four miles 
from the junction of the Waalkill with the Hudson, to 
the coal mines on the Lackavvana creek, in Pennsyl- 
vania. The whole route is now complete. The chief 
part of it, 65 miles, passes through a valley, two or 
three miles wide, in a south-westerly direction, to the 
Delaware. 

The country at the opening of the canal is remark- 
ably irregular and wild, dn rising from the level 
of the river by locks into the basin, a wild assemblage 
of rocks, steep hills, and forest trees is suddenly pre- 
sented to the view, with a few buildings ; and after 
passing through a deep cut, where the work is very 
neat, and under a high bridge, the boat enters the 
river, whose smooth and grassy shore offers a very 
convenient towing path. 
, The canal is 36 feet in breadth at the surface* anfl 



o"ii ]\E\V-\OKK To ALEAIVi. 

four feet deep. The locks are nine feet wide, 72 teet 
in length between the gates, from eight to eleven feet 
lift, and built of stone. 

The country has one peculiar feature on the route 
from the Hudson to the Delaware : it seems as if it 
Kight have afforded a channel to the Delaware, before 
its waters forced for themselves a new passage through 
the Blue Ridge. The elevation of this land is 80 feet 
above the present level of that river. 

High Falls.— At the High Falls on the Rondout 
River, the canal passes over a hewn stone aqueduct 
of two arches, just above which the cascade is seen, 
50 feet high. The falls and the aqueduct both present 
a fine and striking appearance ; the effect of which is 
still further increased by the passage of the FiveLocks^ 
by which the ascent is surntounted. 

TAe Summit Level is about midway between the 
Hudson and Delaware, at a place formerly called 
Rome, and now Wurtzhorough. 

The Neversink River is crossed on an aqueduct, and 
the canal then pursues the course of that river. 

Carpenter's Point, on the Delaware, is the place 
where the canal meets that river, on the line of New- 
Jersey; and it then proceeds north-westerly, along its 
course. 

The excavations of rocks along the bank of the 
Delaware, required for the passage of the canal, are 
in many places on a vast scale; and the variety of 
natural scenery and artificial constructions presented 
to the traveller is highly agreeable and picturesque. 
A wall of stone rising from the river's bank, varying 
in height from 10 to 20 and 30 teet, supports the canal 
and tow path, in many places where the rocks have 
been blasted out with great expense to afford it a 
passage. 

Butler'' s Falls. — At this place the mountains rise to 
the height of several hundred feet, and a rock, which 
appeared to present a natural insurmountable obstacle, 
has been cut away with immense labour just over the 



CAi;SKlLI, M0U2sTAlJvs, So 

i.uii]ultuous stream, SO that boats pass along the smooth 
surface of the canal without difficulty or exposure, 
within a short distance of an impetuous current. 

The Dam arid Aqueduct over the Delaware. — The 
canal crosses the Delaware opposite the mouth of the 
Lackawaxen River, on a dam four feet in height ; 
after which it enters the valley of that stream. 

The Lackawaxen River. — Along the bank of this 
river the canal passes for a distance of about 20 miles, 
supported for a great part of the way on a wall of 
stone. The vvildness of the countiy on either side 
will ofl'er continually striking objects to the traveller. 

Honesdale. — This village stands at the Forks of the 
Dyberry, at the spot where the railway meets the 
canal at its termination. Only a few buildings have 
as yet been erected at this place. 

The Railway, by which the coal is brought from the 
mines, is provided with steam engines to move the 
carls. (We return to Hudson river.) 

Saugeriies. — Here is a large manufacturing place 
established by Henry Barclay, Esq. of New-York. 
By a lar^e stone dam on Esopus creek he obtains a 
supply of water at a fall of nearly 50 feet, which 
may be twice used on great wheels. The canal or 
sluice conducts it about two hundred yards through 
rocks 65 feet high. Here is a mill for paper on the 
latest English mode, making it in a continued sheet. 
The iron rolling and puddling mill is 169 feet long, 
rolls 200 tons a week, and can do double that work. 
There is an hotel in an elevated situation ; and the 
traveller will find great attractions there in the neau 
and distant scenery. 

THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 

As the traveller proceeds he observes the disfaut 

idge of the Catskill mountains more distinctl^r, which 

imit the view north and westerly for many miles, and 

brm a grand feature in the scene, Thev nowhere 

D 



o4 AiiW-YOKK TO ALBAiN^ . 

approach nearer to the river than 8 miles, and in some 
places retire 15 and even 20. 

An excursion to the summit of these mountains is 
performed by great numbers of travellers ; and in- 
deed has become so favourite an enterprise, that it 
way very properly be ranged among the principal 
objects in the great tour which we are just commenc- 
ing. The visit may be accomplished in one day, 
though two or three may be agreeably spent in ex- 
amining, at leisure, the grand and beautiful scenery of 
that romaniic neighbourhood. There is a large and 
commodious house of entertainment erected at the 
Fine Orchard, one of the peaks of the mountain, 
about 3000 feet above the river. It is visible from the 
steamboat ; and the ascent to it \6 performed without 
fatigue, in private carriages or a stage coach, which 
goes and returns regularly twice a day. (There is a 
spring of carburetted hydrogen in Ca'.skill creek.) 

The place to land tor this excursion is Gatskill, 
where begins a turnpike road to Ithaca.'^ Taking the 
stage coach here, tor $1 you proceed towards the 
Pine Orchard, passing a good inn at the distance of 7 
miles, (640 feet above the river) and then beginning 
the ascent, which is surmounted by a winding road 
that affords mijch wild scenery and man}'' a gTimpse 
at the surrounding country.! Five miles of such tra- 
velling brings the visiter to 

* The contemplated railroad from Itliaca to Catskill, N. Y. ?< pro- 
posed to be conmienced and continued tlirougli a corner of ScJiohario 
county, to the head waters of the Delaware ; thence to the Susqueliau- 
nah ; thence either direct to Ithaca or down the Susipiehannah iieariy 
to the Pennsylvania line; and thence to intersect tlie Ithaca and 0\ve<i'» 
railway, at th^ latter place. The distance is ](iO miles, and the liighest 
estimated expense $1,500,000. 

t TJie forests of this nujuntainous region furnish immense quantities 
of the bark used in tanning leather; and not less than 23 tanneries are 
in operation in this county, winch supply about four-tifthsof the leatlier 
annually inspected in the City of New- York. (Edwards' large tannery 
is in the town of Hunter.) \V^ater power is advantageously introduced', 
to aid in some parts of the process; and the custom has been adopted of 
soaking the bark in heated water. Mere than 155,000 hides were tannert' 
k» Greene County in 1826, valued at more than $400,000. 



CATSKILL 3IOUJSTA1NS. oo 

The Pine Orchard. This is a small plain, 2214 feet 
above the river, scattered with forest trees, and fur- 
nished with an elegant house of great size, built for 
the accomnnodation of visiters, and excellently kept 
by Mr. Webb. The Hudson is seen winding from 
afar through its verdant valley, its margin adorned 
with villages, and its surface enlivened with vessels of 
various descriptions. Immediately below is seen a 
region of uncultivated mountains, which is strikingly 
contrasted with the charming aspect of fertility that 
reigns beyond, and presents all the variety of hill and 
vale, town, hamlet, and cottage. 

The Pine Orchard is the resort of so much company 
during the pleasant seasons of the year, that the at- 
tractions of its scenery are redoubled by the presence 
of agreeable and refined society. Individuals of taste 
and leisure, and still more parties of travellers, will 
thus often enjoy a gratification which is rarely to be 
found in a place naturally so wild and difficult of 
access. 

The Round Top is a summit of greater elevation 
towards the south, from which the view is more ex- 
tensive. It is 3,718 feet above the ocean. 

On the west side of the river is seen part of the 
counties of Albany, Greene, Ulster, and Orange ; and 
on the east, part of Putnam county, and all of 
Dutchess, Columbia, and Rensselaer. The distant 
high land in the east belongs partly to Tau^hkannuc 
and Saddle Mountains, in Massachusetts, and perhaps 
partly to the Green Mountains in Vermont. Lower 
down is discovered a range of hills in the western 
counties of Connecticut. The eye embraces a tract 
of country about 100 miles in length, and 30 in breadth ; 
and a large part of it is supposed, by geologists, to 
have formed the bed of a great lake in some long past 
age, when the Hudson was thrown back by the bar- 
rier presented at the Highlands, before the present 
chasm had been cut for its passage. 

Nearly opposite is «een the old Livinarston Manor, 



36 «EW-yoRK TO ALBANi'. 

which is one of the few great aristocratical estates ex- 
isting in this part of the country. It originally con- 
tained Clermont (14,000 acres), the Manor (146,000), 
and East Camp or Palatine (6000). This last was 
settled by exiles from the Palatinate in the reign ot 
Oueen Anne. 

The Cascades. There is a singular and highly ro- 
mantic scene which has been intentionally reserved for 
the last. A path leads through the woods to the cas- 
cades, passing near two small lakes, from which the 
supply of water is derived. Carriages may generally 
be procured to take visiters to the spot. 

The stream flows through the woods to where the 
level terminates, very abruptly, at a high and shelving 
precipice, descending into a tremendous gorge between 
ridges of gloomy mountains. The first fall is 175 feet, 
and the second 80 : both perpendicular, without a 
single protruding rock to break the snow-white sheet. 

A building is erected, where refreshments may be 
obtained ; and on the right is a steep path by which 
even ladies may descend in safety to the foot of the 
falls. 

There is a cavern under the first cataract, where the 
slielving rock shelters the stranger from the spray, and 
throws a dark shade around him, which sets off, in the 
most beautiful manner, the wild scenery below. The 
cavern is formed by the wearing away of the sand- 
stone rocks, while the stratum of graywacke remains 
unimpaired. 

At a little distance the stream takes it^ second leap 
into a dark abyss ; and from a rock at that place, it is 
seen rushing tumultuously along over a steep and 
rocky channel, winding between the bases of the 
mountains until it gradually sweeps away tov/ards the 
south, and disappears among the rude scenery thai 
surrounds it. 

After gratifying his curiosity and taste with scenes 
like these, the traveller will return to Catskill to take 
the ppxt steamboat : and bv making: tho neres^arv 



CITY OF HUDSOX. 37 

anan^ements, he can proceed up the river with very 
little delay. 

THE CITY OF HUDSON, 5^ miles. 

This is one of 'he largest and most important towns 
on the river, and occupies a commanding eminence on 
the eastern hank, with several ranges of large stores 
builf near the water's levei. On the t)rovv of the ascent 
from the water is a favourite promenade, fiom which a 
ch?irmiiig view is enjoyed of the river and the oppo- 
site Catskill mountains. The western shore is varie- 
gated and beautiful, and contains the village of Athens. 

It may be recommended to the travel er who wishes 
to visit New-Lebanon Springs, to land here and take 
the stage coaches. In 1827 this route began to grow 
ver}^ common ; and it was estimated that 1200 travel- 
lers passed through Hudson every week of the travel- 
ling season. 

Daily lines of stage coaches are now established 
between Hudson and New-Lebanon ; and travellers 
leavino: New-York in an evening boat, sometimes 
reach the latter place the next day before dinner. From 
Hudson to New-Lebanon is 28 miles. 

The L^nion road to New-Lebanon is a good one, 
and passes through a varied, well cultivated, and 
agreeable tract of country. Siage coaches go from 
Bryan &. Smith's inn ; and parties can at any time be 
furnished with comfortable carriages. Stage coaches 
<ro daily to Lenox, Stockbridge, Pittsfield, &c. At 
Egremont, they exchange passengers with the coaches 
for Shetfield, Hartford, and New-H^ven. 

At Hudson carriages may be engaged for Catskill 
mountains. 

The Columbia Spring i« a place of some resort, and 
the water is considered effectual in cases of scrofula. 

There are extensive manufactories of cotton, ca- 
lico. &c. &c. in this vicinity. 
D 2 



-3 a 2iE \\ ■ YOIiK TO ALBAjS i . 

Claverack is a pleasant village a few miiea iroiii 
Hudson. 

The Great Falls is a romantic cascade, about 9 miles 
from Hudson, near the old post route. A stream is 
precipitated down a precipice of dark rocks, into a 
deep chasm, shaded with forest trees, and presenting 
a most picture, que and striking scene. The place is 
lately visited eveiy season by numbers of travellers ; 
and it is to be regretted that there is no house of enter- 
tainment in the vicinity. 

There is a large manufactory about 250 yards from 
the cascade, owned by Mr. Philips. A path leads 
thence, ahjng the high and steep bank of the stream, 
to the foot. The ascent to the top of the falls is also 
accessible, and affords another fine view. The whole 
descent of the water is said to be about 150 feet, and 
it is interrupted only by a nan'ow rock projecting 20 
feet from the precipice about half way down. The 
basin which receives the stream is large, deep, and 
gloomy : being so surrounded hj high hills that the sun 
falls into it only during a short time about noon. The 
finest view is perhaps frr.m the side of the basin oppo- 
site the falls. Above the cascade the bed of the 
stream is strewn with rude blocks of slate, 20 or 30 
feet across, which are channelled by the water, and 
in some places piled together so as to form little 
caverns. 

[For New-Lebanon Springs, see page 42.] 

Kinderhook. Surveys have been made at the ex- 
jiense of the Legislature of Massachusetts of a route 
for a railway from Boston to Springfield, and by Cas- 
tleton, near this place, to the Hudson. The route 
crosses the Kinderhook, and passes an extensive plain. 
It comes through Stockbridge, Mass. The survey 
has been extended along the Hudson to Greenbush, to 
communicate with the canals. The state of New- 
York has co-operated ; but a bill authorizing the work 
was rejected in the Massachusetts legislature, in 1830. 
by a large majority. 



ClTi OF ali?a:s¥. 39 

Various plans have been proposed, for tiie improve- 
ment of the navigation of this river, and some have 
been attempted. Nearly $150,000 have been ex- 
pended since the j^ear 1797, about $30,000 of which 
was by the state. 

The Overslaugh, 4 miles from Albany, is a place 
where the channel is narrow and crooked ; and much 
labour has been resorted to in deepening it. 



ALBANY, 145 miles from New-York. 

Bins. Drake's ; Rockwell's, in North Market- 
street ; Skinners : Cruttenden's, on Capitol Hill ; 
Bamman's, South Market-street ; and Fobes's, near 
the steamboat wharf. The best houses in Albany are 
large and well kept, and the stranger will find excel- 
lent accommodations, provided the city is not too 
much filled by the session of the Legislature, or some 
other extraordinary occurrence. The charges, how- 
ever, are very high in this city, and form a mighty 
contrast with the moderate demands for food, lodging, 
ciLc. in the inns along the course of the canal, and in 
the canal boats themselves. 

Routes from Albany. Stage coaches run daily 
towards all the four cardinal points ; and six or eight 
frequently set off in the same direction. Indeed, the 
number is often much greater than this when the full 
crowd of travellers is pressing towards the Springs. 
Stage coaches go daily for Montreal, on both sides of 
Lake Champlain — fare $14. By steady travelling, 
you may go to Buffalo in three days. 296 miles. Two 
or three steamboats go daily to New-York ; small 
packet boats go on the canal to the junction, 8-^ miles ; 
and a large and convenient one used to go every day 
to Schenectady, 28| miles, but it is uncertain whether 
it will be continued. The circuit and delays occa- 
sioned by the locks, make the passage consume a 
^yhoh day. The freight boats of the rransportalion 



40 CI'J'V OF ALEA]Nr. 

Companies are veiy numerous, and have been htted 
up very comfortably for passengers, and convey them 
at a less price than th;* regular packets. (Steamboats 
go frequently to Tn.y — 12,^ cents.) 

For th«- Route to JVingara„ see beyond. For other 
routes, &c. see index ; also " Remarks'" at Ballston 
Springs. 

The Capitol, or State House, occupies a comm.-^nd- 
ing po;ii'ion, and contains th^^ Assf-mbly and Senate 
Chambers, the Supreme Court, the County Court, &c. 
&c. It is 115 feet in length, 90 in breadth, and 50 
high. In the Senate Chamber is a portrait of Colum- 
bus, copied from an original in 1592. On the oppo- 
site side of the river is Greenbush, famous for more 
than a century as a cantonment ; and the now deserted 
lines of barracks are clearly seen from the State 
House. This is the first point u^orthy of notice, con- 
nected with the colonial wars against Canada. At 
Greenbush, the troops supplied in quotas by the east- 
ern colonies, used to meet those of New-York ; and 
hence they proceeded, under commanders appointed 
by the British government, against their enemies in 
the north. 

The Academy, just north of the Capitol, is a large 
institution for the higher branches of education. 

The City Hall will be erected in Eagle-street, near 
Maiden-Lane, and will be a fine building. 

Albany received a great impulse during the late 
war with England, on account of its local position : 
but peace brought with it a fatal stagnation of busi- 
ness, the effects of which were apparent in some parts 
of the city, but the more natural and wholesome 
prosperity which already begins to flow in through the 
canal, has done much to obliterate them, and greatly 
to increase the lower part of the city, particularly near 
the river. Population in 1825, 15,954. 

Mineral Springs. A spring, obtained by boring in 
the lower part of the city, enjoyed some celebrity for 
a time, which it has in some measure lost. In 182?^ 



CITY OF alba:sv, 41 

another spring was opened in Mr. McCullock's garden 
by boring 617 feet. 

The boring of the first spring showed slate rock to 
the depth of 500 feet. Half a pint of this water con- 
tains 14 cubic inches of carbonic acid, and 40.5 grains 
of saline matter, as follows : 

Muriate of soda, 31.5 

Carbonate of soda, 2.5 

Carbonate of lime, 2.0 

Carbonate of magnesia, 3.0 

Carbonate of iron, 1.5 

40.5 
Upon comparing the above results with the analysis 
of various springs at Saratoga, it appears, that the 
water under examination does not essentially differ 
from them. The quantity of salts in the latter is 
nearly as great as that in the Congress waters, which 
are preferred by many persons to all the springs at 
Saratoga or Bailston. According to Dr. Steel, the 
amount of saline matter in a gallon of that water is 
676 grains, and of carbonic acid 343 cubic inches ; 
and if the above analysis be correct, the present water 
contains, in the same quantity, 648 grains of these 
salts, and upwards of 235 inches of carbonic acid. 

The Farmers^ and Mechanics^ Bank, and \\ntMhany 
Bank, both at the foot of State-street, are handsome 
buildings of white marble ; and the latter is lighted 
by a glass dome. State-street deserves to be men- 
tioned, on account of its remarkable breadth and fine 
appearance. There are sixteen churches in Albany, 
?ix of which are built of stone, seven of brick, and 
the rest of wood. The Museum is in South Market- 
street. 

A Rail road is to be constructed to Schenectady, and 
probably may be in progress in 1830. For 14 miles 
there is a dead level ; and an agent has been sent to 
England to acquire information. 



l- NKU-LEJLJA]\ON SPKIISGs. 

There is a fine waterfall about 8 miles from Alban^y , 
in a south-west direction, which has recently attracted 
many visiters, on a branch of Nordman's creek ; and 
although it presents no perpendicular descent of any 
considerable height, the water dashes over a great 
number of little precipices in quick succession, which 
break it up into a sheet of foam ; and the spot itself is 
of quite a romantic character. 

LEBANON SPRINGS, 25 miles east from Albany. 

New Lebanon Springs is one of the most delightful 
resorts for strangers, in point of situation, being in this 
respect incomparably superior to either of the great 
watering places, Saratoga and Ballston. Among all 
the places which might have been selected for an 
agreeable residence in the warm seasons, and calcu- 
lated to please a taste for the softer beauties of nature, 
none perhaps could have been found more eligible 
than that we are about to describe. 

The village of New-Lebanon is situated in a little 
valley, surrounded by fine hills, or rather spurs from 
two ranges of high ground, descending with a rich, 
and graceful slope on every side to its borders. The 
valley is almost a perfect level, which contrasts de- 
lightfully with the bold sides of the uplands, some 
of which are divested of their forests, and ornamented 
with cultivated fields and farms, presenting a rich va- 
riety to the eye wherever it turns. 

On the side of a hill about two miles east from the 
village, and about half way to the summit of the ridge, 
issues out a Spring of clear warm water, which, al- 
though possessed of no strong mineral qualities, has 
given the place its celebrity ; and there stands a fine 
and spacious hotel, to which the visiter will direct his 
course. 

In coming from the west, the Shaker Village opens 
just beyond the last turnpike gate ; and on approach- 
uTg the hotel, it is better to take the road which turn!^ 



NEW-LEliAiNON Sl'llilSCa. 4o 

uti to the right, as the direct road up the hill is very 

steep and laborious. 

: The terms of boarding are as follows : in July, $8 

per week, and at other seasons $7. Near the Spring 

is a Bath House, containing warm, cold, and shower 

baths. 

A little arbour wn'll be observed on the acclivity of 
the hill above the house, the path to which lies through 
the garden ; and there an uninterrupted view will be 
enjoyed over the surrounding landscape. A still more 
extensive one may be obtained from the summit of the 
hill, by following the road for a considerable distance 
up, and then turning otF into the fields. But the for- 
mer point of view will be most frequently taken by 
visiters, on account of the facility of access. On the 
south-east is the road to Northampton ; south-west the 
most extensive scene, and the road to the Shaker Vil- 
lage ; west, village of New Lebanon, and road to Al- 
bany and Twy ; north-west, the side of a fine sloping- 
hill, well cultivated, rind near at hand. 
' Distances. To Albany, 26 miles ; TrG}^ 27. (This 
is the shortest way to Ballston and Saratoga Springs, 
Lake George, &c.) To Hartford, 69 ; Hudson, 28. 

The waters of the Spring are abundant, and much 
esteemed for bathing, always keeping the temperature 
of 72 deg. Fahrenheit, although they cannot be sup- 
posed to possess an}' mineral virtues, as may be infer- 
red from an examination of (he following analysis 
given by Dr. Meade, and qudtcd by Proi'essor Silliman, 
Two quarts of the Lebanon water contain 
Muriate of lime, 1 grain. I r^r a t . jy • i ^ 
Muriate of soda. If | ^^ Aenfo.^m fluids. 

Sulphate of lime, 1| 1 Nitrogen gas, 13 cubic in. 

Carbonate of do. J | Atmospher. air, 8 do. 

5 grains. 21 

The Lebanon Avater is therefore purer than mos): 
natural waters, and purer than those in the vicinity^ 



44 



:\EW-LEBAAU.\ JsPliiAtii 



which flow irom the very same hill. It resembles veiy 
much the Buxton water in England, though it is not 
quite so warm ; and the Bristol water is another ex- 
ample of tepid water almost entirely without mineral 
qualities. Professor Silliman compares the scenery 
about Lebanon Springs to that of Bath in England. It 
IS however graduated more on those principles of taste 
which habit cherishes in an American, as it abounds 
lar more in the deep hues of the forest, and every 
where exhibits the signs of progressive improvement. 
Messrs. Hull & Bentley's house at the Springs is 
very large, commodious, and elegant ; and has accom- 
modated 300 persons at one time. The attendance 
and table will be found excellent, and Saratoga and 
Ballston waters may be obtained at the bar. It stands 
close by the spring, and is furnished with baths sup- 
plied With the water. The old house measures 90 
leet, and the new one 120 feet long. They stand in 
the form of an L, and a fine piazza runs along them 
both, measuring 220 feet. The place now vies with 
Ballston and Saratoga, and has sometimes counted 
more visiters than either of them. 

There is a small fish pond in the neighbouriiood. 

ROADS FROM LEBANON SPRINGS. 

From New-Lebanon Springs to Troy, there is u 
very good road, through a variegated country. Dis- 
tances as follows: to Nassau, 16 miles; thence to 
Troy, 11. 

From the Springs to Hudson is 28 miles, and stage 
coaches go thither. The following is a table of dis- 
tances on the road to Boston : 

Pittsfield,* 7 miles ; Hinsdale, 9 ; Peru,! 4 ; Wor- 
thinglon, 6 ; Chesterfield, 6 ; Northampton,! 13 ; Had- 

* At Pittsfipld is a nourishing Boarding School for boys. 

t A church roof on a hill in this town, is said to divide the waters of 
the Connecticut and liousatouick, tlie rain running from it in opposllii 
directions. ' ^ 

tNortliamptou is a beautiful town oTi Couneeilcut River, and well 



icy, o ■ Amherst, 4 ; Belchertown, 7 ; Ware, 6 ; Wes- 
tern, 8 ; Brookfield, 6 ; Spencer, 7 ; Leicester, 11 ; 
Worcester, 6 ; Framingham, 10 ; Boston, 21—134. 

The Sfiaker^ Village, a few miles from the Springs, 
IS an object of attention to most visiters. The village 
itself presents a scene of great neatness and beauty, 
as it is situated on a beautiful level, and laid out with 
the utmost regularity. The fields are divided by right 
lines, fenced with the most substantial materials, and 
cultivated with great faithfulness and skill. It is a 
leading principle with the society, to allow of no pri- 
vate property: all the possessions of those who join 
them are thrown into the common stock, and submitted 
at once to their peculiar system of life and govern- 
liient. Celibacy they insist upon as indispensable ; 
and they profess to banish the love of wealth and ain- 
bition, as well as luxury in all its degrees, from their 
territories. 

So much has been lately published on their pecu- 
liar doctrines, that few words need to be said here on 
the subject. Not that their principles are very per- 
fectly understood by the public ; on the contrary, few 
indeed can be said to comprehend them, even among 
the society itself. It may, in fact, be doubted, whether 
two persons could be found who would give the same 
representation of the subject. 

The founder of their sect was Ann Lee, who came 
from England some years ago, and established a small 
"family," as they call it, which has been succeeded 
by various similar institutions in different parts of the 
country. They regard that woman as nearly equal to 
the Saviour of the world ; and themselves as the only 
persons who have received that spiritual light which is 
necessary to understand and practise the duty of man, 
that is, to renounce the pleasures of the world, and, 
by a life of self-denial, present a living testimony 
against error and wickedness. Their dress is plain, 

1 worthy of a day's delay at least. Mount HolyoJce commands tlie finest 
'^'>n- in '1:1* part of the country, and is easily accessible. (See Index-;- 



4'j t 111 Vi; ALBAAl, 

and theii' '.vorship consists principally ol a strange ana 
disagreeable kind of dancing, whence they have their 
name, accompanied with a monotonous song. 

Some of their most experienced and perfect mem- 
bers pretend to " speak with tongues," heal disease.- 
with a touch of the hand, and perform other miracles 
like the apostles. They consider the marriage con- 
tract as dissolved on joining the society. 

They pay great attention to the raising of garden 
seeds in most of their villages, as well as to several of 
the neater branches of manufacture, and derive from 
both a very handsome inco»;.e, by making sales aL 
home and iii distant parts of the country. Whoever 
has an opportunity to see this singular people, will 
}nobably leel gratified with their neatness, industry, 
and economy ; but will perhaps leave the place with 
pity for some, and suspicion of others. 

Geology. The tract of country between New-Le- 
banon and Albany is transition. Bluish gray transi- 
tion limestone, with veins of calcareous spar, abounds 
here in strata on a large scale, with a considerable 
inclination. It is compact, with a slaty structure, 
Graywacke abounds at intervals ; also transition slate, 
and a line red sandstone. At Greenbush is a Led tf 
lUiiniiaQtmable fossil coal, or anthracite. 

ALBANY. 

The Albany Basin. The northern and western 
canals unite at the disJjnce of li\ miles from Albany, 
and terminate here, at a large basin in the Hudsoi;. 
one of the greatest works connected with the cana!. 
It is 4000 teet long, and has two or three handsoii;e 
biidges, one with a draw to allow a passage lor 
sloops, which leads from tho. foot of State-street. The 
pier which encloses the basin on the river side, is buiit 
of logs, and wide enough for a spacious street. It is 
a place of deposile for vast quantities ot lumber. 

Annually [here aiy many arrivals and deoarlures c: 



IJOT TE TO XTAGAKA. 4< 

canal boats nt Albany, will) great quantities of flour, 
and many million feet of plank and boards. Thou- 
sands of tons of merchandise, also, go north and west. 

The size of this basin may afl'ord the stranger some 
-idea of the extent of the business created by the canal^^. 
Here the traveller gets the first view o( objects with 
which he is afterward to become familiar ; and if he 
is travelling this way for the first time in a few years, 
he must look with surprise upon the crowd of Doats, 
,'ind the bustle of industry. He may look upon thera 
also with additional interest ; for they Avill be hereaf- 
ter presented to his view in many varying forms, 
though still preserving the characteristic aspect and 
impression, which distinguish the whole line of inter- 
nal improvements to its termination. Tolls on both 
canals in 1829, about ^790.000. 

The route to Schenectady, by the canal, although so 
rauch longer than the stage road, and so much ob- 
structed by frequent locks, is hif>hly worthy of the 
travellers attention, either in going or in returning ; 
for it will afford him an opportunity of seeing the junc- 
tion of the two canals, the Cohoes Falls on the Mo- 
hawk, the locks by which the rise of land is artificially 
surmounted, the aqueducts which bear the canal twice 
across the river, the Wat Hoix Rapid, and the gap 
through which the canal passes ; the scenery at Alex- 
ander's Bridge, &c. 

Kiskey^ma, the original settlement of the Shakers, is 
about 4^ miles from Albany. 

ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO NIAGARA. 

The boats start from the first lock, which is at the 
north end of Albany ; so that a carriage will be neces- 
sary for the traveller and his luggage. 

Description of a Canal Packet Boat. The length is 
60 or 70 feet, a large part of which is devoted to the 
dining room, where two rows of tables are set. A^ 
ni^ht, mat*re«.ps are spread on llje seats each side, 



40 KOUTE TO Zs'IAb'AiiA. 

and in another row above them on cots suspended troai 
the roof. The ladies are accommodated with births 
in the cabin, which is usually carpeted, hung with cur- 
tains, and in other respects more handsomely fur- 
nished. The kitchen and bar are conveniently situ- 
ated ; and the tables are spread with an abundance, 
and often a delicacy, which may well surprise those 
not accustomed to the cheapness of travelling in this 
part of the country. 

A small library, a number of newspapers, &c. will 
serve to make the time pass agreeably, even if the tra- 
veller be a stranger, or the weather not inviting. In 
many places, the view from the deck is highly inte- 
resting ; but it cannot be too often recommended to the 
stranger to beware of standing on deck when ap- 
proaching a bridge, and never to expose the head or 
hands out of a window. 

RENSSELAERWYCK, 

A fine estate with its respectable old mansion house, 
about a mile north of the centre of the city, is worthy 
of particular observation, as the seat of the Honour- 
able Stephen Van Rensselaer, who bears the respected 
old Dutch title of Patroon of Albany. The estate is 
of immense value, extending ten miles along the river, 
and double that distance east and west : while he 
possesses besides, a fine tract on the Black River, &c. 
It was formerly entailed and secured i »y law to the oldest 
son of the family ; but on the death of the present pro- 
prietor it is to be divided equally among all the chil- 
dren. The character of Gen. V. R. is too estimable 
and influential to allow his name to be passed over in 
silence, even in a work like the present little volume. 
He has been a powerful patron, for many j^ears, of all 
plans for the public benefit, and one of the earliest and 
most efficient friends of the Erie Canal, which passes 
through his grounds, and terminates within view of hK 
house. 



Vmted statp:s' ah. exai, 49 

U. States' Arsenah 5^ mile?, al Gibbonsvilif. The 
advantages of this situation will be immediately per- 
ceived : the vicinity to the Hudson, the road, and the 
canal affording every convenience for the transporta- 
tion of arms and ammunition. This depository of 
arms, &c. is under the charge of Major Talcott. 

The ground occupied by the arsenal extends from 
the road near the river, back to the tow path of the 
canal, where are two gun houses, with low projecting 
roofs to protect the carriages from exposure to the 
weather. Strangers may easily gain access by mere 
application at the officers' quarters. One floor is de- 
voted to such arms as are intended for the supply of 
the military posts, or have been received for repairing. 
The arms in the other parts are disposed with more 
taste. The muskets are partly packed in boxes, and 
partly ranged upright, with fixed bayonets, in compact 
r)rder ; and present an appearance truly formidalde. 
Thousands of pistols are hung overhead ; those in the 
alternate lines standing different w'ays ; and swords 
■with metallic scabbards are disposed horizontally on 
wire hooks. Tiie walls bear several devices formed 
of swords, pistols, Sz,c. ingeniously arranged. This is 
the principal depot of arms and equipments in the 
northern states. 

The passages and staircases are hung with drums, 
&c. On the ground floor are a few pieces of artillerj-. 
and various sizes of shot, shells, &:c. &c. 

In the yard are two ranges of buildings. That on 
the north is devoted to workshops for the repair of 
arms, manufacturing locks, &c. about 30 men being 
usually employed, most of whom are enlisted. The 
buildings on the south side are occupied b}^ smiths and 
carpenters. Behind these is a handsome flower and 
fruit garden ; the kitchen garden being on the north 
side of the grounds. 

The muskets are repaired about once in a year ; 
■which costs from 50 cents to gl 50 or $2 each. The 
^larrels are oxydized. to prevent rustins:. The mu«- 
E" 5 



..U ItoS'TB 'iu AiAGAliA. 

kels weigh a little more than ten pounds, and the part.^ 
arc intended to correspond as nearly as can easily be 
done. 

In the yard are a number of cannon, &c. There 
are 4 medium 12 pounders, one 24, and one howitzer, 
all taken at Saratoga ; 4 medium 12 pounders and one 
howitzer, taken at Yorktown ; two long antique pieces 
and one 8 inch mortar, taken at Stony Point ; two old 
French 4 pounders and 14 guns, sent by king Louis to 
the Continental Congress in the Revolution. These 
are all of brass, and most of them highly ornamented. 
The French guns presented by the king bear each an 
individual name forward, and the inscription " Ultima 
ratio regvAii''' — (the last argument of kings.) 

There are also three or lour howitzers cast in New- 
York and Philadelphia in the Revolution, some of the 
oldest specimens of such manufacture in this country. 
They bear the letters U. C. for United Colonies, 

TROY, 

On the opposite side of the river is a very handsome 
lown, with fine hills in the rear, the most prominent 
of which has received the name of Mount Ida, to cor- 
respond with the classic appellation of the place. 
There is a good horse ferr}', which helps to render the 
town a great thoroughfare during the travelling season. 
The Dam and Basin at Troy form a great and expen- 
sive Avork, and are of marked benefit to the place, by 
diverting a part of the business of the canal. The 
court-house, and other public buildings are worthy of 
notice. 

The road to New-Lebanon is a very good and very 
pleasant one. The distance is 27 miles. 

Sandy Lake is 10 miles on this road, Nassau 8 more, 
village of New-Lebanon 12 iurther, and Lebanon 
Springs 2 more. 

On Mount Ida, the hill east of Troy, is a fine sue- 
G^<!?-ion of waterfalls, on two streams^, the PoestenkilJ 



tJilV OX' TItOi. oJ 

;^iid the Wynantskill. One of them has cut its waj- 
in some places to a great depth, and takes three oi 
four perpendicular leaps at short intervals of only a 
few yards. The road to New-Lebanon Springs leads 
near the place, which is worthy of attention for its 
picturesque character. There are several mills of 
I different descriptions, and a cotton manufactory on the 
same stream, where Nos. 34 and 36 are made. The 
factory is large enough for 2,300 spindles and 70 
I power looms. 

Mount Ida. — The view from the top of this hill, and 

still more from the mountain behind it, is very exten- 

[ sive and beautiful. It embraces the Hudson for a 

1 considerable distance up and down ; with the courses 

of the two canals, before and after their junction ; 

together with many of the objects already spoken of; 

particularly the range of the distant Catskill Mountains, 

which present a boundary to the scene in the south-west. 

A canal route has been surveyed by the state of 

Massachusetts, from Boston to Troy. From Troy to 

1 Connecticut river, 78 miles of canal would cost three 

millions of dollars, with a tunnel of four miles through 

I Hoosac mountain, lockage 611 feet. 

I At the Va?i Rensselaer School, the students deliver 

lectures, by turns, on the branches of study to which 

. they are devoted ; and during the pleasant seasons of 

- the year, they allow much time to making personal 

j observations on farming, the botany of the neighbour- 

I hood, &c. Boarding costs about $1,50 per week, and 

I no charge is made for room rent, use of the library, 

1 apparatus, <Sic. 

Rensselaer School at Troy. — A very liberal and gene- 
I rous step has been adopted, with regard to the ad- 
mission of pupils into this institution. Any person 
I above 18 years of age is gratuitously offered educa- 
I tion, who shall present a certificate from the first judge 
I of any county in the state, attesting his scientific ac- 
' quisitions to be equal to those required by law, to be 
'aught in any incorporatefi academy there : and that 



o2 liOUTE TO r^IAGARA. 

he has a good moral character, and will return to hi^ 
county and exert himself to introduce and extend the 
experimental plan of education. 

Miss Willard^s Academy^ for young ladies, is also a 
very respectable establishment. 

The Flour Mill, south of the town, can grind 2000 
bushels of wheat in a day, and 1500 with ease. 

The JVail and Spike Manufactory makes, of red- j 
hot iron, every thing from a shingle nail to a ship 
spike. 

HYDROSTATIC LOCK. 

In order to prevent fraud in the collection of toll, 
three of these works have been constructed : — one at 
Troy, one at Utica, and one at Syracuse. They are 
commonly called weigh-locks. The following account 
of them may be interesting to those who have never 
seen them. 

The chamber is on the same level with the canal, 
and is filled from it by a paddle gate. On a level 
below the chamber, is a receptacle, into which the 
chamber can be emptied ; and from this the water 
can be discharged. 

" Suppose the column of water in the lock in which 
the boat is afloat, is 85 feet long, 15 wide, and 4 k^t 
deep ; then by multiplying the length, width, and 
depth of this column into each other, its contents in 
cubic feet are obtained. The water is then drawn 
off into the receptacle, and the boat settles down upon 
timbers, so arranged as to yield to its shape, by which 
it is supported, without being strained or injured. 
The quantity of water drawn from the lock is then 
ascertained by a graduated rod. Suppose the water 
in the receptacle measures 30 feet long, 25 feet wide, 
and 5 feet deep : these, multiplied into each other as 
before, will produce 3750 cubic ieet It appears from 
the above, that the water, with the loaded boat floating 
in it. rnntRined 5100 nibic f<^pt. and \h^^ the same AvoteV 



THE JUNCTIO]N. .j.S 

aiawn oil" aud measured separately, contained 3750 
cubic (eet, which, subtracted from the preceding, will 
give 1350 cubic feet of water displaced by the loaded 
boat. And as a cubic foot of fresh water weighs 1000 
ounces avoirdupois, or 62^ pounds, it follows that 
1350X621=84375, the weight of the loaded boat. 
This is to be reduced to tons, and the weight of the 
empty boat previously ascertained in the same manner, 
is to be deducted, and the remainder will be the 
weight of the cargo. After an empty boat has been 
once weighed, she is numbered, and her weight is 
registered at the several hydrostatic locks." 

Some of the ordinaiy locks on the route were 
altered on a new plan in 1827, by which they are 
emptied in half the former time. 

The opportunity for looking around on every side 
is much better enjoyed in a canal boat than in a stage 
coach, or even a private carriage, although it some- 
times happens, that the road commands more extensive 
views than the canal. The immediate scene from the 
latter, however, will usually be found the most agree- 
able ; for a smooth sheet of water, with level and often 
grassy banks, is a more pleasant sight than a long 
^tretch of muddy or sandy highway. Besides, it is 
ilways free from the inconvenience of dust, whicli 
frequently renders the roads in this part of the country 
jxtremely uncomfortable. 

The Double Locks. — The two locks which occur just 
jelow the junction of the northern and western canals, 
jivere doubled in 1825, to furnish room for the boats, 
I which pass here in great numbers. They are built 
')f marble from Westchester county. 
' The Junction, 8| miles from Albany, is where the 
iSforthern and Western canals meet and unite. To 
his spot the canal has been of a greater width than 
;ither of the branches will be found to be. Tlie 
SWthern canal runs to Whitehall, Lake Champlain, 
vith locks, a distance of 62^ miles, passing througli 
'Vitprfnrd.Halfmoon. Stiihvater.near Pemi's's Heidits, 



.hi llOLTE TO KIAGAUA. 

(14 miles from Waterford,) with the battle (ri'ounds of 
t^eneral Burffojme, Fort Hardy, where he surrendered. 
Fort Miller, Fort Edward, and Fort Anne. 

The Erie or Western canal, reaches to Buffalo, on 
Lake Erie, a distance of 362 miles. It has 83 locks, Ip 
which raise and lower the water 680 feet in all. The i 
principal points where the most labour and expense ' 
were required, are the following : 

The Basin at Albany, — the Dam and Basin at Troy, t 
— the Locks at the Cohoes Falls, — the two Aqueducts 
on which the canal twice crosses the Mohawk, — the 
lon^ Stone Wall and Locks at Little Falls, tog;ether 
with the beautiful Aqueduct for the Feeder at that 
place, — the long stretch through the Onondaga Swamp, 
— the great Embankment at Victor, where for two 
miles the boats pass 72 feet above the level, — the 
Aqueduct over the Genesee at Rochester, — the five 
double combined Locks at Lockport, and the long 
Pier at Black Rock. 

The principal natural objects near it are : 

The Cohoes Falls,— Little Falls,— the Falls of Tren- 
ton, 14 miles north-east of Utica, — the Lakes of Onei- 
da, Salina, Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca, and Canan- 
daigua — the three Falls of the Genesee River, at 
Rochester and Carthage, — Niagara, — and the Lakes 
of Ontario and Erie. 

The amount of toll received on the Erie, Cham- 
plain, Oswego, and Cayuga canals, in 1829, was 
$816,302. 

At the 9 Locks, the road to Waterford leaves t'ne 
Erie canal on the west, and the Champlain canal on 
the east; and crosses the Mohawk River below the 
Cohoes Falls. There is a very fine view of the locks, 
the river, and the falls, from the road which runs along; 
the south bank of the river, 140 feet high, between it 
and the canal. 

(The book will now follow the great route, west- 
ward, to Niagara. For the mad to the Springs, sefi | 
TVnferfird.) 



ii2sioS VOLLEUt: 



^ COHOES FALLS. 

This is the great Cataract of the Mohawk Rivero 

he heig:ht of the fall is 62 feet. The banks are 

s|iere walls of stratified rock, rough, and sometimes 

ollowed out beneath, rising about 140 feet above the 

iver for a great distance below the falls. A beautiful 

jew bridge, on Towne's plan, was built across the river 

1 1828, near the dam, some distance below the old 

ridge. At first view ihe cataract appears almost as 

regular as a mill-dam ; but on a nearer approach, the 

t-^dge of rocks overAvhich the water is precipitated is 

Jjund extremely irregular and broken. Many fine 

csh are caught at the bottom. 

g Tlie Lower Aqueduct^ 24 miles. On account of the 
difficulty of cutting the canal along this side of the 
jiver, above this place, it was found easier to carry it 
ver, as there is a natural channel on the other side, 
vhich will be seen with surprise. This aqueduct is 
188 feet long, and rests on 26 stone piers and abut- 
aents. 

Wat Hoix Gap, 2\ miles — the channel above men- 
ioned. 

. Upper Aqueduct, 9^ miles — 748 feet lon2^, and rests 
,)n 16 piers. The scene at Alexander'' s Bridge is fine. 

Schcneciady [Greens^ inn) is one of the oldest set- 
lements in the state, having been occupied as a little 
j'ontier fortress before the year 1665, when it was 
tttacked by a party of French and Indians from 
I'anada, and burnt, and many of the inhabitants mur- 
lered. This party was designed against the Five 
Stations ; but being much worn down with travelling 
i) the winler, they fell on Schenectady. 

Union College is conspicuously situated a little out 

)i town. Two large stone biiiidings have been erected 

several years, but the original plan, which was quite 

1 extensive, has never been completed. Dr. Nott is 

president of this highly respectable institution. li\ 

^i828, 79 young men gr^'.iuated at this iiiililuticn. 



iiOUTE TO jNXAGAK-A 



FROM SCHENECTADY TO UTICA. 

By the Canal 79^ miles * 

Rotterdam Flats 3 miles. 

Flint Hill 8 

Fort Hunter 10 

North of the canal, and on the bank of the Mohawk, 
is the place where this little fort formerly stood. Like 
most of the places of defence built in this state during- 
the Revolution and the French wars, it was small and 
fitted only for resisting such little bands of enemies as 
used to approach the settlements on this frontier. 

Near this place is the site of an old fort of the Mo- 
hawk Indians ; and there is still to be seen a chapel 
built by Queen Anne, near the beginning of the last 
century, for the use of that nation. It is known by 
the name of Qiieen Anne's Chapel. 

SCHOHARIE CREEK. 1 mile. 

Here is a collection of several very interesting works, 
iormed for the convenient passage of boats across a 
broad and rapid stream. A guard lock preserves the 
water in the canal from rising or falling, and the cur- 
rent of the creek is set back by a dam a little below, 
nearly to the same level. The dam is constructed in 
a manner best calculated to resist the pressure of the 
current in floods, and when increased by the ice. It 
has a broad foundation and a narrow top ; and it is 
built so as to present an angle against the middle of 
the current. An ingenious invention has been devised 
for drawing boats across the creek by machinery. A 
wheel turned by a horse moves a rope, which is 
stretched double across, and is carried round a wheel 
on the other side ; a line attached to this draws the 
boats, they being kept in their course by another line. 

" ^;, ; './ --■■ 79\ SI niijf.?, {?ee '•' Rcms''' at the eml of tl?v? volam'? 




-A 

n 

I 



A:\TiiOiSY S ISOsE. -Ti 

which slides upon a long rope stretched across the 
creek on the other side of the boats. 

CAUGHNAWAGA, 4i miles 

, The village of JoJinstown is situated at the distance 
] of four miles north of the canal.* 

Anthony's Nose, I'l miles. This is a high and pro- 
minent hill, rising abruptly on the southern bank of 
j the river. On the top is a remarkable cavern, which 
,| extends downwards to a great depth, with several 

I * Tribe's Hill is a coimnanding elevation ivitiiin tlie limits of Joiins- 
J town. It was formerly the place of the council tire of the Mohawk 

Indians; and the Germans have corrupted its name to "Tripe's Hill," 

by which it is conmionly known. 
: At Johnstown, on the road, are two fine houses, built of stone, standing 

- at the distance of a mile from each other. Tiiey were erected by Sir 
William Johnson and his family, as this tract of country was the place 

- of his residence, and formed a part of his vast and valuable estate. 
Tliere was originally a third house, similarly built, and at the interval of 

: another mile : but this was consumed by fire. Col. Guy Johnson and Col. 
, John Johnson (sons of Sir AVilliam) inhabited two of them until the 
T revolutionary war; when, having attached themselves to the British 
1 interest, they removed into Canada, and their estates were confiscated. 
1 Colonel John afterward came down with a party of French and In- 
dians, attacked the town, and made prisoners many of his old friends 
and neighbours. 

Sir William Johnson, who makes so conspicuous a figure in the 
history of the state about the time of the French war, was born in Ire- 
land, in 1714, and in 1734 came to America, at the solicitation of his 
I uncle, Sir Peter Warren, who had acquired a large estate here through 
his wife. Sir William became well acquainted with the Indian language 
and manners, and acquired a greater influence over ihem than any other 
white man ever possessed. He rose from the station of a private soldier 
to the rankof a general, and commanded at lake George in 1755, although, 
I as will hereafter be seen, the title which he there received was really 
, merited by Gen. Lyman. July 25, 1759, he took Fort Niagara, and in 
! 1769 went to join Gen. Amherst at Oswego, and assisted in the capture 
^ of Montreal. He died and was buried at his seat, July 7, 1774, at the 
age of 60, very rich, in consequence of the incveassed value of his extcn- 
' sive estate after the French war. This building was erected in 1773, 
' and stands nearly a mile westward from the village. It is called the 
Hall. 

The Battle of Johnstown. On the 2.5th of October, 1781, Col. Willet, 
With 400 white men and 60 of the Oneida tribe, fought 600 of the Eng- 
lish and Indians, on the grounds belonging to the mansion. The loss of 
tlie enemy was considerable, and they suffered so much during their 
retreat, that on their arrival in Canada their numbers were re(Tnced 
to 22*> 

F 



ijo liUUi'E TO JNiAliAliA, 

apartments of considerable size. This hill is repre- 
sented in one of the plates ; but the view is taken from 
a spot west of it. The place is quite picturesque, and 
presents a remarkable assemblage of interesting ob- 
jects : the Mohawk river, winding through a narrow 
valley, with the turnpike on the north side, the canal 
and a country road on the south ; the whole enclosed 
by rough and elevated hills. 

There is every appearance of a rent in the hills 
having been made by a strong current of water; and 
geologists consider them as having originally been a 
barrier to a great lake which was thus gradually 
drained. 

Canajofiarie Creek and ViUage, 5 miles. Hence a 
stage coach two or three times a week to Cherry 
Valley. 

Fort Plain, 4 miles. Here is a small village, be- 
longing to a town inhabited by the descendants of 
Germans. It occupies ihe site of old Fori Plain. The 
German language, much corrupted, is spoken here by 
every body. 

This little fort was surprised by Captain Butler in 
the revolutionary war, on his return from burning 
Cherry Valley ; and here he committed similar 
atrocities. 

DAM ON THE RIVER, AND FEEDER FOR 

THE CANAL, 4 miles. 

The Mouth of East Canada Creek, on the opposite 
aide of the Mohawk. Near that place, Capt. Butler 
met a violent death, soon after leaving Fort Plain, on 
his way back to Oneida Lake and the Oswego. He 
had crossed the river somewhere below, and while 
lingering a little in the rear of his troops, was over- 
taken near the mouth of the creek, by two Oneida 
Indians, in friendship with the Americans. Seeing 
them preparing to kill him, he begged for his life ; 
but they only replied, ^^ Skerry Valley P^ and toma- 
hawked liim on the spot. 



LITTLE FALLS. oif 

Mohawk Castle^ 2 miles. This was the principal 
defensive position of that famous nation of Indians 
now entirely scattered and lost. As the nearest to the 
Dutch settlements, and New-England, they were long^ 
regarded with peculiar solicitude, and frequently with 
great dread. They were one of the five nations, of 
which we shall speak more particularly, at Oneida, 
and were long faithful and serviceable friends to the 
white men. Here is an old chapel erected for 
their use. 

Palatine Bridge. A little off the canal, at Palatine, 
is a school for the education of the Deaf and Dumb, 
establish'^d under the patronage of the state, on the 
plan of that in Hartford, Connecticut. It is the cen- 
tral school for the state of Nevv-\^ork. {See Hartford.) 

LITTLE FALLS. 

The country presents a varied surface, and increases 
in interest on approaching Little Falls, which is the 
most romantic scene on the course of the Erie canal. 
On reaching a little open meadow surrounded by hills, 
where the views open upon cultivated fields and a (ew 
farm houses, the Mohawk will be found flowing below 
on the right ; while on the opposite side, at the foot 
of the hills and on the verge of the forest that covers 
them, the great road is seen, after having been lost to 
the view for a long time. Here is situated Gen. Her- 
kimer's house, on the south side of the river at the 
foot of Fall Hill. The road, the river, and the canal 
are collected again at the head of the valley ; for 
there is but one passage, and that so narrow as hardly 
to afford room for them all. This is a deep cut through 
a chain of limestone and granite hills, doubtless torn 
away in some former age by the force of water. If 
the chain were again filled up it would throw the 
water back, and form an immense lake, such as is sup- 
posed to have once existed west of this place, and 
lyhich. by overflowing its bounds, in process of timr 



t'.O KOUTE TO ^lAGAliA. 

■^vore away the limestone strata, and cut deep into the 
hard g^ranite, until a mere river succeeded, and the 
fine alluvial plains above, called the German Flats, 
•were left dry. 

The stranger should, by no means, neglect the view 
of this place. If he reaches it early or late in a pleasant 
day, particularly near the rising of the sun, the beauty 
of the scene will be redoubled. On the north bank 
of the river, the road climbs along the side of the 
rocks, where there is barely room for ils passage. A 
great part of the way, it is almost overhung by rocks 
and trees on one side, while on the other is a preci- 
pice of granite, cut down by the force of water in 
perpendicular shafts, originally formed by drills, made 
by loose stones whirled round in the current. The 
same appearance extends to the islands and rocks in 
the channels, many of which appear quite inaccessible, 
with their ragged and perpendicular sides overhung 
by dark evergreens, whose shade seems the more 
intense from its contrast with the white rapids and cas- 
cades below. In some places the road is protected 
by immense natural battlements, formed of massy 
rock, which have been loosened from above, and 
planted themselves on the brow of the precipice. The 
scenery has been compared with that of the river 
Dove in Derbyshire, and the Killin in Perthshire, 
England. 

On the south side of the river runs the canal, sup- 
ported by a wall 20 or 30 feet high, constructed at 
great expense, and rising from the very channel of the 
Mohawk. The wildness of the surrounding scenery 
contrasts no less with the artificial beauty of this 
noble work, than the violence and tumult of the Mo- 
hawk with the placid and silent surface of the canal, 
or the calmness and security with which the boats 
glide along the side of the mountains. 

The traveller may step on shore at the two locks, 
and walk along the tow f)aths, as there are five more 
locks a mile above. If he wishes to stop a (o-sv 



THE AQUEDUCT. 61 

hours to view the scene more at leisure, the vi]lag:e of 
Little Falls is only half a mile from that place, where 
is a lareie and comfortable inn, with canal boats and 
stage coaches passing- very frequently. If he intends 
io stay but a few hours, it i? recommended to him to 
have his bag'gage left at a little tavern on the canal, 
'where it can be readily transferred to another boat. 

The Aqueduct across the Mohawk is near the five 
locks ; and is considered the most finished specimen 
of mason work on the line of the canal, though much 
inferior in size to that over the Genesee at Rochester. 
It conducts a supply of water from the old canal, 
formerly built for boats to pass the falls, and commu- 
nicates also with a large basin on the north bank. It 
passes the narrow channel of the river with three 
beautiful arches, which are covered with a calcareous 
cement roughened by little stalactites, formed by the 
water that continually drips through the stones. The 
span of the middle arch is 60 feet. Stones, twigs of 
trees, &c. on which the water falls, are soon found 
incrusted with a similar substance. The channel here 
shows part of the old limestone strata, with the more 
durable granite rocks laid bare below. 

This range of mountains, called in this part of the 
state the Critsbergs, is a spur of the Alleghany, and 
extcFids along the west side of Lake Champlain, till 
it disappears in the northern levels in Canada. 

This neighbourhood i> interesting to the geologist, 
abounding in organic remains, &c. but the oidinary 
traveller will be more pleased with specimens of the 
beautiful little rock-crystals (quartz), which are 
found on the hills about a mile distant from the village. 
They are perfect in their form, terminating with two 
pyramids ; and are so loosely imbedded in a sandy 
rock, as to be washed out by the rains in considerable 
numbers. 

There are mills of various kinds at this place. 

On leaving Little Falls, the canal enters upon a 
beautiful meadow of fine soil, and a smooth surface ; 
F2 



♦I'd KUUTE TO AlAGAliA. 

through which the Mohawk winds in a placid anu 
gentle current, enclosed on each side by sloping hills. 
At the distance of three miles, we are in the level region 
called the German Flats, famous for its fertility. The 
inhabitants, who are almost all of German extraction, 
still preserve their language, and many of the customs 
of their ancestors, and though often laborious and 
provident farmers, are little inclined to those improve- 
ments in learning or the useful arts, which distinguish 
so large a portion of the state. The scenes presented 
along this part of the canal bear a resemblance to 
some of the meadows of the Connecticut, although of 
inferior size, and of more recent settlement. 

Six miles from Little Falls is Lock JVo. 48. An old 
church is seen on the south side ; and also, old Fort 
Herkimer. 

Herkimer. This village is situated about a mile and 
a half be^'ond, and a mile north of the canal, on a 
semicircular plain ; the circumference of which is 
traced by the Mohawk, and the diameter by the 
great road. It derives its name from Gen. Herkimer, 
of whom there will be more to say at Rome. Fort 
Herkimer, or the " Stone House," is near the canal, a 
mile and a half from Herkimer. 

The traveller may take a carriage here, to visit 
Trenton Falls, and join the canal again at Utica ; or 
go first from Utica. 

The Long Level begins at Lock No. 53, nearly six 
miles west of Herkimer. It is the longest reach on 
the canal, without any interruption by locks, extending 
to Salina, a distance of 69| miles. After passing 
Franktbrt, we reach 

UTICA. 

This is one of the largest and most important of the 
western towns. Here the river, the great road, and 
the canal, all meet again. There are also roads con- 
centratine: here, from various directions, and stagf^ 




gOT'Auvqiv^V 



,idu t>. 




1 HE'iiTOJN" i'ALLs. bo 

toaches aniving and departing in great numbers. 
There are two large stage houses ; one of which, at 
the canal bridge, will be found most convenient, if not 
too crowded. 

There are several handsome churches in Utica, and 
one or more for almost every denomination. The 
streets are broad, straight, and commodious ; and the 
principal ones well built with rows of brick stores, or 
elegant dwelling-houses. The bridge over the Mo- 
hawk is at the end of the street. There were, in 
1825, 5040 inhabitants : a few less than in Rochester. 

Weigh Lock. (See p. 52.) 

Hamilton College is situated near the village ot 
Clinton, nine miles from Utica. There were fourteen 
graduated here in 1828. 

TRENTON FALLS. 

I This most interesting vicinity is well worthy the 
attention of every person of taste, being justly consi- 
! dered one of the finest natural scenes in this part of 
the country. An excellent inn is kept near the falls by 
Mr. Sherman, who has a large collection of rare and 
curious petrifactions, collected among the rocks, worthy 
of examination. 

From this house you descend a long staircase down 
the steep bank of the West Canada Creek, which has 
j cut a frightful chasm through a rocky range, in some 
I places 150 feet deep, and Is seen gliding swiftly by 
t through a declining channel below. The chasm con- 
tinues for four miles, and presents the greatest variety 
of cascades and rapids, boiling pools and eddies. The 
passage or chasm between the rocks is everywhere 
very narrow, and in some places is barely sufficient 
to permit the stream to pass ; while the rocks rise 
perpendicularly on each side, or sometimes even 

E reject a considerable distance overhead, so that it 
as been often necessary to form an artificial path by 
Tweans of gunpowder. These plac<^s appear danger- 



04 KOUTi: TO IVIAGARA. 

oiis, but only require a little caution and presence o£ 
mind to ensure the safety of the visiter, as strong iron 
chains are fixed iiito the rocks to offer hinn security. 
There are four principal cataracts, between the stair- 
case by which you first descend and the usual limit 
of an excursion, which is about a mile and a quarter 
up the stream. The first of these you discover soon 
after the first turning, and is about 40 feet high ; with 
the greatest fall towards the west. The top of the 
rock on the right side is 150 feet high by line mea- 
surement. The second is a regular fall, much like a 
mill dam, about eight feet high ; the third, a remark- 
ably striking and beautiful one ; and the fourth, rather 
a succession of cascades, but presents many most 
agreeable varieties. 

Near the foot of this a melancholy accident occurred 
in 1827. A lady from New-York was drowned by 
slipping from a low bank ; unseen, although her friends 
and parents were near her. The ear is stunned by the 
falls, the rocks are slippery, and great caution is re- 
commended. 

A singular species of tree is found in this neighbour- 
hood, called the white cedar, with drooping branches, 
which often grow to such a length as to descend far 
below the root, towards the wafer. The rocks here 
are all a dark limestone, of a very slaty structure, 
and contain astonishing quantities of petrified marine 
shells and other animals of antediluvian date, such as 
dilobites, trilobites, &c. &c. 

The are several other cataracts besides those already 
mentioned, both above and below ; and a stranger 
might spend some time here very agreeably in observ- 
ing them at leisure, and in catching the fine trout with 
which the creek abounds. The house is commodious, 
and has the reputation of furnishing one of the best 
tables in this part of the state. 



51EGJ3 t)F roKT STA^WIX. ♦«> 

FROM UTICA TO SYRACUSE. 

By the Canal 63| miles. 

Whitestovvn, . 4 miles-. 

Oriskany village, . . 7 

Rome on the right, 8 

Feeder from Wood Creek, and the old U. 

S. Arsenal, 1 

Oneida Creek, 14 

Lock 54, end of the long level, ... 29 

Syracuse, — f 

These places are noticed in succession. 
Whitestown is one of the most beautiful villages in 
this part of the state, as well as the oldest settlement. 
All this tract of country was a perfect wilderness in 
1 785, when Mr. White, from Middletown, in Connec- 
ticut, first took up his abode here and lifted an axe 
against the forest. The traveller may keep this in 
mind as he pursues his journey, and the progress of 
civilization will appear more astonishing. 

SIEGE OF FORT STANWIX. 

On the road from Whitestown to Ftome, is the spot 
where Gen. Herkimer remained under a tree after re- 
jceiving his mortal wound. In 1777, Gen. Burgoyne 
isent between 1500 and 1800 men, many of them sa- 
lvages, under Baron St. Leger, to go from Montreal, by 
I Lake Ontario, to attack Fort Stanwix ; and then to 
I go down the Mohawk to Albany. Early in August, 
(they arrived at Fort Stanwix. Gen. Herkimer, com- 
1 mander of the militia of Tryon county, was sent against 
them with 800 men. His men insisted on going on, to 
meet a detachment under Sir J. Johnson, sent out by 
St. Leger ; but at the first shot they fled. A iesiv re- 
mained and fought, and Gen. H. was killed. Con- 
gress voted a monument to his memor}% but it has 
never been erected. The Americans lost 160 killed. 
land 240 wounded and prisoners. Two miles bel-vv 



06 liOUTE TO NIAGARA. 

Fort Stanwix the canal commences between the Mo- 
hawk and Wood Creek. 

Fort Stanwix stood 60 or 80 rods N. E. of the centre 
of the village of Rome, with a deep ditch, three rows 
of palisadoes, and a block-house in the middle. 

Rome. Near this village, when the canal was opened 
through a ridge of diluvial formation, clams were 
found alive, which were eaten by the workmen. (See 
Am. Journ. of Sci. &,c. Jan. 1829.) 

ONEIDA CASTLE. 

This is a village on the confines of a tract of re- 
served land belonging to the Indians of the Oneida 
nation. The principal residences of most of the In- 
dians in this part of the country were formerly forti- 
fied in a manner corresponding with their ideas of 
warfare, and hence the name of castle attached to 
this village, as well ns to several others which we have 
occasion to speak of further on. 

The Oneidas were one of the original Five Nations, 
■which form so conspicuous a figure in the history of 
this state, and whose power and influence, at the time 
of the settlement of New- York and New-England, 
were extended far and wide. 

A mile east of Oneida Creek, and by the road side, 
is the ancient 

COUNCIL GROVE, 

Where all the public business of the nation has been, 
lor many years, transacted. It is formed of 27 fine but- 
ternut-trees, which, in the summer season, from a little 
distance, presents a beautiful and regular mass of ver- 
dure. Towards the south-east from this place is seen 
the Episcopal church, a building recently erected for 
the use of the Indians. Great numbers of the white per- 
sons from the neighbourhood also attend service at this 
house, as well as in the other church, which is supplied 
with preachers by the Foreisrn Missionary Society. 



KKO'J'llfclM'OWiS ATSli ISE\V-6TOGJviJ!KiDGK. U/ 

In the scattering: village about half a mile beyond, 
there are several decent and conilortable frame houses 
inhabited by Indian families, whose habits have risen 
to a higher grade than most of the nation, although 
inany of them are gradually improving, by betaking 
themselves to agriculture. 

1 A considerable portion of the tribe have recently 
removed to Green Bay. 

Schools among the Indians are encouraged by the 
general government of the U. S. In the whole coun- 
try there are 42 schools in different tribes, with 1291 
pupils, and 121 teachers. The annual cost to the U. 
iStatesisgTOOO. 

I The scholars are taught the rudiments of learning 
under a master and mistress, and also the useful arts. 

The Oneida nation were idolaters until within a 
short time ; but a few years ago the nation renounced 
I their ancient superstitious rites, and declared in favour. 
I of Christianity. 

IBROTHERTOWN AND NEW-STOCKBRiDGE 

I Are two villages, a few miles south-easterly from 
jhere, situated on part of the old Oneida reservation, 
but granted to some of their scattered Indian brethren 
{from Pennsylvania and New-England. New-Stock- 
! bridge, until recently, was the residence of the Stock- 
bridge tribe, who came by an invitation from the 
lOneidas some years ago. They had Christian minis- 
l-ers among them long before they removed from 
jStockbridge in Massachusetts. 

; Most of them now reside at Green Bay, on land 
jiven them by the Menoniinies, a nation with whom 
ihey are on the most friendly terms ; and are adopting 
'.o a good extent, the arts of civilized lite. They have 
invited the Oneidas to join them. 

Manlius Centre. 50 yards from the canal and two 
tniles east of Manlius Centre, is a curious spring, from 
j ^^hich sulphuretted hydrogen rises, and is inflammable. 



f)b liOLTi: lO ,\ LAG All A. 



SYRACUSE. 

This place is no less remarkable for the rapidit}^ oi 
lis growth, than for the peculiar advanta»-es of its situ- 
ation. The great Salt Spring is only a mile and a half 
distant, and the water is brought in hollow logs to the 
salt vats, in great abundance, and at a very trifling' 
expense. Tliese vats will be seen at the western side 
of the village, and are well worthy of a day's delay, 
as well as the works at Salina, Liverpool (6 miles 
distant), and Geddesburgh. In all these four villages^ 
about 500 acres, in 1827, were supposed to be covered 
with vats, for solar evaporation. The vats are large 
pans made of wood, three or four inches deep, raised 
a little from the ground, and placed in long ranges, 
with a very gradual descent, to permit the salt water 
to flow slowly along from one end to the other. Each 
range of vats is supplied by a hollow log placed per- 
pendicularly in the ground ; and the constant action of 
the sun evaporates the water, and leaves the salt to be 
deposited in small cubical crystals at the bottom. 
The water is at first a little thick, but gradually deposites 
its impurities ; and the lower vats always show a 
beautiful white crust, like the purest snow. 

Light wooden roofs are kept ready to slide over the 
vats when the weather requires it ; and the salt is taken 
out once in two or three days, to be deposited in the 
storehouses, which are built at regular distances. 

Thence it is easily removed to the canal, and then 
js ready for transportation to any part of the country. 

In 1823, there were about 100 houses, and the number 
was doubled in 1824. In 1825, the inhabitants 
amounted to 1000 ; and those of the township to 3025. 
There were then three churches in the village ; and 
736,632 bushels of salt were manufactured here in that 
year. In 1827, the salt vats covered one hundred and 
^ixfy acres, and cost the comnanics enGfajred. i''?120.00(> 




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Under such encouraging prospects, the village has 
acquired its sudden growth and importance ; large 
blocks of stores have been built on both sides of the 
canal, two or three large inns and stage houses arc 
ready for the accommodation of travellers, and a good 
deal of trade is carried on in the place. Improvements 
are still going on rapidly, and it is difficult to foretell 
where they will stop. Almost 3500 bushels of salt 
are made here in a year. 

The Oswego Canals v/as opened in July, 1828, 
leaves the Erie canal at this place, and affords a direct 
communication with Lake Ontario. A lake ship canal 
might be made at a small additional expense. The 
bank is used as a tow path a considerable distance. 
The shores rise gradually to a height of 100 feet, with 
few inhabitants and little cultivation. The locks and 
Pother works are of the best description, and very ad- 
mirable workmanship. A barrel of flour will go for 
six cents less, by the lake and this canal, from Ro- 
chester to Salina. It is 38 miles long. Half that dis- 
tance it is constructed along the bank of the river of 
the same name, connected with it by locks, and the other 
half is slack-water navigation in the river. It has 2£ 
bridges, 7 culverts, 1 aqueduct, 2 waste weirs, 8 dams 
across the river, 13 locks of stone and 1 of stone and 
timber, with an aggregate lift of 123 feet. 
' By a recent survey, a canal from Syracuse through 
Homer to Binghampion, on the Susquehannah, has been 
pronounced practicable. Syracuse Weigh-Lock. (Sec 
p. 52.> 

SALINA ' 

Is situated a mile and a half north irom this place, 
and should not be passed by unnoticed. A small but 
[convenient little packet boat is continually plying 
I between the two places, drawn by a single horse, and 
passes by many salt manufactories, built on both sides 
!v>f the c^n?.l. The mrrda of eyaDoration £fener?jlv 
I G- " "" ' 



«0 ROUrn TO .MAGAK-\ 

adopted here, is that of boihng ; and a hi'wi aescij{j|iui 
will convey a clear idea of the process. Eachbuildin'^: 
contains sixteen or eig^iiteen large iron kettles, of 120 
c^allons each, which are placed in two rows, forming 
what is called " a block." They stand about thret 
feet higher than the floor ; and under them is a largt 
furnace, which is heated with pine wood, and requires 
constant attention to keep the water always boiling. 
The water is drawn froni a large reservoir at one end 
of the building, after having been allowed to stand 
awhile and deposite the impurities it has brought along 
with it. A hollow log, with a pump at one end, and 
furnished with openings against the kettles, is the only 
machine used in filling them. The first deposite made 
by the water after the boiling commences, is a com- 
pound of several substances, and is thrown away, 
under the name of " Bittern ;" but the pure white salt, 
which soon after makes its appearance, is carefully 
removed, and placed in a store-room just at hand., 
ready for barrelling and the market. 

Each manufactory yields about 40 bushels a day, 
and the different buildings cost about half a million. 

There are two large manufactories here, where salt 
is made in reservoirs of an immense size, and evapo- 
lated by hot air passing through them in large pipes. 
The reservoir of the principal one contains no less than 
40,000 gallons. The pipe is suj^plied with heat by a 
furnace below, and the salt is formed in large loose 
masses, resembling half-thawed ice. The crystali- 
nation also is different from that produced by the othei 
modes, at least in secondary forms. 

The village of Salina is of considerable size and a 
flourishing appearance, considering the shortness oi 
the time since it began to be built, and the serious 
obstacles it has had to encounter in the unhealthinesb 
of its situation. In 1825, it contained 1000 inhabitants ; 
the village of Geddes, 520 ; and Liverpool, 375. The 
extensive marshes which bound it on the west are ex- 
tremely unwholeseme during the ^varmei; ?ea'?ons o- 



SALINA SALT W0Klv6'. i 1 

'he year, and the -whole nei^^hbourliood is iiiore orles? 
■'infected with the fever and ng-ue : that terrible scourge, 
which has retarded so much the settlennent of many 
?parts of this western country. Since the marshes have 
'been partially cleared and drained, the disease has 
been greatly diminished ; and it is hoped that time 
and industry will reduce its ravages still further, if not 
entirely eradicate it. 

The branch canal which runs through this village, 
j5 applied to other valuable purposes besides those of 
transportation. A sluice which draws off a portion of 
ihe water towards the marshes and the lake, is made 
!o turn several mill-wheels in its course. A forcing 
pump raises the water of the salt spring destined to 
-'ippl}^ the manufactories here and at Sj^racuse ; and a 
Jarge open frame building shows the spot from which 
all the kettles and the pans of both these places derive 
their supplies : that for the latter being elevated to the 
height of 70 {eeU and the pump being able to raise 
120,000 gallons in 24 hours. 

The Salt Spring itself will be viewed as a curiosity, 
but in its present state presents no very remarkable ap- 
pearance, as there is little commotion visible on the 
surface, and the source would seem by no means equal to 
the great draughts which are continually made upon it. 
The Lake will be seen at the distance of about a 
J mile. It is six miles long and two broad, and must 
j receive a considerable quantity of salt water from the 
' draining- of the marshes, as its banks are covered with 
i' saline plants. The valley is surrounded by limestone 
hills, with petrifactions ; and gypsum is found in great 
J quantities. 

" Tlie American Salt Formation,'''' says Dr. Van Rens- 
selaer in his 'Essay,' "extends over the continent from 
the AUeghanies to the Pacific, between 31° and 45° 
I H. lat. In this immense tract, rock salt has been 
' occasionally found ; but its locality is more generally 
j pointed out by brine springs." The salt springs in 
' 'hi'^ '^tafo are in the rountips of Onondaga, Cayuga* 



tt* "KOtTE TO ]N"IAGAUA. 

Seneca, Ontario, Niagara, Genesee, Toffipkia-;, 
Wayne, and Oneida ; but this is the most valuable oft 
various accounts. In 1828 there were 1,1 60,888 bulheis; 
inspected ; and in 1829, 1,291,820 bushels, showing an 
increase of 130,932 bushels. 

Of this, 745,741 bushels were inspected at Salina, 
229,317 at Syracuse, 187,540 at Liverpool, and 129,22^ 
at Geddes. 

The number of manufactories was increased during 
the past year, notwithstanding the reduction in the 
price of salt ; and the quality of the brine has been 
improved and the quantity increased by means of 
perforations into the earth, to the depth of about sixty 
icet, so that the assurance is given of a supply to the 
Mtmost that will probably ever become necessar3^ 

FROM SYRACUSE TO ROCHESTER. 

As the traveller is supposed to go to Rochester by 
ihe canal, the description of places on tlie Turnpike 
is omitted until we reach that part of the country on 
the return from Buffalo. 

By the rMnal, 9^ miles. Weed's Basin 26 m. — A 
coach to Auburn, 8 miles for 50 cents. 11m. Mon- 
tezuma Salt Works. Here begin the Cayuga Marshes. 
The canal across the marshes was constructed at a vast 
expense. 35 m. Palmyra. Coach to Canandaigua, 
13 m. for 75 cents. The Great Embankment at 
Victor, 72 feet high, extending 2 miles. 

Antiquities. In the tov^ns of Onondaga, Camillus, 
and Pompey, are the remains of ancient villages and 
forts, of which a description will be found in Yates 
and Moulton's new History of the State, vol. i. p. 13. 
in Pompey the form of a triangular enclosure is visible, 
^vith the remains of something like circular or ellip- 
tical forts at the corners, 8 miles apart, the whole 
including more than 500 acres. De VVitt Clinton, 
bte Governor of this state, in his memoir, read in 1817, 
before the Lit. and Phil. Societv. think* thepbcewai* 



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iNH:: 



liO(!JIESTEK. --4 3 

stormed on the north line. See also North American 
Review. 

In Camillus is an elliptical fort on a high hill, three 
acres in extent, with a covered way, 10 rods long:, to a 
jspring on the west, and a gate towards the east. An- 
'other is on a less elevation half a mile off, and half as 
large. Sculls, pottery, and bits of brick used to be 
jpicked up in these places. (There is a bed of Coal 
I in Onondaga.) 

j ROCHESTER 

I fs the largest and most flourishing place in this part 
of the state, being indeed the fourth in the state in 
point of numbers, the township containing, in 1827, 
10,818. It has several good inns, one of the best of 
which is the "Coffee House," near the canal bridge. 
It is situated on the west side of the Genesee river, at 

' the upper falls, where it is crossed by the canal ; and 
enjoys the finest advantages for water-mills of all 
kinds, from the convenient and abundant supply ob- 
tained from the falls. Stage Coaches go hence, daily, 
to Buffalo through Batavia ; three daily to Canan- 
daigua ; one daily to Niagara falls by Lockport and 
Lewiston, &c. &.c. 

Rochester was first surveyed into lots in the year 
1811, the first settlement made in 1812, and it was not 
until the latter part of the year 1814, that any consider- 
able addition was made to the number of inhabitants. 
In September, 1818, the village contained 1049 inhabit- 
ants ; in August, 1820, 1502; in September, 1822, 

I 3130, (which included labourers on the public works ; 
(he permanent population at that time was estimated 
at about 2700) In 1824, 4274; in 1825, 5271 ; and 
in 1827, 10,818. 

There are some fine dwellings, an arcade, a court 
house, jail, market, 13 large flour mills of stone, which 
can make 342,000 barrels of flour annually. There 
are 52 nm of stones in all. About 9 million feet of 



74 ROUTE TO ZvlAGARA. 

lumber are sawed here in a year; and 5 riiiiiiuii!:- 
brought down the river. There is a cotton factor3% 
ivith"l400 spindles and 30 power looms, and a woollen 
factoiy ; three bridges over the Genesee, 8 canal 
basins, two dry docks, &c. The Broadway bridge, 
600 feet long, is a few yards above the aqueduct. 

There is an eye and ear infirmary, a bank, a High 
School, and 6 meeting-houses for Episcopalians, Pres- 
byterians, Methodists, Friends, and Catholics. 

The w^ater power belonging to this village and the 
vicinity is equal to the power of 38,400 horses ; or, 
1,920 steam engines of 20 horse power each. There- 
fore the water power is worth (computing the cost of 
such engines, as in England, at $8,800 each ; and the 
annual expense of working at 222 dollars for each 
horse power,) almost ten millions annually. Only a 
small part of it is yet used. The whole river supplies 
20,000 cubic feet a minute ; and the combined height 
of the falls at Rochester and Carthage is about 280 
feet. A fall of 12J- cubic feet of water in a minute, 20 
feet is equal to the power of one horse. 

The proposed canal from Genesee river to Oleanon 
the Alleghany, would be about 110 miles long, and 
cost, as is estimated, about $1,320,000. It would open 
a valuable trade with the upper valley of the Ohio, 
and much increase the value of tlie land. 

The Aqueduct over the Genesee is one of the finest 
works on the course of the canal, and is no less remark- 
able for its usefulness than for its architectural beauty 
and strength. It is borne across the river's channel, 
on ten arches of hewn stone. The river dashes rapidly 
along beneath, while boats, with goods and passengers, 
glide safely above. 

A feeder enters the canal on the east side of the 
river, where sluices are also constructed for llie supply 
of the numerous manufactories built on the bank. All 
that part of the canal west from Rochester, is supplied 
with water from the Tonawanta creek. Other sluices 
irsi also dna: on the west f^ide. where vci'^ryv other rt\\lh 



fAllTIIAGK. 'to 

aie io ue seen. The streets ot' the tovvii are hancV 
somely and regularly laid out, and several of them are^ 
very well built with store and dwelling-houses of 
brick and stone, and well flagged on the side-walks. 

Falls. There is a fail in the Genesee of about 90 
feet, at the northern extremity of the town, another 
near it ]^ and a fine one at Carthage, which, with the 
truly impressive scenery of the banks, is worthy of 
particular attention. To vary the ride, it is recom- 
mended to the stranger to go down on one side of the 
river, and after viewing the cataract, cross the bridge 
a little above, and return on the other. 

The Lake Ontario Steamboat touches at Port Ge- 
nesee, at the mouth of the river, on its way to Niaga,ra 
and to Ogdensburgh — the route to Montreal, 

Carthage. The fall here is very suddeo, though 
not in a single precipice. The descent is 70 feet in a 
i'ew yards. The cataract has evidently been retiring 
for ages, as the deep gulf below the falls, with its high, 
perpendicular and ragged banks, is sufficient testimony ; 
and the seclusion of the place, the solemn and sublime 
effect of the scenery, redoubled by the roaring of the 
cataract, combine to render it one of the most inipres- 
sive scenes in this part of the country. The precipices 
are walls of secondary rocks, presenting their natural 
stratification, and descending from the surrounding 
level, to a depth of about tv/o hundred feet. A singular 
vein of whitish stone will be observed, cutting them 
horizontally, and disappearing at the brink of the falls, 
which it has kept at their present position : its superior 
hardness, evidently resisting the action of the water 
for a much longer time ; and probably rendering the 
descent more perpendicular than it would otherwise he. 
The rocks are overhung with thick forest trees, which, 
in some places, have been able to find a narrow fooling 
along the sides. 

One of the boldest single fabrics that art has evej 

« At Uii^fsiU Ihe noted Jeaper, Sam Patch, met his deaUi ui 1820. Ue 
?p!;r!r>g frtm) -i :^trrjre fi.c;ir 'h? f'n>. and ri-^vor r^s^'.^?^.i,M. 



,t> r()i;,j:.k yo mag a k a. 

?ucce.s>fiiliy atlrmptefl in this country, now slioAVb a 
few of its remains in this place. The two great piles 
of timber which stand opposite each other on the 
narrow level, where once the river flowed, are the 
abutments of a bridge thrown over a few years ago. 
It was 400 feet in length, and 250 above the water; 
but stood only a short time, and then fell with a tre- 
mendous crash, by its own weight. Fortunately, no 
person was crossing it at the time — a lady and gentle- 
man had just before passed, and safely reached the 
other side. 

On account of the obstructions at the falls, navigation 
is entirely interrupted here ; and ail the communication 
])etween the banks of the Genesee, as well as the canal, 
and Lake Ontario, is through Carthage. Merchandise 
is raised up the bank, or lowered down, by means of 
an inclined plane, very steep, where the descending 
weight is made to raise a lighter one by its superior 
gravity. 

This obstacle will cause a great deal of merchandise 
to pass through the Oswego canal. 

ROAD FROM ROCHESTER TO NIAGARA 
FALLS, 87 miles. 

To Carlhnge Falls 2 

Parma 9 

Clarkson* 7 

Hart I and 14 

Sandy Creek 7 

The principal objects on this road are, the Ridge, 
Lewiston, on rv^iagara river, and the Tuscarora Village. 

iv Ilrtlloy Village, Q5 miles west of Rochester, is 12 iniios distant from 
the suiplmric acid spring in Byron. Professor Eaton mentions this as 
the only Known instance of n'spring containing sulphuric acid in the 
world, with the exception of one in the ancient crater of Mount Idienne 
in Java. The editor ot the .Tournal, however, mentions another, spoken 
of by Ilumholdt, the lUode Vinaere, or Vinegar river, flowing from the 
extinct volcano of Purai'p, near Popayan, in the waters of which fish 
will mn live, and llie sprav of whir^ irritates and fnflames the eyes of 
naveHflrs- 



To Gaines 


A 


Oak Orchard 


7 


Cambria 


11 


Lewiston 


15 


Niagara Falls " 


7 



I liOOfcrORT. i i 

Niagara Village will be seen if you do not cross into 
Canada at Levviston ; and Queenstown if you do. 
Lockport should, by all means, be visited. 

The Ridge is a remarkable elevation, of little height, 
md for the most part very narrow, extending a great 
part of the distance from Rochester to Lewiston. It 
is often perfectly level for several miles, and affords an 
idmirable foundation for the road, which has, in conse- 
ijuence, been laid along its top. The manner in which 
his singular elevation could have been made, has ex- 
:ited the speculations of many curious observers of 
jiature, and been explained in different ways. Some 
I-iave imagined that the ridge was, at some long past 
period, the shore of Lake Ontario, and was thrown up 
>y its waves ; but it is extremely difficult to understand 
aovv the waves could have managed to barricade 
,hemselv^s out of a tract of countr)'. It therefore 
-reems more rational to adopt another theory : that the 
.ake was formerly still more extensive than is here 
Kiipposed, and overflowed the land some distance 
j'OUthward of this place, when a current might easily 
'jave produced a bar parallel to the shore, which, 
kvhen left dry, might present the form of the ridge. 
I The ground presents a slope on each side of the 
ipatb, peculiarly well adapted for home lots, gardens, 
^nd orchards ; and the frequency and facility of trans- 
portation ffive the inhabitants very manifest advantages. 
j Some well-built, and even handsome, houses w ill be 
' observed, which are still few indeed, but show that a 
^ood style has actually been introduced. 

Gasport, 6| miles east of Lockport, derives its name 
from the carburetted hydrogen gas which rises in the 
basin of the canal. 

LOCKPORT. 

This is one of the interesting places on the canal. 
Here is the noblest display of locks, two ranges, made 
:»f fJne hr'v:\^ «tnrie, lieinsT car!«trncted asri.in^t the brow 



•78 iiOun: TO .MAG AH A. 

f)f the Mountain Ridscp. Avbere the Ibaming- of thv. 
Traste \va(nr, the noi?e of liorns, and the bustle of occu- 
pntion excite many lively feelings. Above the locks, 
the Deep Cut offers a singular passage between high 
walls of rocks. 

Lockport is one of the most advantageous sites for 
machinery on the canal, as all the water passes down 
the mountain ridge, which the canal requires, for an 
extent of 135 miles ; Tonawanta creek being the only 
feeder from Buffalo to the Seneca river. It is brought 
down by passing round the double locks, and falls 55 
feet into a large natural basin, where two ranges of 
overshot wheels may be built, each at least 25 feet in 
<liameter. A little water is sufiicient to turn wheels 
of this description. The rocks are blasted out to a 
depth of 60 feet. Within a few years, the spot has 
])een changed from a wilderness to a village of 2,300 
inhabitants. It is 65 miles to Rochester, and 27 to 
JBuffalo. 

Minerals. The rocky stratum is a carbonate of 
lime, containing organic remains; encrinites, enchro- 
cites, &c. &c. crystals of carb. lime ; rhomboidal, dog- 
tooth spar, 12 sided ; fluate of lime ; beautiful crystals 
of sulphate of lime ; sulph. of strontian ; pyrites ; 
sulphuret of zinc ; sulphuret of lead. Collections of 
minerals may be purchased here. The Tuscarora 
reservation is an oblong tract of land reaching within a 
mile of Lewiston. They emigrated from North Caro- 
lina, near the beginning of the last century, at an invi- 
tation from the Five Nations, and were admitted on 
equal terms into their confederacy, which has since 
received the name of the Six Nations. They have 
had a clergyman settled amono; them for many years, 
and Christianity has been voluntarily adopted by them. 
Their village has some handsome and well-cultivatod 
farms, a.nd a house built for public worship. 



i.i;v,.i,"dToA". VJ 



HINTS TO THE TRAVELLER i.T 
LEVYISTON. 

It will be the intention of many strangers v\'li6 arrive 
;u this place, to devote several days lo viewing the 
Falls of Niagara, the battle grounds in the vicinity, and 
perhaps in making short excursions in different direc- 
tions. To those who have leisure, such a course may 
^vell be recommended ; and it may almost be a matter 
of indifference whether they first visit the American 
or the British side. The public accommodations are 
excellent at both places, and the river may be safely 
crossed at any hour of the day, by a ferry, at the 
expense of about half a dollar, incluaing the Iranspor- 
lation of luggage down and up the steep banks. A 
staircase is erected near the falls, on the British as 
well as the American side, to furnish a convenient 
mode of descending to tiie foot of the cataract, where 
the charge is 25 cents for each person. During the 
pleasant seasons of the year, both places are the resort 
of great throngs of visiters. Stage coaches also pass 
up and down on both sides ever}'- day at equal rates.. 

To such, however, as have but a short time to spend 
in this neighbourhood, it may be strongly recommended 
to proceed directly to the British side. The cataract 
on that side is higher, broader, more unbroken, and 
generally acknowledged to be the noblest part of the 
scene. The visiter may indeed see it to great advan- 
tage from Goat Island, on the American side, but the 
view from Ta})le Rock ought by no means to be neg- 
lected. The finest view from the level of tlie water 
below is also afforded on the west sidj;-. 



'6iJ iALL6 Ui' AlAO'AKA, 



I'lIE FALLS OF NiAGAKA— ;/7^o//i liie Atnencci 
side. 

The Hotels are large buildings, and very well kept 
by Mr. Wliitne3% and commodious. 

The height of the fall on this side is 160 feet per- 
pendicular, but somewhat broken in several places by 
the projecting rocks. It extends 300 yards to a rock 
•which interrupts it on the brow of the precipice. 
A narrow sheet appears beyond it, and then comes 
Goat Island, with a mural precipice. Between this 
and the other shore is the Grand Crescent, for which 
see a few pag^s beyond. There is a bridge to the 
island, which commands many fine views of the falls. 
It rests on wooden piers sunk with stones. 

Tlie Staircase conducts safely to the bottom of the , 
precipice ; and boats may row up near to the cataract. \ 

The Sorcererh Cave. — A very singular cavern was 
discovered, in 1825, about half a mile below the falls, 
v/hich is reached by descending the old Indian ladder, 
a steep path-way, rendered passable by roots, rocks, 
&c. The cave is about GO yards below the ladder. 
The way to it is difficult ; the passage is barely large 
enough to admit a man, and in it are found stalactites, 
and specimens of something that seems like petrified 
moss or wood. About 20 feet above is a beautiful 
spring, issuing from a rock, in a singular rock};; posi- 
tion ; and there is another cave near by, which is also 
%vortliy of a visit. 

About two miles below the falls, is a Mineral Spring, 
said to contain sulphuric and muriatic acids, lime, and 
magnesia. 

There is a ferry at Lewiston, which is about half a 
mile across ; but the current is strong on this side, and 
the eddy sets up with such force on the other, that a 
boat moves more than double that distance in going 
oi-*»r. The passage i? wk dangerou-, althovgh tbp> 



HAT'lLE UF Ul/iiti^iiTOAVN. 81 

Vv-alei' is inuch agitated by counter currents and 
changing- whirlpools ; for the ferrymen are taught by 
their experience to manage the boat with care, and 
not only to take advantage of the currents, but to avoid 
all the rough places, ripples, and whirlpools. The 
banks here have an appearance very wild and striking. 

The rocks are a dark red sandstone, with thin 
?trata of a more clayey character and a lighter colour, 
Dccurring every few feet. 

Quee7isiorv7i, on the Canada side of the river, is a 
?mall town, uninteresting except so far as regards its 
natural situation, and some martial events of which it 
las been the theatre. 

THE BATTLE OF QUEENStOWN. 

During the late war between the United States and 

jreat Britain, in 1812, while Gen. Van Rensselaer 

vvas stationed at Lewislon, he formed the bold design 

i)f taking Queenstown; and in spite of the difficulty 

pf ascending the steep banks, and the fortifications 

uvhich had been thrown up for its defence, before day- 

ight on the morning of October 13th, he embarked 

jis troops at the ferry, and passed over the river under 

I :over of a battery. As the accessible points on the 

j .oast were strictly watched, and defended by batteries 

3)f some strength, the place selected for the attack was 

jhe lofty and precipitous bank just above. Two or 

hree small batteries had been erected on the brow, 

, he remains of which are still visible; but this did 

lot discourage the undertaking. The landing was 

,; effected, and in spite of the difficulty of the ascent, 

i he heights were surmounted, and the Americans com- 

sienced a brisk action on the summit. Gen. Brock, 

vho was at a distance, hearing the guns, hastened to 

■ he spot ; but under a tree near the precipice was 

lilled by a chance shot. The Americans remained in 

:)ossession of the heights a few hours, but were then 

pbllared to recross the river. 

H 



o.w FALLS uj AiAl.AlLV. 

The MorvU3iENT to General Beock 

Was raised by the British government in the yeai^ 
1824; and the remains of Gen. Brock and Col. M'Do- 
Jiald, his aid, have since been deposited there. Its 
height is 126 feet ; and the view from the top is very 
fine and extensive, the base being 350 feet above the 
river. In clear weather, the eye embraces not only 
the river below, and the towns ot Lew iston and Queens- 
town, but those of Newark and Fort Niagara, at tlie 
entrance of Lake Ontario, York harbour, Youngstown^ 
part of the route of the Welland canal, a vast level 
tract of country covered with a uniform forest, and the 
horizon, formed by the distant lake itself. 

The monument is built of a coarse gray limestone, 
containing enchrinites, &c. of which the hill is formed, 
and contains some shells and other organic remains. 
The old park for artillerj', and the marks of various 
works, will be observed in different parts of the 
heights. 

From Queenstonm to Niagara Falls is seven miles^ 
over a level, sandy road. 

The country between Niagara and York, U. C, is 
considered the most beautiful, most fertile, and best 
cultivated part of the province. It will therefore be 
worthy of the traveller's attention, as soon as the 
desired improvements and accommodations shall have 
been introduced. The scenery is allerriately wild and 
pleasing ; and the rapid progress of population, the 
arts, and business created by the Welland canal and 
its collateral works, which promise such success, v^W 
soon render this tract of country a favourite part of 
the tour of the northern traveller. A free navigation 
for the largest vessels used here, between Lake Erie 
and Ontario, must produce the most important results. 
Manufactories are already in operation in different 
places; and the inexhaustible water power of the 
canal will multiply them to any desirable degree. 
40.000 or 5O,O0Oib<5. of raw wool are iinw anuualJv 



PALLS (•r .MAaAK-\. So 

ounsunicd in this j'eii:ion by the manufactunjis of iiarro^v 
doth and satinetts ; ana most of the paper used in 
Upper Canada is made at Crook's Mil), in West 
Flamborougrh. 

Ancient Tumuli. Near Sir P. Maitland's (four miles 
from Queenstown) is a rano:e of rising ground, which 
overlooks the country and lake for a great distance. 
Near the top a quantity of human bones were recently 
discovered by the blowing down of an old tree. A 
great number of skeletons were found on digging, with 
Indian beads, pipes, &c. and some conch-shells, shaped 
apparently for musical instruments, placed under seve- 
ral of the heads. Other perforated shells were found, 
such as are said to be known only on the western coast 
of the continent, within the tropics. There were also 
found brass or copper utensils, &c. and the ground 
looks as if it had been defended with a palisade. 

The Whirlpool, sometimes called the Devil's Hole, 
cannot be seen without leaving the road and going to 
the bank. The rocks are about 260 feet above the 
water ; they form a deep basin, and the water is ex- 
tremely agitated. 

A leisurely walk the whole distance, near the river, 
may please the admirer of nature ; as the high and 
rocky cliffs which form the banks on both sides pre- 
:ent a continued succession of striking scenes. 

Although the surface of the ground frequently indi- 
■;ates the passage of water in some long past period, 
the whole road is much elevated above the river, and 
Dwing to this circumstance the traveller is disappointed 
at not getting a sight of the cataract from a distance, as 
it remains concealed by the banks, until he has ap- 
proached very near. It frequently happens, also, that 
he roar of the cataract is not perceived before reaching 
he inn ; for the intervening bank intercepts the sound 
•o much, that the noise of the wheels is sometimes 
sufficient to drown it entirely. Yet, strange as it ma3' 
appear, the inhabitants declare, that at the same time 
it may very probably be heard on the shore of Lake 
Ontario, 



JALl.S OF >rAUAE-A. 



THE FALLS OF SlAGAHA-^from the British sidg. 

There are two large In7is or Hotels on the Canadian 
side of the river, both situated as near the falls as 
could be desired. That kept by Mr. Forsyth stands 
on what ought strictly to be called the upper hank, for 
that elevation appears to have once formed the river's 
shore. This is the larger house ; the galleries and 
windows in the rear command a fine view of the 
cataract, although not an entire one, and overlook the 
rapids and river for several miles above. The other 
house is also commodious, and commands the same 
scene from a different point of view. 

Follov\'ing a footpath through the pasture behind 
Forsyth's, the stranger soon finds himself on the steep 
brow of the second bank, and the mighty cataract of 
Niagara suddenly opens beneath him. A path leads 
away to the left, down the bank, to the verge of the 
cataract ; and another to the right, which offers a 
drier walk, and presents a more agreeable and varied 
scene. 

The surface of the rocks is so perfectly flat near the 
falls, and the water descends so considerably over the 
rapids just before it reaches the precipice, that it seems 
a wonder that the place where you stand is not over- 
flown. Probably the water is restrained only by the 
direction of the current, as a little lateral pressure 
would be sufficient to flood the elevated level beside 
it, where, there can be no question, the course of the 
iiver once laj^ 

Table Rock is a projection a few yards from the 
cataract, which commands a fine view of this mag- 
nificent scene. Indeed, it is usually considered the 
finest point of view. The height of the tall on this 
side is said to be 174 feet perpendicular; and this 
height the vast sheet of foam preserves unbroken, 
quile round the Grand Crescent, a distance, it is esti- 
mated, of 700 yards. Captain Basil Hall and Mr. 



iALL.s OF NIAGAIU. 85 

I Thompson measured the distance from Table Rock to 
Termination Rock in 1827, and found it to be 153 feet, 
f Groat Island divides the cataract, and just beyond it 
jptands an isolated rock. The fail on the American 
dde is neither so high, so wide, nor so unbroken ; yet, 
iif compared with any thing- else but the Crescent, 
Would be regarded with emotions of unequalled 
■publimity. The breadth is 900 feet, the height 160, 
ijind about two-thirds the distance to the bottom the 
jj^heet is broken by projecting rocks. A bridge built 
ifrom the American side connects Iris or Goat Island 
^ind the main land, though invisible from this spot ; and 
he inn on the same side, in Niagara, is seen a little 
l.vay from the river. The Biddle Staircase was con- 
'tructed from Iris Island to the base of the precipice 
nelow, in 1829, at the expense of Nicholas Biddle 
";Ssq. of Philadelphia, to afford a new point of view to 
i visiters, which is greatly admired. The construction 
})f this staircase is said to have opened one of the. 
Iinest fishing places in this part of the Union. The 
Kvater there is the resort of numerous fish which come 
ip from Lake Ontario and are stopped b^ the falls. 
The island is 185 feet above the gulf; the first 40 feet 
)f the descent is by stone steps, the next 88 by a 
;piral Avooden staircase, and the remaining 80 feet by 
|ione steps, in three directions. 

j It may be recommended to the traveller to visit this 
|>lace as often as he can, and to view it from every 
leighbourino: point ; as every change of light exhibits 
t under a different and interesting aspect. The rain- 
bows are to be seen, from this side, only in the after- 
noon ; but at that time the clouds of mist, which are 
^.ontinually rising from the gulf below, often present 
hem in the utmost beauty. ' 

Dr. Dwight gives the following estimates, in his 
ravels, of the quantity of water which passes the 
:ataract of Niagara. The river at the ferry is 7 fur- 
ongs wide, and on an average 25 feet deep. The 
current probably runs six miles an hour : but supposing- 
H2 



OG FALLS OF 2SIAGARA. 

it to be only 5 miles, the quantity that passes the laJJs 
in an hour, is more than 85 millions of tons avoirdupois ; 
if we suppose it to be 6, it will be more than 102 
millions ; and in a day would be 2400 millions of tons. 
The noise, it is said, is sometimes heard at York, 50 
miles. 
A carriage road has been lately made to the ferry. 

The Rapids 

begin about half a mile above the cataract; and, 
althoufich the breadth of the river might at first make 
them appear of little importance, a nearer inspectioii 
will convince the stranger of their actual size, and the 
terrific danger of the passage. The inhabitants of 
the neighbourhood regard it as certain death to get 
once involved in them ; and that not merely because 
all escape from the cataract would be hopeless, but 
because the violent force of the water among the rock.> 
in the channel, would instantly dash the bones of a man 
in pieces. Instances are on record of persons being- 
carried down by the stream ; but no one is known to 
have ever survived. Indeed, it is very rare that the 
bodies are found ; as the depth of the gulf below the 
cataract, and the tumultuous agitation of the eddies, 
whirlpools, and counter currents, render it difficult for 
any thing once sunk to rise again ; while the general 
course of the water is so rapid, that it is soon hurried 
far down the stream. The large logs which are 
brought down in great numbers during the spring, bear 
sufficient testimony to these remarks. Wild ducks, 
geese, &c. are frequently precipitated over the cataract, 
and generally reappear either dead or with their legs 
or wings broken. Some say that water fowl avoid the 
place when able to escape, but that the ice on the 
shores of the river above often prevents them from 
obtaining food, and that they are carried down from 
mere inability to fly ; while others assert that they are 
sometinnes se.en voluntarily riding among the rapids,. 




>-l A (tAZR A, T3t D^L 10.1. (WV 



:ind after descending halt" waj'- down the cataract, 
[caking wing, and returning to repeat their dangerous 
! amusement. In 1828, a small boat passed in safety 
I imong the islands below the bridge on the United 
\ States' side ; but in October of that year, two nien 
jivere lost in a boat which was carried down by the 
ice. 

The most sublime scene is presented to the observer 
when he views the cataract from below ; and there he 
may have an opportunity of going under the cataract. 
This scene is represented in the plate. To render 
he descent practicable, a spiral staircase has been 
brmed a little way from Table Rock, supported by a 
^all mast; and the stranger descends without fear, 
because his view is confined. On reaching the bottom, 
1 rough path among the rocks winds alon^ at the foot 
3f the precipice, although the heaps of loose stones 
ivhich have fallen down, keep it at a considerable 
leight above the water. A large rock lies on the 
'rery brink of the river, about 15 feet long and 8 feet 
*hick, which you may climb up by means of a ladder, 
ind enjoy the best central view ot the falls any where 
to be found. This rock was formerly a part of the 
projection above, and fell, about seven years ago, with 
1 tremendous roar. It had been observed by Mr. 
?'orsyth to be in a very precarious situation, the day 
llbefore, and he had warned the strangers at his house 
not to venture near it. A lady and gentleman, however, 
iiad been so bold as to take their stand upon it near 
' evening, to view the cataract ; and in the night they 
heard the noise of its fall, which shook the house like 
jan earthquake. A large piece of rock, near the centre 
of the great horseshoe of Niagara Falls, broke off in 
the summer of 1829, and fell into the gulf with a crash 
Ihat was heard several miles off. 

In proceeding nearer to the sheet of falling water, 

I the path leads far under the excavated bank, which in 

^ one place forms a roof that overhangs about 40 feet. 

The va?t column of water continually pouring over thf 



o^ FALLS OP iVIAGAliA. 

precipice, produces violent whirls in the air ; and the 
spray is driven out with such force, that no one can 
approach to the edge of the cataract, or even stand a 
few moments near it, without being drenched to the 
skin. It is also veiy difficult to breathe there ; so that 
persons with weak lungs would act prudently to con- 
tent themselves with a distant view, and by no means 
to attempt to go under the cataract. Those who are 
desirous of exploring this tremendous cavern, should 
attend very carefully to their steps, aqd not allow 
themselves to be agitated by the sight or the sound of 
the cataract, or to be blinded by the strong driving 
showers in which they will be continually involved ; 
as a few steps would plunge them into the terrible 
abyss which receives the falling river. 

In the summer of 1827, a schooner, called the Mi- 
chigan, which was found to be unfit for the navigation 
of Lake Erie, being of too great a depth of water, 
was towed by a steamboat to the end of Grand Island, 
and then by a row boat under the command of Capt. 
Rough, to the margin of the rapids, where she was 
abandoned to her fate. Thousands of persons had 
assembled to witness the descent. A number of wild 
animals had been inhumanly placed on her deck, 
confined, to pass the cataract with her. She passed 
the first fall of the rapids in safety ; but struck a rock 
at the second, and lost her masts. There she remained 
an instant, until the current turned her round and bore 
her away. A bear here leaped overboard and swam 
to the shore. The vessel soon filled and sunk, so that 
only her upper works were afterward visible. She 
went over the cataract almost without being seen, and 
in a iew moments the basin was perceived all scat- 
tered with her fragments, which were very small. A 
cat and a goose were the only animals found alive 
below. In October, 1829, the schooner Superior was 
towed into the current and abandoned ; but she strucfoj 
on a rock about the middle of the river, and there re- 
maim^d. The notable ium.per. Sam Patch, leaped. \h? 



IJATTLJ: uF CllLl'VEWS. oH 

ioilovviiio' day, from a ladder, 125 feet high, into the 
'gulf, and escaped unhurt. 

The Burning Spring. 

t 

I About half a mile above the falls, and within a few 
jfeet of the rapids in Niagara river, is a remarkable 
^Burning Spring. A house has been erected over it, 
iinto which admission is obtained for a shilling. The 
ivvater, which is warm, turbid, and surcharged with 
Isulphuretted hydrogen gas, rises in a barrel which has 
Ueen placed in the ground, and is constantly in a state 
jjf ebullition. The barrel is covered, and the gas 
i escapes only through a copper tube. On bringing a 
:andle within a little distance of it, the gas takes fire, 
md continues to burn with a bright flame until blovyn 
out. By leaving the house closed and the fire extin- 
j^uished, the whole atmosphere within explodes on 
Wintering with a candle. 

1 While on the Canada side of the falls, the visiter 
jnay vary his time very agreeably, by visiting the 
j .Milage of Chippewa and Lundy's Lane, in this vici- 
nity ; which, during the late war with Great Britain. 
jivere the scenes of two sharp contests. 

The Battle op CnirrEWA. 

] In July, 1814, the British and American armies 
heing near each other, Gen. Ripley ordered Gen. Scott 
) o make an advance on Chippewa, on the 3d of July, 
ivith Capt. Towson's division of artillery; and the 
\ enemy's pickets were soon forced to retire across the 
j bridge. Gen. Ripley came up in the afternoon and 

^ncamped with Gen. Scott's advance. 
The stranger may be gratified by examining the 

ield of these operations, by going to Chippewa vi!- 
1 age, about two miles above Forsyth's. The Ameri- 

::an encampment of July 23d is in the rear of a tavern 

lear the road, about a mile beyond Chippewa, 



'jO FALLS OF INIAGAKA. 

On the 5tb, after some sharp shooting, the Indians 
were discovered almost in the rear of the American 
camp. At this moment, Gen. Porter arrived with his 
volunteers and Indians. Gen. Brown immediately- 
directed them to enter the woods and eifectually scour 
them. Gens. Brown, Scott, and Ripley were at the 
white house, in advance, reconnoitring. Gen. Por- 
ter's corps had almost debouched from the woods 
opposite Chippewa, when the whole British force had 
crossed the Chippewa bridge, and Gen. Scott ad^- 
vanced, and Gen. Ripley was in readiness to support. 
In a few minutes, the British line was discovered formed 
and rapidly advancing — their right (the Royal Scots) 
upon the woods, and their left (the prince regent's) on 
the river, with the king's own for their reserve. Their 
object was to gain the bridge across the creek in front 
of the encampment, which, if done, would have com- 
pelled the Americans to retire. Gen. Brown, fearing 
a flank movement of the enemy through the woods on 
the left, directed Gen. Ripley not to advance until he 
gave him orders. Meanwhile, Gen. Scott, under a 
most tremendous fire from the enemy's artillery, 
crossed the bridge, and formed his line. The British 
orders were to give one volley at a distance, and im- 
mediately charge. But such was the warmth of our! 
musketry that they could not withstand it. At thisj 
moment, Gen. Brown sent orders to Gen. Ripley to 
make a movement through the woods upon the ene-*! 
my's right flank. With the 21st regiment he passed ? 
ravine in his front, where the men had to wade up U 
their chins, and advanced as rapidly as possible. Bui 
before he commenced filing from the woods into thf I 
open land under the enemy's batteries, they had beeii| 
completely broken by Gen. Scott's brigade, and threw 
themselves across the Chippewa bridge, which they 
broke down. 

Although the Americans were not able to cross the 
creek, the British thought proper to evacuate Chippewa 
very'precipitately. and to retrf^nt towards Qneensto\vn 



UATTLE Ol lIKlUGEWATiiK. 9 1 

, in this affair the British loss, in killed, wounded, and 
raiissing, was 514, and the Annerican loss 328. 
I Nothing of importance occurred after this until the 
\,25th of the same month, the date of 

T 

a The Battle of Bridge watek, or Lundy's 
' Lane. 

E| The principal scene of this hard-fought and bloody 
liction is about a mile from the Falls of Niagara, at an 
bbscure road, called Lundy's Lane. Comfortable 
jtccommodations are offered there, at the inn of Mr. 
physler. Since their retreat from Chippewa, the ene- 
]ny had received reinforcements of troops from Lord 
fVellington's army in Spain; and on the 25th of July 
,;ncamped on a hill, with the design of attacking the 
ilmerican camp the next morning. At 6 in the eve- 
jiing. Gen. Brown ordered Gen. Scott to advance and 
i ttack them, which was immediately done ; and in con- 
junction with Gen. Ripley the attack was commenced 
In an hour. The British were much surprised at see- 
ing the approach of their enemy at this hour, not 
'laving discovered them until they left the woods and 
*egan to march across the open level fields seen from 
■'orsyth's Hotel, and about a quarter of a mile to the 
^ft.^ 

The following letter, written by a surgeon of one 
f the American regiments, the day after the engage- 
fient, contains some interesting particulars: 

"The enemy had coiiected their whole force in the 
leninsula, and were reinforced by troops from Lord 
Vellington's army, just landed from Kingston. For 
wo hours the two hostile lines were within twenty 
ards of each other, and so frequently intermingled,, 
lat often an officer would order an enemy's platoon. 
:lie moon shone bright ; but part of our men being 
ressed like the Glengarian regiment caused the de- 
eption. They frequently charged, and were as often 
•riven back. Our resriraent, under Colonel Miller, wa:i 



'JU i ALLa Ol .MaGAKA. 

ordered to sLorm the British battery. We charged, aiK 
look ev ery piece of the enemy's cannon. We kept pos 
session of the ground and cannon until 12 o'clock a1 
night, when we all fell back more than two miles. 
This was done to secure our camp, which might 
otherwise have been attacked in the rear. Our horses 
being most of them killed, and there being no ropej- 
to the pieces, we got off but two or three. The men 
were so excessively fatigued they could not drag 
them. We lost one piece of cannon, which was toe 
much advanced, eveiy man being shot that had charge 
of it, but two. Several of our caissons were blown 
up by their rockets, which did some injury, and de- 
prived our cannon of ammunition. The lines were 
>:o near that cannon could not be used with advantage." 
The British lost, in killed, wounded, and prisoners.. 
• i78 ; and the Americans 860. 

WELLAND CANAL. 

it may well be recommended to the traveller to de- 
vote a little time to visiting this new, important and 
highly interesting work, which can be done by those 
^vho have a short time to spare. Lake vessels arc 
hereafter to go up the Welland or Chippewa river 
to the canal ; and the visiter at Niagara will be but 
nbout 8 or 10 miles from some parts of it. 

As it may be presumed that a traveller, on a tour 
like the present, will of course lay aside all private, 
and even national feelings, sufficiently to admire what 
is great in the enterprise and arts of a neighbouring 
country, a specimen of human skill and industry bke 
the Welland Canal may be expected to interest those 
into whose hands this little volume may fall. 

The improvement of Upper Canada has had to en- 
counter great obstacles in the climate, the wildness of 
the countiy, the vicinity of a land under a diflferent 
system of government, the large reserves of soil for 
the support of the clergy, (onp-!?evrnth ^^ the ^vhole.) 



,\ud a general want of intelligence and enterprise 
*imong the inhabitants. Some of these have been al- 
ready in a considerable degree surmounted, and are 
jkely to be still further overcome, by the encourage- 
joents oifered by the mother country, the introduction 
' f scientific engineers and funds by the Canada Com- 
,)an3^ and the unexpected facilities afforded to schemes 
jif internal improvement by the natural features of thf^ 
j?rovince, 

J The obstacle which it was the object of the Weh 
■ and Canal to surmount, is of a character that gives 
rreat interest to the work. The largest cataract in 
he world, which presents a scene of confusion, uproar^ 
!nd tumult, that sets at nought all the rules of order 
nd restraint, was to be surmounted by a system of 
vorks in which the rush of the element, so awful, re- 
'istless, and destructive, was to be curbed and tamed 
o a calm and gentle descent, and rendered useful to 
he objects of commerce. 
From this tremendous and destructive cataract a 

,|)ortion of power was to be drawn away, insignificant 
ndeed, but sufficient for the necessities of thousands 
if men ; and " divided and conquered," reduced to 
he servitude of our race, rendered subservient to the 
.'omplicated arts of civilization, and compelled to 
Perform the most tiresome and trifling tasks in all their 

iietails. 

The Welland Canal begirds near the mouth of Grand 
iiver, which empties into Lake Erie, about 40 miles 
roni Buffalo. It will admit the largest vessels on the 

Jakes, viz. those of 125 tons. It was first opened to 

' lavigation in November, 1829, precisely five years after 
ts commencement. The work begins at Fort Mait- 
and on Grand River, about 40 miles from Buffalo, 
.vhere it is raised eight feet above the level of Lake 
Elrie, and proceeds, with only descending locks, to Port 

; Dalhousie, the water being taken trcm Grand River. 

i ibove a dam erected for the purpose, at the falls, five 

1'.iilpc: from its mouth, Travell^'r' who have it m ihr^h 
? 



94 J-ALLS yji AlAUAliA- 

power should not fail to begin their voyag;e here, at.' 
the whole work is worthy of attention ; but the lower 
half of it presents the chief assemblage of interesting 
objects. 

The whole canal was nearly completed about the 
beginning of 1829, when the sliding of the banks at 
the Deep Cut, near Lake Ontario, made it necessary 
to make some alterations in the plan. From Lake 
Erie, across the Wainfleet Marsh, to the Welland or 
Chippewa River, the level of that lake was at first 
presejved. It has since been raised five feet. The 
Welland was to be communicated with by means of 
two locks of six feet lift, and to serve as a part of the 
navigable route for nine miles, to within three-quarters 
of a mile of the Deep Cut. The Deep Cut was to 
have been dug down to the level of the Welland ; and 
the excavations had already been nearly completed 
when the accident occuired. The canal is now car- 
ried across the mr.rsh at a level five feet above that of 
Lake Erie, to Welland River at a point five miles and 
a half below the place before designed ; across that 
river on an aqueduct, which is high enough to permit 
the passage of vessels ; and then along the northern 
bank, to the Deep Cut, at the northern end of which 
it descends by two locks. Beyond that point the ori- 
ginal plan is preserved. 

The Grand River, at the dam, is nine chains across; 
and the canal beginning at Broad Creek,near its mouth, 
and two miles from the uiouth of Grand River, proceeds 
in a perfectl)' straight line ; and a communication is 
open with VVelland River by locks, at the aqueduct 
and at the Deep Cut. 

Port Mail! and is capable of receiving a great 
number of vessels such as navigate the Lake, for 
which the Canal is calculated. The neighbouring 
part of the lake is free from ice earlier in the spiing 
than that near Buflalo ; and it is believed by the Ca- 
nadians, that the access to the mouth of the Welland; 
c^nal will be open about four or fivp weeks earlieir 



WELLAxND CAkaL. 95 

.iveiy year. This of course would be a great advan- 
age. It is not, however, to be expected that the New- 
Tork Canal will suffer any injury from the present 
vorii. The business will soon be greater than can be 
Jlone upon it; and will increase with great rapidity, 
^particularly after the opening of the Ohio Canal. 
^ Mainfleet Marsh. This is a tract of s<vampy land, 
ijilevated only about eight feet above the level of Lake 
Erie, and extending from ■ ^ shore to Welland or 
Chippewa river. The canal passes it by a thorough 
:ut ten miles long, and varying from ten to sixteen 
i^eet in depth, communicating with many ponds and 
^oools. This is the depth designed to cut this part of 
Jlhe canal, since it was determined, in 1828, to dravy 
i:he supply from Grand River, and raise the summit 
pievel several feet, on account of the caving in at the 
jDeep Cut. It is a fact well established by scientific 
I surveyors, that only a narrow ledge of rocks occurs 
j between the two lakes, and that, if this were removed, 
, the soil is generally of so loose a nature, that a current 
\'di water might soon wear away a deep channel, drain 
jaflf Lake Erie, and cause a tremendous inundation. 
This barrier will be seen at the Mountain Ridge, on 
I the northern part of the Canal, where the descent is 
;above 300 feet. From Lake Erie to that place the 
[stranger will observe that he proceeds on an almost 
j uninterrupted level. The continuation of the Moun- 
jtain Ridge forms the Falls of Niagara, and the eleva- 
jtion of ground at Lockport> surmounted by the noble 
; works at that place. It runs for many miles, present- 
ing towards the east an irregular iine of precipice, 
with salient and re-entering angles, like an immense 
fortification. Most of the streams which fall over it 
pour down the ravines thus formed. 
I An experienced and capable engineer. Judge 
'Geddes, first published this fact in the Journal of Sci- 
, ence and the Arts, and stated that there appeared to 
i be every reason to suppose one of these natural ravines 
received the Niagara river at the Falls ; and that the; 



\)6 FALLS OF ^NIAGAKA. 

apparent attrition of the rocks for a great distance 
below, and the general belief of the cataract having 
retired for miles, are not to be confided in. 

The Welland River, a very sluggish stieam, \yas to 
he used for ten miles, being entered by a lock of eight 
feet lift, a towing path being formed along its bank. 
It was, however, determined, in 1828, to cross this 
"Stream by an aqueduct. This river has a course of 30 
or 10 miles, between the two lakes, but nearly on a 
level with Lake Erie, and empties into Niagara Kiver 
about two miles above the falls. It was intended that 
vessels passing the sloop lock at Black Uock, should 
enter the canal by this route ; and the Canal Company 
were authorized to make a towing path along the Ni- 
agara and the Welland Rivers. Its breadth is from 
three to four chains. 

The Deep Cut. We approach a part of the canal 
in which the greatest labour and expense were re- 
quired. It extends one mile and three quarters, and 
required the excavation of 1.477,700 cubic yards of 
earth. The excavation is now to an average depth of 
45 feet. The ground is undulating, and the greatest 
depth is 56 feet. 

The surface suddenly rises to the height of 3G feet ; 
and 106 chains further, to 56 "eet 6 inches. Thence 
it descends until, at the end o" the Deep Cut, it is only 
30 feet. This ground has been excavated, and the 
level of the canal preserved, by the greatest work of 
the kind in America, excepting perhrps the aqueduct 
on the plain of Mexico. The earth, to 12 or 18 feet 
below the surface, was clay mixed with a little sand. 
Below that was a hard blue clay, frequently requiring 
the pickaxe. The earth dug out near the middle of 
the cut was raised up the banks, which are 150 feet 
apart at the deepest places, as the nature of (he soil 
required a gradual slope. In 1828, however, great 
masses sunk down again into the canal, so that the ex- 
cavations are made to a level 17 feet above that at first 
designed. 



WELLAND CANAL, 97 

Lock No. 1, of the Mountain Ridge, is 4 miles and 
' 23 chains from the Deep Cut. The intervening sur- 
vface is undulating, and the canal passes alternate ra- 
vines and ridges. By damming the former a little way 
from the line on the left, numerous pools or reser- 
jvoirs (taken together, two miles in length) were 
fonned, which would have been very useful for the 
Flocks. 

•j Near the brow of the Mountain Ridge is an eleva- 
- lion, which required an excavation nearly 20 feet deep 
' for 20 chains. On this level are four twin bridges, 
'■with butments 40 feet asunder, corresponding with the 
^ breadth of all the locks westward of this place, which 
''are 40 feet by 125, and able to admit steamboats up 
to this point, either from Grand River or Niagara 
f River, by the Welland. 

Locks Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, are in a ravine 52 chains in 
t length, which introduces the stranger to the most re- 
markable scene of the kind in the world. 
i The Mountain Ridge. Within the extent of a mile 
and 55 chains are 17 locks of 22 feet by TOO, which 
overcome nearly the whole elevation of Lake Erie 
above Ontario. The canal winds along the face of 
the descent, bending to the left and the right, to give 
room for reservoirs between the locks, necessary for 
a convenient supply of water. None of the locks are 
less than 30 yards apart. This is the only part of the 
route where rocks were to be excavated, and the 
amount of rock removed here was 70,000 cubic yards. 

At the foc^of this long and steep descent the canal 
enters a ravine, which extends two and a half miles 
through 12 locks, between high banks, to 

St. Catharine's. The descent from the top of the 
ridge to this place is 322 teet. Though a small vil- 
lage, St. Catharine's has already become a place of 
considerable importance. To Lake Ontario from this 
place, five miles, there are four locks, 32 feet by 125, 
and one of ten feet lift. The route runs chiefly along 
the valley of the principal branch of the Twelve Mile 
Creek. I ? 



;4; iALxiS Oi-' 2S1AUAKA. 

Po7^t Dalhousie, the harbour of the Weliand Cana. 
on Lake Ontario, is protected by two fine piers, run 
out 200 or 350 yards, nearly at the angle of storm, 
which is about 80 degrees west : the eastern overlap- 1 
ping the western, with a return pier, which is better j 
than the break-water originally proposed. The ground 
was here found to be a brown alluvion, well fitted foi 
the driving of piles. A large harbour for boats, and a 
timber pond for rafts, have been formed by damming 
the mouth of Twelve Mile Creek, which throws the 
w^ater back over an area of 500 acres. A waste weii 
lets off the surplus water without allowing it to enter 
the harbour, so that there is no current formed through 
it, and no danger is incurred of forming a bar at its 
mouth. A lock of five feet lift raises vessels from the 
harbour to the basin. 

It has been ascertained that a branch canal might be 
cut on a dead level, and at the expense of only 
20,000/. from somewhere near the foot of the Mountain 
Ridge to Niagara, nine miles ; but no decisive measures 
have yet been adopted. It would cross Ten, Four, 
Two, and One Mile Creeks. 

The Canada Land Company, by whom this magni- 
ficent work has been planned and accomplished, is a 
corporation, under the parliament of the colony, with 
a capital of !^800,000, of which a large portion was 
supplied by individual subscriptions, partly in New- 
York and England. The government of Upper Ca- 
nada subscribed g200,000 and lent JglOO.OOO. That 
of Lower Canada subscribed g 100,000. . The British' 
.■^rovernment have granted them one-ninth of the whole 
cost of the work, and 13,000 acres of land on the 
route, west of Weliand River. Public stores, &c. are 
to be transported on the canal free of duty. 

This canal admits larger vessels than any other in 
America, except the Delaware and Chesapeake Ca- 
nal in Pennsylvania, for which see the index. The 
locks are of wood, but built on the most approved 
principles. The common dimensions are 100 feet 



TOVV.N. OF i.xll^h'tii, jy 

uijg, 22 wide, and 8 deep ; and are calcuiated for ves • 
els of from 100 to 125 tons burthen. The largest 
chooners heretofore used on the lake?, are stated to 
■"le not more than 90 feet long, 20 wide, with a bur- 
then of from 60 to 90 tons. Many of the locks re- 
Ijjuired puddling and fla?:ging. 

k The lockage on this canal being all on one de- 
'cent, there never can be any want of water : Lake 
j>ie being on the summit level. The numerous ponds 
' nd pools are however convenient reservoirs. The 
Mature of the work is such as to allow deepening the 
i7ater by merely building the locks so much higher, 
ijnd raising the dam over Welland River. 
3 Men of science in the branches of engineering 
ttdijch relate to the construction of canals, have spoken 
v^ith approbation, and frequently admiration, of the 
^ lodes adopted on the line of the Welland Canal : the 
■lanner of removing earth from deep cuttings; the 
'lans of the wooden locks, paddle gates, draw- 
yridges, &c. 

\ The tomii ofGuelph is a creation of the year 1827 ; 
k was laid out and settled under the direction of the 
yanada Land Company ; and a village has suddenly 
prung up in the midst of the wilderness. The Semi- 
1 ary was founded the first j'ear of its existence, and 
jiiere have been built the Company's office, of stone, 
132 feet square, a church, and schoolhouse. This 
•lace is the central settlement on a tract of the Com- 
)any's lands in the Gore District, called the Town- 
hip of Guelph, containing 42,000 acres of Crown re- 
erves for the Six I^Jations. The Clergy Reserves are 
!tn the N. E. of it, beyond vv^hich are Flamboro' and 
I Beverly. The township of Waterloo is S. S. W. of 
luelph ; and probably the wealthiest farming town- 
hip in the province. Guelph Township has a soil of 
)lack, fertile, sandy loam, bearing beech, maple, elm, 
)ass, ash, cherry, some pine, cedar, and hemlock. The 
urface is irregular, and the streams swift. The town 
5 on the river Speed, 12 nniles from its confluence 



100 lALLS OF NIAGARA. 

with Grand River, 5 from Waterloo, 14 from Gait, ^o 
by the present road from Ancaster, and 25 from Lake 
Ontario. A fine straij^ht road, 8 rods wide, is to be 
opened in that direction. Rivers run from this town 
into lakes Huron, Simcoe, Erie, and Ontario; and the 
Canada Company intend to render them all navigable 
if possible. 

Goderich is a town lately laid out at the mouth of 
the Red, or Goderich River ; to which a road was 
making in 1828, from Guelph, by the government, and 
lots of 100 acres offered for sale. 

Burlington. The bay is remarkably fine ; it is shel- 
tered from every wind, contains 15,000 acres, and is 
25 feet deep. The fort on the heights is very strong 
and commanding. A large fleet might lie under its 
protection. It is proposed to make a graving dock in 
Grindstone Creek, by damming it, under the guns of 
the fort. An artificial entrance has been made. 

Dundas, at the head of Burlington Bay, is a flourish- 
ing place, and rising in importance. A road was in 
construction to this place from Guelph in 1828. 

Improve tiients projected in Canada. Among the 
most recent projects for internal improvement in Ca- 
nada, is that of a canal from Lake Huron to the Bay 
of Quinte. This would open a communication at a 
distance from the frontier of the United States, by 
which, in time of war, goods, military stores, mum 
tions, &c. might be transported without the risks to 
which they would be exposed on the present routes. 
The engineers employed by the British government 
state that there are broken links formed by Simcoe, 
Cameron, Pigeon, and Front Lakes, which might be 
connected without any great difficulty in one entire 
chain of water communication. The line might touch 
at the Marmora Iron Works, and pass through the 
new settlements near Rice Lake and the River Trent, 
xvhich are flourishing. The population of Upper Ca- 
nada was believed to amount to 200,000 in 1828. 

It has been proposed to make canals for sloop navi- 



THE WESTERN LAKEjj. li) I 

•ation from Prescott to Montreal. The advanta.^es of 
tuch works, taken into view with the Welland Canal, 
ne easy to estimate. Before, the transportation of 
(1000 staves from Lake Erie to Montreal cost ^90. If 
Jll these canals were made, the cost would be reduced 
3^50. Sloops carryina: 6000 slaves could make six 
)]:ips a year, and gain ^1800. A barrel of flour which 
aid 65. ior that distance, would pay only 3s. A ton 
f merchandise now costs £4 5s. for transportation 
etween Prescott and Mf)ntreal, and would then cost 
J^nly £17$. 

York, the capital of Upper Canada, is a place ot 
jGonsiderable size. The public buildings make little 
lf(gure. The harbour is very fine, protected by defen- 
jiiive works on Gibraltar Point. King's College is of 
oecent institution, and bears the style and privileges of 
university. The governor is chancellor, the Lord 
l^ishop of Quebec visiter, and the Archdeacon of 
ijrork president. The chancellor appoints professors. 
""To religious tests are required except for degrees in 
livinity, as at Oxford and Cambridge. A road is 
flaking to Guelph, 47 miles, and on to Goderich, less 
han 100 further. 

THE WESTERN LAKES. 



Ontario is 180 miles long, 40 miles wide, 500 feet 
ieep ; and its surface is computed at 218 feet above 
he elevation of tide water at Three Rivers, 270 
^niles below Cape Vincent. 

'^ Erie is 270 miles long, 60 miles wide, 200 ket 
Ieep ; audits surface is 565 feet above tide water at 
Ubany. It was said, in 1823, to be between 2 and 3 
eet higher than a few years before, having gradually 
isen. 

Huron is 250 miles long, 100 miles average breadth, 
,)00 feet deep ; and its surface is nearly 595 feet above 
I he tide water. 

Michigan is 400 miles long, 50 wide, depth un> 
j>vnown : elevation the s^ime s< Ruron. 



102 FALLS OF NIAGARA. 

Green Bay is about 105 miles long-, 20 miles "wide, 
depth unknown ; elevation the same as Huron and 
Michigan. 

Lake Superior is 459 mile? longr, 109 miles average 
width, 900 feet deep ; and its surface 1048 feet above 
the tide water. 

Hence the bottom of Lake Erie is not as low as the 
foot of Niagara Falls ; but the bottom of each of the 
other lakes, it will be observed, is lower than the sur- 
face of the ocean. 

"Lake Superior is the head fountain, the grand reser- 
voir of the mighty volume. After making a semi- 
circle of live degrees to the south, accommodating and 
enriching one of the most fertile and interesting sec- 
tions of the globe, it meets Ifie tide a distance of 2000 
miles from its source, and 5000 from the extreme point 
of its estuary, on the Atlantic coast." 

The lakes have a periodical rise once in twelve 
years. It occurred in 1815 and 1827. 

The Ferry across Niagara river is about half a 
mile below the Fails, and may be crossed at any hour 
in the day, without danger, notwithstanding the ra- 
pidity of the current. The descent from the bank is 
so steep, that it has been necessary to build a. stair- 
case. 

To Buffalo on the Canada side 28^ miles. 

To Chippewa, 2 miles. 

Waterloo, (Fort Erie,) .... 16 
(Over the ferry to Black Rock, 25 cts. each passenger.) 
Buffalo,. . 2i 

Opposite Buffalo, in Waterloo, are the remains of 
Fort Erie, a fortress of great consequence in the late 
war. There was a strong wail surrounded with in- 
trenchments reaching to the lake. The remains of the 
British camp are also seen, and the trees are still 
wounded with shot. 

Battle of Erie. On the 17th of September, 1814, a 
severe action was fought at a little distance from Fort 
Erie, when a part of the American garrison. 1000 regu~ 



JiMIAKKS ON LPPEK CAxVAJJA. iO.'> 

jdis and 1000 militia, made a sortie, and took the^ 
: British works, about 500 yards in front of their line. 
The British had two batteries on their left, which 
,anno^ed the lort, and weie about opening a third. 
'Their camp was about two rniles distant, sheltered by 
-a wood: their works were garrisoned with one-third 
of their infantry, Irora 12 to 1500 men, and a de- 
*tachnient of artillery. 

I Gen. Porter with the volunteers, Col. Gibson with 
the riflemen, and Maj. Brooks with the 23d and 21st 
light infantry, and a few dismounted dragoons, were 
I sent from the extreme left of the American position, 
by a passage cut through the woods towards the ene- 
my's right; and Gen. Miller was stationed in the ra- 
pine between the fort and the enemy's batteries ; while 
;Gren. Ripley had a reserve under the bastions. 

A little before 3 P, M. the left columns commenced 
heir attack upon the enemy's right ; and Gen. Miller 
it the s-civne time pushed forward between Nos. 2 and 
knd 3 of the batteries, broke their line, and took their 
wo blockhouses. Battery No. 1 was soon after de- 
l>erted, the guns were spiked, and the magazine of No. 
]) was blown up. Gen. Ripley was wounded, and 
pol. Gibson killed. The action lasted about an hour, 
1 vhich gave time for the remaining two-thirds of the 
jinemy's force to march from their camp and partake 
I n it. The Americans at length retired with prisoners, 
j laving succeeded in their object. The British suf- 
fered so much, that Lieut. Gen. Drummond broke up 
liis camp on the 21st, and retired to his intrenchments 
i )ehind the Chippewa River. 

) General Remarks on Upper Canada. This exten- 
ive district has begun to increase in population with 
;reat rapidity, and great exertions are making to intro- 
luce improvements of various kinds. The Welland 
l^anal, which has already been spoken of, promises 
advantages of great importance to the colonies. 
1 Emigration has been so much encouraged by the 
'British government, for the peopling of this part of 



104 itUUTE FKOM iMAGAKA TO :jlUx\ TiiiiiAL. 

their possessions, that great numbers of Irish, Scotch, 
and Engh'sh have come over within a few years. In 
the seven years preceding 1825, 68,000 emigrants ar- 
rived at Quebec ; in lS-25, 9000, and many since. 

According to Fothergill, there were tfien, in Upper 
Canada, 989,294 acres of cuUivated land ; grist mills. 
304 ; saw mills, 386 ; merchant stores, 394 ; houses, 
30,774 ; oxen, 27,644 ; milch cows, 67,000 ; calvesj 
35,000 ; 290 townships surveyed, containing in all 17 
million acres ; about two millions wild lands ; dis- 
tillers' duty, g46,000, (in 1827.) 

To Buffalo^ on the American side, 30^ miles. 

Tonavvanta Creek, where the canal passes, 11 mile.?. 

Black Rock, 10 

Buffalo, 2| 

To Fort George, 4 miles. 

Queenstown, 7 

Fort George, 7 

[The route from Niagara to Albany and the Spring? 
will be taken up after the route to Montreal.]— 
Seej). 109. 

ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL, 

392 miles. 

Those who have never travelled through the slate 
of New-1i!ork, and have leisure fo make so circuitous 
a route, will prefer to go to Buffalo, Lockport, or Ro- 
chester, and take the line of the Erie Canai, the 
Springs, Lake George, and Lake Champlain, in their 
way to Montreal. Many, however, will prefer to take 
the more direct route, which is by the steamboats 
through Lake Ontario, and is performed in about two 
days. The American boats go from Fort Niagara to 
Qgdensburgh, keeping towards the southern shore., and 



3 



Hoiichin^ at the principal ports. The British boat.. 
' make a few stops, but steer a course very near the 
•middle of the lake, which is the boundary betv/een 
the two countries : they are usually out of sight of 
jland about twelve hours. There are several higli 
points on the northern shore. The most important 
are the cliffs of Torento, the Devil's Nose, and the 
jFifty Mile Hill. 

Route from Niagara io Montreal. There were 
seven steamboats, in 1828, owned on the British side 
Df Lake Ontario ; the Alciope, Q,ueenston, Torento, 
jSir J. Kempt, Dalhousie, &c. 

The steamboats go to York in about 4^ hours ; stop 
it Kingston* in about 24 hours from Niagara, and at 
^rescott in twelve hours more ; thence stage coach to 
Cornwall ; whence a steamboat, in five hours, brings 
;ou to the foot of Lake St. Francis. A steamboat of 
■)9 horse power was built in 1827, to pass the rapids 
I it Coteau du Lac, and to take passengers to the 
'tillage of the Cedars, nine miles further than here- 
ofore by water. From the Cedars to the cascade 
s in stagf- coaches, about 16 miles. Thence a steam- 
)oat goes in 4 hours to Lachine ; and thence to Mon- 
real a stage coach, which stops at the Exchange 
l/oftee House. The fare from Frescott to Montreal 
Ivas g7— and from Niagara g20— The additional ex- 
|)enses for board amount on the whole iournev to 
I bout g2|. "^ ^ 

I American Boats, 

\Port Genesee, 72 miles, at the mouth of the Genesee 
[hver, IS a port of entry and delivery. Here are a 
ustom-house, and the village of Charlotte, in Monroe 
ounty. This river rises in Pennsylvania, and runs a 
ently winding course about 125 miles in the state of 

'' -It Kingston, (U. C.) is to bo seen tlie Cataraqui Brid<'e, wherp i3 
• be the route between Lake Ontario and the Ottawa River The 
I eainboat Dalhousie, whicli first passed this bridge in 1829, is to be a 
hoUelfor oUiei- boaL=! on the route; viz. 76 fect^Iong, 31 feet 4mcl"'« 
I ">. tiicUiding the wings, draught of water 4 ff r?. 



'lUG liul; IE IKUM MALMiA TO MOxnTKEAL-. 

Xew-York. It is navig-al^le only four miles ironi lis" 
mouth, to Carthage, where the banks are high, rocky, 
and perpendicular; and there is a fine tall (104 (eeU 
including the rapids, &c.) about half a mile above. 
Stage coaches are in waiting for Rochester, six miles. 
See Carthage, page 64. 

Great Sodus Bay, 35l m. Here are three bays in 
succession : Sodus, East, and Port Bays. There are 
three Islands, and Port Glasgow is at the head of the 
bay, only 10| miles from Clyde, on the canal, with a 
good road to it. 

Oswego, 28 m. This village is situated at the mouth 
of Oswego River, and has a good harbour, with ten 
feet water. Navigation on this river ended half a mile 
above, except for boats, which went 12 miles further. A 
very large button-wood tree, 35^ feet in circumference, 
is seen a mile from the village near the road. 

This place is likely to become one of the most 
rapid growth and improvement in all the state of New- 
York. Its prosperity, not being derived directly from 
the influence ol the Erie Canal, but from one of its 
principal branches, is of a date correspondent with the 
commencement of the latter work, 1826. (See Sy- 
racuse.) It was completed in 1828. It joins the Erie 
Canal at Salina, and will afford an interesting excur- 
sion either way. From the head of the fails to the 
village, it leads along the river's bank, preserving the 
elevated level almost to the brow of the hill over the 
Lake, and then descends by locks. For the distance 
of a mile the interval between the canal and the river 
affords the most advantageous situations for manufac- 
tories of 'various descriptions, for which the land was 
purchased in lots in 1827 at from ^2,500 to ^3,500. 
Lake vessels can lie on one side of the manufactories 
and canal boats on the other ; and Congress have ap- 
propriated ,^35,000 for protecting the harbour with 
piers. The opening of the VVelland canal will pro- 
bably increase the business of the place, which, be 
fore these improvements, ^vas out of the way of travr' 






saoilett's harbolk. 107 

jei's, except as a point where the steamboats stopped. 
The lake is 70 miles wide opposite Oswego. 

Fort Oswego, so famous in the history of the French 
and revolutionary wars, stands on the east side of the 
river. The situation was very advantageous for the 
command of a larp;e extent of country, as this river is 
the common outlet of all the interior lakes of the state. 
While this post was held alternately by the French 
and English, they could command a great part of the 
trade with the Five Nations of Indians, who inhabited 
the country with which it communicated. 

Fort Oswego is elevated only about 50 feet from the 
level of the water ; and being overlooked by the 
eminence on which Fort Ontario was afterward 
erected, was fit only for a defence in early times. A 
trading house was built here in 1722, and a fort five 
years after. This was extended in the beginning ot 
the French war of 1755, when Fort Ontario was 
built. In the following year. General Montcalm 
came from Canada, and besieged the fortresses with 
3000 troops, and two vessels. Fort Ontario was 
evacuated after one attack ; and on the following day, 
-August 14lh, Fort Oswego surrendered to the French, 
with a large quantity of stores, brought at great ex- 
pense through the wilderness, and 21 cannon, 14 
mortars, &c. also two sloops, and about 200 boats. 
The captors, however, did not think proper to hold 
the position, but immediately abandoned it. 

Col. St. Leger attempted to approach Albany by 
this route in 1777, in order to co-operate with Gen. 
Burgoyne ; but he was repulsed at Fort Stanvvix by 
Col. Willet, and obliged to return. 

In 1814, on the 6th of May, the British attacked the 
place, and, after a loss of about 100 men, got posses- 
.^ion of it, but evacuated it the next day. 

Sacketes Harbour, 40 m. Settled in 1801. In the 
late war, it became an important naval station, and 
increased very rapidly. It is 8 miles distant from the 
l^ke. on Honnslow Bay. The harbour is divided into 



iOS EOUTE I ROM NIAGARA TO MONTEEAL. 

two by a narrow point, and offers great advantages 
for ship building-. A first rate,^^man-of-war is still un- 
finished on the stocks, under a shelter, and another at 
Black River. On the shore are seen the- stone Bar- 
racks, which enclose about ten acres of ground. 

Cape Viiicenti 20 m. The St. Lawrence is here 
divided by Grand Island. Kingston, in Upper Canada, 
lies opposite, at the distance of 11 miles. 

Morristown. This is a small village, 10 miles from 
Ogdensbuig'h. The river is a little more than a mile 
in breadth, and on the opposite side is Brockville. 
There is a number of rocky islands in the St. Law- 
rence, and the gentle slope of the land on the New- 
York shore, adds a great degree of beauty to the 
scene. 

General Wilkinson embarked at this place in 1813. 

Ogdenshurgh, formerly Oswegatchic. This is the 
end of the navigation, and here the steamboat stops. 
The village is pretty, contains some large stores, and 
carries on considerable business. On the other side of 
the river is Prescott, where the British steamboat 
stops. The ruins of Fort Oswegatckie, or Fort Pre- 
sentation, may still be traced. It was not very large, 
and contained only a bomb-proof, two buildings of 
stone, barracks, &c. It was built in the, beginning or 
middle of the last century. Grapes are cultivated 
here with great success. 

The Thousand Islands are a most beautiful part of 
the navigation, presentintc themselves in every variety 
of forms, though never rising to any great elevation. 
They might be compared with the islands of Lake 
George. 

Gallop Islands, 5 m. Here the rapids of the St. 
Lawrence begin. A number of mills will be seen at 
different places on the shore. On Stony Island was a 
fort of some consequence, which was taken by Gene- 
ral Amherst on his way to Montreal, in the year 1760. 

Si, Regis, 54 m. The Indian tribe which bears this 
name ha^^r* n re^prvation of Innd herp "I I mifp« bv ". 



KOUTE FK031 KIAGAKA TU ALliAIsi.. lU9 

Lachine, 5Sm. (See Index.) 
Montreal, 9 m. (See do.) 

ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 

Black Rock is a pleasant village situated on the 
margin of Niagara River, a little way from its head, 
and opposite Squaw Island, at the mouth of Lake Erie. 
It was burnt by the British during the war in 1814, 
but has since been rebuilt and increased to a much 
greater size. Black Rock disputed with Buffalo the 
privilege of having the basin of the canal built in her 
harbour, and at last obtained it. A pier about two 
miles in length was built to secure the boats and ves- 
sels from the waves of the lake, as well as to raise 
the water for the supply of the canal to the Genesee 
River. The work, however, has its disadvantages : 
for the swiftness of the current in the river, and the 
heaping up of the ice on the shores, prove great ob- 
stacles to the navigation, and the pier has suffered 
repeated injuries. It has been partly reconstructed 
on an improved plan. An inclined plane is presented 
to the waves, &c. 

BUFFALO, 3 miles from Black Rock. 

Inns. The Eagle Tavern, &c. 

The situation of this village is remarkably conve- 
nient and agreeable, occupying a long hill of a gentle 
ascent, rising from the immediate vicinity of the lake. 
The principal street runs along the ridge of the hill, 
looking out upon Lake Erie to the horizon, and is or- 
namented with several fine blocks of brick stores and 
handsome dwelling-houses, together with several pub- 
lic buildings, all erected since the burning of the village 
by the British in 1814, as well as the buildings in the 
other streets, which are fast increasing every year. In 
April 1814, only one house was standing in the vil- 
lage, that of a widow in the upper part of the street. 
K 2 



HO HOUTE FROM Is^IAGAltA TO ALBAIvi. 

A large piece of ground has been left in the middle ot 
the town for a public square, where several roads 
meet, and which it is intended to ornament with pub- 
lic edifices. A walk has also been laid out on the 
brow of the hill towards the lake. This is called the 
Terrace, and affords a charm ina; view upon the lake, 
the harbour, and the canal, to Black Rock. In 1825, 
a small village grew up below the terrace, 5 taverns 
being built, with 65 other houses, before which there 
was but one house. One of the inns will accommodate 
200 persons. The largest store in the state is believed 
to be one of these, which is 90 feet by 70, and 3 sto- 
ries high. The township was found to contain 6000 
inhabitants that year, and has greatly improved since. 

The harbour of Buffalo is singularly fitted by nature 
for the junction of the two kinds of navigation which 
are here brought together ; the entrance from the 
lake being sheltered by the point on which the light- 
house is erected, and the two small rivers which here 
unite their waters, affording every convenience for 
landing and reshipping goods. The shores of these 
are very bold, and they are connected by a natural 
channel, which serves the purposes of a basin, as well 
as of an easy communication ; and as the canal to 
Black Rock commences close by it, the inland trans- 
portation begins without more ado. Sixty vessels 
traded with Buffalo in 1827, including the steamboats; 
of vvhich number 7 were Canadian. The steamboat 
Pioneer plied to Dunkirk, and the Chippewa to Chip- 
pewa. About 30,000 barrels of salt were shipped for 
the westward during that year. The United States 
are improving the harbour. 

The water of the Creek was brought into the vil- 
lage, in 1827, from above the falls, by a canal 3 miles 
long, which will supply a head of water for machi- 
nery. A steam foundry is in operation in this town. 

The Canal to Black Rock is dug near the shore of 
the lake. The Erie Canal is supplied with water 
Irencp to the Sonera River, from Lakp Erie. The inr^f 



VOYAGE LP LAKE ERIE« lU 

}art ot it is through a low, sandy level, where the 
ixcavations were much impeded by the water which 
oaked through in great abundance. About half a 
nile from Buffalo, the workmen hit upon a bed of old 
lalf-decayed trees, which was dug into to the depth 
•f six feet, and extended about half a mile. Many 
tranches and logs were discovered, vvhich preserved 
11 the grain of the wood ; but the greater part was a 
'lack mass of matter, which, on being dried, burned 
vith greater readiness. In some places, ashes and 
oals were found ; and some of the logs appeared to 
ave been washed and rolled by the water of the lake 
efore they were buried. 

Chatauque Lake. A steamboat of 50 tons began to 
m on this lake in 1828. It performs the route frotrt 
araestown to Maysville in 3 hours. 

(For remarks on the Erie Canal see Albany.) 

VOYAGE UP LAKE ERIE. 

At Buffalo opens a very extensive route, for those 
ho are disposed to travel still farther westward, 
'here is little to be seen along either shore of the 
ike, which would reward the common traveller for 
le tedium of a long ride over a country generally 
' 'vel, or for the inconveniences he would experience 
I'om want of public accommodations, and even the 
equent absence of settlements. The price of a pas- 
lige to Detroit in the cabin is ^15, and in the steerage, 
i'here nothing is supplied but ship room and access to 
,ie kitchen, half price. The following are the stop- 
I ing places on the passage to Detroit, with their dis- 
inces ; and steamboats run almost every day. (See 
hio Canals Index.) 

rom Buffalo to Erie, 90 miles 

Erie to Grand River, 75 

Grand River to Cleaveland, ... 30 
I Cleaveland to Sandusky, .... 60 
I Sanduskv if^ Opfroit 7.';-TrvtR} '';30 



i 13 lltXlTE W4UM rsIAUAKA TO x\LiiAML. 

The United States' government are improving sevt 
jal of these harbours, as there is not a natural one be 
tween Buffalo and Sandusky. In 1827, there were 
475 arrivals at the latter port. The American Fui 
Company bring down ^250,000 to ^300,000 in furs. 

The steamboat Pioneer runs from Buffalo to Dun 
kirk, connecting with the stage coaches to Cleave 
land, which divide there, and go south to Worcestei 
and to Newburgh, and west to Milan and Lovvei 
Sandusky. At Dunkirk begins a portage of 7 miles to 
Casdaga lake, and the w^aters of the Ohio river. 

Michigan is a territory fast rising in population, 
wealth, and importance. A large branch of the tide of 
emigration from the eastern states and New-York has 
been turned in that direction, and still further west, 
encouraged b}'- the judicious system adopted by the 
government of the united States, in selling the land 
at reasonable prices for cash. Experience has proved, 
in other public lands, the difficulties that must ever 
arise from credits to settlers, even with nominally higl; 
prices. The sober, industrious, and frugal can gene- 
rally produce or borrow money enough to purchase a 
small farm ; and then they have many encouragement-^ 
to exertion, which a wretched population in debt 
would never feel. There may be seen a state oi 
things similar to that witnessed in Ohio twenty or 
thirty years ago ; and in that length of time it is pre- 
sumed that changes no less important will be pre- 
sented in Michigan. 

The surface and soil are favourable to cultivation. 
There is a succession of gentle undulations, gradually 
rising towards the interior ; and the regularity of the 
ground, with the remarkably open nature of the forests, 
it is said, permit carriages to travel for hundreds of 
miles without meeting any obstacle. It has been pro- 
posed to avoid the long circumnavigation of the whole 
peninsula, by making a canal across the neck. 

Green Bay, on Lake Huron, is interesting as a posi- 
tion occupied by a military garrison, and the seat of a 



aincie^t fortifications. 113 

ai^e number of Indians, for whose improvement some 
xeTtlons have been recently made. Tlie principal 
ribe residing there are the Menominie, or JVild Rice 
ndians, who are both numerous and powerful, and 
,)artly civihzed. 

The Fox river, which empties into Green Bay, flows 
hrough a very fertile country ; and the time is not 
I'ery far distant when the head waters of the stream 
vill be united by a canal with the Ouisconsin, which 
lows into the Mississippi. The climate of Green Bay 
s remarkably healthful. The lead mines on Fevre 
liver are now wrought by about five thousand men. 
I The following are the boundaries of the proposed 
,'.ew territory, to be called Huron : from the north-east 
orner of the state of Illinois, northwardly, down the 
:iiddle of Lake Michigan, to the " Big Fox Island;" 
' nd thence, due north to the Canada line, or north- 
Ivardly, down the middl*^ of the lake, and through the 
traits, east and south of the "Bois Blanc Island," to 
he Canada line. 

Ais^ciENT Fortifications. 

On Buffalo Creek, and tow^ards Genesee Kiver also, 
re several large and interesting remnants of ancient 
jrtifications ; but as they lie off the road, few travel- 
ers will visit them. They appear to form part of a 
;reat chain of defensive works extending from the 
astern part of Lake Ontario, along that lake and Erie, 
llown the Ohio and Mississippi rivers to Mexico. This 
is the opinion of Mr. Atwater, of Circleville, Ohio, 
jvho has published some very interesting details, 
Irawings, &lc. connected with them, in his " Archse- 
ilogia Americana." A line of old forts extends from 
^ataraugus Creek, 50 miles, along the shore of Lake 
Y^v'ie, to the line of Pennsylvania. They are on the 
^orders of creeks and oU bays, although now from 
j wo to five miles distant from the lake, which is sup- 
loosed to have retiro^l t.hr>t di«tartro sinro thev werr 



114 UOVTE X:R0M KIA&AKA To ALiiAAli. 

built. Another similar line is said to exist in the rea; 
of them, on another parallel elevation. 

Much curiosity and speculation have been callec 
forth by these sing^ular monuments of antiquity. Some 
regard them as marks of a civilized people : other- 
ns the works of Indian tribes. Some traces of a tra- 
dition referring them to the latter, are said to hav^' 
been lately discovered. 

Seneca Castle.— -The Seneca nation possess a large 
and valuable tract of land adjoining Bufialo, on the 
.east, and they have two villages three and five mile; 
on the road. The Senecas are the westernmost tribo^ 
in the confederacy of the Five Nations, and have al- 
ways held a conspicuous rank in their histor3^ The}-' 
were formerly consideted the most numerous antl 
powerful tribe, and preserved this superiority until thr 
latal defeat the}^ received from General Schuyler, ii 
1778, since which they have made a less conspicuou- 
figure. 

Besides the land they possess, which is remarkable 
for its t'ertility, the nation are in possession of a lar^c 
sum in the United States' Bank stock, the dividend to;. 
which they receive annuall3^ 

The traveller will observe several farms under a 
degree of cultivation, and may meet with individual? 
who conform pretty nearly to the English style ot 
dress, and have introduced some of our customs intc 
their houses. The greater part of them, however, 
speak no language but Indian. 



Stage Road from Buffalo to Caxakbaigua. 

I 

The first few iiiiles of this road present very little j 
interest ; 15 or 20 miles of it were formerly remarkable j 
as passing over an old causeway of logs. The logs j 
made the travelling rough and disagreeable ; but as ' 
they are gradually covered over with earth, the diffi- 
culties are lessening every year. To those who are 
not accust'^rried to a conntrv sn new and ■^vild as this. 



h word or two may not be amiss on the oianner in 
vhich roads are first made in an American settlement. 
in thick forests, the surface of the ground is covered 
lo the depth of one or two feet with the roots of treeSj 
ij.vhich are extreme!)^ difficult to be removed, and are 
E 'ery dangerous for horses or oxen to pass over. A close 
Ivi'ayer of logs, although itself sufficiently rough, forms 
I much safer and more convenient path, and is usually 
iidopted with great advantage. There is another 
reason for it — the elevation of the road above the 
bommon surface, secures it from being overflowed by 
ij he water, which in the moist seasons of the year 
iiivould impede the travelling in low and marshy places. 

Batavia, 40 miles from Buffalo, is a very handsome 
){ pillage, and contains the residence of the present and 
i ormer agents of the Holland Land Company, (Messrs. 
ijSvans and Otto,) as well as the county buildings.* 
: Leroy, 10 miles. 

I [Springs. In Avon, 2| miles from the road through 
J hat village, are 8 or 10 springs, where are boarding 
nouses.] 

I The PVadstVorth Farm, at Geneseo, contains about 
1000 acres, about 1700 of which are rich alluvial land 
Ian the banks of the Genesee river. Various branches 
i jf agriculture have been tried on this fertile tract of 
'country ; but the raising of sheep has been found the 
most profitable, and the farm has been almost entirely 
converted into mowing fields and pastures. The 
number of sheep, in 1827, was computed at 13,000. 
The residence of the proprietor is in a fine and spa- 
cious building, in a commanding situation ; and the 
whole aspect of the farm indicates the good order and 
itiethod with which it is conducted. Mr. Rogers has 
a very fine farm in Moscow. 

The Genesee meadows v.'eie formerly the residence 
of a large tribe of Indians of the Seneca nation ; and 
^vhen Gen. Suiiivan reached this place, in his march 

* f^fac^ -^rtrrr Jit's rnh Trom r. 11 Hi vi^fol^ oci. ester. 



ii ' liULTE iiio.^i AlAC.iKA i'U ALliAAl. 

Ihrough the country, he found and burnt a village ci 
120 log houses, on the second bank, which had been 
deserted at his approach. One of his scouts was cut 
off wiiile his army was near the west bank of the 
river, and only one man escaped ; but the Indians 
constantly fled as he approached, and there was no 
fighting in all this western part of the state. 

The remains of a mammoth were dug up about 
half a mile from the village of Geneseo in 1825. 
There were 8 teeth and grinders, parts of a tusk, a 
thigh bone 3 feet long, the lower bone of the leg 3 
feet 6 inches, &c. They lay between strata of vege- 
table mould and sand. 

West Bloonifield, beyond the Genesee river, is one ' 
-•(f the finest agricultural townships in the state, and ; 
presents a succession of beautiful farms, tilled with ' 
care and yielding the finest crops. Fruit thrives re- i 
markably well in all this western country, as the 
;4ightest attention to the orchards will sufficiently i 
prove; and while in smoothness and neatness the fields ] 
]ival those of the oldest districts farther east, the or- 
chards exceed them in luxuriance and product. The 
Hack apple is a species of fruit which has been said 
to be peculiar to this region. 

East Bloomfield is the next village ; and the general 
remarks just made, may with justice be applied to 
this place also. 

CANANDAIGUA, 

(nn. Blossom's Stage House. 

This is one of the finest vyestern towns, and its prin- 
cipal street runs along the ridge of a commanding hill, 
rising from the north end of Canandaigua Lake. It 
is wide, and contains an academy, and many hand- 
some houses, particularly that of the late Gideon 
Granger. The road, in passing Canandaigua Lake, 
commands a finer view than on any of the other lakes 
it passes, except Skeneateles. The banks are high 
i.nd varie£ratea. and at the distance of two or three 



//.» O 3^ 'iT JL M Jl (D 





I iiiiies, rise to an imposing height, and add a great de- 
gree of beauty to the scene. A number of gentle- 
men's seats are seen along the western bank ; and a 
1 little way off in the lake on the same side, is a small 
'yocky island, where the Seneca Indians carried all 
'their women, children, and old men, when Gen. Sulli- 
;van appeared against them. 

I The new steamboat Lady of the Lake began 
to run regularly on Canandaigua Lake in 18'37 ; and 
a hotel was to be built at the head of it. It is on the 
j Annesley plan — that is, built entireljr of boards with- 
lOut the use of timbers. — A railroad is to be made to 
the Canal. 

Stage coaches go to Rochester every day. 

BURNING SPRINGS. 

Springs of water, charged with inflammable gas, 
are quite common in Bristol, Middlesex, and Canan- 
daigua. 

The gas from the former rises through fissures of the 
slate, fiom both the margin and the bed of the brook. 

Their places are known by the little hillocks of a 
few feet in diameter, and a few inches high, formed 
of a dark bituminous mould, through which it tinds its 
way to the surface, in one or more currents. These 
currents of gas may be set on fire, and will burn with 
a steady flame. In winter they form openings through 
the snow, and being set on fire, exhibit the novel and 
interesting phenomenon of a steady and lively flame 
in contact with nothing but snow. In very cold wea-, 
ther, it is said, tubes of ice are formed round these 
currents of gas, (probably from the freezing of the 
water contained in it,) which sometimes rise to the 
height of two or three feet, the gas issuing from their 
tops ; the whole, when lighted in a stil! evening, pre- 
senting an appearance even more beautiful than the 
former. 

From a pit which was sunk in one of the hillocks. 



Wij liOtrii l'Ko3I ^NIAGARA iO ALEA.N V . 

the gas was conducted through bored logs, to ihekilcher 
of a dwelling. The novelty of the spectacle attracted 
a concourse of visiters, so great that the proprietors 
found it expedient to convert their dwelling into 
a public inn. 

The road between Canandaigua and Geneva passe;? 
over a singular tract of countr}-, the form of which 
will not fail to be remarked by an observant traveller. 
The ground gradually rises by large natural terraces, 
or steps, for about half the distance, and descends in 
the same manner on the other side to Seneca Lake. 
These steps, or terraces, appear to have been formed 
by those strong currents of water of which geologist- 
speak, which at some ancient period of time have evi 
dently passed over many tracts of country in different 
parts of the world. The ridges and channels thus 
formed here stretch north and south, frequently to a 
considerable distance, corresponding both in form and 
direction with the numerous lakes which are found in| 
this part of the state. Several ancient tbrtitications | 
have been traced here. From the middle ridge the 
view is extensive ; but the surrounding country is of 
too uniform a surface to present any remarkable variety 
of scenery. 

GENEVA. 

This town occupies a charming situation at the loot 
of Seneca Lake, and for a mile along its western bank, 
which rises to a considerable elevation above the sur- 
face, and affords room for a broad and level street. 
The buildings in this village are remarkably neat and 
handsome. 

A college has lately been instituted in this place, i 
The building is of stone, with 26 rooms for students, a | 
chapel, and librar)^ It is warmed only by sloxesg | 
Rev. J. Adams is president. ■. j 

The steamboat Seneca Chief, in 1829, ran daily to i 
Jeffersonville, (at the head of the lake,) and back 
again, oiferinp: ♦bo traYcller an ai^rc^able excursion- 



Dresden and Ovid. 12 miles from Gene%'a, are op- 
posite each otlier. The former stands at the outlet of 
Crooked Lake. The Penyan descends nearly 400 

' eet, aftbrdin^ excellent mill seats. South from this is 

iihe former abode of Jemima Wilkinson. 

' Strakie's Point is 6^ miles south of Rapelyea's Ferry. 

'The shore is there very bold, so that the Seneca Chief 

i~an pass within a k\v leet of the land. Much lumber 

^!s exported from this place, brought from Eddystown, 

which is a mile inland. 

Big Stream Point, 4 miles. Here is a fall in a tri- 

jbutary of this beautiful lake, of 136 feet, by whieti 

tscveral mills are supplied. 

The eastern shore is generally handsomely culti- 
t-ated; but near the head of the lake, on the western 

• ?ide, about 15 miles of the shore is covered with forest. 

[The land rises, and becomes rough and hilly. 

Hector^s Fallsj 3 miles from the lake, are 150 feet 

j;n height, and supply several mills. Jeffersonville and 

Uiarana are two villages at the head of the lake. 

J [Travelling southward from Geneva. A line of stage 

':oaches goes, in connexion with tlie steamboat, from 
Greneva, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, via 
Bath, Painted Post, Lawrenceville, Willardsburg, Ca- 

hal Port to Trout Run, and via Elmira and Troy to 

Trout Run, on the other days of the week — and daily, 

j 'except Sundays,) from Trout Run through Williams- 
port, Pennsborough, Milton, Northumberland, Sunbuiy, 
Selinsgrove, Liverpool to Harrisburg. From Harris- 

'3urg a line runs every day through to Philadelphia — 
md one daily, (except Sundays,) to Baltimore and 

HVashington City— through in^ve days. Returns in 
:he same way. At Northumberland it intersects a line 
hat runs three times a week to Wilkesbarre : at Wil- 
iamsport, a line that runs to Bellefonte, Alexandria, 
ind intersects the Pittsburg line : at Elmira it intersects 
i line running to Ithaca, Owego and Montrose : at 
Bath, a line to Angelica and Glean Point, and one to 

J Da n-^v) 11 p. Op ne'=po. Rochester, FnfTaln. and Niagara 



! 



120 ROUTE FEOM JylAGAKA TO ALBANY. 

Falls. At Geneva, this line intersects 4 daily lines 
running east and west, and also 3 daily lines running- 
north to the Erie canal. 

The journey from Geneva or Rochester to Baltimore, 
is performed by this line in five days, by daylight, 
passing through a fine, healthy, and highly cultivated 
country, travelling upwards of 100 miles on the beau- 
tiful banks of the Susquehannah, and about 50 miles 
on the bank of the Pennsylvania canal.] 

Seneca Lake is 35 miles long, and about 3 or 4 wide* 
Its depth is unusually great, and the water clear and 
very cold, to which is referred the scarcity of fish 
There is a remarkable phenomenon long observed by 
those who reside near it, which has never been satis- 
factorily accounted for. The water has a regular risejf 
and fall every seven years. 

The Chemung Canal is to be made from the head wa-' 
ters of this lake to the Chemung river, with a feeder. 

A stage coach runs from Geneva up the east side of 
the lake, and then crosses to the head of Cayuga lake, 
to the village of Ithaca ; but the road is not interesting, ^ 
and the more agreeable mode of reaching that village | 
is by taking the steamboat at Cayuga bridge, 14 miles 
from Geneva, on the great mail route. 

The Cayuga and Seneca Canal, which was com- 
pleted in 1828, has opened boat navigation between 
these lakes and the Erie canal, and a packet line was 
to run to Troy, early in 1829. 

The Cayuga and Seneca Canal passes through Wa- 
terloo, from Geneva down the valley of Seneca Miver 
to Montezuma, on the Erie canal. It is 20 miles and 
24 chnins in length, of which ten miles is an inde- 
pendent canal, and the remainder a slack water navi- 
gation. It has 7 locks, being 73^ feet lockage, 19 
bridges, 5 safety gates, 5 dams, G culverts, 17 miles of 
fence, 3 lock houses, and 1 collector's office. 

Cayuga Lake is 40 miles in length, and generally 
about 2 in breadth. A fine bridge is built across it 
near the northeni end, where it is a mile Avide. The 



ITHACA A?vD OSWEGO KAILROAD. 12' 



steamboats Telemacbus and Experiment ply between 
' I^ayu^a bridge and Ithaca, at the head of the lake. 
i The former is on Annesley's plan, and canies only 

lassengers. The De Witt Clinton is a new boat, on 

'he same plan ; 100 feet long, with three cabins, a 

>romenade, large enough to accommodate a con- 

iderable number of passengers, and is frequently 

crowded with parties from the neighbouring country, 
/IS well as travellers, as the excursion is one of the 
; )leasantest that can be taken in this part of the state. 
jj t also connects several lines of stage coaches, which 
jhe traveller will do well to notice if he wishes to go 
to Catskill, JVewburg, JVeTs^-York^ or New- Jersey, by 

he most direct routes. These routes will be noticed 

)n arriving^ at Ithaca. 
^ The price of a passage in the steamboat is one 

lollar. A little before arriving at the head of the lake, 
>; beautiful waterfall is seen on the left hand, where a 
^:tream of water flows over a very high precipice into 
]i deep glen, and forces its way along, turning several 
laluable mills in its course. The landing place is 
jibout three miles from the village of Ithaca, but lumber 
boats can pass the bar at the mouth of the inlet, and 
proceed up to the street. 
( The village of Ithaca is neat and flourishing. Here 

centre three roads to Catskill, JVewburg, and New- 
iV^ork. The first leads nearly in a direct line to the 
Hudson River, the second passes the Great Bend of 

he Delaware, and the third furnishes daily the shortest 
;oute to New- York. 
\ The Cascade. This beautiful and romantic scene, 

ibout 3 miles from the village, is one of the most pic- 
liiresque that can be imagined. The height and so- 
lemnity of the surrounding rocks, the darkness of their 
I shadows, and the beauty of the sparkling spray, unite 
' o produce an impression of pleasure which is rarely 

3xperienced at the sight of any scene, however extra- 
i )rdinary for beauty or sublimity. The Fall river de- 

5cends 438 feet in a mile. The Great Fall i« 116 f^et. 
L 2 



1^22 KOUTE PKOM KIAGARA TO ALBAKV. 

The other falls in tliis vicinity are the Cascadilla, 
Tauqkanic, (262 feet,) Six Mile creek, Buttermilk, &c. 

Ithaca and Oswego Railroad. The legislature, in 
1828, passed an act authorizing the construction of a 
railroad trorn this place to the Susquehannah river at 
Oswego. The distance is about 30 miles ; the expense 
is estiujated at $120,000, or $4,000 a mile. This is 
one-fourth more than tlie Mauch Chunk railway cost, 
and the sa ne price as that estimated for the Hudson 
and Delaware Railway, the rails for which have been 
imported from England. The soil and surface are 
favourable ; labour and materials cheap ; and the 
amount of produce which would pass that way from 
the neighbouiing country, is estimated at 12,000 tons 
annually, which alone would pay 16 per cent, on the 
cost. To this ought to be added about 10,000 tons oi 
plaster and salt. The market for lumber is best at 
New- York- 500 tons of plaster and salt are now 
annually transported from Ithaca to Oswego by land, 
and sent down tlie Susquehannah. 

In consequence of the earlier opening of navigation 
on the Susquehannah, in the spring, than on the Erie 
canal, and its being closed later in the fall, great ad- 
vantages, it is thought, would be obtained by Balti- 
more ; and even the fact that the navigation is longer 
free on the western than the eastern part of that canal 
every year, would probably divert a considerable 
amount of transportation to this route. It is stated 
that the freight of a barrel of whiskey or pork from 
Ithaca to Baltimore, would be only 92 cents ; while 
it is $1 19 to New-York by the Erie canal. 

The Cayuga and Susquehannah Canal. The route 
proposed is from Cayuga lake, near the mouth of 
Cascadilla, through Ithaca, along Mud Creek and the 
valley of the Oswego, to the Susquehannah. The 
amount of lockage is 760 feet ; the distance 31 miles ; 
and the estimated expense 320,000 dollars. 

Auburn is another beautiful village, and merits the 
name it has borrowed from Goldsmith's charmins: 



STATE PRISON. 123 

Ijr'oetiy. It is unfortunately placed at some distance 
•om the lake, and therefore is deprived of the pic- 
iresque character which it might have enjoyed, 
'here is a Theological Seminary in Auburn, which has a 

' ood number of students. There are several handsome 

- ublic buildings in this place, but the most important 

•:? the 

i State Prison. 

:\ 

3 This institution, having been managed by Mr. Lynds, 
ind established on his system, so excellent, so cele- 
m^ated, and with remarkable success, merits particular 
ijotice. 

5 The old Auburn prison was built in 1817, and cost 
Jiibout $300,000 ; it is constructed upon the plan of a 
Jiiollow square, inclosed by a wall of 2000 feet in extent, 
, ^eing 500 feet on each side, and, for the most part, 35 
-feet in height. The north wing of the building differs 
i eiy much in its construction from any building of the 
i{j;ind, and the use of which is conceived to be one of 
rjhe greatest improvements in prisons, and one of the 
)est aids to prison discipline, which have been any 
.vhere made. The workshops are built against the 
nside of the outer wall, fronting towards the yard, 
from which every shop is visible, forming a continued 
:"ange of 940 feet. With such alterations as it may 
I -indergo, it can be made to hold 1100 convicts. At 
][he close of 1829, it contained 639. 
? " The new building contains 400 cells, and covers onlj^ 
1 206 by 46 feet of ground. There are 5 stories of cells, 
each containing eighty in two parallel lines, divided 
in the middle by a wail two feet thick. The walls 
between the ceils are one foot thick. The cells 
are 7 feet long, 7 high, and 3| wide, intended to re- 
Iceive only one convict in each. Each cell has a ven- 
tilator extending to the roof, and is so constructed in 
I front, that the prisoners can neither converse or make 
signs to earh othop. The area around the cells is ten 



124 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBAKX. 

feet wide and open to the roor,\vhich covers the galle- 
ries of the several stories. Besides the moral benefit 
arising from keeping the prisoners separate, it unites 
that of economy and security. From the construction of 
the prison, 5 small stoves, 6 large and 13 small lamps, all 
out of reach of the convicts, afford heat and light to 555 
cells ; and one sentinel is sufficient to 400 prisoners. 

The discipline only requires to be seen to be duly 
appreciated. The conduct of the prisoners while at 
their labour, and their quietness under the privations 
of the prison, prove that the discipline is complete 
and effective ; and the main cause of the order and 
decorum thus observed, is, that in all matters of disci- 
pline, there is but one head or principal." 

Minute observations on the comparative labour of 
a free person and a convict show that the latter does' 
not accomplish as much in a day as the former. In 
this prison, under the direction of Mr. Lynds, (now 
superintendent of the Singsing prison,) the great system 
of reformation in discipline commenced. 

The pardoning power is now exercised with great 
caution by the executive ; for perhaps no circumstance 
has so much contributed to do away the terrors of 
punishment as the facilities afforded the worst part of 
our species in obtaining a pardon. 

Ancient Fortifications. There are some remains of 
ancient fortifications in the vicinity of this place, as 
well as in the neighbouring towns of Camillus, Onon- 
daga, and Pompey. 

If the traveller should wish to take the canal, a 
stage coach goes every day to Weed's Basin, 8 miles, 
and carries passengers for 50 cents, to meet the canal 
boats, which pass at stated periods. 

FROM AUBURN TO SYRACUSE, 

By the Canal, 34 miles. 

(Stage coach to Weed's Basin,) .... 8 milest 
Jordan village, in Camillus tov^nship, . . 6 



FEOM SYRACUSE TO UTIC'A. I i) 

.1 proposition has been made for a canal from 
Jordan to Homer, on the Susquehannah, 
which has been found practicable. The dis- 
tance is 34 miles, of which, only 14 will re- 
quire to be dug. 

^anton, (half-way village between Buffalo and 
Albany, 179 miles from the former, and 183 
from the latter,) 6 mile^^. 

xeddes village, (with salt works,) . . 12 

Syracuse, - 

By the Road, 28 miles. 

skeneatelcs, 8 

Vlarcellus, 6 

'3nondaga, 10 

'Syracuse, 4 

' Syracuse. For a description of this place, as well 

' is of Salina, the Salt Spring, and Salt Manufactories, 

lee page 69. 

i Although the routes east of Syracuse, both by the 
:anal and by the road, are given in other places, and 
ilthough they may be traced on the maps, it may 
lerhaps be convenient to have them repeated in the 
'eversed order, for travellers going tov^'ards Albany. 

]' For places see Index.) 

FROM SYRACUSE TO UTICA, 

By the Canal, 61 miles. 

I ^lanlius Landing,* . . ." 9 

iChitteningo Creek, 8 

[ -\t Chitteningo is an Academy where some of 

the higher branches are taught. (A curious 

petrified tree near this place, a few steps 

from the canal, was found with many of its 

' branches.) 

« About 20 yards from tlio canal, Gvpsum 'plaster »><' Pnvi'^" is; oVt- 
*ain<^i1 fn massp? of fvmri 1 to 100 ton*. " 



126 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 

Canastota village and basin, 8 miles* 

Oneida creek, 3 

Wood creek, 13 

Rome, 3 

Oriskany village, 8 

Whitesborough, 3 

Utica, . 4 

By the Road, 48 miles. 

Derne, ti 

Manlius, 3 

Sullivan, 9 

Vernon, 11 

Westmoreland, 6 

New-Hartford, 7 

Utica, 4 

For Utica, Hamilton College, and Trenton Falls, see 
page 62. 

FROM UTICA TO SCHENECTADY, 

By the Canal, 79^ miles. 

Lock, No. 53 (end of the long level, which 
begins westward at Salina, and extends to 
this place, 69i miles, without a lock,) . . 9 
Bridge over the Mohawk, and Herkimer vil- 
lage, 5 

Little Falls, 8 

Fall Hill, a mountain on the right, 518 feet 
higher than the canal, 712 above high water 
in the Hudson River, and about 145 above 

Lake Erie, 1 

Old Mohawk Castle, 5 

Fort Plain, 9^ 

Canajoharie, 4 

A railway has been proposed, to run hence 



ay 
tsk 



toCatskill 60 



IKOll SCHEIE ECTAl>i* TO ALBAir. 121 

Anthony's Nose, 5 miles. 

(This scene is represented in the plate from this 
side. The bluff on the right is Anthony's Nose, on the 
top of which a remarkable cavern opens, extending 
further down than it has ever been explored.) 

Schoharie Creek, 11 

Amsterdam Village, (across the river,) . . 5 

Flint Hill, 6 

Rotterdam Flats, 8 

Schenectady, 3 

Road to Mhany, \oh miles. Numerous coaches 
JO every day. A railroad is to be constructed. 

Road to Ballston and Saratoga. Both these roads 
Dffer the shortest and most expeditious communication 
with the places to which they conduct, and if the tra- 
veller should be in pressing haste, he should avail 
limself of them. 

To travellers of leisure and taste, however, the canal 
3oats are recommended to the Mohawk bridge, al- 
hough they are liable to many delays at the numerous 
ocks along this difficult but interesting part of the canal. 

FROM SCHENECTADY TO ALBANY, 

" By the Canal, 2Sh miles. 

^Alexander's Bridge, (on the turnpike road to 

Albany and Boston — an interesting scene,) 4h 
Upper Aqueduct, (on which the canal crosses 

the Mohawk,) i 

The Young Engineer, a rock on the right, so 
called, where the cutting is the deepest on 

the whole route, viz. 3-3 ket, 4 

Wat Hoix Gap, 5i 

(A natural channel, through which the canal is led 
iiore than 200 yards. The rocks are graywackc 
1 ;late. In the river is the Wat Hoix Rapid, which the 
ll'ndians called the Evil Spirit, and sometimes the 
!► White Hon:e.) 
I' 



iit; llOUTE FROM xMAtiAliA To ALliAiNi. 

Lower Aqueduct, 1188 feet lonp;-, on which the 
canal crosses tlie Mohawk ag^ain, on 24 stone 

abutments and piers, 2i iniie,'- 

The four Locks, 8 feet each, and Cohoes Falls, 2 

The two Locks, 9 feet each, ■} 

The three Locks, and the Cohoes Bridge 

over the Mohawk, } 

(Hence to Waterford, on the road to Ballston, Sara- 
toga, &.C. is about a Diiile and a half, where stage 
coaches are continually passing in the visiting seasoi|. 
By leaving the boat here, or a little below, where tii 
canal meets the road, a seat may frequently be found, 
in a passing coach, to Waterford or the Springs ; or 
some may prefer to take a boat on the Northern Canal, 
which is close at hand. We shall take up the land 
route after giving the few remaining objects on the 
Avay to Albany, and referring the reader to page 39 for 
a description of that city.) 
The Junction, where the Northern Canal, 
from Lake Champlain meets the Erie Canal, i 

West Troy, 1 

(Here is a cluster of buildings about the basin- 
where the Troy boats lie. The Lift Lock has been 
before described. The dam across the Mohawk wil" 
afford an easy communication^ Letween the canal and 
Troy, which is seen on tht opposite side. A gooo 
horse feriyboat plies below.) 

United States' Arsenal, 1 

The Manor House of Gen. Van Rensselaer, 

called Rensselaerwyck, 5 

Albany, 1 



WATERJj'OliJ^. l^i) 



ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. 

I' [For the Road and Canal between Albany and VVa- 
■terford, see page 47, and onward.] 

j WATERFORD. 

t This village is situated on the western side of the 

)(Hudson, across which the communication is convenient 

Ijby means of the first bridge we have seen over this 

ir-'iver. Lansingburgh stands opposite, and is a place 

)-)( considerable size. The streets of Waterford are 

I .vide, regular, and handsornely built. Some of the 

), private houses are remarkable for their neatness^ 

There are numerous rocky islands with precipitous 

ides, at the mouth of the Mohawk River, which are 

jieen at a little distance below the bridge. The boats 

)n the Champlain Canal enter the Mohawk in full view 

)f them, through guard locks, and are poled across ; 

he current being stopped by a dam. During the warm 

eason of the year, Waterford is a great thoroughfare, 

ying on two roads to Albany, as well as in the way 

,0 both Ballston and Saratoga Springs, Lake Georgey 

ic. It is 2U miles to Ballston Springs, and 24 to 

Saratoga. 

The approach to the village from the south-west, by 
he canal and the road, is uncommonly beautiful. It 
ies quite below you, with a little meadow in front, 
bounded by the canal and the Hudson, its white houses 
ningled with fine trees, and Diamond Hill rising be- 
'ind, with its sides half cultivated, and half covered 
pith woods. 
A few chrystals are found on Diamond Hill. 
Inn. Demarest's Stage House. 
The shortest road from Waterford to Ballston 
;prings is through Newtown, 18^ miles. It passes 
• ci' higher land than that through Mechanicville, and 
M 



130 ROUTE TO THE SPRIKGS. 

perhaps is not more sandy, but is not furnished with 
stage coaches. The usual road will be given afterward* 

On leaving Walerford it verges to the west, and 
rises to an elevation of considerable height, which 
affords a view towards the south over a charming 
piece of country : the high, half-cultivated range of 
hills, which extend some miles down the Hudson in 
the rear of Lansingburgh and Troy, together with a 
broad strip of land on each side of the river, including 
the tract on the west bank, divided by parts of the 
Champlain ana Erie canals, and the mouth of the 
Mohawk river. From ;vvo miles further on, Saddle 
Mountain appears in view in the east, with a single 
peak more in the north, and at a still greater distance^ 
Much of this road is sandy, and a great deal of wheal 
and clover is cultivated. 

Newtown^ Sj miles from Waterford. 

Half Moon, 4. From this place, the Catskill Moun- 
tains are plainly visible in clear weather. 

Second Inn in Half Moon, 4. 

About 3 miles beyond this place, the view opens^ 
and shows that the traveller is in a kind of amphi* 
theatre : the Greenheld Mountains in the weststretch<» 
jng far away towards the north, and the Vermont 
mountains in the east, which seem to approach thera 
as the)'^ retire, with several fine and prominent peaks, 'i 

Particularly one which is about three miles beyond \ 
ennington, Vt., famous for the defeat of Col. Baum, 
in the Revolution. Afterward the road passes near 
Ballston village, but without affording a sight of it. 
The Springs, being situated in a little valley, two 
miles beyond, the first intimation you have of your 
approach is the sight of several tall evergreens, and a 
small pleasure house on the top of a sharp hill, in the 
rear of Aldndge's boarding-house. 



STILLWATER- KJl 



sFrom Waterford to the Springs, by Me- 
chanicville. 

This is the usual road, but offers few objects of 
^ interest. 

I Mechanicville, or the Borough^ 8i miles from Wa- 
' terford. Here the coaches g:enerally stop for breakfast 
'or dinner. Near at hand is a Cotton Manufactory, 
iwhence the place derives its former name. 
• Dunning-street. — Here is a little viiJage, at which 
' the road turns off west for the Springs. About a mile 
'south of it we cross the Northern canal. 

[Stillwater is 3 miles above, and 4 miles beyond that 

is Smithes Tavern^ where those will stop who wish to 

(visit the battle ground, at Bemis's Heights.] 

I Although the great crowd of travellers on this road 

will take the route to Ballston or Saratoga, yet as they 

tlwill find few objects of any interest, it may be proper 

jto introduce, in this place, an account of the expedition 

■ of Gen. Burgoyne, and the battle of Bemis's Heights, 

pften known by the name of the battle of Saratoga ; 

as we are within a few miles of the field. 

Stillwater takes its name from the smoothness and 
quietness of the Hudson, which there spreads out over 
a broad surface, and hardly shows any appearance of 
^a current. It is the place to which Gen. Schuyler 
I retreated at the approach of Gen. Burgoyne, after 
' removing all the stores, driving away the cattle, and 
throwing all possible obstacles in his way ; afterward 
retiring to the island at the mouth of the Mohawk : 
and through this place, Gen. Gates, who sodo after 
succeeded him in the command, marched up from 
Half Moon to take position on Bemis's Heights. 

The reader is referred to the Maps, to observe the 
importance of the tract of country which lies along 
the route we have just entered upon. From Canada 



ioii ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. 

to the head of Lake Champiain there is an uninter- 
rupted water communication, by which troops and 
every thing necessary to an army may be transported 
with the utmost facility. A. short land carriage reaches 
Lake George. Wood Creek, at the south end of 
Champiain, is navigable in boats to Fort Anne, which 
is only 9 miles distant irom Fort Edward, on Hudson 
river, whence the navigation is open to New-York. 
Here have consequently been many of the most im- 
portant military operations which have ever been 
carried on in the United States. The first battle 
within this region, of which history gives any account, 
was fought between the French and the Five Nations 
of Indians, soon after the settlement of Canada, when 
the latter first learned the terrible effect of gunpowder, 
and began to flee from the approach of civilization. 
In the numerous expeditions which at subsequent pe- 
riods were undertaken by the British against Canada, 
this route was taken in the attack, and not unfrequently 
in the retreat. The important events of the war of 
1755 were almost confined to this region ; and the 
Revolution and the last war with England produced 
scenes which will be touched upon in their places. 

The first period to which we shall refer, is that of 
ihe Revolution ; and the first scene, that of the battle 
of Saratoga, or Bemis's Heights, towards which we are 
fast approaching. 

" I could here," says Dr. Dwight, " almost forget that 
Arnold became a traitor to his country, and satisfy 
myself with recollecting, that to his invincible gal- 
lantry, and that of the brave officers and soldiers whom 
he led, my country was, under God, indebted, in a 
prime degree, for her independence, and all its con- 
sequent blessings. I should think an American, par- 
ticularly an inhabitant of New-England or New-York, 
little to be envied, whose patriotism did not gain force 
upon the heights of Stillwater, or the plains of Sara- 
toga. These scenes I have examined : the former 
with solemnity and awe. the latter with ardour and 



burgoyne's expedition. 133 

admiration, and both with enthusiasm and rapture. 
Here I have remembered, and here it was impossible 
not to remember, that on this very spot a controversy 
was decided, upon which hung the liberty and happi- 

Iness of a nation destined one day to fill a continent; 
and of its descendants, who will probably hereafter 

t outnumber the inhabitants of Europe." 

BURGOYNE'S EXPEDITION. 

I Gen. Burgoyne* was appointed Governor of Canada, 
|in 1777, to sucieed Sir Guy Carlton. He arrived at 

Quebec in May, and reached Crown Point June 20th. 

Gen. Phillips was sent to Ticonderoga with the British 

* General Burgoyne. — {From an Englt.^h Work.) — It is curious, that 
a man of such celebrity as ri writer, a senator, and an officer, as the late 
Lieut. John Burgoyne, should be found among the number of those of 
whose youthful days no memorial has been preserved. Neither the 
time, place, nor circumstances of his birth are known. Ev«n his pa- 
I rentage is doubtful. He is said, but upon what authority it does not 
appear, to have been a natural son of that Lord Bingly, who died at an 
' advanced age in 1774. That he had the advantage of a liberal educa- 
I f ion, and early intercourse with polished society, is sufficiently evident 
from his writings; and it is probable that he was ear'y devoted to the 
j profession of arms, for on the 10th of May, 1759, he was raised to the 
; rank of Lieut. Colonel, and in the August of the ensuing year, he was 
appointed Lieut. Col. Commandant of the 16th Light Dragoons. His 
after services at dilFerent periods, iu Spain, Portugal, and America, are 
all well known, especially the unfortunate termination of his military 
career at Saratoga, which, though it tarnished not his honour, cast a 
i shade over his brow, ever afterward conspicuous to the physiognomical 
1 5ye. He made, on certain occasions, no ordinary figure in Parliament. 
He moved in the first circles, and married Lady Charlotte Stanley, a 
daughter of the Earl of Derby ; and yet we know not who and what he 
:)riginally was. He was the author of four successful dramas: the 
Maid of the Oak, the Lord of the Manor, Richard Cceur de Lion, and 
I 'he comedy of the Heiress; and yet the curiosity of hi.-; biographer, even 

Iin this anecdote-dealing and memoir-sil'ting age, cannot trace his origin 
or the scenes of his education. The tale^ of the Lord of the Manor 
leems, in some degree, to have been disguised in the modification of the 
character and circumstances by the incident of his own matrimonial 
Jj connexion : for his was a clandestine and unauthorized marriage, at a 
j '.ime when he held only a subaltern's commission in tho army ; and is 
^jaid to have excited at first the resentment of the lady's father to such a 
degree, that he declared his resoiution never to admit the offenders into 
1 his presence, though, in process of time, the anger of the Earl subsided, 
a reconciliation was effected, and was succeeded by a warm and lasting 
attachment. It is probable, also, that the memory of his ladv, who died 
M 2 



134 KOUTE TO THE SPKINGS. 

light wing ; and the outposts and the fort were sue* 
cessively abandoned by the Americans. The news 
of the evacuation of this place was a most disheart- 
ening piece of intelligence to the country. It had 
been confidently hoped that an effectual resistance 
would there be offered to a force which threa ened the 
liberty of America ; or at all events, that an heroic 
stand would be made at that important post, which 
had so long been regarded as an almost impregnable 
fortress. 

During his delay, Gen. Schuyler obstructed the 
channel of Wood creek, remoxed every thing valuable 
from the country, and took the stores from Fort George 
to Fort Edward ; sending for regular troops, and calling 
for the militia of the neighbouring states, both which 
were supplied. Gen. Arnold and Col. Morgan joined 
liim with a body of riflemen, and Gen. Lincoln with 
the New-England militia ; and he fell back to Sara- 
toga and Stillwater. 

Battle of Bennington.* 

While these preparations were making for a general 
engagement, the battle ol Bennington occurred, which 
must now be introduced to preserve the order of time. 
Being in want of provisions, Gen. Burgoyne had de- 

in 1776, at Kensington Palace, during his absence in America, is em- 
balmed by the affectionate regrets of the General, in that beautiful air 
jn The first act of that opera : 

'Encompassed in an ansel's frame, 

An angel's virtues lay : 
Too soon did heaven assert the claim. 
And call its own away. 

I\Iy Anna's worth, my Anna's charms, 

iVIust never more return! 
What now shall fill these widow'd arms 1 

Ah, me ! my Anna's urn :" 

* In Bennington is an iron mine- %^ bich produces excellent ore. V&7 
<;ood pis iron i= forced thpr;;> 



! UATTLE OP SARATOGA. 133 

sp^tched Lt. Col. Baum, with his Hessians, to seize the 
pubhc stores at Benning:ton. He was supported by 
Lt. Col. Brechman, who stopped at Baten Kill. Brig. 
Gen. Stark with the New -Hampshire troops, joined by 
iCoi. Warner, attacked Col. Baum at the VVallomsack 
river, where they were encamped, July 16th, (1777,) 
and in two h )urs, forced their works, and completely 
defeated them. Col. Warner began the attack on Col. 
Brechman, wounded him mortally, and took him pri- 
soner, and put his troops to flight. 
I Two hundred and twenty-six of the British troops 
\weTe killed at the battle of Bennington, or rather the 
3attle of Hoosac, as it was fought in that town. Seven 
lundred soldiers were taken prisoners, and thirty-six 
officers. 

To return to the principal scene of action. Gen. 
jates now received the command of the American 
roops, which had been greatly reinforced ; and 
narching them from the east side of (he Hudson river, 
)pposite Half Moon, to Stillwater, on the west side, 
i ook a position on Bemis's Heights. 

BEMIS'S HEIGHTS, 

I A ridge of elevated ground, beginning on the left, 
ibout a quarter of a mile from the river, and stretching 
)ff towards the north-west, offered great advantages 
or the defence of the road. 

' Gen. Gates\<i Camp was about half a mile from the 
load on the left, and his quarters were in a house 
i vhich is yet standing, although very old. A by-road 
jeads to he place; and the traveller, if he is able, 
Ivill find himself repaid by examining the old intrench- 
nents, and afterward proceeding along the heights, 
■vhich were occupied by the American troops. By 
jTtiaking a considerable circuit by a road, in some places 
I'ough, he may ride over the encampment and the 
i scenes of the two battles, and then come back to the 
*/ivep at Smith's little tavern, three miles above this 



1^6 ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. 

place, or cross over to the Springs. The space be- 
tween the river and the brow of tne hill was crossed 
by a deep inlrenchment defended with artillery, and 
almost impracticable. ^ 

The American Lines, three-quarters of a mile lonff^ 
were furnished with a breastwork of logs, (the hills 
being almost entirely a forest, )and the left terminated 
opposite the enemy'^s right. From the left almost to 
the centre, the ground is level, and was partly cleared, 
yet much encumbered with fallen and girdled trees. 
An opening, left of the centre, had a battery — thence 
a ravine ran to the right. 

Near the house once occupied by Gen. Gates, and 
close by a rail fence, are seen some remains of the 
intrenchments which defended the American camp.- 
The view from many parts of this elevated ground is 
extensive and delie;!:!ul, embracing the fertile shores 
and uplands of the Hudson, with many surrounding 
hills and distant mountains. ' 

It will be recollected, that the expedition under Sif 
Henry Clinton, who proceeded up Hudson river td 
Kingston, was intended to co-operate with Gen. Bur- 
goyne, but failed to produce the effect. 

The British Lines stretched from a hill opposite the 
American left, in a straight line across the meadow to 
the Hudson river. The following account of their 
approach from Lake George is from Gen. Wilkinson's 
Memoirs. 

" Gen. Burgoyne crossed the Hudson river the 13th 
and 14th of September, and advanced with great cir- 
cumspection on the 15th from Saratoga to Davocote, 
where he halted to repair bridges in his front. The 
16th was employed in this labour, and in reconnoi^ 
tring : on the 17th he advanced a mile or two, resumed 
his march on the 18th, and Gen. Arnold was detached 
by Gen. Gates, with 1500 men, to harass him ; but 
after a light skirmish, he returned without loss, or 
effecting any thing more than picking up a few strag- 
glers ; and the enemy moved forward, and encamped 



BATTLE OP SARATOGA- J 37 

J in two lines, about two miles from Gen. Gates; his 
[ left on the river, and his right extending at right 
j angles to it, across the low grounds about six hundred 
yards, to a range of steep and lofty heights occupied 
by his elite, having a creek or gulley in his front, made 
\ by a rivulet which issued from a great ravine formed 
J by the hills, which ran in a direction nearly parallel 
jto the river, until within half a mile of the American 
jcamp." 

The Northern or Champlain canal, and the coach 

road, now cross the ground occupied by the American 

right, and soon afterward that occupied by the British 

jiines. About half a mile south of the latter is the 

(house of Major Buel, who served as a guide to the 

_l,roops, and now conducts travellers to the field. He 

^is old and poor, but strong and active. 

j The Battle Ground is on an elevated plain, about 

^{wo miles above General Gates's camp, ^nd the same 

i distance west from Smith's tavern. It may be taken 

^in the way trom the Springs, but it is better to go first 

J to Smith's for a guide, and to take or prepare for 

i efreshment. From Smith's to the battle ground, the 

oad is quite romantic, along the south side of Cum- 

ningskill, with a steep bank on each side for part of 

;be distance. Here Burgoyne marched up to extend 

ais right, and turn the American left. The open 

^ ground at the end is the field of battle. 

The most severe fighting in the first battle was at 
i little knoll, in a field on the south, passing two fences. 

Battle of Skpt. 19th. 

In the morning, it was reported by Col. Colburn, 
J^ho was watching the enemy, that they were begin- 
ling to ascend the hill towards the American left, 
jen. Gates sent Col. Morgan to oppose them, and the 
iring began about noon. The action extended, and 
n three hours was general, and continued without 
■pterruption till dark. The American troops engaged 

r 



138 ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. 

amounted to 3000 ; the British to 3500. The following; 
account is from General Wilkinson. 

" This battle was perfectly accidental ; neither of 
the ffenerals meditated an attack at the time, and but 
for Lieut. Col. Colburn's report, it would not have 
taken place ; Burgoyne's movement beinp: nverely to 
take groutuj on the heights in front of the great ravine, 
to give his several corps their proper places in line, to 
embrace our front and cover his transport, stores, pro- 
visions, and baggage, in the rear of his left ; and on 
our side, the defences of our camp being not half com- 
pleted, and reinforcements daily arriving, it was not 
General Gates's policy to court an action. The mis- 
conception of the adverse chiefs put them on the de- 
fensive, and confined them to the ground they casually 
occupied at the beginning of the action, and prevented 
a single manoeuvre, during one of the longest, warmest, 
and most obstinate battles fought in America. 

" The theatre of action was such, that although the 
combatants changed ground a dozen times in the course 
of the day, the contest terminated on the spot where it 
began. The British line was formed on an eminence 
in a thin pine wood, having before it Freeman's farm, 
an oblong field, stretching from its centre towards its 
right, the ground in front sloping gently down to the 
verge of this field, which was bordered on the oppo- 
site side by a close wood. The sanguinary scene lay 
in the cleared ground, between the eminence occupied 
by the enemy, and the wood just described. The fire 
ot our marksmen from this wood was too deadly to be 
withstood by the enemy in line, and when they gave 
way and broke, our men, rushing from their covert, 
pursued them to the eminence, where, having their 
flanks protected, they rallied, and, charging in turn, 
drove us back into the wood, from whence a dreadful 
fire would again force them to fall back ; and in this 
manner did the battle fluctuate, like the waves of a 
stormy sea, with alternate advantage tor four hours^ 
without one moment's intermission. The British artil- 



iJATTliE OF bAUATOGA. JoH 

iery fell into our possession at every charge, but we 
;ould neither turn the pieces upon the enemy, nor 
)ring them off; the wood prevented the last, and the 
;vant of a match the first, as the linstock was invaria- 
i)ly carried off, and the rapidity of the transitions did 
lot allow us time to provide one. The slaughter of 
his brigade of artillerists was remarkable, the captain 
md thirty-six men being killed or wounded out of 
orty-eight. It was truly a gallant conflict, in which 
leath by familiarity lost his terrors, and certainly a 
Irawn battle, as night alone terminated it ; the British 
jirmy keeping its ground in rear of the field of liction. 
|.nd our corps, when they could no longer distinguish 
•bjects, retiring to their own camp." 
( The Interval between the two Battles. — This time, 
|rom Sept. 19th till Oct. 7th, was devoted to strength- 
iming their fortifications, and by Gen. Gates to cojlect- 
'og also large reiniorcements of mili'ia. Gen. Bur- 
l;oy*'.e is said to have planned an attack on the 20th 
lind 21st of September, but tbrlunately delaj'^ed until 
jhe Americans were in the best situation to oppose him. 
IVttacks on the British pic quels took place almost every 
light, and they were continually harassed. 

Battle of October 8. — Gen. Wilkinson gives the fol- 
lowing description of this battle. 
i " The enemy were formed across a newly cultivated 
ield, their grenadiers with several field pieces on the 
eft, bordering on a wood and a small ravine formed by 
he rivulet before alluded to ; their light infantry on 
jhe right, covered by a worm fence at the foot ol the 
iiill before mentioned, thickly covered with wood ; 
) heir centre composed of British and German batta- 
j jons. C(ji. Morgan, with his usual sagacity, proposed 
D make a circuit with his corps on our left, and under 
iover of the wood to gain the height on the right of the 
inemy, and from thence commence liis attack, so soon 
ns our fire should be opened against their left; the 
' 5lan was the best which could be devised, and no doubt 



140 liOU'i'E lO THE SPKlMGb. 

contributed e ssentialh to the prompt and decisive vie 
tory we gained. 

" This proposition was approved by the General, and 
it was concerted that time should be allowed the Colo- 
nel to make the proposed circuit, and gain his station 
on the enemy's right before the attack should be made 
on their left : Poor's brigade was ordered for this ser- 
vice, and the attack was commenced in due season on 
the flank and front of the British grenadiers, by the 
New-Hampshire and New-^ ork troops. True U) his 

f>urpose, Morgan, at this critical moment, poured down 
ike a tonent from the hill, and attacked the right of 
the enemy in front and flank. Dearborn, at the mo- 
ment when the enemy's light infantry were attempt- 
ing to change front, pressed forward with ar<!our and 
delivered a close fire ; then leaped the fence, shouted, 
charged, and gallantly forced them to retire in dis- 
order ; yet, headed by that intrepid soldier, the Earl 
of Balcarras, they were immediately ral ied and re- 
formed behind a fence in rear of their first position; 
but being now attacked with great audacity in front 
and flanks by superior numbers, resistance became 
vain, and the whole line, commanded by Burgoyne 
in person, gave way and made a precipitate and dis- 
orderly retreat to his camp, leaving two 12, and six 
6 pounders on the field, with the loss of more than 400 
officers and men killed, woun ed, and captured, and, 
among them, the flower of his officers, viz : — Brigadier 
General Frazer,* Major Ackland, comnianding the 
grenadiers. Sir Francis Clark, his first aid-de-camp, 
Major Williams, commanding officer of the artillery, 
Captain Money, deputy quarter-master-general, and 
many others. The ground which had been occupied 
by the British grenadiers presented a scene of com- 
plicated horror and exultation. In the square space 



* General Frazer was shot in tlie meadow, near the fence by the road i 
side, just south of the blacksmith's shop, The ?pot is marke'l by t.lHj 
third tree in a row of poplar-r. 



JiATTLi: Ol !?AlJATo(:.A. i4'i 

; ol iweive or fifteen yards lay eighteen grenadiers in 
the agonies of death, and three officers propped up 
, against stumps oi' trees, two of them mortally wounded, 
. bleeding, and almost speechless. 
1 " I found the courageous Colonel C'lUey a-slraddle 
j on a brass twelve-pounder, and exulting in' the cap- 
ture. I pursued the hard-pressed flying enemy, pass- 
; ing over killed and wounded, unti! I heard one ex- 
i claim, ' Protect me. Sir, against this boy.' Turning" 
, my eyes, it was my fortune to arrest the purpose of a 
; lad thirteen or fourteen years old, in the act of taking 
aim at a wounded officer who lay in the angle of a 
i worm fence. Inquiring his rank, he answered, * I had 
the honour to command the grenadiers ;' of course, I 
! knew him to be Major Ackland, who had been brought 
, from the field to this place, on the back of a Captain 
i Shrimpton of his own corps, under a heavy fire, and 
I was here deposited, to save the lives of both. I dis- 
I mounted, took him by the hand, and expressed hopes 
ithat he was not badly wounded : ' not badly,' replied 
;! this gallant officer and accomplished gentleman, * but 
jvery inconveniently ; I am shot through both legs : will 
you, Sir, have the goodness to have me conveyed to 
your camp V I directed my servant to alight, and we 
lifted Ackland into his seat, and ordered him to be 
i conducted to head-quarters. 1 then proceeded to the 
; scene of renewed action, which embraced Burgoyne's 
i right flank defence, and extending to his left, crossed 
I a hollow covered with wood, about 40 rods, to the in- 
i trenchmt^nt of the light infantry. The roar of cannon 
^and small arms at this juncture was sublime, between 
^ the enemy behind their works, and our troops entirely 
(exposed, or partially sheltered by trees, stumps, or 
jtiollows, at various distances, not exceeding 120 yards-. 
I This right flank defence of the enemy, occupied by 
I the German corps of Breyman, consisted of a breast- 
'work of rails, piled horizontally between perpendicu- 
1 lar pickets, driven into the earth, en potence to the rest 
\-r( his litre, and extended to about 2r50 yards across an 
5f 



14^2 iiU'iJTE TO Tiii: SPiUAGs.. 

open field, and v.'as covered on the rig'ht by a battery, 
of two ^uns. The interval from the left to the British 
light infantry was committed to the defence of the 
provincialists, who occupied d. couple of log cabins. 
The Germans were encamped immediately behind 
the rail breastwork, and the ground in front of it de- 
clined in a very gentle slope for about 120 yards, when 
it sunk abruptly ; our troops had formed a line under 
this- declivity, and, coviered breast high, were warmly 
engaged with the Gern)ans. From this position, about 
sunset, I perceived Brigadier-General Learned ad- 
vancing towards the enemy with his brigade, in open 
column, I think with Colonel M. Jackson's regiment 
in front, as I saw Lieutenant-Colonel Brooks, who 
commanded it, near the General, when I rode up to. 
him. On saluting this brave old soldier, he inquired,; 
' Where can I }mt in with most advantage ?' 1 had 
particularly examined the ground between the left ot 
the Germans and the light infantry, occupied by the 
provincialists, from whence I had observed a slack, 
lire : I thereiore recommended to General Learned to, 
incline to his right, and attack at that point ; he did- 
so with great gallantry ; the provincialists abandoned 
their position and fled ; the German flank was by this 
means uncovered ; they were assaulted vigorously, 
overturned in live minutes, and retreated in disorder, 
leaving their gallant commander, Lieutenant-Colonel 
Breyman, dead on the lield. By dislodging this corps, 
the whole British encampment was laid open to us ; 
but the extreme darkness of the night, the fatigue of 
the men, and the disorder incident to undisciplined 
troops after so desultory an action, put it out of our 
power to improve the advantage ; and in the course 
of the night, General Burgoyne broke up his camp, and 
retired to his original position, which he had fortilied, 
behind the great ravine." 

The British lost, in killed, wounded, and prisoners, 
about 600 ; the Americans 319. The German officers 
said thev had never before met so visrorou? and terri- 



EATTLE OF SARATOGA. Mo 

ble a fire. Several American officers who walked 
over the field after midnight, found no enemy to in- 
terrupt them. 

General Frazer's Grave is on the hill a little west 
of Smith's. At his own request, he was buried in the 
great redoubt, the remains of which are plainly visible. 

Oct. 8th, ifrequent attacks were made on Gen. 
Balcarras' corps, and the British expected a general 
action. 

General Burs:oyne''s Retreat commenced that night 
tov/ards Lake George ; but he was pursued and in- 
tercepted so promptly, that he was obliged to stop 
and take a position at Schuylersville, near which he 
surrendered ten days after the battle. The place will 
be particularly noticed beyond. 

After perusing the foregoing descriptions of those two 
most importantbattles, the traveller will be greatly in- 
terested in learning that Smith's inn, to which he has 
before been directed, was at that period the 

Quarters of General Burgoyne. — The house now 
stands by the road side, but the place where it then 
was is a spot at the foot of the hill, and about 200 
j-ards from the river. The cellar is still to be seen, 
in a field near an apple tree, a little north of the road 
that crosses the canal. Willard's mountain is an emi- 
nence, a few miles off, on the opposite side of the river. 
During the last battle, the Americans had a few can- 
non on the rising ground above the eastern shore, a 
quarter of a mile above Smith's, and thence proceeded 
the shot of vvhich the Baroness Reidesel speaks in the 
j succeeding note. Several ladies of distinction were 
j its inmates at the time when the British troops were 
here, being the wives of some of its principal officers. 
Among these were the Baroness Reidesel,* with her 

I '* Extract of a letter from the Baroness, afterward published in Ger- 
many, and lately in this country. 

But severe trials awaited us, and on the 7th of October, our mis- 
j rortunes began. I was at breakfast with my husband, and heard that 
1 ftomethinff was intended. On the «ame dav I expected Generals Bur- 



144 EOUTE TO THE SPRINGS 

children, wife of General Reidesel, and Lady HariTct 
Ackland, wife of Major Ackland, commander of the 



^oyne, Phillips, and Frazer to dine with us. I saw a great movenaeijt 
among the troops ; my husband told me, it was merely a reconnoissancB, 
which gave ine no concern, as it often happened. I walked out of the- 
house and met several Indians in their war dresses, with guns in their 
hands. When I asked them where they were going, they cried out, 
War ! War ! (meaning they were going to battle.) This filled me with 
apprehension, and I scarcely got home before I lieard reports of cannon 
and musketry, which grew louder by degrees, till at last the noise be- 
came e.xcessive. About 4 o'clock in the afternoon, in.stead of the guests 
whom I expected, General Frazer was brought on a litter mortally 
wounded. The table, which was already set, was instantly removed,' 
and a bed placed in its stead for the wounded General. I sat trembling 
in acorner; the noise grew louder, and the alarm increased ; the thought 
that my husband might perhaps be brou;;ht in, wounded in the same 
way, was terrible to me, and distressed me exceedingly. Gen. Frazer ' 
paid to the surgeon, " tell me if my wound is mortal ; do not flatter me." 
The ball had passed through iiis body, and, unhappily for the General, 
lie had eaten a very hearty breakfast, by which the stomach was dis- 
Jended, and the ball, as the surgeon said, had passed through it. I 
licard him often exclaim with a sigh, " Oh, fatal ambition I Poor General 
Burgoyne: Oh, my poor wife !" He was asked if he had any request 
To make, to which he replied, that " If General Burgoyne would permit 
it, he should like to be buried at six o'clock in the evening on the top of 
a mountain, in a redoubt wJiich had been built there." I did not know 
Avhich way to turn, all the other rooms were full of sick. Towards 
evening I saw my husband coining ; then I forgot all my sorrows and 
thanked God that he was sjiured to me. lie ate in great haste with me 
and his aid-de-cam[i behnid the house. We had been told that we had 
Jlie advantage of the enemy, but the sorrowful faces I beheld told a dif- 
ferent tale, and before my iiusband went away, he took me one side, 
and said every thing was going very bad, that I nmst keep myself in 
readiness to leave the place, but not to mention it to any one. I made 
the pretence that I would move the next morning into my new house, 
and had every thing packed up ready. 

" Lady II. Ackland had a tent not far from our house ; in this she 
slept, and the rest of the day she was in the camp. All of a sudden, a 
man came to tell her that her husband was mortally wounded and taken 
jirisoner; on hearing this she became very miserable; we comliirted 
her by telling her that the wound was only slight, and at the same time 
advised Jjer to go over to her husband, to do which she would certainly 
obtain perhiission, and then she could attend him herself: she was a 
charming woman and verv fond of him. I spent much of the night in 
comforting her, and then went again to iny children whom I had put to 
bed. I could not go to sleep, as I had General Frazer and all the other 
Avounded gentlemen in my room, and I was sadly afraid my children 
would awake, and by their crying disturb the dying man in his last mo- 
ments, who often addressed me, and apologized '-for the trouble he 
ffave /ne." About 3 o'clock in the morning I was told he could not hold 
f fut nmch longer ; I had desired to be infi)rmed of the near approach of 
i.'ifs smi crisis, and T th^n wrapped no mv children in llifir flnthe*;. and 



BALLSTON SPRINGS. J 4c» 

British Grenadiers. The former published an account 
ot" what she saw during this trying and dangerous con- 
test, after her return to Europe. The house was con- 
verted into an hospital during the second battle, and 
Gen. Frazer died on the 8th of October in what is 
now the bar-room. His grave is on the hill. 

BALLSTON SPRINGS. 

This village is situated in a little valley surrounded 
by hills, which have the aspect of having once been 
the bed of a small lake. The high ground enclosing 
it, gives an air of seclusion to the place, at the same 
time that it furnishes a variety of pleasant scenery. 
The Kayderosseros brook flows through the valley, in 
I some places overhung by the groves of forest trees 
Itliat cover the hills. 

The Sans Souci Hotel is the principal house in the 
I place, and is at least equal in plan and in arrangement 
jto any similar establishment in the country. Aldridge's 
is a respectable house, in a pleasant situation. Mrs. 

went with them into the room below. About 8 o'clock in the morning 
he died. Afier he was laid out and his corpse wrapped up in a sheet, 
we came again into the room, and had this sorrowful bight before us the 

' wliole day ; and to add to this melancholy scene, ahnost every moment 
some otlicer of my acquaintance was brought in wounded. The can- 
nonade commenced again; a retreat was spoken of, hut not the smallest 
motion was made towards it. About 4 o'clock in tl;e afternoon I saw 

I the house which had just been built for me in flames, and the enemy was 

I now not far off. We knew that General Burgoyne would not refuse 
the last request of General Frazer, though, by his acceding to it, an un- 
necessary delay was occasioned, by which the inconvenience of the 
army was nmch increased. At 6 o'clock the corpse was brought out, 
and we saw all the Generals attend it to the mountain ; the chaplain, 
Mr. Brundell, performed the funeral service, rendered uimsually solemn 
and awful, from its being accompanied by constant peals from the ene- 
my's artillery. Many cannon balls flew close by me ; but I had my eyes 
directed towards the mountain, where my husband was standing, amid 
the fire of tlie enemy, and, of course, I could not ihink of my own dan- 
ger. General Gates afterward said, that if he had known it had been 
a funeral, he would not have permitted it to be fired on." Lady Harriet 
Ackland went to the American camp after tlie action, to take care of her 
husband, before the surrender, and the Baroness Reidesel afterward. 

I Thev were both received with the gj-eatcst kindness and delicacy. 
N 2 



^rt-e' THE SPEINftS. 

M'Masters', the Village Hotel, &c. are in tl>e neiglu- 
?30urhood. 

Sans Souci 

is a building- of great size, occupying the corner where 
the village street meets the road to Saratoga. It has 
a fine piazza opening upon the former, and presents a 
front of 156 feet long, with a wing extending back from 
each end 150 feet, ail of them three stories high, and 
containing in ail lodging for nearly 150 persons. The 
dining room can easily accommodate that number, and 
the public parlour is large, airy, and pleasant, extend- 
ing to the ladies' private parlour. 

Scarcely any thing in this country can exceed the 
scene of gayety which this house presents in the visit- 
ing season. VVhen crowded with people. Sans Souci 
is usually the scene of several balls in the week, to 
say nothing of the fishing parties, riding parties, &c. 
&c. which fill up the day. The variety of scenery 
in the neighbourhood is sufficient to attract many of 
those who resort to this place of health and pleasure ; 
and walking and riding will be found much more 
agreeable here than at Saratoga. Some of the parti- 
cular routes and objects will be designated hereafter. 



The Washington Spring. 

A new and remarkable chalj^beate Spring was ob- 
tained, in 1827, by boring 237 feet deep, through blue 
slate rock, near the Old Spring. It has a tube sunk 
the whole distance, made partly of iron and partly of 
tin, and affords a most delightful sparkling water, 
which boiis over the top. In August of that year, se- 
veral months after it was opened, the water was forced 
into the air to the height of 12 or 14 feet, without any 
perceptible cause, in a constant jet, for about half an 
hour. The water then disappeared, arrd was fifter: 



I ■P,ALLSTO^^ 147 

I'.vard discovered slowly rising, till itagaiii overflowed, 
-t was for a time flat and turbid ; but soon recovered 
ill its clearness, gaseous pungency, and sparkling. 
This spring affords some of the tinest chalybeate water 
n the United States. 

I The Lafayette Spring, which yields a fine and 
sparkling chalybeate water, was discovered early in 
he summer of 1825. It is supposed by many to be 
,n fact identical with the " Old Spring," which is soon 
be spoken of, being distant from it only about thirty 
eet. it is very cold and highly charged wiUi oxyde 
i3f iron and carbonic acid gas, which have given it a 
iaigh reputation. 

The Old Spri}ig, which is in the middle of tiie 
street opposite Aldridge's, was the tirst discovered jn 
dl this part of the country. It is said that the inhabit- 
ints were induced to trust to its peculiar virtues by 
ihe example of the deer of the forest, which had re- 
ported to it in such numbers as to form beaten paths 
from every direction to the spot. In 1792 there was 
not a house within two or three miles of this spot. 

The Old Spring has lost much of its original excel- 
lence, which appears to be in a good degree transferred 
to the new ones. 

T/ie Saline, or United States Spring, is a fine and 
most valuable one ; it is near the bathing house con- 
nected with the Sans Souci. It was discovered a few 
years since, and contains a large quantity of oxyde of 
iron, together with glauber and other salts, so that it is 
at once a strong saline, and chalybeate water. The 
iron is in such quantities as to be perceptible to the 
taste. Its effect IS tonic, and it favourably counteracts 
the debilitating effect of the salts. 

The New Spring is near the Sans Souci hotel. It 
Avas obtained in 1827 by boring to a depth of about 
300 feet, and is full of gas, very sparkling and con- 
sidered both saline and chalybeate. 

The neighbouring countiy was almost a perfect wil- 
denwss at the clocjtB of the Hevoltitionarv wai^* for th^ 



:4{'. THE .-rEi>;Gs. 

natural military route between Canada and the United 
States lay through it, and the Five Nations of Indianl 
Avere so near on the western side, and were so fre* 
quently pas'^ing over it on their war parties, that fevui 
white men were wii'-ng- to encounter the dangers and 
risks to which such a residence must necessarily be 
exposed. ^ 

For some years, the only place where visiters could 
find shelter here, was in a log house, near the Old 
Spring, whi( h was for some time the only object of 
notice. The springs near t'.e Sans Souci were subse- 
quently discovered, and have enjoyed their portion of 
celebrity. In 1817 four springs of different qualities 
were found near the great manufactory built by Mr^ 
Low. Their history is worthy of attention, as it 
shows the singular ch-nges which sometimes take 
place in this my.sterious soil, where springs occasion- 
ally appear, change places, and disappear, without any 
apparent cau:-e. Some surprising power is constantly 
at work somewhere beneath the surface, which tlie 
wisest students of nature are unable to explain or to 
comprehend. The branch of the Kayderosseros 
brook which flows through the Spa Village, was raised 
to an unusual height by a flood in the summer of 1817, 
and threw its current into a new channel, further to- 
wards the east than its former one. The oM bed was 
thus left dry ; and four springs were found rising side 
by side, all of diem within a space of about twenty 
feet square, and all of qualities entirely different. 
One resembled in some degree the Old Spring, but 
contained a surplus of carbonic acid gas and sparkled 
like champaign ; the next contained much glauber 
salts, and was somewhat like the Congress Spring ai 
Saratoga ; the third was brine, like sea water ; and 
the fourth perfectly fresh. A platform was raised 
that covered them all, and wooden tubes were sunk 
into the two first, which were only two or three feci 
apart ; and for three or four seasons they attracted all 
visiters, so much so that the Old Spring was deserted^. 



iiALLSTOA. 14Jf 

iThe liist spring was peculiarly fine, and the favourite 
)f all ; but it at length began to lose its flavour, gas, 
md virtue ; and the tour springs now flow off together 
^n a stream of almost pure water. The Old Spring* 
i.vas visited by Sir William Johnson before the Revo- 
:|utionary war, for his health. It was before known by 
•eports of the Indians. 

^QUALITIES OF THE BALLSTON WATERS. 

Mew-Haven, April 27, 1824. 
Dear Sir, 
j You request my opinion of the mineral waters at 
i3allston Spa. They are in my view very valuable, 
■ nd I can discern no serious reason why public opinion 
hould be less favourable to them now than formerly, 
became acquainted with the Old Spring, near Mr, 
jUdridge's, in consequence of using its waters unin- 
erruptedly at the fountain head, for a month, in the 
, Autumn of 1797 ; and a residence of the same length 
!)f time, at Ballston Spa, during the last summer, gave 
ine an opportunity of renewing my acquaintance with 
he Old Spring, and of becoming familiar also with 
hose more recently discovered fountains, which have 
)een opened and brought into use. The Old Spring 
1 ppears, substantially, as it did in 1797, and is, I sup- 
I lose, surpassed by no mineral fountain in the world as 
. brisk, copious, slightly saline, and strong chalybeate. 
Che principal spring* under the bath house, while it 
« also a brisk chalybeate, is besides in a high degree 
aline, and is probably unrivalled as a natural combi- 
■ation of this class. Its cathartic properties are strong, 
nd its tonic powers equally so. There is no spring, 
ither at Ballston Spa or Saratoga Springs, which 1 
bould prefer to this. 1 speak of my own expe- 

*Mr. Silljman has analyzed tlie water of tliis spiiii!?, wliich is now 
ailed the United States, and found lialf a sialloii of it to contain 270 
;rains of salt; iron, lime, and mau'nosia, 100. It i^ al once hi<.'hlv saline 
!»(] rhnlylienro. whirji j^: verv reniarkrib!-'. 



loO THE 51'IUAG:;. 

rience — lov some persons, a bri-k cathartic' \vater. 
scarcely chalybeate at all, like the Congress Spring, 
may be preferable. The Congress Spring is also, st 
fir as I am informed, without a rival, in its class — but 
it is scarcely proper to call it a chnlybeate, as it is si 
only in a slight degree. There is no reason why th( 
establishments at Saratoga Spring* and at Dallston Spci 
should regard each ».ther with an unfriendly feeling. 
The accommodations of bo h are too good to need 
praise from me, and the bounty of the Creator ha: 
poured forth these fountains ot health, in the urea 
valley (for I regard the springs of Ballston Spa and 
Saratoga as parts of one great system) with a profust 
benevolence, unknown in any other country. Nothing 
can exceed the variety, copiousness, and excellence oi 
the sprin^rs at S;)ratoga — but those of Ba Islon Spi 
are in no respect, except that of number and variety 
inferior to them, and I trust the d.^y is not distant 
when a truly liberal feeling will, in both villages, leat; 
to mutual commendation, an^' an amicable rivalry, ii. 
efforts to please and to accommodate their guests 
and tht' salutary elTect will then, I am persuaded, sooi; 
be visible, in the increased number of visiters, froni 
every part of this great continent ; a number more 
than sufficient to till both villages, and fully to reward 
tlie spirited and liberal proprietors of their respective 
public establishments. 

With the best wishes for the prosperity of both 
places, I remain 

"Vour Obt. Servant, 

B. SILLIMAN. 

Looo's Manufactory is four stories high, about 170 
feet long, and tbrty feet widf, with a large room ii 
each of the three upper stories about 115 leet long', 
It is not used. 

There is a Reading Room and Circulathig Library 
kept at the store of Mr. Comstock ; and a book is alsc 
to be seen, in which the names of visiters arriving 



GALWAl. Ibi 

.'he principal houses are daily enlcred, lor tiie inrorm" 
. tionof others. 

' The Lovers Leap is a precipice of 60 or 70 {^ei, 
li'hich overhanijs ibe Kayderosseros, and overlooks a 
lom.iniic and secluded 11; lie valley, at tiie distance of 
^'bout halt' a mile tVom (he springs. The road leads 
pthe hill beyond AlQ!id2:e's, and through a daik pine 
rove. A half-trodden path turns off at the right, and 
ijonducts to the piecipice, which is a pleasant letreat 
^'n the heat o' the day, affording a fine shade and fre- 
j.;uently a pleasant breeze, as well as the view of a 
ijjv'ild scene below, to which a steep descent conducts 
jl n the left hand. 

J, Ballston Lake is a pretty little sheet of water about 
jj3ur miles distant; but as Saratoga Lake is much 
,.arg:er, more accessible, and more beautiful, and is 
' uppiied with accommodations for fishin'< parties, it is 
j.iore worthy of attention; we refer the stranger to 
^He description of it on page 145. The distance is 
,j3ur and a half miles, and five and a half from Sara- 
oga Springs. It is only six miles from Ballston Spa 
3 the south end, where is the finest view of it, on the 
. vay to the battle ground. The road is rather stony 
nd rough, but perfectly safe, and has some pleasant 
pots, and several extensive views. The Green Moun- 
tains in Vermont piesent a very noble appearance ; and 
everal ridges of hills between, afterward succeeded 
)y the swelling and fertile shores of the. Hudson, form 
. various an' i delightful landscape. 

Mr. Simpso7ih Farm in Galway, is 11 miles west 
jrom Ballston Springs. 

I He- is an excellent fanner, and his house a very good 

; an. Take the road up the sand hill by Aldridge's, 

massing near the Lover's Leap, and following the 

ohnstown ro^d. His house is on a high ridge of land; 

he larm contains 800 acres, 360 of which are culti- 

'■ated, principally for grain and grass. He raises 40 

I )r 50 bushels of wheat to an acre b}^ late ploughing, 

Jibout three inches deep. He soaks his setjd wheat in 



brine, and rolls it in lime to preserve il Iroiii iiisecLv 
Otlier seeds he rolls in plaster. He has raised 70C^ 
bushels of^potatoes to an acre. His corn is planted 
two feet apart one way, and two and a half the other. 

His fences are of stone and wood — a low slone 
wall, with timber in it, to secure the parts above 
g'round. A fence of two rails is thus made above j 
the rails being of plank, about four inches wide. Of | 
this kind of fence, he has on his farm what would 
measure 15 miles. 

The place enjoys so fine and healthy a situation, and 
the inn is so well kept, being one of the best in this 
part of the country, that it is the resort of many vi- 
siters from different quarters, who frequently spend 
days or weeks there. The charges are more moderate 
than at the Springs. 

The view is commanding, and the air fine. From 
an eminence west of the house, no less than 13 coun- 
ties may be discovered. The church is half a mile 
distant, and the road from Ballston pretty good. 

REMARKS ON THE ROUTES. 

At the Springs many a traveller has to arrange his 
future journeys, either for business or pleasure ; and 
as Ballston and Saratoga are pre-eminently places of 
leisure, some general hints concerning the different 
routes will not be misplaced. 

North. The roads to Lake George, Lake Cham- 
plain, Montreal, &c., belonging more properly to Sara- 
toga, will be given under that head. 

East. The traveller is referred to the same place 
and Albany for the roads leading into New-England. 

South. Three or four steamboats leave Albany for 
New-York every day, and as many arrive from that 
city. Several also ply every week between New- 
York and other points. They touch at nuvnerous 
points on the river, so that passengers can land where 
thoy please. The newspapers ^vill furfij-sh all necec. 



SAKATOGA. 15'3 

' ^.aiy iiitoriiiation concernina^ their periods of departure 
and return ; and coaches from the Springs so regulate 
their time as to accommodate the traveller. 

I There are several roads to Albany: by Waterford, 

land Troy, or Gibbonsville, and by Schenectady. 
From Waterford you may take either side of the 

jfiver. On the west side are the Cohoes Falls, the 
remarkable "nine locks" on the Erie Canal, the junc- 
tion of the two canals, and route of the former quite to 
AHjany. On the east side the road passes over a 

j jridge to Lansingburgh, through Troy, and recrosses 

jiay a good and safe ferry. {See Index.) 

The second road, which goes through Schenectady, 

lis rather circuitous, but will give the stranger an op- 
portunity of travelling 27 miles on the Erie Canal, 
.ilong the course of the Mohawk. 
West^ The grand western route, through Utica, 

'ind leading to Niagara and Lske Erie, has been al- 

jready traced out. The nearest point on this route is 
Schenectady, whence the traveller may proceed up 
the Mohawk, either by the stage road, or in the canal 
boats. 

The direct road to Schenectady, however, is sandy, 
aod quite uninteresting. 

SARATOGA SPRINGS 

are 7 miles from Ballston Springs, and a coach gene- 
rally passes between these two places every 
Jay ; besides a number of other carriages on their way 
from Albany, &c. What is called the regular price 
for these 7 miles is 50 cents for a seat. The ohi road 
;s level and sandy, nnd if the weather be dry the tra- 
veller will probably be incommoded with dust, 
unless he rides in the morning or evening, when the 
'ground is moist with the dew. The new road passes 
I over higher ground, and is pleasanter and harder, al- 
i though somewhat longer. You may pass out by the 
j court-house, east, or turn to the risht iust below the 



154 THE SrKIlS'GS. 

Sans Souci. You enjoy some fine views oi the dis- 
tant hiils and mountains ; and the soil and crops are 
generally much better than on the old road. 

Saratoga is quite concealed until you are within a ; 
short distance, and then the clusters ot" frail board 
buildings which spring up among the stumps of trees 
lately felled in the skirts of the pine tbrest, show what 
an unnatural surplus of population the place contains 
durmg the visiting season, which is principally in July 
and August. It may not be unseasonable to mention 
here the princi{)al houses in the order in which they 
are supposed to stand on the list of gentility : the Con- 
gress Hall, $10 per week ; United States Hotel, do. ; 
the Pavilion, do. ; and Union Hall $8. 

On reaching the brow of a hill which descends into 
the village, the street lies in lull view, with all the 
principal houses. On the right is Congress Hall three 
stories high with a row of 17 columns, rising from the 
ground to the eaves ; opposite is Union Hail with a 
row of 10 similar columns ; over which are seen the 
brick walls of the United States Hotel ; and still be- 
yond, on the other side, the roof of the Pavilion. 
From this view the village is represented in the ac- 
companying print, which was taken on the spot. 

On reaching the foot of the hill, the Congress Spring, 
the great attraction of the place, is seen at a short dis- 
tance on the right, usually surrounded with a throng of 
people. 

Congress Hall 

has generally enjoyed the highest favour among the 
most fashionable visiters at Saratoga, on account of its 
fine and imposing appearance, its contiguity to the 
Spring, the number and size of its apartments, and 
the style in which it is furnished and kept. It is 196 
feet long on the street, with two wings of 60 feet run- 
ning back, and contains lodging for 150. The first 
floor in front is divided in the following manner : a 



b'ARATOGA. 155 

""dining room in the middle, capable of containing- 
tables for all the house can accommodate; next the 
dancing hall, about 80 feet long, and south the ladies* 

{private parlour. The price of board is $10 per week. 

The United States Hall 

is a fine building of brick, three stories high, with a 
colonade rising only to the second story. This house 
is excellently well kept, and is more substantially built 
j than any of the rest, which are of a light construction, 
I fit only for the mildest weather ; but it is deficient in 
public rooms, in which particular Congress Hall so 
much excels. It is also raised so high from the street 
as not to be convenient of access, although some pre- 
fer it on that very account. 

The Pavilion. 

This is a veiy good house for one of its size, and 
will be found free from much of the bustle of the larger 
ones, while it is often the resort of much company 
in the visiting season. Those who wish to drink 
often of the Flat Rock water will prefer it, as that 
Spring is only a few steps from it in the rear There 
is a fine bathing house connected with it, »nd a shady 
little wood not far beyond by the road side, on the 
way to the Round Rock Spring. 

Union Hall 

is the resort of those who wish to have the most con- 
venient access to the waters of the Congress Spring, 
or to participate more moderately in the amusements 
of the place, and to avoid the inconveniences of gayety 
and mirth, produced by the continued round oT balls 
and dances in the other principal houses. 



50 THE SPEIKGS. 

The Congress Spring; 

which, as was belore remarked, is the great source 
from which this place derives its celebrity and its 
show of wealth and importance, was discovered by 
Mr. Putnam. He built the first house near it for the 
accommodation of invalids, Avhich was subsequently 
enlarged to the present Union Hall, now kept by his 
son. The Congress Spring was long concealed by the, 
neighbouring brook which formerly passed over it ; 
but its valuable qualities being discovered, it has at- 
tracted universal attention, and the benefits of its wa-. 
ters are .innually dispensed to thousands. 

Mr. Silliman gives the following analysis : half a 
gallon contains 320 grains of salt, 26 lime and mag- 
nesia, with a slight trace of iron. 

The Flat Rock Spring 

is near the upper end of the street, and in the rear of 
the Pavilion. In composition and qualities it bears a 
resemblance to the Washington Spring at Ballston, hut 
is far inferior. It is a chalybeate water, and the best 
of the kind in the place. It is situated on the margin 
of the little valley in which all the springs are found, 
and the Pavilion will prove a pleasant house to inva- 
lids and others who wish to drink of it frequentl}'. 

The Round Rock Spring. 

This Spring is worthy of a visit merely as a natural 
curiosit}- : the water, although for a time much cele- 
brated, and indeed the only attraction of which Sara- 
toga could boast, having gone into disrepute, since the 
discovery oi" the souices already mentioned. It is a 
feeble chalybeate with little taste and little effect. 
The water rises in a small rock of calcareous tufa, of 
a conical form, with a circular hole in the middle, 
about five inches in diameter. The rock is a}}oiit five 



saratihtA. 157 

feet throug^h al the base, and has evidently been pro- 
duced by the layers of lime deposited by the water. 
Many of the rocks in the neighbourhood contain a 
large quantity of lime, where the carbonic acid of the 
water probably obtains the supply which it afterward 
'deposites here. The gradual accretion which is thus 
constantly going on is very apparent even to a hast)'' 
lobserver. That part of the rock which is most ex- 
iposed to the dripping of water taken out in cups 
through the hole in the top, is always smooth and even, 
ivhiie other parts are rough and broken. Fractures 
liBade by visiters are sometimes found half obliterated 
jjy a recent coat of calcareous matter formed in this 
nnanner. A horizontal rock, apparently of similar 
"ormation, extends for a considerable distance under 
;he surface of the ground; and indeed it might be 
supposed to reach to some of the springs which rise 
!'n different places along the valley above. 
I The water, according to common report, formerly 
! lowed over the top, but has for many years found its 
tyay below, through a crevice produced by a large 
'brest tree which fell and cracked the rock. 

Saratoga Lake. 

An excursion to this beautitul piece of water, is one 
iif the most agreeable that can be made in any di- 
rection. It is bh miles distant, in a south-easterly di- 
I'ection, and is frequently visited by parties from Balls- 
l.on, as well as Saratoga Springs, as a good house has 
I )een lately erected on the shore, and furnished with 
livery accommodation, by Mr. Riley. Sailing and 
j]shingon the lake form the amusements of the ex- 
cursion. 

The first part of the way is by the eastern road to 

jSallston Spa ; and after turning to the left and riding 

;o within half a mile of the lake, a fine view opens 

j rom the top of a hill. The eye embraces a part of 

hi= fine sheet of water, with its sloping and verdant 

n « 



I5g THI5 SPRINGS. 

shores, ^cenerally divided by square fields; with a 
distant view of the Green Mountains. 

At a considerable distance from the shore, is erected 
a stage, 16 by 14 feet, a little raised above the water, 
and capable of containing- thirty people. The lake 
is there about seven feet deep, and the spot is excel- 
lent for fishiniT- Parties of ladies and gentlemen are 
taken off in boat'^, and in hot weather an awning is 
spread to shade them from the sun. 

On the opposite side of the lake is a remarkable 
rocky and woody hill, of a rounded form, which is 
connected with the shore only by a narrow neck. 
T'he deepest water is two miles below, at Drowned 
Meadow Cove, where it is 150 or 170 feet to the bot- 
tom. The road running north from Riley's is plea- 
sant, but reaches only half a mile. 

The lake extends seven miles in length, and is two 
in breadth. The shores are bold and varied, gently 
descending Avith a smooth slope to the margin, or 
rising in rugged crags from the water's edge ; some- 
times softened and beautified by the hand of cultiva- 
tion, and sometimes abandoned to all their native 
wildness. 

If the wind and weather are favourable, the visiter 
may expect good sport in fishing ; and if not, he may 
ca'culate on a dinner table well supplied by other and 
more fortunate adventurers. There are also many 
kinds of wild fowl, birds, &,c. in the neighbourhood, 
so that a sportsman may find great amusement here. 

There is a house at the north end of the lake, 4 
miles from Saratoga Springs, kept by Mr. Green, near 
the ferry, v here also visiters are accommodated. 

Trout Fishing. Two rtiles eastward from the 
Sfjririgs, is a Trout Pond, to which sportsmen fre- 
quently !esort. 

The Reading Room. Strangers will find newspa- 
pers from different parts of the countr}^, and will be 
able to supply themselves with books of different de- 
scriptions, to beguile their leisure hours. The Read- 



*AEATOGA. 15r* 

ling- Room is at the Book Store of Mr. Davison, a little 
beyond the United States Hotel. 

A Record will also be found at the same place, into 
which the arrivals and departuies of visiters are copied, 
iDDce a day, from the books of the four principal 
lliouses. If any one expects to meet a friend here, 
iT wishes to learn whether he has already left Sara- 
jtoga, he has only to refer to this list and look for bis 
Iname. 

SCHUYLERSVILLE, 12 m. from Saratoga, 

I -even miles from the battle-ground. A stage coach 
leaves Saratoga Springs three mornings in the week, 
ivhich passes through this place. At this village is 
I. he place where Gen. Burgoyne was forced to stop on 
I lis retreat, on account of the flood in Fish Creek, the 
|)utlet of Saratoga Lake ; and at Fort Hardy, which 
I hen stood on its banks, he surrendered to Gen. Gates 
\m the 17th October. The traces of his camp are still 
very discernible, in embankments, ditches, &c. and 
I he house in which he had his head-quarters stood till 
vvithin a few years. 

The British Camp, 

|)nemile from the Fishkill, and opposite the Batenkiil 

lOreek. From the hill where the British encampment 

Ivvas formed, a fine and extensive view may be had, 

jjpon the route towards Bemis's Heights. General 

Burgoyne occupied the night of October 8th, and the 

^ bllowing day, in getting to this place, although it is 

but 7 miles, on account of the miserable state of the 

*oads. Here he was detained for several days by the 

jewelling of the waters of the creek; and when he 

I [grossed the stream, he left his hospital with 300 sick 

nnd wounded, who were treated by Gen. Gates with 

1 every atlenlion. 

! Hevp the further retreat was cut off: for the Ameri ■ 



3tJ0 THE SPItlKGS. 

cans were found in possession of the fords of the Hud- 
son. Gen. Burgoyne therefore took his last position ; 
and Gen. Gates formed his camp behind, while Mor- 
gan took post on the west and north of the British, 
and Gen. Fellows, with 3000 men, was stationed on 
the opposite side of the river. American troops were 
also in Fort Edward, and on the high ground towards 
Lake George. 

While remaining in this situation, the British were 
continually exposed to the fire of their enemies, as well 
as reduced by want of provision. Six days passed 
thus; when on the 17th of Octolier, 1777, a conven- 
tion was signed, and the army, being marched to the 
meadow near Old Fort Hardy, piled their arms and 
surrendered prisoners of war, to the number of 5752 
effective, with 528 sick and wounded. This meadow 
is in sight from the inn. 

The House of Gen. Schuyler stood on the spot now 
occupied by that of his grandson. It was burnt by 
Burgoyne on his retreat, together with his mills ; not- 
withstanding which, the British officers were after- 
ward received at his house in Albany, and treated with 
great kindness. 

Remarks on the Routes. 

AoW/i. — Three great routes from the Springs to- 
wards the north may be particularized, although they 
run almost side by side, and all unite on arriving at 
Lake Champlain. 1st, The fashionable route, to 
Caldwell, on Lake George. 2d, The Northern, or 
Champlain Canal. 3d, The road to Whitehall, the 
direct route on the way to Montreal.* 

The j^rs^ of these is usually travelled by strangers 
of taste and leisure, as it conducts directly to the fine 
scenery of Lake George, and the battle-grounds in its 



*Thore also are two stajre routes to Montreal, one on each side of 
J-akp Chnnnilain. Thf mail now cop? to ATontrf?.)1 daih'. 



SAllATOCA. Ibl 

jvicinity; and passes near several other spots of high 
.'interest for their historical associations. It is with a 
particular view to this route, that the places soon to 
be mentioned will be arrano^ed and described. Even 
lif a journey to Montreal is intended, it can hardly be 
|too urgently pressed upon the stranger to devote a 
leisure day or two to Lake George on his way, as he 
will jfind himself most amply rewarded, and can join 
the great route with facility at Ticonderoga. 

The second route, by the Northern Canal, may be 
met near the battle-ground at Bemis's Heights ; but 
it has hitherto offered in this part no boat expressly for 
passengers. In fine weather, however, gentlemen 
may travel very pleasantly for a few miles in the 
common freight boats. 

The third route is the road to Whitehall, which is 
1 furnished with public carriages from the Springs 
I during the warm season, and, like the canal, passes 
1 near some of the interesting places to be mentioned 
j hereafter. From Whitehall the traveller may proceed 
down Lake Champlain in the daily steamboats, or by 
land in the mail coach. 

East. — Travellers wishing to go to any part of the 
country in this direction, may take their choice of 
several routes. Lines of stage coaches run to Con- 
necticut river from Burlington, Middlebury, Castleton, 
and Granville, as well as from Troy and Albany, in 
various directions — to Hanover, Brattleborough, Green- 
field, Northampton, Springfield, Hartford ; and there 
subdividing into numerous ramifications, offer the 
means of conveyance to every part of New-England. 
To meet most of these routes, it will be necessary 
to proceed to some point north or south of the Springs, 
for which public carriages are established in several 
directions from Saratoga and Ballston, concerning 
which, arrangements may be made at the bar of the 
) house where the stranger is lodged. 
I It is also important to mention, that two lines of 
cnache? run alons: the ronr=p'= of Hudson River and 



162 EXCUESION TO LA&E GBOEGE. 

Wood Creek, one on each side ; and that the eastern 
one carries the mail through Castleton, Middlebury, 
Burlington, &c. along the course of Lake Champlain, 
though generally at too great a distance to command 
a view of it. The country there is very fine, the vil- 
lages beautiful, and the surface frequently mountainous. 

This road meets several of the eastern roads ; but 
the traveller will probably prefer to take one of the 
four steamboats, as he can land at the most important 
points. 

The most interesting route that can be chosen by a 
man of taste, from the Springs to Boston, is through 
Vermont to the White Mountains, and Winnipiseogee 
Lake in New-Hampshire. He may take what road 
he pleases to Connecticut River. 

For the roads leading sowi/i and west from the Springs 
he is referred directly to Ballston, where those routes 
are particularly mentioned and described. 

If he has never visited the Battle Ground at Demises 
Heights, or, as it is usually called, o( Saratoga, it may 
be recommended to him to take that interesting place 
in his way, and to refer to page 135 for the descrip- 
tion of if, 

EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE, 27 miles. 

This is by far the most delightful, as well as fashion- 
able excursion which can be made from the Springs 
in any direction, as it abounds with some of the finest 
scenery in the United States, and in numerous sites 
and objects intimately connected with the history of 
the country. 

A stage coach leaves Saratoga Springs every morn- 
ing for Caldwell, at the south end of the lake, passing 
through Glenn's Falls. 

From the time of the earliest wars between the 
British colonies and the French in Canada, to that of 
T755, the tract over which part of our route lies was 
tho hig;h road of war. It was traversed bv manv a 



GLENN'S FALLS. IGo 

lostile expedition, in which the splendour and power 

f European arms mingled with the fierce tactics of 

avage warriors : the ruins of fortresses are still to be 

raced in several places, and tradition points to many 

spot that has been sprinkled with blood. During 

he Revolution, also, some of the important events in 

ur history, took place in this neighbourhood. The 

i lattle of Saratoga, and the defeat of General Burgoyne 

I lave been already dwelt upon; but we shall have to 

I efer more than once to his expedition as we pass 

ther scenes with which the events of it are connected. 

1 The Journey to Montreal may be made by the way 

IfLake George; and this route the book will pursue, 

3 Montreal and Q,uebec, whither the reader, it is 

foped, will accompany it. 

IThe road from Saratoga to Glenn's Falls? 
i 18 miles. 

^ Wilton, 7 m. — Here take the left-hand road, where 
j small house stands at the angle. This will prove 
I he better route, and meets the other branch twice, at 
jour and six miles distance. Thirteen miles beyond, 
he road branches off eastward for Sandy Hill. 
, Half a mile before reaching the villaa:e, the road 
jmters a rich plain, probably once overflown by the 
fiver, vvhich is now discovered on the left, dividing it 
In its course, while the village appears in iront, with 
I. handsome church spire, and a number of neat white 
iiouses, all backed by the mountains, which here 
, tretch off towards the north. 

I French Mountain is the most prominent eminence, 
)f which more anon. A more distant range is like- 
i'ise seen further to the right. 

Glenn's Falls. — If the traveller is going on immedi- 
ately to the lake, he should stop a few moments on 
'he bridge, to see the falls in the Hudson, which are 
n full view below. The river here makes a sudden 
iescent of 37 feet, over a rock of dark blue limestone. 



lo4 EXCURSIOxV TO lAKE GEultGj;. 

ivhicli has been worn into so many forms as to break 
up the current in a very singular manner. The pro- 
jection of two Iar!?e masses of rock divides the water 
into three sheets (except when it is m^jch swollen by. 
jloods). Of these, the northern one is much the larg- 
est, and the other two unite and pass througii a deep 
channel, about 15 feet wide. A man jumped off the 
bridge here, twice, a few years ago, yet escaped 
Avithout serious injury. The most water passes through 
the other channel.* 

A d?.m is thrown across just above the falls, which 
supplies a Cotton Manufactory of Stone with water, 
as well as several mills. On the north side of the 
river is a canal, which is intended for a feeder to the 
Champlain canal, and passes along the elevated bank. 
It now furnishes water for several mills, and an artificial 
cascade. 

The great flat rock which supports the bridge, pro- 
jects beyond it, and affords space for a small garden on 
its highest part, although the greater part of it is over- 
flown in high Hoods. Like the other rocky strata 
there, it has a gentle dip towards the south, and a per- 
pendicular fracture running nearly north and south. 

Caverns. — Passing through the garden, and turning 
to the left, the mouths of two caverns are found facing 
the north, in diilerent places among the rocks. They 
have been cut through by the rushing of water, in a 
direction across the liver's course, and corresponding 
with the natural fracture. The first is just large enough 
to permit the passa^-e of a man, and is cut with sur- 
prising regularity for a distance of about 25 feet. 
This place is made the scene of some of the most in- 

* Sandy Ifdl, 3 milc.i eastward. — This viilas^e is pk>as^:it!y situated 
at the next fall in tlie river below. The cascade is less rciiia- kable as 
an object of (Miriosiiy and interest, Imt it is still worthy of attention if 
the stranger have sufficient time at his disposal. lie wiil find a pleasjint 
road onward ; and if he should be o)i hi.s reinru from Lake George, and 
wishes to visit tliis part of the river, the Fiild of Sun-enderj or the Bat- 
tle Ground., before reaching Saratoija or Ballston, he will fird it con- 
venient to follow the course of the river. The village has a good inn 
. For 3 de?cripiion of the principal scenes of this route; see TikU-p- < 



fUENOH MOUlNTxVixV- 16. J 

i iresting chapters of Mr. Cooper's novel of The Last of 
.'le Mohicans. The cavern (perhaps altered since 
I 737) was the place where the wanderers secreted 
I lemselves, and were made captives. The cavern 
', inducts to one of the river's channels, where it opens 
Ln the side of a precipice, directly over the water. 
ii;j"'he banks of the river are perpendicular rocks as far 
i '3 can be seen ; and nearly opposite the caverns, 
i nder the north bank, is an abundant spring of fine, 
pure water, which pours from a hole in the rock, a 
ijiw feet from the surface of the river. 
ji About half-way between this place and Sandy Hill. 
f convoy of wagons was attacked in the French war, 
n their way to Lake George. 

Nearly north of Glenn's Falls, is Luzerne Mountain ; 
nd a little to the right of it, French Mountain. Be- 
tween them passes the road to Lake George. Towards 
'be west, j; range of high hills encloses the view, and 
!q the easu the Vermont Mountains make a fine ap- 
pearance. 

Ncnr the ioot o( French Mountain is a small tavern, 
n the east side of the road ; and near this place Gen. 
)ieskau's advanced guard struck the route from Glenn's 
'alls aiid Fort Edward to Fort William Henry. The 
'alky through which we pass is narrow for some dis- 
:iice beyond ; and after about half an hour's ride (for 
inere are no mile stones), a little circular pond is dis- 
l.overed on the east side, and close by the road. It is 
Generally almost concealed with water plants. 

This was near the place of action betv;een Colonel 
iVilliaras and General Dieskau. The latter had ex- 
ended his troops across the path, and advanced his 
vings some distance in front, the left wing occupying 
he rising ground on the west side of the road near 
his place. A small cleared spot may be noticed on 
he other side, a little beyond the pond (in 1825 a hut 
tood upon it), that is said to have been the principal 
cene of action ; and a singular rock near by is pointed 
>n% hv tradition as the mark of Col. Williams's grave. 
P 



IdfcJ EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE. 

This, however, is considered very doubtful ; by others, 
it is said that he ascended the rock to reconnoitre, 
and was shot from its summit. [Page 170.) 

The little pond above mentioned was the place 
where most of the dead were thrown, and it bears the 
name of Bloody Pond to this day. It is probably 
much smaller than formerly. In 1825 the skeleton of 
a man was dug; up from a depth of one and a half teet, 
near the pond, with a marble pipe, and some silver- 
eyed buttons bearing the royal stamp. This pond is 
nearly circular, and is covered, in its season, with 
the Pond Lily (Nymphea Alba), which expands its 
flowers on the surface of the water. 

About a quarter of a mile beyond this place, is a 
fine view of 

LAKE GEORGE. i 

Coming to the brow of a high hill, the prospect ' 
opens, and the lake appears, enclosed by mountains, 
many of which, at this distance, are of a deep blue. 
The side of French Mountain is near at hand on the 
east, covered with thick trees to the summit ; while 
the smoothness of the lake, the beauty of its nearest 
shore, with the neat white buildings of Caldwell, com- 
municate to the scene a degree of beauty and seclu- 
sion, which can hardly be found in any other spot. 
Directly at the south end of Lake George, are the 
remains of Forts George and William Henry, famous 
in the history of the French war ; and on the site of 
the former was General Johnson's camp, when he was 
attacked by Dieskau. The particulars of the action 
will be given hereafter. 

Caldwell. 

The village of Caldwell is the place at which the 
visiter will stop to take a view of this charming lake, 
3Dd from which be will make his excursions across it^ 



I LAKE GEOKGE. 167 

beautiful waters. The villag:e stands at the south end 
af the lake, and on its shore, commanding a fine view 
of the neighbouring sheet of water and the mountains 
|by which it is almost enclosed. The inn to which 
[strangers resort, occupies a spot peculiarly fitted to 
gratify the eye of taste, as it overlooks the lake for 
jseveral miles, and the view is not interrupted by any 
'neighbouring obstacle. A more delightful place can 
hardly be found in the United States, for the tempo- 
rary residence of one who takes delight in scenery of 
[this description, and loves to recur to deeds long past, 
'and to exploits great in themselves and important in 
their results even to the present day. 

Lake George is 34 miles long, and its greatest 
breadth 4. At the south end it is only about one mile 
broad. The greatest depth is sixty fathoms. The 
water is remarkable for its purity — a fish or a stone 
'may be seen at the depth of 20 or 30 feet. It is un- 
Idoubtedly supplied by springs from below, as the 
water is coldest near the bottom. It contains trout, 
bass, and perch. There are deer in the neighbouring 
forest. The outlet which leads to Lake Champlain 
contains three large falls and rapids. The lake never 
j rises more than two feet. 

I The three best points of view are at Fort George, 
la place north of Shelving Rock, 14 miles, and another 
I at Sabbath Day Poini, 21 miles from the head of the 
'lake. The last view is taken southward, the other 
i two northward. 

I This beautiful basin, with its pure crystal water, 

I is bounded by two ranges of mountains, which, in 

some places rising with a bold and hasty ascent from 

the water, and in others descending with a graceful 

sweep from a great height to a broad and level mar- 

j gin, furnish it with a charming variety of scenery, 

which every change of weather, as well as every 

. change of position, presents in new and countless 

beauties. The intermixture of cultivation with the 

wild scenes of nature is extremely asrreeable ; and 



168 EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE. 

the undulating: surface of the well-tilled farm is often 
contrasted with the deep shade of the native forest, 
and the naked, weather-beaten cliffs, where no vege- 
tation can dwell. 

The situation of the hotel is delightful, surpassing 
that of almost every other to be found in this part of 
the cou^t^}^ The traveller may hereafter take plea- 
sure in comparing the scene enjoyed from his window, 
with those he may witness from the walls of Quebec, 
Masonic Mall at Montreal, and Forsyth's at Niagara. 
The house is very large, having been increased within 
a year or two by the addition of a long wing, three 
stories high, so that it is now capable of furnishing 
lodgings for one hundred persons, and the apartments 
are so arranged, that half of them look out upon the 
lake. A green and handsome slope descends about 
200 yards to the very margin, where there is no 
obstruction but a few trees and scattering buildings. 
There is the wharf, at which the steamboat receives 
and lands her passengers, often adding much variety 
to tlwj place by an addition of company. The dis- 
charge of the signal gun makes fine echoes among the 
mountains in a clear niaht. 

The lake is here about three-quarters of a mile 
wide, and the range of mountains opposite, which are 
high and uninterrupted, are quite uncultivated, with 
the exception of a few farms near the shore ; the 
other parts being covered with trees almost to the 
water. 

On the right is seen the south end of the lake, which 
is formed of low land for some distance back, suc- 
ceeded by French Mountain in the rear. On a little 
point, half covered with trees, and rising only about 
25 feet above the water, is the site of Fort William 
Henry ; and about a mile towards the south-east from 
it, on a considerable elevation, are the ruins of Fort 
George. For the history of these once important little 
;ortre««:es. see paure 170. ^ 



LAKE oeOllGE. 169 



Excursions on the Lake, Fishing, &c. 

Boats are kept at the wharf to convey passengers 
4o any part of the neighbouriiis: shores and islands. 
[Fine perch, or black bass, {Perca Franklinia), are 
•caught in abundance almost every where ; and trout, 
at the mouth of a small stream near the south end. 
Fishing rods and tackle may be obtained at the hotel ; 
.and a variety of other fish are to be found. 
j Diamond Island is a few miles down the lake, and 
ns famous for abounding in crystals of quartz, which are 
'found in a loose rock by digging a little under the sur- 
^face. They are found, however, in equal numbers in 
j several of the other islands ; and it is, after all, the 
, easier way to purchase them, and not to permit the 
labour of searching for them to interfere with the plea- 
sure of the excursion, particularly as that labour is 
often ineffectual. A poor family lived on Diamond 
; Island, subsisting partly on a small spot of tilled land, 
and partly on the produce of the crystals sold to 
visiters. 

Tea Island, about 2 miles down the lake, is another 
favourite retreat. The little bay in which the boats 
land is remarkably retired and beautiful, and there 
is an old hut standing which affords something of a 
shelter. 

Long Island contains about 100 acres, and has been 
inhabited and cultivated. Besides these, there are 
many other islands on the neighbouring parts of the 
lake ; and those who are fond of such excursions 
would be highly delighted with devoting several days 
to visit them. The finest cluster is in the Narrows, 
about 12 miles distant. These will be spoken of 
hereafter. 

One steamboat usually goes three times a week to 
the north end of the lake ; but is alwavs ready to per- 
P 1 



170 EXCURSION TO LAKE GEOTfGE. 

form that excursion, and will take a party of twenty 
or niore for $1 each. 

West of the village is a remarkable conical eminence, 
called Rattlesnakes'' Cobble, or Prospect Hill. This, as 
well as the mountains beyond it, is the habitation of 
bears and deer, and much infested with rattlesnakes. 
The view from the top is very fine. It is the place 
from which Hawk-eye, in the " Last of the Mohicans," 
leads his companions into Fort William Henry through 
the mist. 

The French .Approaches. The village of Caldwell 
is of recent date. In the French war, during the siege 
of Fort William Henry, the ground which it now occu- 
pies was crossed by the trenches and batteries with 
which Montcalm finally succeeded in forcing the capi- 
tulation of that little fortress. 

The place where he landed with his army is the 
little cove just behind the new stone building, a few 
steps north of the hotel. He erected his battery near 
the shore, and ran his first trench across the street into 
the fields in front of the hotel. The remains may still 
be traced, as well as the marks of a small mortar bat- 
tery, near the bars of a fence leading to a small house. 
Another line runs to the bank of the lake, on this side 
of the brook, where was also a battery ; and another 
borders the swamp to the right, and another turns 
southward along the high ground. Behind this, in a 
pine wood, are the craves of about 1000 French sol- 
diers, who died in the fort. 

Battle of Lake George. 

In 1755, the year after the commencement of the 
French War, 3000 men were sent out from France to 
Quebec, for the purpose of taking Oswego Fort. This 
was situated at the mouth of the Osuego or Onon- 
dago River, and on the shore of Lake Ontario. The 
position derived its consequence from circumstances 
which no longer evist : the Indian trade from up the 



JiATTLE OP LAKE GEOKGE. Hi 

'Lakes, the facility of communication with the Five 
Nations throug:h that place, and the peculiar nature of 
the shores of Lake Ontario, which would not permit 

■navigation (by canoes) on the other side. There the 

(two great branches of Indian trade concentrated ; and 
the nation which held possession of the point neces- 
sarily swayed a great influence over the Indians them- 
selves : an advantage frequently of still greater impor- 
tance to the country. Oswego Fort naturally became 
an object both to the French and the English at that 
time, and it formed a prominent figure in the history 

j of the war. The English being in possession of that 

'little fortress at the commencement of hostilities, its 
defence might doubtless have been easily secured, 
had their operations been conducted with common 
prudence and energy. Unfortunately, they were con- 
ducted in a very different manner ; and whoever would 
see a clear and able history of the first English expe- 

'ditions in that war, and of the political party spirit 

twhich then ruled in this country and rendered them 

i worse than ineffectual, is referred to"./3 Letter to a 
Lordf'^ written soon after. 

In 1755, Gen. Johnson, (afterward Sir William,) 
marched to the south end of Lake George with a con- 

jsiderable number of men, joined by the famous Capt. 

iHendrick, with many Indians of the Five Nations, in- 
tending to take Fort Frederick, now Crown Point. 

iGen. Dieskau was sent to oppose him, with 3000 men, 
principally taken from a body of French troops sent 
out to Q,uebec, 600 of whom had fallen into the hands 
of Admiral Boscawen at sea. Dieskau had first de- 

I signed to besiege Fort Oswego. At Fort Frederick, 
or Crown Point, he remained some time, and then de- 
termined to go and meet the English. He therefore 
went up the South Bay. where, learning the situation 
of Fort Lyman (now Fort Edward,) he wished to 
attack it and cut off the retreat of Gen. Johnson. The 

I Indians and Canadians, however, were in dread of the 



172 EXCLUSION TO LAKE GEOKOE. 

cannon with which it was supposed to be defended, 
and he was obliged to march against Johnson. 

Sunday, Sept. 7th, at midnight, a scout brought 
Johnson intelligence that Dieskau was coming. 1200 
men were sent out in the morning, under the command 
of Col. Ephraim Williams, who met them at Rocky 
Brook, drawn up in a semicircle, into which the 
English entered before they knew it. A heavy fire 
from three sides first showed them the position of their 
enemies. The English stood their ground valiantly ; 
but Col. Williams and Hendrick being both shot down, 
together with many others, they were obliged to be- 
gin their retreat, which was conducted by Col. Whi- 
ting with the greatest coolness and success. 

The centre of the English army was posted on the 
bill where the ruins of Fort George now are ; and the 
French were discovered by them at half past 11. 
Dieskau halted at the sight of his enemies, probably 
entertaining some mistaken idea of the strength of 
their position, and gave them time to recover from 
their panic. The ground on both sides of the English 
camp was marshy and covered with trees, and Dies- 
kau sent his Indians out on the right flank and the 
Canadians on the left, to surround them. Col. Pome- 
roy, however, soon put the former to flight with a few 
cannon shots. Dieskau then brought up his troops in 
front, and made them fire by platoons, but with very 
little effect. Gen. Johnson (happily for his own troops) 
was slightly wounded in the thigh, and had to walk 
back to his tent, leaving the command with Gen. 
Lyman. He directed the defence for five hours, aided 
by Capt. Eyre's artillery ; when the French turned 
upon the English right, which consisted of Kuggles's, 
Po;iieroy's, and Tittecomb's reirimenis, and extended 
from the road to where Fort William Henry was after- 
ward built. Here they fought an hour, but the 
English and Indians charging them, they took to 
flight and manv were killed. Gen. Dieskau himself 



I 3rASSACaE AT FOET WILLIA3I HENRY. 1 73 

>vas found leaning against a stump wounded — a sol- 
dier approaching saw him put his hand to his waist, 
to take out his watch, which he intended to oflfer to 
him, and supposing he was dravving a pistol, shot 
him through the thigh. He was carried to the fort 
by eight men in a blanket, and it is said deterred 
Johnson from ordering a pursuit, by saying he had a 
strong force near at hand. Gf n. Lyman ui^ed to fol- 
low up their victory ; but that was probably a suffi- 
cient reason for its being refused by a superior officer, 
who looked upon his great talents with jealousy, and, 
I in spite of the advantage the country had derived 
from his services, at a time when they were pecu- 
liarly valuable, did not even mention the name of Gen, 
Lyman in his account of the battle ! — Johnson was 
made a Baronet, and Lyman lingered out a few years 
in poverty and disappointment, and died without re- 
ceiving even the notice of the British government. 
' The English are said to have lost only 216 in killed 
I and 96 wounded. Gen. Dieskau estimated his own 
I loss at 1000— the English called it much less. The 
j principal uere a major-general, and M. de St. Pierre, 
jthe commander of the Indians. The French lost their 
I baggage during the action, left two miles in their rear, 
lit being attacked Sy Captains Folsom and M'Ginnies 
I with about 100 New-York troops ; who then lay in 
I wait for the retreating French, and killed great num- 
bers of them. 

! Gen. Johnson might have taken Crown Point ; but 
he delayed it so long, that the French advanced to 
p Ticonderoga and there fortified themselves securely. 

The Capture and Massacre op Fort William 
Henry. 

So dififerent was the state of the country sixty years 
ago, and so much in its infancy was the art of war in 
these wild regions, thaf a small work of earth thrown 
up on this site, and called Fort William Henry, was 



174 KxcLHtHina TO lake tiEoiiGi;. 

regarded as a fortress of considerable strength and con- 
sequence. 

In 1757, the Earl of Loudon, British Commander-in- 
Chief in America, made an unsuccessful attempt by 
sea against Louisburg ; and before his return to New- 
York in August, the French from Ticonderoga, under 
the Marquis de Montcalm, had made three attacks on 
Fort William Henry. On the 1st of August they set 
out again, and landed at Frenchman's Point. On the 
evening of the 2d, they crossed to the west side of 
Lake George, within two miles of the Fort, and the 
next morning sent in their summons. Col. Monroe 
defended himself resolutely for six days, hoping relief 
from Gen. Webb and his 6000 men at Fort Edward ; 
but having waited in vain, and burst ten of his largest 
cannon, he was obliged to surrender, and marched 
out with the honours of war and an assurance of bemg 
protected from the Indians in Montcalm's army. 

He had gone but a little way, however, when the 
savages fell upon hi- troops and butchered about 1500, 
men, women, and children. 

Gen. Webb's conduct was most inhuman. The pro- 
vincial troops were kept under arms for one whole 
day alter the news of the siege arrived at Fort Ed- 
ward, and Sir William Johnson was very desirous to 
march with them to its relief; but Webb ordered them 
back to their quarters, and sent a messenger to CoL 
Monroe advising him to surrender. 

Attac:k on Fort Ticonderoga. 

The south end of Lake George was the scene of a 
splendid embarkation on the 4th of July of the tbllow- 
ing year [l758], when 10,000 provincial troops, and 
6 or 7000 regulars assembled at this place to proceed 
against Ticonderoga.* 1035 boats were drawn up to 

* Lord Kowe, wJio accompanied ll)is expedition, u as a young noble- 
nian of annable disposition and the most prrpcipsessing manners, and 
was almost idolized by the army, as well as admired and loved by the 

'•^■•■mtrv 



AlTACK Oi\ TICONDEKOGA. 1 T5 

ihe shore one clear delightful summer morning, and 
were speedily filled with this powerful army, except- 
ing only a small body left with the baggage. Success 
was confidently expected, and the appearance of the 
1 train was more like that of a triumphant return from 
war. The boats were decorated with gaudj^ streamers, 
' and the oars moved to martial music. The traveller 
will follow their route in the steamboat, for which see 
below. 

' They landed at the north end of the lake on the fol- 
lowing morning, and were ordered to march on in four 
] columns. The obstructions of the forest however soon 
broke their ranks ; when Lord Howe, with his centre 
column, falling in with the enemy's advance guard, 
•who were on their retreat and bewildered, was at- 
' tacked with a sudden war whoop and immediately 
killed. The provincials were accustomed to the 
woods, and drove back their enemies, killing about 
j300, and taking 148 prisoners, and all returned to the 
Handing. In the morning. Col. Bradstreet took pos- 
|;ession of the mill at the great falls on the river, and 
j'.he army were soon brought up to the French lines, 
jivhich were thrown up across the isthmus and not 
! inished. This intrenchment is still to be seen in tole- 
' able preservation. It had two redoubts and a deep 
|ibatlis, and is said to have been 8 or 9 feet high, 
j hough that seems improbable. The attack was 
jngorous, and the defence obstinate. The battle con- 
j inued four hours, during which the English were re- 
Julsed three times. The Highland regiment distin- 
guished itself, and suffered severely. The English 
OSS, in all, was 1944, principally regulars ; the French 
ery trifling, although they are said not to have ima- 
;ined the defence possible. Their force is differently 
tated from 1200 to 6000. Notwithstanding his supe- 
iority of force, Abercrombie shamefully ordered a 
fetreat ; and thus terminated the operations of the 
^ear. 



176 EXCURSION TO LAKE GJbiORGi: 



Voyage down Lake George. 

r" 

Leaving Caldwell, and passing Mr. Caldwell's house 
at a quarter of a mile, the steamboat passes Tea Island, 
Diamond, Long, and other islands, particularly the 
Two Sisters ; and then the lake becomes wider, and 
the surface more uninterrupted, the course of the boat 
being directly towards a remarkable eminence, with a 
double summit, called Tongue Mountain. That which 
partly shuts it in from this direction on the right, is 
Shelving Rock ; and Black Mountain shows \is rounded 
summit beyond it, a little to the right. This last is 
supposed to be about 2200 feet high, and is considered 
the highest mountain on the lake. 

Twelve Mile Island appears to be at the foot of 
Tongue Mountain, and is seen just ahead for a great 
distance after leaving Caldwell. It is of a singularly 
rounded form, covered with trees, with the utmost re- 
gularity, and protected from the washing of the waves 
by a range of large stones along the shore, so well dis- 
posed as to seem like a work of art. 

A rich and cultivated slope is seen on the western 
shore, before reaching Tongue Mountain, which be- 
longs to a new township. 



The Narrows. 



The lake is very much contracted where it passes 
between the mountains just mentioned, and their sur- 
face is for several miles broken by innumerable islands. 
These are of various sizes, but generally very small, 
and of little elevation. A few of them are named, as 
Green, Bass, Lone-tree islands. Some of them are 
covered with trees, others with shrubs, some show 
little lawns or spots of grass, heaps of barren rocks, or \ 
gently sloping shores; and most of them are orna- 
mented with graceful pines, hemlocks, and other tall 
tree;*, collected in groups, or standing alone, and dk- 



.>L>sea Willi Liioat charming variety. Sometimes an 
: island will be observed just large enough to support 
a few fine trees, or perhaps a single one, while the 
•next may appear like a solid mass of bushes and wild 
'Sowers ; near at hand, perhaps, is a third, with a dark 
^rove of pines, and a decaying old trunk in front of it : 
and thus, through every interval between the islands 
as you pass along, another and another labyrinth is 
Dpened to view, among little isolated spots oi ground, 
iivided by narrow channels, from which it seems im- 
possible for a person who should have entered them, 
ijver to find his way out. Some of the islands look 
ilmost like ships with their masts ; and many have an 
lir of lightness as if they were sailing upon the lake. 

After passing the Narrows, the lake widens again, 
ind the retrospect is, for several miles, through that 
)assage, with Tongue Mountain on the west, and 
Jlack Mountain opposite, the Luzerne range appearing 
t a great distance between them. The motmtains in 
'iew have generally rounded summits ; but the sides 
ire in many places broken by precipitous ledges, 
iThey are inhabited by wolves, deer, rattlesnakes, &c. 

Sabbath Day Point. — This is a low neck of land,, 
itretching into the lake from the Western shore, and 
iontaining the little village of Hague. That on the 
pposite shore is Putnam. 

I On Sabbath Day Point, Lord Amherst, with his 
lumerous host, stepped for refreshment upon the 
jioming of the Sabbath, and gave this beautiful point 
be name by which it is now known : it is a charming" 
pot, and susceptible of the greatest embellishment. 

Rogers' Rock and Anthony's Nose. 

These are two mountains at which the lake again 
/ontracts itself to pass between them. The shores of 
jie lake still continue elevated, and but a few culti- 
'ated farms are distinguishable here and there. An- 
ionv'.'^ Nose presents a orecipice.on the eastern ?hore. 



178 EXCUfiSIOSi TO LAKE GliOEGi:, 

as we enter the strait ; and the firing of a 2:iin piuQucL- 
ii fine echo. Rogers' Rock, or Rogers' Slide is a still 
more formidable one, on the other hand, a little furthei 
on. The last retrospect up the lake is stil! very (ine. 
even from this point — Black Mountain being yet 
clearly to be seen. 

Rogers' Slide has its name from Capt. Rosters, a 
partisan ollicer, who distinguished himselt in the 
French war by his boldness, activity, and success. 
He commanded an expedition which leit Crown Point 
in the year 1756, against the Canadian frontiers, and 
cut off the Indian village of St. Francis, afterward 
returning, with the severest hardships, by liie way of 
Connecticut river. Tradition says, that he was, at 
another time, closely pursued by a party of Indians, 
and forced to retreat to the verge of this mountain. 
Finding no other way to escape, he descended halt 
down by the ravine which opens towards the south, 
and then by a sudden turn came to the east side, 
where is a precipice about two hundred feet high ot 
smooth rock, and nearly perpendicular, down which 
which he slipped upon his snow shoes to the lake, 
escaping upon the ice. Tlie water is deep at the bot- 
tom, and fine trout are caught there with a long line. 

The lake here assumes the appearance of a narrovv- 
pond for three or four miles, and seems closed at both 
ends. The ground is still elevated on both sides, but 
hills have succeeded to mountains, and some of ihe.^f 
are at length overtopped by Black Mountain, whicli 
although at such a distance, at length makes ils ap 
pearance as^ain, and continues in sight. The lake a 
length diminishes to a very narrow stream, and lh( 
bottom becomes gradually covered with weeds. 

Lord Howe's Landing is just behind an island c. 
three acres, on the left-hand at the entrance of the 
creek. Here is the spot where the unfortunate expe- 
dition of Abercrombie etfected their landing, and on 
the island they established their hospital, on their way 
to Mie attack of Ticonderos'a- 



TICOKDEBOGA- 11^3 

L The steamboat passes on some distance beyond this 
jjace, and lands her passengers on the other sid^ 
vhere, at her regular voyages, carriages are found ri| 
jvaiting to convey them to Ticonderoga, three miles, "^ 
;ver a rough road. 

Those vvho intend to take a steamboat on Lake 
ohaniplain, should be careful to inquire the hour when 
t passes, and regulate their time accordingly. Ticon- 
ieroga has become one of the stopping places, which 
vill prove a great convenience to the numerous tra~ 
(«llers attracted to this interesting spot. 

Abercrombie's army passed for some part of the way 
long the route we travel. Passing the Upper Falls, 
vhich are the highest, he forded the creek above the 
econd. At the Falls near the bridge which we cross, 
ust above the sawmills, was a stone blockhouse ; 
I nd there was a redoubt on the north side of the stream 
jiear the bridge, where, as in several other places, 
I here was some fighting to carry the French outposts. 
I At the Upper Falls" are several valuable sawmills 
I nd forges, and the scenery is highly picturesque. 

THE FORTRESS OF TICONDEROGA. 

This famous old fortress, or rather its remains, are 
iistinctly seen from Lake Champlain, though, from the 
lirection by which we approach it, they are discovered 
)nly at a short distance. An elevated piece of land, 
gently sloping towards the south, and ending abruptl}^ 
)ver a bend of the lake, appears, partially covered with 
lees, and crowned rjear its extremity with a cluster 
,{ broken walls and chimneys. There is a meadow 
>n the eastern side, running to the base of the ridge, 
md across this is a footpath from the ferry to the fort 
}y the nearest way. A carriage road also leads from 
he ferr^^ to the ridee. and thence dnv^n in ihe s?»rno 



V^^> ROUTE TO OA^■A]DA 



0- The Old French Lines, 

where General Abercrombie was defeated in 1758, arie 
the only part of the fortification which was ever the 
scene of a battle. They commenced on the east side, 
at a battery of heavy cannon on the shore, about a 
quarter of a mile south of the ferry. The remains ol 
the breastwork can yet be seen. The lines were 
drawn in a zig-zag ; first stretching oflf to the right, 
along the side of marshy ground to a cluster of bushes 
where was a battery ; and then to the left to the verge 
of a wood, where was another. 

Their course may be distinctly traced in this man- 
ner, across the ridge of land at its highest elevation, 
over to the brow of a steep bank looking towards the 
outlet of Lake George. The ground is so high on the 
top of this ridge, that it must have been a commanding 
position when clear of trees. The woods that now so 
much interrupt the sight, have grown since the evacu- 
ation of the fortress, after the revolutionary war. 

There is a fine spring of water near the western 
part of the French lines, where a bloody engagement 
occurred between two hostile parties during the battle. 
Bodies of men have been dug up hereabouts within a 
few years, and shot were formerly very frequently 
found in old timber. 

Mount Hope is a hill about a mile north from this 
place. It was occupied by General Burgoyne's British 
line, which formed the right wing on his approach to 
Ticonderoga, on the 2d of June, 1777. 

In proceeding from the French lines south towards 
the fortress, by a gentle descent, the surface of the 
ground appears to have been in some places smoothed 
in former times by the plough, and by the removal and 
cutting away of rocks, to render it convenient for the 
evolutions ot troops, and the use of artillery. A close 
obsprvor will also remark that he passes the remain^ 



TIC0M)ER0GA 1 8 I 

of sereva} distinct lines of small redoubis, placed at 
equal distances, and ranged in the form of a quincunx. 
These were intended to embarrass still further the ap- 
proach to the fortress, which assimies the air of a more 
important work as you approach it. 

There are two old intrenchments, 270 and 150 yards 
from the fortress ; and then comes the edge of the 
outer ditch or counterscarp, where there was a row of 
palisadoes. Five steps more bring you to the walled 
side of the ditch, which is still eight feet deep in some 
places, and therefore impassable except where it has 
been partly filled up. Its breadth is generally about 
8 or 9 yards, and the wall of the fortress on the other 
side in some places 20 or 25 feet high. 

The fortress is of an angular form, and embraces a 
large tract of ground, being divided into parts by deep 
ditches, which were defended by cannon and musketr^^, 
afid added very much to the security of the place. 
The communication between these different parts was 
kept up by stone staircases, placed in convenient po- 
sitions of the angles, all so calculated as to make the 
descent into the ditches and the ascent circuitous and 
intricate, and open to the cannon and small arms. A 
glance at some of those that remain will show the plan. 
The walls were originally much higher than at present, 
being raised by superstructures of logs filled in with 
earth, to such a height as to protect the barracks. 

The Barracks formed an oblong, and the walls still 
remain of all except those on the eastern side ; their 
form is plainly distinguishable. The parade, which 
they include, appears to have been formerly carefully 
smoothed. This area is about 52} yards long, and 8 
in breadth. The barracks, &c., the walls of which 
remain on the north, south, and west sides, are built 
of the rough blue limestone, of which the neighbour- 
ing rocks are formed, two stories high ; and these, 
with the chimneys, several of which are standing, are 
the principal objects seen from a distance. By the 
ipouthern entranc^-> Ethan Allen entf^red with his ^ 



it"^ llObfrK TO CANADA. 

raw soldiers, when he surprised the fortress on the Ibtn 
May, 1775; and on reaching the court yard and calling 
on the commander to surrender, the British officer, 
Capt. Deplace, made his appearance at a window and 
submitted, delivering up 3 officers and 44 rank and file. 
In consequence of this coup de main, this important 
place was in the hands of the Americans until the 
arrival of Burgoyne, in 1777. 

The battlements of Ticonderoga first bore the flag 
of independence. This circumstance should of itself 
render this ruin, so fine in other associations, interesting 
to the traveller. 

At each comer was a bastion or a demi-bastion ; and 
under that in the north-eastern one is a subterranean 
apartment, the access to which is through a small 
entrance near that corner of ihe court yard. It com- 
municates with two magazines at the further end : that 
on the left, which is the larger, being 19 or 20 feet 
long. The room is also arched, measures about 35 
feet in length, 21 in breadth, and 10 or 11 in height, 
and like the magazines was bomb proof. The cellars 
south of this, which belonged to the demolished build- 
ings, and are almost filled up, have a room or two with 
fireplaces still distinguishable. 

The Grenadiers' Battery. 

This important outwork is situated on a rocky point 
towards the east from the main fortress. They were 
connected by a covered way, the traces of which are 
distinctly visible. It was surrounded by a wall faced 
with stone, with five sides, one of which measures 
about 180 feet; but that towards the lake has been 
undermined by time, and slipped down the bank. The 
remaining parts are nearly entire, and about 10 feet 
high. 

^till in advance of the Grenadiers' Battery is a small 
work of earth, which might have containecf fire or six 
a?uBs : while in front of it. and on the extreme point. 



MdtrvT l>EFIANCEe iJJo 

vvo or three more guns appear to have been placed 
etween the rocks, to fire down upon the water, about 
feet below. A little further east, and under the 
ank, is an old stone house, formerly a store belonging 
) the fort, and now occupied by the tenant of Mr. 
'ell, the proprietor of the whole peninsula of Ticon- 
eroga. On a spot formerly occupied as the King\'i 
rarden, Mr. P. has a fine garden, abounding in the 
hoicest fruits imported from Europe, and transported 
'om the celebrated nurseries of Long (sland. If it is 
le intention of the traveller to cross the lalve, to the 
eighbouring Vermont shore, where are still some 
ight remains of Burgoyne's intrenchments, he will 
e much pleased with a walk across the meadows to 
le upper ferr}'-, a distance of about three-quarters of a 
lile. 

Between the Grenadiers^ Battery and the fortress, 
le shore retains traces of many little terraces, breast- 
.^orks, and buildings, such as were probably work- 
lops, barracks, stores, &c. 

The great mountain, which rises dark and abruptly 
om the opposite shore, is 

Mount Defiance, about 800 feet high, on the summit 
f which Gen. Burgoyne's troops showed themselves 
n the morning of July 4th, 1777, with a battery of 
eavy cannon, which they had drawn up along the 
;dge by night, and planted in that commanding ^osi- 
on, whence they could count the men in the fort. 
^he distance to the summit in a straight line is about 
mile, so that the defence of Ticonderoga would have 
een impossible ; and on the firing of a few shots by 
le British upon a vessel in the lake, which proved the 
ange of their guns, the Americans made preparations 
) evacuate the place, and eflfected their retreat to the 
pposite shore during the night. 
The ascent of Mount Defiance is laborious, but the 
iew is extremely fine from its summit. There are the 
smains of Burgoyne's battery, with holes drilled in the 
•)cks for blasting, and the marks of a larsre blockhouse. 



184 hoi;t£ to ijanada. 

Mount Independence is a hill of comparativeiy smaJ' 
elevation east of Mount Defiance, and separated froni 
it by the lake, uhich has here reduced its size totha! 
of a small river. On a bank, just above the water, 
are the remains of a zig-zag: battery for about 40 or 
50 guns, rutming across a little cornfield behind a 
house, and making five or six angles. The Horse- ' 
shoe Battery is traceable on an elevation about a 
quarter of a mile in the rear. A bridge once connected 
Ticonderoga with Mount Defiance, the buttresses of 
which are remaining, to the great annoyance of the 
uavigators of the lake ; the steauiboat passes to the 
south of them. On the west shore (near the stone 
storehouse), Arnold, wiien pursued by the British, 
caused his flotilla to be run on shore. These hulkh 
remain almost as sound as when first stranded. A 
forty-two pounder is said to have ranged from the 
Horseshoe over this channel (now marked by i< 
buoy) and the fortress. 

Alter the Kev^;lutionary war about 500 cannon were 
lying about the fortress, lines, &.c. many of them as 
left by the Engh'sh with their trunnions knocked off. 

The mountainous region on the west side of the 
Jake abounds with deer, and considerable numbers are 
killed every season. 

The Passage fbom Ticonderoga down Lakt: 

ClIAMPLAIN 

is very pleasant, abounding, the greater part of the 
way to Canada, with fine natural scenes. 

The improvements produced in the country en- 
closing Lake Champlain, by the establishment of 
steamboats and the opening of the Northern Canal, 
have been very great. The produce formerly sent 
southward was necessarily subject to he:.vy expenses 
of transportation ; while the merchandise brought in 
return was liable to delay, uncertainty, injuries by land 
carriage, and exposure to tlie weather and topilferer^.i 



LAKE CilAHrLALN. 185 

s.-vVich are obviated, and these circumstances, it is well 
cnown, produce powerful effects. The towns on the 
ake, five or six years ago, were ill supplied with mer- 
chandise, which is now found in abundance and cheap. 
5ome of them have more than doubled their size since 
1822, and numerous villages have sprung up into acti- 
vity and thrift from almost nothing. New roads have 
Jso been made into the interior, and mills have been 
erected on the tributary streams for cutting up the sup- 
plies of valuable timber in the forests. In the two 
;ownships of Crown Point and Moriah, there are abou. 
30 lumber mills, which will be able to furnish a million 
3f pieces of timber. They contain also vast beds of 
iron ore, for which forges and furnaces have been 
arected. The iron region lies between the lake and 
Lhe north-eastern branch of the Hudson, which heads 
a miles west of it. 

At Swanton, Vt., are quarries of dove-coloured and 
black marble, where 300 saws are kept at work. It 
is carried to New-York in considerable quantities. 

Great numbers of small schooners navigate the wa- 
ters of Lake Champlain, and within a few years nu- 
merous canal boats, some of them fitted with masts 
for schooners for sailing. Annesley's mode of building 
vessels has lately been adopted here to some extent, 
in which timbers are discarded, and hulls formed of 
inch boards running in several thicknesses, and in cross 
directions. 

Only about 20 vessels sailed on this lake before the 
canal was opened to the Hudson. In 1827 there were 
•318 owned in the limits of the United States, with an 
amount of tonnage of about 12,000. Lake vessels and 
boats were employed on the canal every year to the 
number of about 375. 

Five Mile Point was the landing place of Gen. Bur- 
goyne's expedition, as already mentioned. Mountains 
appear in the west and north-west, with occasional 
intervals all the way up to Crown Point ; while in the 
Rorth is 3 lofty and impo.-ina" ranere, with two or three 



1"86 KOI TJ; TO C'A^AUA. 

peaks almost bald from the heig^ht of their eievatiou. 
Summits multiply as we proceed, and distant moun- 
tains arise also in the north-east ; while Mount Defiance 
and other eminences towards the southbound the view 
in that direction. There are scattering- farms and 
houses on both shores. 

There are many tish cau?:ht in some parts of the lake. 
The shores are in this part strewed with the fragments 
of blue limestone rock with organic remains. The 
immediate shores are generally low all the way tO' 
Crown Point, where the lake suddenly turns to the 
west at a right angle, and at the distance of a mile as 
suddenly to the north again. A low stretch of land, 
covered with a youvig forest on the left, conceals the 
approach to this ancient fortress, which, for position 
as well as appearance and history, may be called the 
twin sister ol Ticonderoga. 

Chimney Pointy where the steamboat often receives 
and lands passengers, is on the north side of the lake, 
with a large public house in a pleasant situation ; and 
here is the place to stop, if the traveller intends to 
visit Crown Point, which is opposite, across a ferrjf 
of u mile. 

A ferry boat will take the traveller over to Crown 
Point at any hour, but the steamboat proceeds imme- 
diately. 

TUE FOETEESS OF CSOWN PoiST. 

There arc several old works thrown up along the 
shore, with little bays between them. The eastern- 
most is called tiie Grenadiers' Battery, the middle one 
is the original old Fiench fort of 1731, and now encloses 
a garden ; and that further west is an outwork to a 
bastion of the fortre5;s. 

The fortress is situated about a quarter of a mile 
back from the shore, and appears much like Ticonde- 
roga from a distance, showing the walls and chimneys 
nf the old b'firrarks, -av^A wa,]ls o^ earth ^urroiin'^ins" 



(JiioVviSi ioiiNi'. 187 

|;ibem. iii regard to its plan, however, ii 13 mateiially 
different. The fortress of Crown Point was a star 
work, being in the form of a pentagon, with bastions 
at the angles, and a strong redoubt at the distance of 
|250 or 300 yards in advance of each of them. The 
fortress is surrounded by a ditch walled in widi stone^ 
except where it h;is been blasted into the solid rock 
of blue limestone, (^as is the case in many parts, from 
five to twenty-five teet,) and even into the quartz rock 
which underlays it. Univalve shells are found in the 
jlimestone rock, frequently four inches in diameter. 
jTlie walls are about 20 or 25 feet high, and there is a 
convenient path running entirely round upon the top, 
interrupted only by the gates at the north and south 
sides. Although much shaded by tall sumacs, 
some fine views are enjo3^ed in making the circuit, 
which is not f^ir short of half a mile. It was built 
in 1736. 

j Opposite the north gate is a small ledge of rocks ; 
and close by, the remains of a covered or subterraneous 
Way to the kike shore. On entering the fortress, the 
stranger finds himself in a level, spacious area, bounded 
en the left, and in front, by long ruinous buildings oi" 
stone, two stories high, and the first 220 feet long, while 
the ruins of similar ones are seen on two sides on the 
right. This parade is about 500 feet in length. The 
place was surprised by Col, Warner in 1T75. 

Ttie view from the walls towards the north is very 
fjne : looking down the lake, which widens at the 
distance of two or three miles, you have Chimney 
Point on the right, and two other Points projecting 
beyond* the distant peak, called OitneVs Hump. A 
range of mounts ins on the weslern shore, beginning at 
the distance of 18 miles, including Bald Peak, gra- 
dually approach till they tbrni a near and bold boundary 
to the lake on the left, scattered with cleared farms 
and houses, and then stretching away to the south, 
terminate in the mountains behind. This elevation, 
although it seenjs almost as well calculated to com- 



iou Roli'E TO CA^AUA. 

rnand (Jrowu Point as Mount Defiance doe5 'I'lcofjdfc- 
roga, is not less than four miles distant. 

Every thing about this old fortress bears the marks 
of ruin. Two magazines were blown up ; the timbers 
in the south barracks are burnt black ; a portion of the 
shingled roof which remains serves to cover a little 
hay mow and the nests of robins ; while some of the 
entrances and other parts are fenced up for a sheep 
fold. The ground around it is much covered with 
fragments ot blasted rocks, and, particularly at the 
south, with the ruins of old buildings. The trees which 
are seen have grown since the evacuation of the place ; 
and on one of the angles is an inscription of the date 
of the fortress. 

In 1776, the British had a fleet on Lake Champlain. 
composed of the following vessels : ship Inflexiblej, 
Capt. Pringle, carrying 18 twelve-pounders ; two 
schooners, one with 14, the other with 12 six-pounders ; 
a flat-bottomed radeau with 6 twenty-fours and 6 
twelves ; and 20 small craft, each carrying a gun from 
nine to twenty-four pounders, and several long-boats? 
besides boats for baggage stores, &;c. 

The Americans had only 2 brigs, I corvette, 1 sloop^ 
3 galleys, and 8 gondolas, the largest vessel carrying 
only 12 six and four-pounders. These were under the 
command of x\rnold, who drew them up between the 
island of Valincourt and the western shore, where they 
were attacked. They fought four hours, and the 
British at last retreated ; but while making his way 
towards Crown Point, Arnold was overtaken, and 
nearly all the squadron fled up the lake, passing this 
place which was evacuated. Arnold remained fighting 
as long as possible, and did not leave his vessel until 
she had taken fire. 

On making a signal at the ferry to the steamboat, 
she will stop and send for a passenger. Proceeding 
down the lake, the breadth of it soon increases, and at 
the two islands on the right it is about 1| miles aero?- 
A little further i's 



Fut-iii-Bay, on the eastern shore, with an island of 
he same name. A little north of this is a small island 
n the right, with three bushes on it, which has hence 
,btained' the name of the Scotch Bonnet. Looking 
outh the lake presents a fine expanse, extending almost 
Crown Point, with Bald Peak conspicuous on the 
ight. . 

Basin Harbour is a stoppmg place. It is very 
mall, with room for only 3 or 4 vessels. At a great 
listance in the N. E. is seen the Camel's Hump : fur- 
her north a high mountain in Halifax, Vt. 

Sloop Island, 17 miles from Burlington, is low m the 
niddle, and contains several trees, which look not 
nlike masts. It was mistaken for a sloop in a misty 
iay, in the Revolutionary or French war, and fired 
pon by a vessel, whence its name. 

At Hartford the lake suddenly opens to the breadth 
f several miles, and a new scene is presented to view. 
)n the west side is a rounded island covered with pine 
rees, like much of the shore previously seen, and 
eparated from the mainland only by a narrow rent 
.f about fifteen feet. Apparently just within this 
perture is a rude arch of rock, like the remains of an 
.ncient bridge. A beautiful bay makes up behind the 
sland, of which a glimpse is caught in passing ; and a 
ittle further north it opens beautifully to view, with a 
mooth declining shore cultivated for several miles ; 
vhile a blue range of the Alleghanies rises behind 
hem, like the Catskill Mountains seen from the city 
)f Hudson. 

On the eastern side, the Green Mountains tower at a 
listance over the wild, uncultivated shore, till a cluster 
,f white buildings is discovered forming the little vil- 
age of Charlotte or M'Neil's Ferry, which is backed 
3y a few fields and orchards. Further north the shores 
ire rocky, and rise abruptly from the water. 



BURLINGTOiN, 

75 miles from Whitehall. 

This is the largest town on Lake Champiain, and is 
situated in a commanding as well as a delightful po- 
sition. The lake suddenly widens as you approach it j 
from the south, and a fine semicircular bay puts up to 
it from the west, surrounded by a crescent of high 
ground, under the shelter of which the town is situated. 
The view from the top of the hills is truly admirable ;^ 
embracing in the foreground the elegant gardens of \ 
some of the wealthier inhabitants, with the streets of 
Burlington below, the curving form of the ba)', the 
whole breadlii of the lake, here ten miles across, and 
a noble chain ^^i distant blue mountains on the opposite 
side. The college has been rebuilt. The road to 
Windsor by the Gulf is very good and interesting. 

The road to Montreal passes Swanton, St. Alban's, 
&c. The lake is occasionally in sight ; and for a dis- 
tance of six miles, round the head of Missiscoui Bay, 
the road runs along the shore. At that place vast 
quantities of lumber are annually collected. 
■i There has lately been established here a glass-house, 
on a large scale. 

Port Kent, 10 miles, 

is a small village on the western shore, 16 miles from 
Burlington. It was begun to be built in 1824, to serve 
as a port to the iron works established a little back in 
the country, where there is a vast quantity of ore. 
About 2000 tons of iron ore are annually made at Essex 
and Clinton ; and 5000 or 6000 tons might be furnished. 
it contains two large stores, a wharf, &,c. 

A railway has been contemplated from this place to 
Clintonville on the Sable river, where are extensive 
mines of iron. The land is favourable, a!]d the wholr 



11 



North 



>:Kidh«lat 



./^ . 




Fort Keiit-^y</<i//'t/'.esi 



^ 



"-'//. 



BATTLE OP PLATTiSBURGM. 191 

work, 15 miles, would probably cost only $45,000. In 
1827, not less than $20,000 were paid for the trans- 
portation of the article to Lake Champlain. 

The opening of the state road, already authorized 
by the Leg:islature, from the Lake to Hopkinton, St. 
Lawrence Co. will introduce great activity into that 
district. Inexhaustible beds of iron ore will be wroug-ht 
near this route. 

FLATTSBURGH, 8 miles. 

This is a town of considerable importance, situated 
on the banks of a small river called the Saranac, and 
just behind the high and steep bank of the lake, on 
which is a line of forts erected for the detence of the 
place. The town commands a fine view. There are 
some remarkable Waterfalls on the Saranac. 

Plattsburgh was the scene of a land and naval battle 
during the late war with Great Britain. 

The Battle of Plattsbubgh. 

While Gen. Macomb was stationed at Plattsburgb, 
Sir George Prevost came from Canada with an army, 
and occupying the village, stood ready to attack the 
American troops, who were in position on the elevated 
ground, between the east bank of the Saranac and the 
precipitous shore of the lake, where a number of forts, 
&c. are still to be seen. Com. M'Donough was at that 
time on the lake with the American squadron ; and 
hearing of the approach of Capt. Downie with the 
British ships, extended his line between Hospital 
Island and Cumberland Head, where he received and 
fought the enemy, with such success as to capture all 
his vessels. The action continued 2 hours and 20 
minutes, and was performed in full sight of the armies. 
Capt. Downie's ship, the Confiance, had 105 shot in 
her hull, and the Saratoga 59, and was twice on fire. 
This battle caused the retreat of Prevost, and relieved 
•hat onrf nf th^ ronnfrv from being overrun. 



192 HOLTE TO CANADA. 

M^Donough'S Farm lies on that part of Cumberland 
Head which is opposite the scene of his battle, and 
consists of 200 acres. It was presented to him by the 
legislature of Vermont,* in gratitude for his victory 

CHAZY, 15 7mles. 
Rouse's Point, 12 miles. 

There is a village by this name, on the western side ; 
and a mile beyond it, 

The Fort, which is a kind of large castle, built of 
hewn stone, with perpendicular walls, and three tiers 
of embrasures. It stands at the end of a low point, 
and was built to command the passage of the lake 
during the last war. On running the line of the United j 
States and Canada, the commissioners at first fixed the n 
boundary a little south of this place, so as to bring the 
fort within the limits of the latter ; but in consequence 
of the line agreed on by the treaty coming too near 
Quebec, it was determined that an arrangement should 
be made for the benefit of both parties ; and the 
boundary has been left in its former place. An opening 
through the woods, like a road, marks the place, about 
half a mile north of the fort. 

A committee of Congress has proposed to the United 
States, to purchase land here, and open a canal to St. 
Regis, on the St. Lawrence. The lowest summit level 
on American ground, would be 960 feet above Lake 
Champlain. 

The country hereabouts is very uninteresting : for 

* St. Mban's. At St. Allian's, in Vermont, an extensive " slide," or 
avalanche, occurred on tiie 4tli of July, 1827, of almost unprecedented 
extent. It began on the norlh-west side of Mansfield MoniilaiM near thfl 
top, which is 4,279 feel above tide water. It was from 20 lo 30 jaida in 
breadth, and niaved down 3 miles, although the greater part of the sur- 
face was gradually sloping, with the exception of a precipice of near 
100 feet. 

Tlie top of the mountain (the highest in the state) overlooks a part o; 
Canada. Now- York and New-Hampshire, to the 'White lM(iunfa.!i2.«. 



sT. John's. 19:3 

the level country has begun which extends far into 
Canada. The appearance of the banks is quite uni- 
form ; they being low, and in many places almost 
j overflown by the waters of the lake. 

Isle alx Noix, 11 miles. 

I This is the English frontier post, and has been chosen 
I with judgm.ent ; as although the ground is of hardly 
any elevation, it is higher thnn any in the neighbour- 
I hood ; and the island is so situated as partly to occupy 
I the channel, and entirely to command it. 
' There is a long wall and battery on the south side, 
; with angle? ; beyond which are seen a large stone 
' building, and the roofs of others on the left and right 
lof/it, forming the storehouses, &c. of the post. The 
i channel is on the east side, and very narrow, faced for 
a considerable distance by another battery. Sentries 
are posted in different places. The ship-yard suc- 
ceeds, and the officers' quarters, generally neat, one- 
story buildings, with little gardens tastefully laid out. 
Here is a landing-place in the Chinese style. A large 
stockaded building, which is the hospital, succeeds, 
with a large arch raised on the shore, bearing the 
ro3'al crown. The little cabins are the soldiers' quar- 
ters, and some of them are neat, and ornamented with 
flowers. 

The expedition against Canada, in 1775, consisted 
of two divisions : one of 3000 New-England and New- 
\ork soldiers, under Generals Schuyler and Montgo- 
i^iery, proceeded down Lake Champlain in rafts, from 
Ticonderoga and Crown Point, and took position at 
Isle aux Noix. The other, which was planned and 
despatched subsequently, consisted of a large body, 
under Gen. Arnold, and proceeded through the wil- 
derness, in the District of Maine, for Quebec. The 
former division, after a little delay, proceeded to St. 
>lohn's. They afterward formed at this place a che- 
vanx-de-frieze in the river. 
I? ? 



3 94 EOUTE TO (?a:\ada. 

Beyond, the shores continue low and uninierestiiii;, 
with numerous cabins of settlers near the water, the 
forest encroaching to within a short distance behind. 

St. Joh?«'s, 10 miles. 

Here the steamboat stops, at the head of the rapids, 
and at the end of navigation. Stage coaches are some- 
times kept in readiness to take the passengers directly 
on their way to Montreal (16 miles by land, and 9 
by water, on the St. Lawrence, in a steamboat). But 
the arrangements are sometimes different, and it has 
even been the custom often to spend a night in this 
place, rhe stage house, on the left-hand, about a 
quarter of a mile up the main street, is in some re- 
spects an excellent house. 

The village presents nothing worthy of particular 
attention, except as the scene of some military deeds, 
connected with the expedition of Gen. Montgomery 
against this country. While the continental troops 
were stationed at Isle aux Noix, in 1775, Generals 
Montgomery and Schuyler invested the fort, which 
contained a garrison of 5 or 600 troops, besides 200 
Canadians, and was commanded by Major Preston- 
Tlie siege lasted 6 weeks, and they did not capitulate 
till some time after the surrender of Chambly, nor till 
the Americans had brought their trenches to the walls 
of the fort. They then obtained possession of 17 
brass pieces, 22 iron, 7 mortars, with balls, bombs, 
&c. &c. 

The Canadian money is different from that of the 
United States ; but in consequence of the continual 
intercourse, the latter passes currently. Nine sous or 
coppers, (which are of various and sometimes curious 
stamps,) equal six cents. 2 sous nearly Id. and 20 
cents a shilling. 

The pleasantest road from St. John's to Montreal, is 
by Chambly, and Longueil, (for which, see Index.) 

Leaving St. John's for Montreal, by Laprairie, ^the 



.AssiaiipHcn 



I.L4vadie -* 



LOWEK CANADA, 19,^ 

i3g-6 I'ouie,) the road passes about a mile along the 
vestern shore of the River Richelieu, which some 
imes takes the names of St. John's and Sore], in con- 
equence of its running by those towns. Several 
mountains are in sight, as Beloeil, Boucherville, &c. 

The Rapids may be regarded as a specimen, on a 
mall scale, of the numerous rapids in the St. Law- 
lence, which will hereafter excite the interest, if not 
he apprehension, of the stranger. The bed of the Ri- 
. helieu has a rapid descent in several places, where it 
omes immediately under observation, and becomes so 
I hallow as to be passable for the flattest boats only 
luring the floods. In the summer it is generally only 

few inches deep, and the surface broken by nu- 
Mierous stones of all sizes, and here and there by little 
waterfalls near the shore. At the same time the 
i'anks are low and flat ; the houses of one floor, white- 
washed, and built at nearly equal distances, facing the 
jiver; and, in short, the general character of a scene 
in the St. Lawrence, may be imagined from a vic^^ 
here, by making allowance for its size and fertility. 
I It has been proposed to make a canal to the St. 
jiawrence ; but it is said that the channel of the St. 
ohn's might be improved, by stone walls to confine 
■he water over these rapids. The Chambly rapids 
light be passed by a short canal : and the only re- 
gaining obstructions till those at the mouth are at St. 
lierese and Mille Roches. 

The inhabitants along the road present the aspect of 
jreigners, in dress, countenance, manners, customs, 
nd language. Their fashions are antique, and man}^ 
•f them have not been changed for ages : the men 
*'ear the Canadian jacket, cap, or hat, red sash, and 
loccasin of rough leather. The women work labo- 
iously in the field, and all of them speak French, ge- 
'erally without knowing a word of any other lan- 
:uage. The farms will be observed, laid out in strips 
f 1 or 200 acres, flat, broad, and 1, 2, or even 3 miles 
1 length : ^nd the system of farminsr is extremelv had. 



106 ROUTE TO CANADA. 

as Avill be discovered at once, by the acres that are 
consigTied to the useless and destructive little Canada 
Thistle. There is no such thing known here as the 
doctrine of a rotation of crops, and land is recovered \ 
to fertility by lying fallow, except that lately the use J 
of manure has begun to be resorted to in a small de- 
gree. The horses are of a small breed, well knowii 
in the northern states by the name of the country. 
They are small and slow, but powerful and hardy. 
Many of them are driven .icross the line, and large 
horses introduced into the towns in return. The 
value of a common Canadian horse is about $40 ; and 
of a good one, ^60. Tht* land titles are extremely 
doubtful : no register being kept, and no security 
being provided by means of which the legal propriety 
may be certainly ascertained. The Legislature, hoiv- 
ever, have had this subject before them. 

There is very little to be seen on this road to inLo- 
rest the traveller, except the novelty of what he ob- 
serves. There is little encouragement to settlers, 12 
per cent, is payable to the Seigneur, on sales of real 
estate, besides other heavy taxes of different descrip- 
tions. The landscape* is unvarying : the inhabitants, 
as well as the soil, are poor ; and there is nothing that 
deserves the name of a village. As appears from tes- 
timony received by a Committee of the British House 
of Commons not lon^ since, in many cases land of ex- 
actly the same description is worth from 10 to 15 shil- 
lings an acre on the Vermont and iS'ew-York side of 
the line, and only 1 shilling on the Canada side. We 
pass a house now and then, dignified by a taJl pole or 
mast raised in front of it, which is a singular mark of 
distinction conceded to officers of militia, and usually 
adopted by those of the lowest grades. 

The people appear very happy, and have healthy 
countenances, inclining to round faces and thick lips. 
Many of them show the upper fronr teeth when silent ; 
and their aspect, although oftentimes shrewd, denotes 
a want of education, which is the real cause of thf^ 



LArKAlKIE. I Hi 

, backward condition of society in Canada. They are 
ill Catholics ; and the churches seen here and there 
jpon the road, are devoted to the service of the 
iomish church. One large church, lately built of grar 

'tone, will be seen on the south side of the road. 

l It has been suggested that a railroad might be ad- 

j'antageously constructed from St. John's to Laprairie. 

) The Half-Way House 



js dirty and disagreeable ; but the inhabitants under- 
jtand English, and it is generally stopped at only a few 
ninutes. The land is divided in some places by 
,i itches round the farms; and there are the channels of 
jeveral small streams which cross the road. One 
j'f these is passed on a bridge, just east of the stop- 
Ding place. 

About half a mile beyond, are some barracks built 

or troops, dio'ing the late war. One of the most sin- 

^^:ular traits in the domestic arrangements of the Cana- 

lians, is building the oven not only out of doors, like 

he Dutch, but directly over the pig sty. 

The mountain from which the city of Montreal de- 
lved its name, and which rises immediately behind 
t, may be discovered at a great distance ; and the 
jiouse of Mr. M°Tavish may be perceived, like a 
vhite spot, a little distance up its side. 

Some time before reaching the river, you pass an 
;xtensive common, lying on the south side of tlio road. 
■nd then the town of 

Laprairie. 

This is a large town, from which the steamboat.^ 
VIontreal and Edmund Henry cross several times ;i 
'lay, to Montreal, 9 miles. The place is built after 
j he Canadian fashion ; and very few of the inhabit- 
I'nts speak English. The streets are narrow, the: 
houses low. and nnthina* is to bo ppen worthy of pr^r 



198 KIVER ST. LAW KEN Li:. 

ticular notice, excepting; a nunnery and the churcii. 
both which may seem curious to persor)s who are noi 
familiar with Catholic countries ; though of inferior 
interest to those of Montreal and Quebec. The nuns 
possess a larg^e tract of land, nearly in the centre ot 
the town, which is surrounded by a high wall : and 
they devote their time to the care of the sick, and the 
education of girls. 

The view of Montreal from the wharf is uninter- 
rupted. The city is distinguished at the distance of 
9 miles, by its thick mass of buildings, roofed with I 
sheets of tin, and overtopped by church spires, shining ! 
with the same metal. Behind it rises a line moun- J 
tain, spotted with orchards ; on the right, down the 
St. Lawrence, is the fortified island of St. Helen ; and 
on the left, that of the Nuns, and several smaller ones 
at a distance, through which are seen the sheets of 
white foam caused by the rapids. The shores are 
low and perfectly flat in every direction ; which, with 
the wide expanse of water, gives an aspect of tire- 
some monotony and extension to the scene. At a 
great distance up are seen Isle Heron and others. Uni- 
formity will be found characteristic of almost the 
whole voyage to Qtiebec. 

The current of the river will appear extremely 
rapid, particularly near those parts where the surface 
is broken by rocks ; but the steamboats are supplied 
with engines comparatively powerful, and are able to 
effect the passage with facility and in safety. It is 
impossible for any boat to go through the current | 
without being borne rapidly down in some places ; 
and there is a part of the river near the middle, where 
the water is clear, and the rocks are easily seen on ; 
the bottom, as the boats glide on above them. In re- 
turning, the boats sometimes pass between two rocks, 
near the rapids, that on the east being under water. 
Here the river is much agitated, and sometimes thrown 
the water on deck without any danger. 

A particular description of the various obierts if 



Monti eal, and the vicinity, will be postponed for the 
present ; and it is necessary here to mention only the 
more prominent objects which strike the eye on the 
approach. 

A large tinned roof on the left, with a small steeple, 
beloriijs to the convent of Gray Nuns ; further back is 
the RecoUet church ; then the French Parish church, 
near which is seen the Great Cathedral. The Eng- 
lish Episcopal church has a tall pyramidal spire ; and 
that which rises farther to the right, and near the shore, 
is the church of Bon-secours. From some places 
may be seen the top of Nelson's monument, with se- 
veral other remarkable objects, particularly the bar- 
racks, on the right, behind the remnant of the old city 
wall. 

MONTREAL. 

hns. Masonic Hall,* at the north end of the city, 
with a piazza over the bank : Goodenough's, St. 
Paul's-street ; Mansion house, do. by Martinant. Also 
Jiamp's hotel. These are all large houses, and por- 
ers will be found on the shore belong:ing to each, who 
.vill convey the luggage, and show the way. 
l, The landing place is unpleasant, and the stranger 
nay be struck with the narrowness of the streets, the 
owness and heavy aspect of the houses, which are of 
I -tone or plastered to resemble it : but all this is in 
j conformity with the tashion of the country ; and Mon- 
;real contains many fine buildings and other objects 
-vorthy of notice, together with a vicinity which in 
he warm season of the year is truly delightful. 

Those who remain but a short time in this city, 
aay easily pay a hasty visit to the principal objects of 

ij ' ' Tlic Masonic Hall is the most expensive hotel in Montreal. It is 
( ept l)y Mr. Riasco, an Italian, and has a restauratit in the French fa- 
Sl 1 lion, wJiere the stranger may select his dinner from a lonj; bill of fare. 
■., I 'lie hifjliest rate of board, including private parlour, &c. is 11. 5s. pei 
! ly- The main, building is 4 !5torics high, and the two wings 3. 



< uriosity ; and are recommended to vMm a walK 
through the two principal streets, and to notice the 
following buildings and places. 

At the north end of St. Paul's-street are the Bar- 
racks. Above these are the Hospital and Public 
Baths. Just above the Masonic Hall, is the French 
church of Bon-secours, which, like the other Canadian 
religious buildings generally, is formed much on the 
plan of those in France. The roofs are, however, 
generally covered with tin, which is not much used in 
other countries. This is near the northern limit of 
Montreal, beyond which begins the Qpebec suburb. 

Masonic Hall, on the eastern side of the street. 

Theatre, adjoining the Masonic Hall. 

Market Place'^ and JVelsoyi's Monument. Then fol- 
lows a double row of shops. On the east side are 
several, which show articles of Indian manufacture 
for sale. These, however, had better be bought at the 
nunneries, if it is intended to visit them. 

Tlie Black Nuns' Garden, Convent, and Chapel, are 
on the west side of the street. The wall is very high. 
The porter at the gate will give admission and direc- 
tions, but in French. Visiters are expected to pur- 
chase a few articles of nuns' or Indian manufacture. 
It is most agreeable to go in parties. 

The New Cathedral and Old Parish Church ai*e 
close by : a short street leads to them, west. 

TiiE New Cathedral 

is probabl}^ the largest church in North America, un- 
less exceptions are to be made in favor of Mexico. Thij: 
edifice is at present partly concealed by the old Ca- 
thedral, which is to be removed on its completion, to 
leave the front open to a large square : the Place 
d'Armes. It was commenced in 1825, and the walls 
raised and the roof partly finished at the close c ' 

1 r.?ri' jv.arlvOf h to be bni'* Inst^a't of thr oT''. 



iti^l. Mr. O^Donnell, the architect employed in su- 
perintending the work, ^ave the plan, which is partly 
:opied from some of the European models of the 13th, 
I4th, and 15th centuries, Jt is of the plainest style 
:hat can bear the name of Gothic : any exuberance of 
:)rnament being inconsistent with a climate so severe as 
.hat of Canada. 

It is 255 feet lonp: from Avest to east, and 134 feet 
iivide. It was designed to have six quadrangular 
:owers, each 200 feet high : 3 on each flank, and 2 at 
3ach end. The curtain, or space between the front 
iowers is 73 feet by 119, and has parapets. There 
lire 5 public entrances and 3 private to the first floor, 
md 4 to the galleries. The building can contain 
10,000 persons, which number may assemble and dis- 
perse in a few minutes. The eastern window over 
.he high altar is 32 by 64 feet, and is to be divided by 
ihafts and muUions for stained glass. The groins of 
:he ceiling are painted in fresco. The ceiling will be 
30 feet high, groined and partly supported by a double 
ange of grouped columns, intersected by rails. The 
:ircuit of the edifice is 1125 feet. 

There are to be 7 altars. The floor rises gradually 
From the entrance to the high altar. The house is to 
3e warmed by heated air from stoves under the floor. 
The exterior is faced with hewn stone, from the moun- 
tain. A promenade 75 feet by 25, elevated more than 
100 feet between the towns will command a noble 
view. It is now roofed, and nearly completed. 

Goodenough's Hotel is on the west side, in a court 
yard. — Further on, a street on the opposite side brings 
you in sight of the 

Gray A?<ws' Convent^ a large stone building, partly 
new, about 410 feet in length. 

Mansion House Hotel, St. Paul's-slreet, below an 
open square. 

(The Canal to Lachine begins on the river shore, 
nearly against here. 

The Seminary (La Seminaire de St. Sulpice,) is an 



tO'i MOiSViiEAL, 

antique building, and contains a Catholic library ot 
about 6000 volumes ; but access to it is not very easily 
obtained. The College in this city was built by 
money supplied from the tunds of this institution. 
The Priests are the Seigneurs of the whole island of 
Montreal. 

The College is a large building of stone, three sto- 
ries hig:h, erected in 1819 out of the funds of the 
"Seminary." It has a front of about 150 feet, with 
■wings projecting in front and rear, which make the 
whole length about 220 feet. In order to guard 
against fire, there is scarcely any v\ood used in the 
construction ; and large iron doors are hung in the 
passages in such a manner that, by shutting them, the 
whole building may be divided into three parts, each 
fire-proof. 

It contains about 300 students, who are divided into 
8 classes, to each of which is devoted a year, with the 
exception of the two last, which occupy but 6 months 
apiece ; so thai the whole course of instruction is finished 
in 7 years. Many of the pupils, however, leave the 
institution before completing the course. 

The Chapel is in the south wing ; and the rest of 
the building; is divided into recitation rooms, and bed 
rooms, the former of which are hung with maps and 
religious pictures, and the latter supplied with crosses 
and fonts. Every thing is very plain in the furniture. 
The price of instruction is about eighty dollars per 
year, and some of the pupils have allowances made 
them ; particularly those designed for the Church, 
who assist in instruction by day, and study by night. 
There is a preparatory School connected with the 
College. One of the instructers always oversees the 
boys in their recreations. 

Returning to the square, and entering another prin- 
cipal street running parallel to St. Paul's, you pass 
numerous respectable and some elegant dwellings, 
leaving the Parish Church and the new Cathedral on 
the eapt= 



MOiXTKEAL. ^20S 

' IHae Wesley an Chapel The American Congrega- 
tional, and the English Episcopal Churches are passed 
on this side of the town. 

The Court House is large, but old ; and in the resr 
of it is 

The Parade, a handsome piece of g;r()und, with a 
walk, where the troops are drilled every morniig, 
generally at 10 o'clock. There is commonly bu: a 
small number of soldiers in the city, during peace ; 
and a regiment garrisons Montreal and the other posts 
in the neighbourhood towards the United States. 

The Society of Natural History have an interesting 
collection of animals, minerals, plants, &:c. principally 
collected in the provinces. 

A House of Industry has been recently established. 

The British and Canadian School Society established 
schools on the British system in Montreal, in Sept. 
1822. In Sept. 1825, there had been admitted 1706 
boys, and 444 girls, most of whom were of the poorer 
class. It is supported by voluntary subscriptions. 
Nine hundred pounds, the remainder of ♦ large sum 
collected in England for the instruction of Indians not 
otherwise instructed, is in the hands of this society, to 
be hereafter devoted to that object. 

There is a Lancasterian School of several hundred 
scholars, where some of the most influential Canadians, 
Catho'ics, having become aware of the value of educa- 
tion, have placed themselves on the committee. There 
is an Episcopal School on Bell's system. 

The priests in Canada have begun to educate in self 
defence. The schools provided tor by government, 
are restricted to masters of the English Church ; and 
a considerable number of school-houses have been 
erected, hut almost confined t') the townships 

Schools, <^c. in Lower Canada. — According to a re- 
port made in the House of Assembly of the Province 
in 1829, there were, in Montreal, Quebec, and Three 
Kivers, 3 schools of royal institution, 2 collea:es, 6 con- 



204 MONTREAL. 

vents, 11 gratuitous schools, (containing 1214 pupils,) 
.and 50 other schools. 

In the country, there were 70 schools of royal insti- 
ition, 4 colleges, and 14 mission schools. 

Island of St. Helen, or Grant's Island. 

'his has recently been purchased by the British 
goTernment, for a military position and depot. It is 
prijcipaily covered with trees ; but has a beautiful 
garden behind the quarters of the officers ; and a fine 
road winding round from the landing place, on the 
souji end, (where are some remains of old works, and 
a new battery,) to a rocky eminence over ihe arsenal, 
which is opposite the northern quarter of the town. 
This rock is about 11 feet higher than the most ele- 
vated parts of the city ; and the view from it is hand- 
some, with a wild ravine just below. 

The arsenal and storehouses form three buildings, 
with a narrow yard between them, about 125 feet in 
length. The batteries range on the river and town, 
and are furnished with neat barracks, a magazine, &c, 

The Mountain of Montreal, 

the summit of which is to be the site of an impregna- 
ble Citadel, offers an extensive and delightful view, 
and should by no means be forgotten by those who 
have an opportunity to undertake the excursion. It 
is better calculated to aiford an idea of the country, 
as well as to delight the eye, than any other excursion 
which can be made. Yet it is recommended, if the 
traveller stays long enough, to take a ride or two in 
different directions, after having visited this favourite 
spot. Capt. Partridge states its elevation at 676 feet 
above tide water. 

There are three ways of reaching the summit of the 
mountain : on foot, by an intricate route from the 
f^outhern part of the ritv : on hornphark. or in a rnr- 



MONTREAL. 205 

Mage, to the rido:e ; or round the north end to the rear. 
There is also a footpath up the north end. A private 
road turns off from the southern road on the ridge, 
passing through a gate. 

Heretofore the only jcood point of view has been 
from a rock above M'Tavish's house, whence a very 
steep path le^ds directly down. 
! The country spread out to view on arriving at this 
■commanding height, is a plain of such vast extent as 
to appear in many direction- quite boundless. In fact, 
it stretches much fri rther than would be imagined ; for 
jail the way to Quebec the river's banks present the 
isame appearance. 

The spectator faces the east. The side of the moun- 
tain, almost precipitous, is thickly covered with trees, 
which soon give place below to a smooth descent, de- 
clining to the base, chietly devoted to pasturage, on 
the elevation ot' which stands M'Tavish's house. A 
I beautiful display of cult vated fields succeeds on the 
'level, divided by higrh palings, and scattered with a 
[Few houses. Below a moderate descent, which ap- 
[ pears like an old bank of the river, gardens and d well- 
lings begin to increase ; and behind a succeeding one, 
3f a similar description, are suburbs. 

£as^, on the horizon, is Boucherville IViountain ; and 
3ver it is seen, more indistinctly, Belceil Mountain. 
The plain country between the Sorel and St. Law- 
rence is divided into innumerable fields, with sc;)tter- 
ing houses. In the same dire< tion is seen St. Helen's, 
Dr Grant's Island ; and in a direction with the south 
end of it, the steeple of Bon-secour church. North 
of this are the Quebec suburbs, beginning near the 
barracks ; the Waterworks, and Baths. Nearer, are 
^een St. Louis and vSt. Lawrence suburbs. 

S. S. East, on the opposite shore, La Prairie ; and 
nearly over it, the site of St. John's, which is not dis- 
tinguishable. In a range with them, is Nuns' Island, 
and Nuns' Farm, the latter on this shore The rivev 
S 2 



206 KOUTE IN CAxSADA. 

is 3i miles wide. The suburbs on the south side ot 
the city, are St. Antoine, Ricolet, St. Anne's, and St. 
Joseph's. Distant Mountains. 

A^orth. Bout de I'lsle, the extremity of Montreal 
Island, Pointe aux Trembles, and the village of Bou- 
cherville ; opposite which is Longueil, and further 
down, Varennes, with a two-steepled church. 

JV. East, the view is boundless, with a succession of 
cultivated fields, which in the distance become quite 
undistinguishable. The same appearance, it will 
hereafter be seen, extends along the river's banks 
quite to Quebec. 

Road round the Mountain. — The road near the 
north end of the mountain is ornamented with many 
beautiful seats, and there are also some extensive 
manufactories. Behind it is a fine extent of culti- 
vated ground. 

Other Excursions. 

To Lachi?ie, 9 miles, or 3 leagues. The river road 
pleasantest : giving a view of the Rapids, Nuns' and 
Heron Islands, the Indian village of Caughnawaga op- 
posite, and crossing the Lachine Canal. At Lachihe 
is a small house kept by an American. Crystals of 
axenite (carb. lime) were found in excavating the 
canal. The pebbles aloug the shore are the frag- 
ments of granite, while the black, or deep purple rocks 
which form the channel are limestone, lying in strata 
nearly horizontal. 

To Poinie aux Trembles and Bout de Vlsle. 

The southern road to the Mountain, which crosses it 
at the less elevated part of the ridge, near the middle, 
leads through St. Joseph's suburbs, and afterward 
passes a number of fine country seats. The most re- 
markable are those of Mr. M'Gillivray, and the late 
Mr. Gregory, members of the old North- West Com- 
pany, which has lately been converted into the Hud- 
son's Bay Company. Tt ensrossed the Tndian frad<^ 



i'or a vast distance up the lakes, and enriched many- 
individuals, whose residences add materially to the 
ippearance of the city and its environs. 

The Priests'' Farm is passed on the left, near the 
base of the mountain, and is a large tract of land, with 
in old building in the ancient European style, pre- 
serving many of the features of feudal days, with its 
projecting square towers, small windows, pointed 
'roots, and weather-beaten walls. The barns con- 
nected with it are very spacious, and seem capable 
;of containing a large part of the products of the farm. 
The only wonder seems to be what a few old men can 
iio with such vast stores, as well as with their receipts 
Tom various other quarters. 

The whole island of Montreal is a Seigneurie, in 
^hich the monks of Ricolet, as Seigneurs, have the 
■ight of a tax on every farm, on every purchase and 
sale of real estate, and many other privileges, vested 
\in them by the king of France on the first settlement 
I of the place. Circumstances have conspired to reduce 
land destroy many of these privileges, so that the an- 
nual income of the priests, from this rich and valuable 
[Seigneurie, though large, is very trivial, in comparison 
with its extent and fertility. 

Col. Allen, with his detachment for the surprise of 
Montreal, in 1776, crossed the river from Longueil ; 
but Major Brown, not being able to land above the 
city as was intended, the former was taken prisoner 
by Gov. Carleton, after a sharp engagement, loaded 
with irons, and sent lo England. Col. Warner after- 
ward erected batteries on the shore at Longueil, by 
which he drove back the governor when he attempted 
to land on his way to relieve St. John's. 

The population of Montreal, by a census taken in 
1825, was nearly 24,000 ,; and 4 or 500 greater than 
that of Quebec- 



508 ROUTE IN CANADA. 



THE RIDEAU CANAL. 



This work, which is in progress at the expense of 
Great Britain, is to effect a navigable communication 
between Lake Ontario and the Ottawa river. While 
a line of frontier fortresses is to be constructed, in- 
cluding those at Quebec and Montreal, at an estimated 
expense of 798,000/., an interior line of navigation is 
to be formed, of which this is a part, at the supposed 
cost of 527,000/. The object of it is to secure, in time 
of war, the transportation of military stores, ^c. by an 
interior route, le>s exposed to the United States, and 
practicable in lake vessels of 125 tons. It is a great 
undertaking, and when completed, which it will proba- 
bly be in a few years, will afford a most interesting 
episode to the travellers' tour. It will present a com- 
bination of fine natural objects and noble structures of 
art. Those who have leisure, will be pleased with a 
view of some of the works in their unfinished state. 
Others may perhaps read with gratification a brief 
description of some of the principal objects on the 
route. Stage coaches run to By town in connexion 
wilh steari! boats. 

At Merrick's Snie, are to be 3 locks of 8 feet lift ; 
and a dam, 7 feet high and 180 long, at the head of it, 
to lift the Rideau river into the Snie. Considerable 
excavations of earth and rock in the Snie. 

At Edmund's Rapids, a dam 8 feet high, and 400 

long ; and a lock of 6 feet lit\. The excavalions, both 

A earth and rock, are considerable. Near Philip's, at 

the same rapids, is another dam, 8 feet high and 250 

long ; and a lock of 6 feet lift. 

At the Old Slys, on the Rapids of Smith's Fall, is 
a dam 18 feet high and 210 long ; and two locks of 8 
feet lift. 

At the First Rapids is a dam 9 feet in height an4 
250 in length, with a lock of 7 feet lift. There is 
also an embankment of wood and clay, 2 miles lons:^ 



THE OTTAWA KIVEB. 209 



At Cfaaffey's Mills is a dam 30 feet high and 80 wide, 
vvith two locks of 9 feet lift. 

\t Nicholson's Rapids is a dam 16 feet high and 240 
ong: ; a lock of 10 feet lift, and an embankment 8 feet 
,iii8;h and 280 in length, &c. &c. 

The stone was found convenient on the ground, and 
,ilso lime, wood, and stone. 

1 The Rideau Canal will open to a navigable con- 
.lexion a vast extent of country, and if extended be- 
yond the Rideau Lake,* would lead to the shores of 
akes and rivers, as yet imperfectly known, as indeed 
j re those through which the canal already lies. The 
load from Kingston to Montreal crosses the Rideau 
!^anal at Tuttle's hill, and a new village called Ever- 
•:reen. 

. Boats go from Montreal up the Grand River to the 
nouth of the Rideau, and the commencement of the 
;anal, by the La Chinp and GrenvilJe canals. A pas- 
. age may now be easily obtained in steamboats. The 
I'Villiam Kingy a boat built on the Annesley plan, began 
in 1839 to run between Hawkesbury, Grenville, and 
[iull, in connexion with a line. 

Bytown is situated at the junction of the Rideau and 
Dttawa ; it is 120 miles from Montreal, and 150 from 



* Xearly west from tlie city of Montreal, distant about 20 miles, tlm 
Mtatva river from the west fails into one of tlic baysof tlieSt. Lawrence, 
['he Ottawa is itself a large and navigable stream, rising in the recesses 
)f tlie Chippewa country, live or six hundred miles north-west from the 
sland and city of Montreal ; flowing north-ea*t until within about 120 
niles above its mouth, receivps Rideau, and assuming a nearly easterly 
lirecrion, communicates with the St. Laurence, as already stated. 

Tlie Rideau is a small, but an impottant river, rising in Leeds county, 
owrisliip of Kitley, Lower Canada, within 30 miles of the St. Lawrence, 
n the lower end of the Thousand Islands. At its s^ource the Rideau is 
A slu<;;gish stream, and in no part of its course much impeded by falls ; 
its entire length, however, is not above 60 miles ; course north-east nearly. 

Near the head of the Rideau, and on the .^ame table land, extends lake 
Gannonoqui, discharging its waters into the St. Lawrence, 20 miles below 
Kingston, and the botiom of lake Ontario. The entire distance from 
Sie month of tfie Ottawas to that of tlie Gannonoqui, by the route of tlie 
intended canal, is nearly 190 miles, and by the St. Lawrence 160. The 
';anal route, therefoip. ('Yrr.o,|.7riTit nf tlm *=t T.^iw-vfripp. nsin fnl6 — O; 



^210 KOUTE IX CANADA. 

Kingston, and is expected to become an important 
place from its situation. The Rideau received its , 
French name from the beautiful cascade, like a white i 
curtain^ with which it descends 27 feet, into the 
Ottawa. North of the town the Ottawa is about a 
mile in breadth. It has a fall of 32 feet, and is diver- 
sified with numerous islands. Below the fall the water 
is very deep ; and the Rideau Canal here descends to i 
it down a narrow cleft in a precipitous bank by eight ^i 
Jocks of fine stone work, ten feet lift. The canal, on i 
gaining the eminence, passes through the village, and 
opens upon a large beaver meadow of 250 acres, ) 
which receives a branch canal from Lake Chaudiere 
on the Ottawa, and will form a large basin for timber. 
A little south of the town is a mountainous ridge, 
through which the canal passes by a natural notch, j 
The western part of the village is situated on high 
and commanding ground ; and an hospital and military 
barracks have been erected on the Cape, at an eleva- 
tion of 200 feet above the river. This is capable of 
being rendered impregnable, and has attracted the 
attention of English engineers. 

Co66'5 Cave is an extensive cavern, discovered in 
1828 by a lady. 

Bytown was a wilderness in 1826 ; and in 1827 con- 
tained 2000 inhabitants, with a market, school-house, 
and four churches built and building. It is likely to 
become a place of screat trade, even in furs ; and there 
are mines of iron, lead, and tin, and quarries of marble 
in the vicinity. 

The Great Ottawa Bridge.' — This is an immense 
structure, of bold design and admirable worknanship. 
The first two arches on the Lower Canada side, are 
each sixty feet span, and of store, extending over the 
two channels on that side of the Kettle. Then follows 
a piece of wooden bridge, rising on trestles, which 
brings the traveller to an island, beyond which is a 
rapid and tumultuous current, called the Chaudiere 
Or^at Kettle. Over thi<5 an attempt was made, which 



TUE ST. LAWUEACJi;. i^I T 

.vas repeated in 1828 with success, to throw a mag- 
fnficent arch, of 220 feet span. Two arches cross the 
J mailer channels on the other side. 
i From the bridge a tine road had been opened in the 
jipper province to the village. A wooden bridge on 
ihis road, 114 feet span, crosses a gulley. 
: Hull is opposite Bytown, connected with it by the 
treat Ottawa L>ridge. This township belongs to 
Philemon Wright, Esq. an American farmer of great 
iffluence and experience. His settlement, called 
'iVrightstowu, is seen from Bytown, being situated at 
jfae Falls. 
ii 

Route from Montreal to Niagara. 
(For this route see pages 104 to 109.) 

j ROUTE FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 
Road to Quebec. 

Notwithstanding the common prejudices against 
[ravelling by land in Canada, which are entertained 
|iy many persons not acquainted with the country, it 
5 recommended to those who may find it convenient, 
a make arrangements for performing a part of the 
'ourney in this manner, eithei- going or returning. 

The country is mdeed a dead level, but it is entirely 
educed to cultivation, thickly populated, and blessed 
vith good roads. The way lies along the very margin 
)f the St. Lawrence, passing an almost uninterrupted 
uccession of dwellings, and supplied with many com- 
oriable and some good inns, which will be particu- 
arly mentioned. 

As the strength of the current makes the passage of 
he steamboats up the river about 12 hours longer than 
hat down, it would on this account be better to return 
jj land ; and this course would certainly be recom- 
nended, but for the greater difficulty of obtaining good 
:arriages in (Quebec. It is to be hoped that regulai^ 



'li'i KOLTI: TO UUJJBEU. 

coaches will eie long be established to run betweeii 
the two cities ; for, at present, it is necessary to hire 
a caleche, or a stage coach, at a pretty high price. 
At Three Rivers (Trois Rivieres), 60 miles, the tra- 
veller may dismiss his carriage, and enter the steam- 
boats, which regularly stop there up and down. 



Steamboat to Quebec 



Leaving Montreal in the steamboat, you pass under 
the fort on St. Helen's Island, the steeples and cupolas ' 
of the city being seen nearly in the following order be- 
ginning at the south end ; Gray Nuns', Ricolet Church. 
Black Nuns', New and Old Cathedrals, Episcopal 
Church, Nelson's Monument, Bon-secour Church. 
Near the last, on the shore, is the Masonic Hotel, then 
the Barracks, Waterworks, and Baths, the beginning* 
of the Quebec suburbs, the residences of Judge Reed 
and Mr. Malson, with terraced gardens towards the 
river, &c. A little below is Malson's Brewery, and 
the late Sir John Johnson's residence, (a grandson of 
Sir William Johnson, for whom seepage 57.) The 
house is of brick, with a piazza. 

The Rapids of St. Mary are between the island and 
these last-mentioned objects, and run with such rapidity 
that steamboats are sometimes obliged to be drawn up 
by cattle a little distance. 

Longueil, just below St. Helen's. 

Longue Pointe, 6 miles (2 leagues) from Montreal. 

Vercheres, on the east side. 

Varennes has a church with double spire. 

Pointe aux Trembles, 9 miles, (3 leagues.) Here is 
a nunnery, in which is a pretty large school for girls. 
There are two good inns in the place. 

Bout de risk. Here is no village, but only a ferry. 

Contrecosur, on the east. 

Repentigny, a pretty village. 

At this place it is recommended to the traveller by 
!aj>d. to make a deviation from the direct road along: 




DSThroori -*''■• 



Ti{Ai>E Oi- TILE. ST. LAWKEKCi:. :iK> 

he river, if he finds it convenient, to see the delightful 
country between it and the town of Assomption. There 
s a beautiful road on each bank, varied with houses 
md trees. Return so as to strike the road near St, 
>ulpice. 

St. Sulpice, 24 miles (8 leagues) from Montreal. 

La Moraye. 

Bertkier. Here is an excellent inn, kept by a man 
rom the United States, whose wife is a Canadian. 

Machiche is a pretty town, at the mouth of the 
liviere du Loup, and has a very neat and comfortable 
nn, of the best Canadian stamp, and famous for many 
ailes round. Many French customs are still preserved 
»y the unmixed inhabitants of the St- Lawrence, some 
I which are agreeable and interesting. At many of 
he inns, the traveller vvill receive the most kind and 
lospitable attentions, and will find great gratification 
1 observing the handsome flower-gardens, as well as 
he neat arrangement of the furniture. At this house 
5 a handsome collection of green-house plants. 

There is very little variety to be discovered in the 
latural surface of the ground, but the journey through 
his region presents almost an unvarying scene of cul- 
ivation and fertility. For a great part of the distance, 
here is a narrow strip of corn or potatoes between the 
oad and the river's bank, to correspond with the fields 
vhich stretch off to such a distance on the other hand ; 
nd the variety of crops, and the occasional rows and 
lumps of trees, remove, in a good degree, the natural 
ameness of the landscape. 

Navigation and Trade of the St. 
Lawrence, &c. 

Steamboats are of the utmost importance on this great 
iver, for they contribute extremely to the convenience 
«d expedition of travelling, and render most valuable 
:ssistance to commerce. There are many steamboats 
^mstantly employed betweeu Montreal and Quebec, 



^^14 ROl/TE TO UUliJlEC. 

most of them fitted to accommodate passe tigers, a; 
well as to carry freight, and all provided with power- 
ful engines. In 1828 a passage was made from Que- 
bec to Montreal, in a steamboat, in 20 hours and 40 jj 
minutes — the shortest ever known. The principal | 
article of export from Canada ie lumber, a great dtali 
of which is carried to Quebec in immense rafts, and 
then shipped for England. These rafts have usually 
a great number of sails to hoist in a fair wind, with 
huts to shelter the men from the weather, so that they 
have a very sii)gular appearance, and at a little dis- 
tance look like a fleet of sail boats. The population 
of Lower Canada is estimated at about 200,000. 

The French Canadians, notwithstanding the common 
prejudices against them, appear, on acquaintance, to 
be an intelligent people. They certainly are amiable, 
cheerful, and gay, and their backwardness in improve- 
ments is attributable to the system under which they 
live. They are generally brought up in great igno- 
rance, and they are taught to dislike and avoid not 
only the Protestant principles, but Protestants them- 
selves. The author has the word of one of thein 
priests for stating, that not more than one-sixth of the 
population are ever taught to read or write. In New-j 
England, as is well known, the law provides for the 
instruction of every child, without exception : and 
every child is actually instructed. Books and news- 
papers, therefore, lose their effect as well as theii 
value among these people. The British government 
have encouraged schools here, but until lately, almo.*-* 
without success. Among those regions where Englisi 
and Scotch have settled, instruction is gaining ground 
and in Montreal, the public schools are rising in im 
portance : but it is to be feared that the Catholi' 
priests will long continue to oppose the extension o 
real knowledge, and that while they retain their in 
fluence, the character of the people will remain dt 
pressed. 

The " Procedure'^ ot Canada is founded on the edic; 



TOWN OF S'JEEL. 21 Of 

)t Louis 14th, of 1667, and is the basis of the Civil 
Jode. There were no lawyers before the conquest 
'n 1759, when they were created; and martial law 
Drevailed from that time till 1774. The trial byjury 
N-ds introduced in 1785 ; and the constitutional charter 
n 1791. 

There are many signs of prosperity exhibited by the 
farmers between Montreal and Three Rivers, in the 
extension or erection of buildings. On each farm is 
jsually to be seen about half an acre of Indian corn, 
vhich will furnish 18 or 20 bushels ; and it is the cus- 
lom not to build fences, the cattle being kept from the 
and, and fed on weeds until the crops are off. 
' The houses are generally of one story, and are built 
i)f wood or stone, according to the nature of the coun- 
iry. Some of them are formed of squared timbers, 
md even of round logs ; but the latter are usually em- 
ployed for the construction of barns only, which are 
l)ften covered with thatch. The houses and barns are 
I'requently composed of several small buildings, erected 
it different periods, according to the capacity or neces* 
ities of the proprietors. 

William Henry, or Sorel, 

i 45 7niles, or 15 leagues, from Montreal 

I This toAvn, though quite small, is one of the princi- 
|Dal places between the two capitals. It is on the 
1 50uth side of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of the 
Sorel, or Richelieu, in a very sandy situation; and 
:ontains nothing worthy of notice except a little old 
I :hurch, a palisadoed fort, and a neat little square, at 
I he distance of a short walk, surrounded with several 
laretty white houses, a church, &c. a little in the New- 
England style. The fences are generally low, and 
! iiford the sight of gardens. 

The flowers which abound in the Canadian gardens 
ire principally roses, carnations, sweet-williams, can- 



210 ROUTE TO QUEBEC. 

didus, monthly roses (blossoming only a part of the 
year). 

As the steamboats usually stop here half an hour or 
more, there is time enough to go on shore. The popu- 
lation principally consists of disbanded soldiers, so that 
the dwellings are generally poor, and most of the peo- 
ple speak some dialect of English. The garrison con- 
tains only 30 or 40 men in time of peace, and the com- 
manding officer has a pretty residence opposite the 
town, where the fields have a green and fertile ap- 
pearance. 

The Government House stands about three-quarters 
of a mile beyond the town. It is a large red building, 
with barracks near it. The boat turns round on leav- 
ing Sorel, and returns to the St. Lawrence, the distant 
land beginning to have some elevation. 

On the opposite point. Gen. Montgomery erected 
batteries on taking the place, in 1776, and prepared 
rafts and floating batteries, which maintained an en- 
gagement with the ships in which Gov. Carleton at- 
tempted to escape to Q,uebec, and drove him back 
towards Montreal. He afterward passed them in an 
open boat at night ; but his vessels fell into the hands 
of the Americans. 

Bertkier is on the opposite side of the St. Lawrence, 
but out of sight, being behind several low islands. 
Some of the steamboats stop there instead of at Sorel. 
There is a ferry across. 

Lake St. Peter. 

On entering this large tract of water, the shores at 
the opposite end appear like mere lines upon the hori- 
zon, the land being still so flat near the river as to 
seem hardly sufficient to prevent it from overflowing. 
A vessel at the opposite end appears like a mere 
-^peck, the length of the lake being 20 miles. 

Powte dn Jjor. or Woorllands, is seen on (he northern 



THREE KIVEKS. 217 

.shore, when nearly across ; but it is situated beyond 
the lake. A ridge of hi^h land continues on the north, 
: following; the course of the river. 

Opposite Woodlands is JVicolet, 9 miles from Three 
I Rivers. The place is large, and contains an English 
and a French church, together with a nunnery, and a 
college, founded by the Catholic bishop of Quebec. 

* Three Rivers, [Trois Rivieres,] Half way. 

This is the largest town between Montreal and Qjue- 
I bee, and is 96 miles from the former, and 84 from the 
latter. The streets are generally straight, and regu- 
larly built, though narrow ; and t?ite houses, although 
^'leat, are generally only one or two stories high, with 
windows in the roofs, and being principally plastered, 
iiiave rather a dark aspect, like those of Montreal. It 
[contains shops of various sorts, and several inns of a 
decent appearance. 

The Nunnery is in the east part of the town, and 
lias extensive grounds connected with it. 

The Chapel of the Convent has a number of pic- 
tures, of which the one on the right of the main altar 
is the best : Magdalen weeping. The Parish Church 
is in the south part of the town. Two large buildings, 
formerly the Court House and Jail, with the Nunnery, 
I are the principal objects. 

I While the American forces were on the retreat from 
Quebec, in 1775, Gen. Sullivan sent Gen. Thompson 
, down from Sorel to attack this place. He went down 
the right bank of Lake St. Peter, and landed 9 miles 
'from the town; but being discovered and misled, he 
(ound Gen. Frazer drawn up in order of battle, while 
Gen. Nesbit was sent to cut off his retreat ; and the 
battle, which immediately commenced, was short and 
! disastrous to the assailants, who lost their commander, 
and many officers and soldiers, as prisoners, although 
llhey had few killed. After several hours we ap- 
proarh 

T e 



2U' ROUTE TO QUEBEC . 

Le Bigmux, a village on the south side of tlie iiver. 
known by its double-spired church. It stands on a 
steep bank, about 60 feet high, and marks the com- 
mencement of the Richelieu rapids. 

The river here winds between broken banks, and 
the number of cottages is so great as to make the scene 
more animating. A few blue, but not lofty, mountains 
are seen down the river. 

Rapids of Richelieu. 

The river, which is about two miles wide, here 
runs with great velocity, particularly the first three 
miles ; but the wat-T is deep, and the surface unbro- 
ken, except near the shores, which are lined with in- 
numerable loose round stones and rocks, extremely 
dangerous to vessels when they get among them. 
These rocks seem placed with much regularity, form- 
ing two ranges, and making the water appear as if it 
had a gradual swell from both sides to the middle of 
the river. Although the navigation of this part of the 
St. Lawrence requires great skill and caution in other 
vessels, steamboats pass with security ; yet, on account 
of the force of the current at ebb tide, even they are 
obliged to vary their hours of leaving Quebec, in such 
a way as to have the flood through the rapids. Ves- 
sels are often seen waiting at the bottom of the rapids 
for a change of tide, or for a steamboat to tow them 
up. The rapids extend about nine miles. 

Si. Antoine, on the south bank, is 18 miles (6 leagues) 
from Quebec. The mountain seen towards the north- 
east is that of Lorette, and the bank on that side makes 
a beautiful slope to the river, agreeably varied by 
cultivated fields, interrupted by occasional patches of 
woodland : on the side of the ridge, about midway 
from the water to the top, passes the road. The south 
shore, on the contrary, continues high and abrupt, and 
nearly perpendicular, with innumerable cottasres peeiv 
insT over the bronv 



j WOLFE'S COVE. i\'J 

li 

r Poinie aux Trembles ^ 3. \i\hge on the north shore. 
•- The river is about the same breadth all along- Iiere, 
viz. about two miles, although it appears much nar- 
rower ; the depth is about five fathoms, and the tide 
irises 14 or 15 feet. Notwithstanding the thickness of 
the population on the shores, the country is a wilder- 
ness only about four miles back, being comprehended 
in what is called the King''s Hunting Ground, which ex- 
tends from Three Rivers, 40 or 50 miles below this place. 

Jacques Cartier, 30 miles from Quebec. This is a 
village on the north side, situated at the mouth of the 
i river of the same name, which is likewise distinguished 
by the name of the first explorer of the river St. Law- 
rence. Here are the remains of the first church built 
in Canada. 

1 Carouge Creek, on the north side. Here a pretty 
view opens, for a few minutes, into the interior, on the 
i north shore, showing the Indian village of Lorette, at 
I the distance of three or four miles, with an extent of 
; beautiful land, and a range of fine mountains in the 
i rear. 

I Chaudiere River is a little below, with a rock on 
the lower side, at its mouth. 

I Looking down the St. Lawrence, part of Point Levi 
I IS seen, covered with white buildings, one of which is 
the church. It is opposite Quebec, which remains for 
I a considerable distance invisible. The banks rise to 
I a greater and greater height, and present every variety 
of surface. 

Sillery Cove is a mile below, above which was 
fought the final battle between the English and French, 
in 1759, after the capture of Quebec by General Wolfe, 
which completed the conquest of Canada. At the 
village are the remains of the first church ever built 
in Canada. 

Wolfe's Cove is behind the next point. This is the 
place where Wolfe landed in the night, and up the 
precipitous bank he climbed with his troops, after- 
ward drawing up his cannon. Here Gen. Arnold 



J2U QLCliEC. 

afterward took up his troops, in 1755. There i> a re- 
markable rock projecting from the bank, at the head 
of the cove, a little to the right of which is seen a 
road running up the hill, at the place where the troops 
went up, when there was nothing but a footpath. 
The spot is about a quarter of a mile west of a large 
yellow house above the bank. 

Cape Diamond is the abrupt bluff in which termi- 
nates the high land on the north, and under the oppo- 
site side of which Quebec is situated. It is 348 feet 
high, and the fortified lines on its brow belong to the 
city walls, and the citadel, which is included by them. 
The telegraph is raised on the Cavaliers' Battery, and 
the round buildings on the ridge are Martello towers, 
which serve as advanced works to the fortress. The 
opposite point is Point Levi ; and the mountains of 
St. Anne and Tourmente appear many miles down the 
river. 

General Montgomery was killed just at the base of 
Cape Diamond, in attacking a blockhouse on the 
shore, in 1775. 

QUEBEC. 

The Lower Town of Quebec begins near this spot, 
and stretches along at the foot of the rock, while the 
Upper Town soon begins to open to view above, 
though the principal part of it is on the top and the 
opposite side. 

The harbour requires a pier for its protection, on 
account of the extreme rapidity of the currents caused 
by the tide, and particularly the ice. The subject 
has been recommended to the government. 

The Castle of St. Louis, or the Governor's House, 
overhangs the precipice, being built on supporters ; 
and makes a conspicuous appearance, interrupting the 
city wall, which encloses the Upper Town. 

The new Monument to Wolfe and Montcalm is also 
visible from some points on the river. 



But (lie current is too swift to allow much time for 
■ jbsertation before arriving at the wharf, where the 
traveller will find servants in waiting from the prin- 
cipal public houses in the city : these are all in the 
Upper Town, the ascent to which is intricate as well 
as steep and laborious, so that the stranger will want 
their assistance as guides. 

1 Inns. Union Hotel, Mr. Lemoine's Boarding House, 
Malhiot's.41 St. John's-street, La Fontaine's, opposite. 

A book called the " Picture of Quebec" is recom- 
mended to the traveller. 

j The Lower Town is crowded and dirty, and con- 
tains no decent public houses. After three or four 
turns, you begin to ascend Mountain-street, which is 
very steep and laborious, and leads to a gate in the 
city wall, which is very massive, built in the old Eu- 
ropean style, of solid stone, very thick, with narrow 
passage ways for carriages and footmen, and a guard 
;chamber above, with loop-holes for musketeers. On 
the right, after passing this gate, is a battery of heavy 
I guns ; and the road in that direction, by the city wall, 
conducts to within a few steps of Mr. Lemoine's. On 
the contrary, to go to the other houses mentioned, it is 
necessary to follow the street which opens a little to 
'the left, and leads into the midst of the city. 
' A walk to the Esplanade, in the highest part of the 
I city, by the wall, is very delightful at morning oreve- 
Ining, as it commands a fine view ; but Cape Diamond 
i the finest of all. 

It is recommended to the stranger to seize the first 
, pleasant days to make excursions to the Falls of Mont- 
morency, the village of Lorette, &c. which will be 
jmore particularly spoken of hereafter; and it will be 
i found much better, on several accounts, to set out as 
1 early in the morning as possible. 
! The walls of Quebec enclose the upper part of the 
hill, and a little of its declivity on the north side ; but 
I the space is so small that the buildings are extremely 
♦-crowded tos-ether, and the streets are as closely built. 



.222 <4U£BEC. , • 

as in the largest cities. V^eiy few of the private 
houses present any thing- remarkable, but there are 
many public buildings worthy of particular attention. 
Population, in 1825, about 22,000. A traveller, in 
1828, arrived here from N. York (684 miles) in 75 
hours, by regular route. 

The French Parish Church stands on one side of the 
public square, facing the barracks, where is also the 
seminary. The church contains little that is re- 
markable, the whole interior appearing rather ordi- 
nary, and the pictures having little to boast of: the 
principal of them are a Holy Family, an Ascension, 
Crucifixion, Descent of Tongues, and Last Supper. 

The College, which stands a little to the right in 
coming out of the church, is a large stone building in 
which a considerable number of youth are educated 
by priests, and may be distinguished in the city by 
wearing the long black gown, sash, and cornered cap, 
common to such institutions in Catholic countries. 

The Chapel of the Seminary, which stands a little 
left from the principal gate, contains the best collec- 
tion of pictures, it is said, in all Canada : beginning 
on the right-hand near the door, is a picture of the 
Virgin Mary attended by angels, &,c. ; in the first 
chapel on that side is a picture of the Crucifixion, over 
the altar ; on the right, the Baptism of the Ethiopian, 
John's Baptism, St. John ; on the left, a portrait, St. 
Peter receiving the keys, infant Saviour, Devotees, 
&c. on the church wall, next is a good picture un- 
known, then the Ascension, and Interment of the Sa- 
viour ; and over the high altar, a Holy Family, and 
Dove descending ; what appears to be some priest's 
dream ; on the left side, is the Descent of Tongues, 
and an Angel visiting a saint in prison, good ; over 
the altar in the remaining chapel, is the Baptism in 
the Wilderness, with a number of poor pictures ; and 
in the church- are an Evangelist, Wise Men presenting 
gifts, kc. 

In two gilt boxes, one on each side of the high altar. 



CASTLE OK ST. LOtlJ;. 2!S?0 

;ire two skulls, with several human bones, placed 
against red silk, which are regarded with supersti- 
tious reverence, as holy and perhaps miraculous relics ; 
a lamp is kept constantly burning under that on the 
I left-hand. 

The Barracks are in a large stone building opposite 
, the church, which was formerly the Jesuits' College : 
I it is three and four stories high, forming an angle like 
an L, each side of which is about 200 feet long. 
Here are quartered the troops which garrison the city ; 
, they have heretofore consisted of two regiments of 
I infantry, two companies of artillery, and one of sap- 
' pers and miners. The Exchange^ a new edifice, will 
^ also contain a Reading Room. 

' Convents. There are two convents in Quebec ; one 
] of them has about 40 Ursulines^ who have a large 
, convent and church near the prison, in the west part 
I of the city, and keep a large school for girls. The 
I other convent is lower down, and contains an hospital 
j for diseases of the lighter kinds ; while the most se- 
rious and severe are treated at the nunnery near the 
St. Charles's River, about 1^ miles above the town. 
These institutions, however, are not now open to vi- 
siters as they formerly were ; at least it is generally 
impossible to gain access to them. 

The Hotel Dieu is an hospital, under the care of 
Nuns ; and the Emigration Hospital affords relief to 
sick strangers. 
Tiie Arsenal is near the palace gate, and contains 
' about 100,000 stand of arms, arranged with great re- 
gularity. 

,' The Castle of St. Louis is a large building, but makes 
I a less imposing appearance than v;hen seen from the 
water. The street beyond commands a fine view ; 
and there are several beautiful terraced gardens formed 
I on the steep side of the rock, almost overhanging^ the 
1 buildings in the lower town. 

j The fortifications of the city on the land side are 
j strong, and worthy of particular attention ; as before 



221 uLi-iij^c. 

remarked, they may be examined wiih mitiebi ujr 
taking a walk in that direction, in the morning or 
evening-. 

St. Louis's Gate is the highest city gate, and the 
street of the same name conducts to it ; this leads to 
the famous Plains of Abraham. The monuments toL 
Wolfe and Montcalm will be erected in the Upper 
Garden. 

The Esplanade Battery lies between St. Louis and 
8t. John's gates, and contains 12 cannon and 4 mor- 
tars, with magazines built where they could not be 
injured by an enemy's shot. The ground slopes in 
such a manner as to expose a large extent of country 
lo view : the fine fertile plain beyond St. Charles's 
River, the beautiful ridge of lands beyond, with the 
villages of Lorette, Charlebourg and others ; the St. 
Lawrence on the right, with Point Levi, the Isle of 
Orleans, and the fine ranges of distant mountains. The 
mouth of the Montmorency can easily be discerned, 
on the left bank of the St. Lawrence, about 9 miles 
from the city ; that is the spot where the falls are to 
be seen, and the battle ground where Gen. Wolfe 
made an unsuccessful attack on the French Gen. Dies- 
kau, before the capture of the city. 

Mounting- to the parapet near the gate of St. Louis, 
the plan ot the defences may be in part discerned, 
even by an unpractised eye ; and by descending and 
passing through the gate, the strength of the place will 
be better understood. The walls of the city, the 
bastions, and other works, are from 20 to 30 ^et in 
height, and formed of stone. The path is made to 
turn several abrupt angles, in order to expose the ap- 
proach to raking fires. In coming towards the gate 
t'rom the country, at the first angle, the stranger is 
brought to face 8 cannon, placed in two rows, at the 
second angle 2, and at the third 2 ; at the fourth he 
sees 3 on the right and 3 on the left ; and at the fifth 
finds himself in front of the gate, which has a gun ou 
its top. The gate is of very heavy and durable ma- 



THE CITAUEX,. 223 

iioury, and ihe passage through it is a darJs; arched way, 
ibout 55 feet long"; it is closed by two heavy doors, 
with wickets so placed as not to face each other. 
] Near the Hospital is part of the old French wall, 
iibout 50 feet high, which contains gentlemen's gar- 
dens, 

1 The Citadel, 

on Cape Diamond, is designed for a place of impreg- 
riable strength. It has been gradually progressing for 
ji number of years, and is not expected to be soon 
bompleted. Admission may be usually obtained by 
ipplicalion to the proper officers, and necessary in- 
brmation may be gained at the hotels. The British 
government intended to devote 5000/. per annum on 
hese works ; but as the money is sometimes delayed, 
hey are occasionally exposed to some interruptions. 
In 1827 about 78,000/. were still thought necessary to 
•ender the citadel defensible. 

Most of the works are new, though some parts 
^f the old have been made to serve. They include 
ive or six acres, on the very summit of Cape Diamond, 
md extend to the verge of the precipice, 348 feet 
ibove the St. Lawrence. There are to be four bas- 
ions and one demi-bastion, a ravelin, in advance of the 
vvestern bastion, and other out-works. The walls are 
ibout 40 t'eet high, and built perpendicularly, of fine 
tiewn stone ; the ditch being blasted out of the solid 
"ock, and about 50 feet wide. After making two an- 
gles on the west of the gate, the new walls join the 
Did. 

The Casemates. Entering the gates and passing 
jehind the wall, a continued line of large rooms is 
discovered following the wall, built of substantial 
Drick work, and arched over head with such strength 
iS to be bomb-proof. These rooms, which are known 
by the technical name of Casemates, are about 50 
«et lonsf. 20 wide, and 16 or 18 high, each to be 



2it) ULEJJEC. 

lighted by a door and two small windows, looking in- 
ward, and pierced at the other side, with jfive loop 
holes each, for musketry. These loop holes are on 
the new plan, narrow inside, and opening with steps 
faced with iron, to prevent musket shot from glancing 
in. There are to be about 40 casemates : these are all 
towards the land side, the natural defence of the pre- 
cipice over the water being sufficiently strong to pre- 
vent the attempts of an enemy in that direction. The 
casemates will communicate with each other by fold- 
ing doors, which may be thrown open the whole 
length of the bomb-proofs, and will then furnish space 
for the whole garrison (from 3000 to 5000 men)" to 
parade at once. 

The Subterranean Passage leads from a little stair- 
case in the bastion next east of tho gate, under the 
ditch, to a small out-work with two or three casemated 
rooms. The stairs are so narrow as to admit onl;^ one 
person at a time, and are constructed in a spiral form, 
and in the neatest manner. The passage, which is 
about 130 feet long, has also two branches where 
guards might be placed to prevent intrusion. The 
cooking rooms, for part of the garrison, are near the 
second bastion ; and over the whole are to be mounted 
large cannon. 

Brock's Battery, a work of wood and earth, raised 
during the late war with the United States, is to be 
partly retained and converted into a Cavaliers' Bat- 
tery. This, as well as the magazines, barracks, offi- 
cers' quarters, &c. is within the works ; and at the 
corner next the river and town, is the old Cavaliers' 
Battery, a very heavy stone building, originally erected 
for the palace of the French governors of Quebec : 
below it, at the water's edge. Gen. Montgomery was 
killed. It has dark vaults, the walls are six feet thick, 
near the ground, and from the Telegraph on the top is 
one of the finest views that can be imagined : the 
broad surface of the St. Lawrence lies below, and 
stretches off far to the right and left : the whole cif,^ 



CAPE D^A3I0^■D. 227 

of Quebec is crowded too:elher almost beneath you, 

while Point Levi, with its white buildings, is seen op- 

' posite, with a long stretch of lofty shores. Turning 

■ the eye in the opposite direction, the beautiful ridge 
i of land, which begins many miles down the river on 

the northern side, and rises with a gentle swell from 

the shore, covered with the richest and most varied 

^ display of cultivation, offers a most delightful view 

over an extensive and fertile region, beautiful in form, 

■ divided into innumerable portions, cultivated by a 
'dense and industrious population, and scattered with 
j their clustered dwellings. On the left appears, among 

other villages, that of Lorette, with the Montreal road 
fornine miles almost lined with houses; and on the 
right that of Beaufort, occupying the ridge of the high 

i ground, while a little beyond it is the chasm into 

' ^vhich the River Montmorency plunges, with its fa- 
mous cataract, just before it joins the St. Lawrence. 

t All the horizon in that direction, and indeed from the 
west to the north, and quite to the east, is broken by 
ranges of fine mountains, some of them near and bold ; 
and in other places, between them, distant blue ridges 
are disclosed, three, four, or five in succession. Tso- 
nonthuan Mountain, which has two summits and is 

,2000 feet high in the north-west, is the southern ex- 
treme of the granite range reaching from the Labrador 
coast to Lake Superior. In the south and south-west, 
where an aperture is left, is a distant and lower range, 
scattered with cottages. It may, perhaps, not be ha- 
zarding too much to say, that no scene in Canada, or 
the United States, can boast of a combination of ob- 
jects comparable in variety and magnificence to those 
here presented to view. 

Cape Diamond derives its name from the beautiful 
little rock-crystals, which are found in veins of white 
crystalized limestone, disseminated in the black lime- 
stone blasted out for the works. The quartz stones 
used in the walls are very fine, and are brought from 
^bree miles above the city. Of those prepared for 



2,2S uuEJ5E<;. 

comer stones of a bastion, near the old governui .! 
house, are homogeneous masses of granular quartz, 
weighing 1^ or 2 tons, or even more. Some of the 
cr^^stals are perfect and brilliant, though small. 

There is a long staircase of many steps, leading i 
from this elevated position down to the Lower Town j 
by which it was originally intended to draw up heavy 
articles. 

The Plains of xIbraham. 

This interesting tract of ground, the field where 
Gen. Wolfe succeeded, by a bold and decisive blow, 
in capturing the city of Quebec in 1759, lies at only , 
about the distance of a mile, and should not be ne- \ 
glected. Indeed it would be found amply to repay j 
trie trouble, to make a much longer excursion in that ' 
direction, as the road is fine and the country inte- 



* After the battle of :JIontmoiency, while the English fleet lay up tlie 
river, at one o'clock in the night of September 12lh, 1759, Geu. Wolfe 
quietly transported his troops from the fleet into the boats, and cautiously 
passed down the river. He intended to land two or throe miles above 
Cape Diamond, and get possession of the Heights of Abraham : but was 
drifted down so rapidly that he pat-scd the place without discovering it, 
and then resolved to attempt a landing at Wolfe's Co\ e, just above the 
city. The shore is bold, and the rocks so high and steep, that only a few 
sentinels were posted along the pre( ipices and the margin. This despe- 
rate enterprise, however, did not dismuraue the loader or his troops; but 
a'! hour before daybreak they had cfi"octed their landing, and commenced 
the arduous ascent by a narrow, broken path, at the top of which was 
stationed a captain's guard. As fast as the English reached the summit 
they formed on the level jilain. 

At ten o'clock Montcalm arrived from above, and a battle was fought, 
which decided the fate of Canada Montcalm staiioned ir)00 sharp 
ehooters in front but the British coolly stood their ground till the French 
were within 40 yards, when they opened their fire, and soon afterward 
terminated the en'jagement with their bayonets. The place where the 
greatest carnage Avas n)ade, is near the river's bank, whore the English 
left was closely eniraged with the French right. 'I'he action lasted two 
hours, and in it both chiefs received their mortal wounds. Gen. Wolfe 
was shot in two or three places. When hardly any signs of life remained , 
news was brought that the dayjiad declsned for the Biiti^h : "ThPfli" 
said he, " I die content," 



WOLFE S COVE. 2Qd 

I Passing out at St. Louis's Gate, you observe a 
number of handsome dwellings and gardens, until 
you get some distance beyond the towers, when 
you turn into the Race Course on the left side of 
jtbe road. The foundation of a monument to Wolfe 
and Montcalm was laid in the city in 1827. The spot 
where Gen. Wolfe fell is near the corner of the fenced 
field, off towards the river. A little east of the place, 
is the remnant of a breastwork, with several angles, 
marked out by bushes, and commanding a fine view. 
The British line was first formed across the plain, and 
jran near the house by the road, and the battle was 
••fought principally on that ground. 
i The Plains of Abraham are about a quarter of a 
imile in breadth, extending a great distance towards 
the west, with a gentle slope on each side, and so 
'smooth as to otfer an admirable field for the manoeu- 
' vring and display of troops. From the old breast- 
, work, not only this ground is overlooked, but the ship- 
I ping in Wolfe's Cove, he opposite shore, the river to 
the next turn, &c. The spot appears, indeed, infe- 
rior in elevation only to Cape Diamond and the middle 
tower. 

Wolfe's Cove 

is about a mile further west, or half a mile beyond 
the large house seen near the river's bank. A branch 
of the road leads off to it from the left, and descends 
to the shore by a passage cut out long since the time 
of Gen. Wolfe, as the cove is now a great deposite for 
lumber. 

The course which he followed up the bank, lay 
along the channel of a little brook, which leads off to 
^,he right, while the road goes straight up the bank. 



230 QL'EBEC 



Sjege of Quebec in 1773. 

The scenes we have thus briefly recalled are not 
the only ones of a military character of which this 
commanding and delightful plain has been the theatre. 

In 1775, soon after the commencement of the Revo- 
lution, the Continental Congress prepared an expedi- 
tion against Canada. It consisted of two divisions : 
one under Gen. Montgomery came down Lake Cham- 
plain and took St. John's, Chambly, Sorel, Three 
Rivers, and then proceeded down the St. Lawrence to 
this place. The other, under Gen. Arnold, took the 
route through the wilderness of Maine for Quebec. 

Arnold had 10 companies of infantr)^ besides 3 of 
riflemen, and one of artillery, with a few volunteers. 
They proceeded up the Kennebeck, but suffered so 
much from fatigue and scarcity that many fell sick, 
and one division returned. The remainder, however, 
reached Point Levi on the 9th of November, and 
alarmed the city. The batteaux had been removed, 
and the strong wind detained them from crossing, after 
they had been supplied by the Canadians. The Eng- 
lish frigate Lizard and several other vessels were also 
in the river. He at length, however, effected a land- 
ing a little above Wolfe's Cove, and marching down 
the shore climbed up the rocks at that place, and sur- 
rounded the city without effect. He then retired 20 
miles to Pointe aux Trembles, and waited for Gen. 
Montgomery, who arrived, after great trials, Dec. 1st. 
with about 300 men. 

The two generals afterward marched to Quebec, 
and planting their mortars on the snow and ice, fired 
into the town with little effect. The small pox broke 
out, and the cold was severe ; but the town was at 
tacked at four points at once, in a snow storm, without 
success. Montgomery was killed, on the shore, about 
100 yards from the foot of the railway, under Cape 



ROAil TO JJEAUFORT. 231 

Diamond. One detachment was taken, and Arnold 
retired three miles and intrenched himself. 



I The Falls of Montmorency. 

Hire a coach, a gig, a caleche or a saddle horse, and 
'iset out, if possible, early in the morning. In a caleche, 

?ou will have the advantage of a guide in your driver. 
ass through the Palace gate and a village divided 
ifrom Quebec only by the wall, cross the bridge over 
iSt. Charles's river, which forms a regular serpentine, 
:'and enter the beautiful cultivated plain beyond. A 
s Convent and hospital are seen about a mile on the 
left, and a handsome succession of fields is observed 
!|on both sides, divided by low palings. At the dis- 
Itance of a mile and a half the road passes several 
i country houses. 

Riding down the coast, at a considerable elevation 
from the river, many fine views are presented of the 
opposite banks, the isle of Orleans, the mountains of 
St. Anne and Tourmente down the river. The dwel- 
lings are small,, and the inhabitants poor and numerous. 
The channel south of the isle of Orleans is the only 
one used by ships for some years past, but the northern 
has been surveyed recently. The latter is that by 
which Admiral Saguenay's fleet came up with Wolfe's 
I army. 

I Beaufort is a village principally composed of such 
buildings, stretching for a great distance along the 
road. Just before entering it, some large mills are 
seen on the right, standing on a stream which crosses 
the path, and beyond there is a natural pavement 
formed of the horizontal rock. There is a small 
church here, with three steeples, prettily situated on 
the river's bank, with a patch of grass and trees 
around it ; but it contains nothing worthy of particular 
attention. 
On approaching the Montmorency, the road turns to 



i232 QUEBEt, 

the left, and then to the right, on an extensive, smootl], 
and gradual ascent, part of which was the field of a 
bloody slaughter, suffered by a division of Gen. Wolfe's 
army, in 1759, a short time previous to his battle on the 
Heights of Abraham. The position of the armies 
will be more easiJy understood on reaching the oppo- 
site side of the river : it is therefore sufficient to re- 
mark here, that the French lines were bounded by 
the nearer bank, as the remains of their intrenchments 
on the left still testify ; and that the British came up 
from the shore of the St. Lav\rence on the right, to 
attack two of their nearest batteries, before the second 
of which they were cut to pieces. 

Dismounting in a little wood and fastening the 
horses, you may proceed along the precipitous bank 
of the Montmorency, by a footpath, to see the falls 
from this side. As it is a difficult way, and the view 
more fine and unobstructed from the opposite side, it 
is hardly worth the trouble, unless you have plenty ol 
time. You have to clamber rocks, pass down a long 
ladder, and stand on the verge of an abyss into which 
the cataract dashes. Water is drawn off here in a 
wooden race, for the supi ly of Mr. PattersoiVs great 
saw-mills, which are worthj^ of being visited. 

It is better, therefore, to follow the road on foot, to 
cross the bridge f where you pay a sous), and enter- 
ing the fields on the right, follow down the course of 
the river. There are several fine points of view, 
from which the falls appear to grerit advantage ; but 
on account of the height and steepness of the banks, 
it is necessary to descend towards the St. Lawrence, j 
and then return by the margin, to obtain a sight of, 
them from below. ^ i 

On the fine elevated point formed by the junction 
of the two rivers, and commanding an unobstructed i 
view upon the St. Lawrence for many miles up and [ 
down, with several lofty mountains below, the isle of 
Orleans opposite, (Quebec above, and the cataract close 
9t hand, the British here took a strong position in July, 



FALLS OF MOIsTMOllEiVCY . 23o 

H769; and from this place made a bold, but unsuc- 
.oessful attempt against their enemies on the opposite 
side. The remains of their intrenchments are plainly- 
visible under our feet. The natural and ariificial 
Istrens^th of the city combined, was enough, even in 
'those days, to discourage any attempt against it from 
Hhe water ; and in order to prevent an approach by 
• land, the French occupied two strong positions, at a 
distance above and below it : the former at Sillery 
[River, the other at the Montmorency. Wolfe here 
made a first, but unsuccessful attempt ; and afterward, 
hy a still more desperate blow, accomplished his 
wishes at the plains of Abraham. For an account of 
J the battle of Montmorency, wh refer to the note.* 
iThe best view of the cataract is to be enjoyed from 
ithe spur of the rock, which projects from the eastern 
5 shore ; but the spray, which keeps the surface covered 
ivvith a coat of green, will drench the clothes in a few 
ininutes. 
The height of the fall is said to be 240 feet ; and 

* Battle of Montmorency. 

When Gen. Wolfe came to operate against Quebec in June, 1759, he 
)0sted his army on the island of Orleans while the fleet blockaded the 
lort. At the end of that month General Monckton was sent over to 
I'oint Levi, and establislied liimself there, whence he was able to fire 
ipon the city. Above the river Montmorency, the landing was pro- 
ected by tlie Marquis de Montcalm. Gen. Wolfe landed his troops at 
lie moulli of tlie Montmorency during the night of July 31st, and erected 
X battery on the ;>recipice north-east of the falls, the remains of which 
ire to be seen. The Prencli were intrenched along tne opposite bank ; 
irid on the 31st of July, Gen. Wolfe sent his troops to ford tiie Mont- 
norency below tlie falls, to storm their works. Some of Gen. Monckton 's 
brce from Point Levi in crossing with boats got aground, and difficulty 
msued ; but the landing was made in the afternoon on the beach to the 
ight of the saw-mil!s. They came hov/ever too late ; for the thirteen 
grenadier companies, with20(i Americans, whohadlanded before, refused 
o wait or to foiin, as had been intended, in four columns, but marched 
iumultuously round the rock, and rushed up hill in a mass towa-ds the 
French works, at some distance back from the old redoubt on the point, 
'vhich had been deserted. A warm fire however was directed against; 
them, which cut down about 500 men, and they were obliged to retreat 
CO the redoubt, whence they were ordered back to the beach to form, 
I The enterprise wus then intfjiriipted bv a severe storm, and finally 
iftandoned. 



:i34 ' ciUEBEC. 

the banks on both sides below form a precipitous and 
frightful precipice, of rather a curving form, of bare, 
sharp, slaty rock, whose strata incline from north to 
south, and the perpendicular veins run nearly N. W. 
and S. E. At low water the Montmorency may be 
forded, with some caution, where it was passed by the 
British troops ; but the tide rises fast and high.* 

The Saw-Mills, built by Mr. Patterson, are situated 
behind the western shore of the Montmorency. They 
are ail contained in one large building, where the wa- 
ter enters at the third story in three channels, moving 
six gates in the second story, and five in the first. 
These gates are collections of saws, containing 6 or 8 > 
each, which cut up whole logs into planks or boards 
at once. The rafts of timber are stopped above the 
mill, taken apart, and thus floated down by a little 
canal, whence they are drawn up by machinery, 
several logs being bound together by a chain, and laid 
before the saws. Vast quantities of sawn lumber are 
generally to be seen here on the wharves, ready for 
shipping. The mill contains 80 single saws, besides 5 
circular ones, which perform their work with great 
rapidity. 

The Baron Renfrew, an immense timber ship, was 
launched from the island of Orleans in 1825. It wa- 
a built vessel, although of a rude const' uction. It wa^ 
305 feet in length, 60 feet beam, depth of hold 35 feet, 
from the keel to the tafFrail 50, bowsprit 60 feet, main- 
mast above deck, 75 ; whole, 100 ; main yard 72. 
She was 14 feet between decks ; the tiller was 28 feet 
long ; chain cable 120 fathoms 2: inch iron ; the anchor? 
weighed 75 and 90 cwt., and her measurement wa-^ 
5,282 tons. She was loaded with timber in bulk, and ^ 
carried above 6000 tons of it ; but was lost on the 
coast of France. 



* A survey was made, in 1829, of the country in the rear of theexlstinfi;' 
settlements and grants between Quebec and the St. Maurice: the first 
^■reat rocky mountainous barrier is at a distance of about tive-and-twenty 
loa^w from the St. Lawrence. In this space arc found three grent 



ROUTE niOJI QUEBEC TO EOSTOX. 



The Village op Lorette 

jmay be taken in the way returning from Montmorency, 
'if there should be time enough remaining (which is 
barely possible), and the ride along the high ridge 
leading in that direction, will be found delightful. 
'Lorette is an Indian village, with a Catholic churchj 
and the stranger may furnish himself with moccasins, 
belts, pipes, &c. 

I Route from (Quebec to Boston. It is proposed, by the 
I state of Maine, to open a road from Hallowell up the 
course of the Kennebeck river, to the Canada line 
near Qijebec. There is a communication kept up to 
'iORie extent between the two places, and considerable 
'numbers of cattle are driven every year that way; 
'but for a great distance it is necessary to pass through 
a wilderness, and in consequence of the want of 
iinhabitants, there is no shelter to be found for man or 
I beast, for several days' journeys. The names and 
distances of the principal places on this \\ ild and un- 
fiequented route, are given below. When the pro- 
posed road shall have been opened, it will be fomid a 
iconvenient way to New-England, for those who do not 
|'wi!«h to return by Montreal, and will become peopled 
land frequently travelled. This is the route by which 
jGen. Arnold approached Q,uebtc in 1775. 

' Q,uebec to the Chaudiere, or 

'Riviere du Loup 60 miles. 

valJeys, that of the Jacques Cavtier, of tlie St. Anne, and of the Batiscan 
dveis. The seltleinoms of Sionehain, Valcaitier, and Fossanibault lie 
in the first valiej'; the other two valleys are of considtrable extent, and 
contain a large quantity of cultivable lands of good quality. I'hese 
valleys are separated from each other by rocky highlands. On traversing 
the great barrier at the head waters of the Jacques Cartier river, we 
I reach at the distance pf half a mile the head waters of the Chicotimi 
1 river, which empties itself at the port of that name. This river is well 
I *«own to the Lorette Indians, who represent tlic country through whicl\ 
it passes as altogether uns'isceptlbic of culture 



Moose River .......... 3T 97 

Forks of the Kennebeck 24 121 

Upper settlement on do 12 133 

HalJowell 67 200 

Boston 170 370 

Another route along the Penobscot is also to be sur- 
veyed by the authority of the state of Maine. 

Land route from Quebec to Montreal. 
Upper road. 

(The pleasanter.) 

1st post Lorette, 16 mile>. 

2d Jacques Cartier, 16 

od Deschambeaux, 16 

4th St. Anne, 16 

5th Batiscamp, 8 

6th Champjain, 9 

7th ' Aux Cayes, 8 

8th Trois Rivieres, ^ . 6 

Lorn'cr Road. 

1st post, Cape Rouge, .' 

9d St. Augustine, 5» 

3d Fointe aux Trembles, .... 8 

4th Ecureil, 9 

5th Cape Sante, 9 

(Garneau's inn, called ^'the Three Sisiei^s,'' 
is excellent.) 
6th Deschambeaux, &c 8 mile?. 

Under the administration of Gov. Craig, in Canada,' 
a road w^as opened between this province and the pre- 
sent territory of Maine; and the inhabitants of the states, 
continuing it, a stage coach actually ran from Q,ueber 
to Boston, which is 270 miles distant. It was afterward 
neglected; and the road became so muchovergrowi'- 
tbat it would require clearing again to be useful. 



ROUTES FROM QUEBEC. 
iloAD FROM Quebec to Montreal. 

, For remarks on the advantages of travelling by land 
!on the St. Lawrence, compared with those offered by 
the steamboats, see page 211, recollectinii: that the 
passage in the latter is several hours longer up the 
river than down. The country lor some miles above 
{Quebec is more varied in its surface, than that below 
'Montreal ; and caleches and gigs may be obtained here 
as well as there. It is to be hoped that regular stage 
coaches will soon be established on the road. On 
page 236 is an enumeration of the villages and best 
iinns. The former are generally nine miles apart, but 
the distances are particularized. 

I Steamboat. Engage an early passage to Montreal. 
jln 1828, the shortest passage ever known was made in 
a steamboat to Montreal, in about 23. hours. 

Leaving the dock, you pass under Cape Diamond, 
nearly at the foot of which General Montgomery was 
killed in 1775. 

i Wolfe's Cove is about a mile beyond. See page 229. 
I For the other places along the St. Lawrence, see 
jlhe map, and the notices of them in the route from 
[Montreal t(» Quebec. 

Rapids of Richelieu, page 218. 
' Three Rivers, page 217. 
' Lake St. Peter, page 216. 

William Heni^, or Sorel, page 215. 

Montreal, page 199. 

See the route from Montreal to Lake Ontario and 
Niagara. 



13S ROUTE VUOU CAJSADA. 



From Montreal to Lake Champlain, and 
THE United States. 

Those who are returning by this route, may be ad- 
vised to cross to Longeuii instead of La Prairie, and 
go to St. John's by the way of Ctjannbly. The distance 
is nearly the same, the passage of he river is effected 
in a good horseboat, the country is much finer and 
better cultivated, and the old casfle or tower of 
Chambly is of some interest for its history. It will be 
necessary, however, to make particular arrangements 
for a carriage, and to take every precaution to arrive 
at St. John's in season for the steamboat. From Mon- 
treal to Longueil 3 miles, Longueil to Chambly l-L 
thence to St. John's 15. 

Chambly. 

This is a small village. Near the middle of it 
stands the old fort, on a point, surrounded by a ditch. 
It is an old square building, perhaps 180 feet on each 
side, with bastions at the corners, but incapable of 
withstanding heavy cannon. This fort was taken by 
Majors Brown and Livingston, in 1755, who were sent 
out with a strong detachment by (.en. Montgomery, 
while he was besieging St. John's. The garrison, 
being very feeble, surrendered. 

St. John's : see page 1 94. 

In the last war the British had 6000 men hutted here 
for a year and a half. 

Passage from St. John's to Whitehall. 

Four steamboats run from St. John's to Whitehall. 
They go every day. 
St. John's. 

Isle aux Nojx ..... 10 mile? 



PASSAGE UP LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 239 

Rouse's Point 11 miles. 

Ohazy 12 

Plattsburgh 15 

Port Kent 8 

'Burlington* 10 

Charlotte, Essex 15 

Port Clinton 10 

; Dalliba's Works J ^ 9 

Port Henry, S 
Chimney Point 12 

; Ticonderoga 15 

I Whitehall 25 

For the principal places on the lake, see the Index. 
At the time when Gen. St. Clair evacuated Ticon- 

i deroga, in 1777, the following arrangements were made 
for retreat. The baggage, hospital furniture, sick, 
park of artillery, stores, and provisions, embarked 

! under Colonel Long, under strong convoy, in 200 bat- 
teaux and five armed galleys. The main army went 
via Castleton, with St. Clair at the head and Col. 
Francis in the rear, and the general rendezvous was at 
Ske'nesborough (Whitehall.) A house which took 
fire on Mount Independence attracted the attention of 
the British, who soon began the pursuit. Gen. Frazer, 
with grenadiers and light troops, with Reidesel behind 
him. Followed by land ; while IBurgoyne cut through 
the boom and bridge, and sailed up Wood Creek. His 
gun-boats and ships overtook the American flotilla, 
took two galleys, blew up three, and the Americans 
set rire to the rest and fled on to Fort Anne. 

On leaving Ticonderoga, the lake soon becomes 
much narrower. At about nine miles distance, the 
Scotch Farms dre seen on the western shore. They are 
in the township of Putnam, and present an aspect less 
wild than most of the surrounding scenes. 

Looking back on Ticonderoga from this place, 

'*' From this town tlipre is a fmc road to Boston. 



240 ROUTE FEQ3I CANADA. 

Mount Defiance appears at about nine miles distance. 
It descends on the left to the Scotch Farms, which 
are principally cleared land, and is a good landmark. 
Beyond it is another mountain sloping like it. Ticon- 
deroga here appears to close up the passage of the 
lake, with Sword's Point on the left. 

Thk Four Channels. 

Fourteen miles from Whitehall, the lake suddenly 
contracts itself into four narrow passages, between two 
ranges of mountains, which in some places present per- 
pendicular precipices ; and its bed, at low water, ap- 
pears almost entirely occupied by a little meadow of 
the brightest gre^^n, through which the channels wind 
with beautiful serpentines. The scene is highly pic- 
turesque, the rocky points on both sides being so 
abrupt as to seem as if forcibly parted by an earth- 
quake, or a very swift and powerful stream. Every 
distant object is entirely shut out, and the banks pre- 
sent a strikin;i: aspect of wildness and seclusion. 

Some distance beyond, where the creek enters a 
small tract of level ground, it passes between two 
remarkable rocks, with precipitous banks like walls, 
about 50 feet high, like great natural bastions erected 
to guard the straits. 

A succession of beautiful little serpentines are passed, 
with ragged precipices, and many little patches of 
level ground on the margin of the water; while on 
the eastern side the tow path accompanies the bank. 

South Bay 

opens to the south, and runs down five miles between 
high mountains. Here the creek takes a sudden turn 
to the east, communicating with the bay by a little 
channel sometimes scarcely 20 yards across. General 
Dieskau took this route with his army, in going towards 
Fort Edward, in 175,'^. 



WHITEHALL. 241 

Deer are sometimes seen here in passing. On the 

: eastern side of the bay, on the mountain, is a natural 

• ice-house about four miles oflf. 

(A precipice on the east is a good mark of the ap- 

I proach to South Bay, in going up.) 
. The DevWs Pulpit is a singular cavity in the face of 
a bare precipice on the eastern side of the creek, at a 
considerable elevation, in the form of a wedge, and 
so regular as to seem a work of art, although probably 
made by the falling of a mass of the rock. 

\ Distant mountains open to the view in front, as we 

j proceed, with ranges of willows on the shore. 

' The Elbow is a narrow part of the creek, with two 
short turns, through which the passage requires a very 

l^xact helm. 

I East Bay 

! strikes off at the first bend, and makes up five miles, 
along a romantic country. A sugar-loaf hill will be 
observed at a little distance on the right, which rises 
above Whitehall, and makes the approach to that 
place quite picturesque. 

WHITEHALL. 

I On the top of a rock over the harbour was formerly 
I a battery, and in the town a blockhouse. Numerous 
; boats and great quantities of lumber are usually seen 
here, as the Champlain or Northern canal begins at 
the bridge, where are two locks, with a sluiceway, 
' and a rocky channel. 

Inns. — Rock's and W^ing's. 

The heights at this place were occupied by Bur- 

goyne's right wing, while he was preparing to march 

towards Saratoga ; his centre was formed by Gen. 

', Frazer; the Brunswickers, on the left, rested on the 

I river of Castleton ; and the Hessians were at the head 

of East Bay. 

X2 



242 ROUTE FROM CANADA. 

Roads. —StSige coaches go south, on the arrival of 
the steamboat in two directions : one on each side of 
Wood Creek and the Hudson river. That on the west 
side is recommended to those who are going directly 
on to Albany, as it passes along the route of the Cham- 
plain canal, by the " Surrender Ground," and near the 
"Battle Ground of Beinis's Heights." Coaches also 
go to the Spring-s. 

The 5«urvey of a canal route from Rutland to White- 
hall, N. Y. gives a descent of 211 feet, and an ascent 
of 274 — the distance is 24 ' miles. The height of land 
is west of Poultney river, 7 miles from Whitehall. 

Road to Boston, 178 m. 
through Walpole : See " Indexy 

To Albany, on the eastern side of the Hudson^ 
79 wi. 

West Granville 11 miles. 

East Granville*" 3 

Hebron 9 

Salem 8 

Cambridge 16 

Pittstown 13 

Lansingburgh 10 

* Saddle Mountain, whose lofty ridie will be seen from almost every 
point in this vicinity, is said to be 4,000 feet above the ocean, and 2,800 
feel higher than the site of Williams' College. It derives its name from 
its resemblance to a riding saddle. Snow lies late upon its top, where 
the climate is so cold as to admit only a stinted growth to the spruce, 
yellow birch, beech, fir, mountain ash, and other trees which are there 
to be found. Vegetation is there more than a month behind the valleys 
below. An excursion to the summit is not very difficult, and affords fine 
views. The Catskill, Watchusett, Monadnoc, and Mount Holyoke are 
visible. 

A Mineral Spring is situated about U miles north of the College in Wil- 
liamstown, and a few hundred yards east of the Albany road! I is a 
tepid water and resembles that of New-Iiebancm — temperature 75 Fah- 
renheit. Mr. West's house affords accommodations, baths, &c. to lodger? 
and the spring has proved beneficial in cut aneon? casec. 



iiOAD FROM WHITEHALL TO ALBANY. 24S 

r Troy . 3 (seepage 50) 

! Albany 6 (see p. 39 & 46) 

]To Albany, on the west side of the Hudson^ 68 m. 

Fort Anne 12 

< Fort Edward 9 

'Here a coach passes to Saratoga Springs. 

1 Fort Miller 8 

' Schiiylersville 6 fsee pasre 1^9) 

j British Lines 7 (see page 136) 

I Passing Bemis^s Heights, 

Stillwater 8 

Borough 3 

Waterford 8^ 

New Mohawk Bridge . . . 1 (see p. 54 &z; 129) 

I The road accompanies the course of Wood Creek, 
I which is dammed and used for a canal, to which its 
narrowness and depth give it a strong resemblance. 
This creek is famous in the history of the operations 
in this region during the Revolutionary and French 
wars ; and after repeated exertions to dear it of the 
logs, &c., by which it was obstructed, it bore the 
troops sent against Canada, &,c., which often passed by 
this route, from the days of Queen Anne. The scenery 
is agreeable, though rough ; and there is little cultiva- 
tion off the road 

Half a mile north of the village of Fort Anne, Wood 
Creek makes an elbow to a ledsje of rocks, so near 
that there is but little space for the road between. 
Here Col. Sterry was overtaken, in the retreat from 
Ticonderoga, in 1777, by Burgoyne's troops, and an 
engagement took place, memorials of which are occa- 
sionally found in the soil to this day. A little south, 
on the brow of the hill, a quarter of a mile from the 
stage house, stood Fort Anne, in the Revolution. 

The old fort of the same name, built many years 
previously, and known in the French wars, was about 



244 ROUTE FI103I CANADA. 

half a mile south of the village, on a gentle eminence 
a little east of the road, u here some remains of the 
old intrenchments are still to be seen. 

The remains of Burgoyne^s Road beain about two 
miles south of Fort Anne, at the foot of a hill, and are 
traced about three-fourths of a mile, near the present 
road to a wood. It was formed of logs, and found 
necessary, to render the country passable with his 
cannons and bnggage wagons. 'S'he labour necessary 
for its fonriatioji, superadded to that of clearing Wood 
Creek of the obstructions which Ge.n. Schuyler had 
thrown into it after the retreat of the Americans, was 
one great cause of the delay of the British army, on 
this part of the road — a delay which allowed the 
people time to resume their spirits, and the officers to 
lay plans, obtain resources, and prepare for the san- 
guinary scenes at Bemis's Heights and the surrender 
at Saratoga. 

French Mountain opens to view a little beyond, with 
a succession of high grounds in the direction of South 
Bay, Lake George, &,c. 

About half a mile above Fort Edward, stands an old 
tree, which marks the place where was perpetrated 

The Murder of Miss M*Crea. 

Miss M'Crea lived in the village of Fort Edward. 
In the Revolutionary war, a young man named Jones, 
to whom she was betrothed, having attached himself 
to the English cause, and joined their threes in Canada, 
was invested with a captain's command in Gen. Bur- 
goyne's army. After the retreat of the Americans 
from the lake, and while the British were approaching, 
he sent a party of Indians to Fort Edward to bring 
his intended bride to him, that he might secure her 
safety. She was very unwilling to proceed with her 
savage conducters on the road towards Fort Anne ; 
and had gone only half a mile when the Indians 
stopped to drink at a spring which still flows by the i 



JBAKEli S FALL*. 245 

moY side. While here they were met by another party 
J )f Indians despatched to hasten them on. Those who 

:ame last attempted to take her under their charge ; 
out the others, being determined not to give her up 
Sjilive, bound her to a tree that is yet standing near the 
1 spring, and shot her dead with their muskets. Locks 
[){ her hair were borne to her lover to prove that the 
ii ndians had performed what they considered their duty 
^0 their employer. 

i This story rang through the country ; and it was 
f'eported that Gen. Burgoyne encouraged, or, at least, 
ijjermitted the murder. In indignant terms he denied 
phe charge ; and there appears no probability that he 
5iad the least knovledge of it. He, however, was 
justly chargeable with a great offence against humanity, 

n bringing tribes of savages in his train, whose barba- 
rity he could never be sure of restraining. 

j Fort Edward. 

This village was built in the neighbourhood of a 
brt raised during the war of 1755, for the defence of 
his point of the river. It was first called Fort Lyman 
ifter Gen. Lyman, of whom we have already had 
{>ccasion to make honourable mention at Lake George. 
This spot was formerly called the First Carrying 
j ■'lace, being the point where, in the expeditions against 
Janada,the troops, stores, &c., were landed and taken 
]0 Wood Creek, a distance of 12 miles, where they 
;-vere again embarked. 

Baker's Falls, at Sandy Hill, 

ire worthy of particular attention, and are seen to 
peat advantage from some parts of the bank. The 
^hole descent of the river at this place is about 75 
ieet. 



246 NEW-YORK TO ?fEW-ENGLANl), 



Fort Miller. 

The viJlag'e still retains the name of a fort erected, 
on the west side of the river, in former times. It was 
a work of insignificant size, situated on the bank and 
near 

Miller's Falls. 

The descent of the river here is rapid, and over a 
broken channel. The falls were formerly considered: 
impassable with safety, until Gen. Putnam performed 
it while stationed at Fort Miller, in the French war. 

The Great Dam. 

Above Fort Edward, a large and expensive dam has 
been built across the river, and a canal cut along the! 
bank to open a passage for boats. [The dam is 900 
feet long.] 

[P'or places on any route selected by the traveller, 
see the Index.] 

TOUR OF NEW-ENGLAND. 

To Travellers ^oing Eastward Jrom New-York. 

It is recommended to the stranger who is travelling* 
eastward to see the couulry, to determine on some plan 
for his journey before setting out. A stage coach* 



* The coach sets off for New-IIaven every morniiiff at 8 o'clock, fiom 
Jaques's sia^e (»ffi •»', in Cortiaiult-stiet t, [•ast^in? thvougli Harlain on 
Manhattan Island, West Chester, Kas! Cheste:. Niw Roclielle, Man)a 
ronec, and Rye, in the staie of New- York ; and G ponwich, Stamford, 
Darien, Norwalk, Fairfield, Bridgeport, Stratford, MiUord, and Orange, 
in Connecticut. 

In Harlffini, the road passes near the East river, and gives a view of 
Hell Gate. 

/^''vond Morris?ania. the estate and manpion of the Hon. Gov. Morris 



1 1 EAST lilVEli. 2 IT 

I wes every morning* to Connecticut, and onward; but 
' ihis is not the most agreeable route. Steamboats go 
Tora New York to the following places on the northern 
, shore of Long Island Sound : Norwalk, Stamford, 
i: Stratford, New-Haven, Connecticut river (and up that 
?:o Hartford), New-London (and Norwich), Newport 
^vand Providence). 

EAST RIVER. 



Leaving iVew-York, in any of the East river steam- 
;i3oats, the traveller has Brooklyn on the right (now 
he third town for size in the state, and strictly a sub- 
irb of the capital). 

The Navy Fa m, just beyond. 
I The Railway, for ships, is above, on the west side. 



een on the right : one of the finest for tastefiilness and extent in this 
I lart of the country. (See Battle of White Plains, page 22.) 
J In the town of Horseneck, 33 milts ficini New- York, is a steep hiJl 
I descending towards the north, down wnich General Piit'iam once effected 
I :is escape from several British officers aiid soldiers during the revolu- 
j lonary war, when returning from a scout. He drove his horse hastily 
I owri the rocky hill side, a little east of the road, and near tlie fence, and 
I aved .so much distance as to elude his pursuers. 
West Chester, and the country about it, were at that period neutral 
round : and Mr. Cooper, the novelist, has made them the scene of his 
lopnlar tale — "The Spy." 

In the town of Fairfield, 53 miles from New- York, a mile or two be- 
ire reaching the village, is a low, level piece of ground, on die right- 
;and side of the road, which was formerly an ainiost impenetrable 
wanip, and, at an early period of our history, was the scene of a bioody 
laughter. Ft was hither that the remains of a powerful and lerrible 
lation of Indians, called Pequods, having fled from tlieir country about 
Jew-Londnn and Groton, after the destruction of tlieir fort at Mystic 
y Capt. Mason, in 1R36, were either killed or taken captive. This was 
heir last ajid total defeat, aad extiiguished their name as a nation, 
iuch of the ground has been cleared in modern times ; and some relics 
•ave been found to confi'-m the traditions of the neighbourhood. 
This place was burned by the British in the Revolution. Danbai^', an 
aland town, was also burned, with extensive public stores, and an action 
•/as fought in which Gen. Wooster fell. 

On the east side of Housatonnuc, or Strat<brd river, a mile or more 
.bove *hp bridge, was once a fort, built by the Indians of the place, to 
ecure themselves against the Mohawks, who had subjugated most of 
ae country on the western side of Connecticut river before the arrival 
S the English. It has been proposed to make a canal along the course 
f the HoiLsatonnuc 



Mo _\E\V-i:oKiv TO i\Jb:W-Ei\GLANi>- 

The old Penitentiary and Fever Hospital are ju^ 
above, on the shoie. 4 

BlackweWs Island. — The new Penitentiary has beeii 
erected on this itisulated spot, which offers many ad*- 
vantages for such an institution. The building is about 
1000 feet from the south end of llie island. Its foun- 
dation, which is solid rock, is about 20 feet above 
high water mark. The building, which is 200 feet in 
length by 50 in breadth, will contain 240 cells, each 
3- ieet by 7, and separated by a partition 2 feet thick. 
Opposite eacl) cell there is an aperture in the outer 
wall, through which the inmate will receive a suffi- 
ciency of fresh air. The interior is upon the plan of 
the State Prison at Singsing, with the exception that 
the galleiy around the cells is of iron instead of wood, 
the ascent to which is by a geometrical staircase. The 
doors to the cells are all of iron — indeed, the only 
wood in the building is in the roof, which may even 
be burned off without the least danger to the rest o^ 
the building. The stone of which the walls and floort 
are made, is the common gneiss, and was all quarried 
on the island and hewed by the convicts. The lime 
used in constructing the prison, was also burned on thf 
island. Four sentinels are placed on elevated platlorm 
in different parts of the island, who are allowed m 
intercourse either by word or sign wit he prisoners 
They are marched rank and file to their meals in i' 
temporaiy building prepared lor the purpose, when 
they also dispose themselves lor sleep at the word ol 
command, and sentinels march between their rank^ 
during the night. No spiritous liquor is allowed to b( 
brought upon the island. Four excellent springs C 
water afford them drink. 

The island is 1[ njiles in length and about 600 fee 
in width, and will yield abundance of vegetables. F 
was the design of the Corporation in purchasing Ihi 
island, to make it the seat of punishment in all it 
forms. At the extremity of the island, ojiposite lh( 
Fenitentiai-v. will he another for femal'^'; — and between 



SEVV-ifAVES. ^49 

this and the overseers house on each side, will be two 
other buildings for vagrants of both sexes. 

At Hell Gate^ numerous objects present themselves 
on entering the bay. On the distant high ground, west, 
is seen the Lunatic Asylum ; a white blockhouse on 
the hill on the east side ; below it, an old fort by the 
water ; and a number of handsome country houses 
along the green shore on the left. The first of these 
is Commodore Chauncey's, next, Mr. Schermerhorn'sy 
then, Messrs. Prime's, Astor's, &c. The surface of the 
river is broken by several rocks, and bj- the agitation 
of the water, particularly at the whirl called the Great 
Pot, a little north of the fort, and the rapid current on 
the opposite shore known by the name of the Hog's 
Back. In coming from the north, almost the first view 
of New- York is here presented, between the western 
shore and Blackwell's Island, with a shot tower on the 
right. 

New-Havek. 

Toniine Hotel, Stage House (Sione^s). Several pri- 
vate boarding-houses. This is decidedly one of the 
most beautiful towns in the United States. The soil 
is not very good, and the situation is low ; the town 
(or rather city) is laid out in squares, with straight and 
broad streets, and the elevated ground in the neigii- 
bourhood renders the approach very fine from almost 
every direction. It stands at the head of a spacious 
bay, with a lighthouse on the eastern point, a small 
fort on the shore, another on Prospect Hill, and two 
Bluffs, called East and West Rocks, 2 or 3 miles behind 
the town. A more distant peak is seen between them, 
which is Mount Carmel. The long wharf is three 
quarters of a mile in length. The steamboats stop at 
the bridge, where carriages will be found in waiting 
to take travellers to the centre of the town, which is 
?nore than a mile distant. 

^^u the shore, near the bridge, is a large building in 
Y " 



2aU ROUTE 1?{ CONI^ECTICUT. 

tended for a steamboat hotel, but now occupied aa a: 
School for the education of Boys, by the Messrs. » 
Dvvight. The system resembles that of the Round 
Hill School at Northampton. The streets of the town ► 
are regular and pleasant, forming squares, one of which 
is a green surrounded by rows of elms, with three • 
churches and the new State House in the middle, and 
the College buildings occupying the western side, pre- ; 
senting a scene probably not equalled by any town of 
this size in the United States. The abundance of fine i 
trees, the neatness and beauty of the dwellings, the 
good society of the place, and the distinguished posi- , 
tion it holds as a seat of learning, render New-Haven 
the resort of a great number of strangers during the . 
travelling season, and the temporary residence of not 
a few. 

Connecticut School Fund. — This fund now amounts •. 
to $1,882,251, or nearly two millions of dollars. By, 
means of this fund, the government of the state is 
enabled annually to return to the citizens nearly twice 
the amount withdrawn in taxes. It enables parents to 
educate their children almost gratuitously. 

There is a Hopkins's Gram tnar School in the town,' 
and a number of Boarding Schools for young ladies,, 
with instructers in every branch of useful and orna- 
mental education. A flourishing Lancasterian School 
in this place contains about 200 boys. 

Yale College. — This institution, however, is the prin- 
cipal object which will attract the attention of the , 
stranger. It was founded in 1701, and first located at 
Killingworth, then removed to Saybrook, and after a 
few years permanently fixed in this town.* The first 
building was of wood, and stood near the corner of; 
College and Chapel-streets. There are now four 
buildings for students, each containing 32 rooms ; a , 
Chapel, with a Philosophical chamber and apparatus, 

"*• The expense of tuition, room,&:c. for a year, is about f 50— pf boani 
in Comraons, about .¥7r» 



lALE COLLEGE. !^5 1 

an Observatory and a Lyceum, with recitation rooms 
and the library. In the rear are the Gymnastic appa- 
ratus, the Commons Hall, in a small building with the 
splendid Mineralogical Cabinet above, which is the 
'finest collection of the kind in the United States, lately 
■purchased from Colonel Gibbs of New-York. In 
another building is the Chemical Laboratory, where 
Professor Silliman delivers his lectures. The insti- 
tution contained, in 1829, 496 students, distributed as 
follows : — Theological Students, 'i9 ; Law Students, 
21; Medical Students, 61; Resident Graduates, 6 ; 
Seniors, 71; Juniors, 87 ; Sophomores, 95 ; Freshmen, 
106. 

An Observatory has recently been erected, after the 
model of the Tower of the Winds at Athens, and in 
like manner surmounted with a Triton. 

Next north of the College is the house of President 
Day, and the professors have pleasant residences in 
the town. The new State House and the churches 
on the green, present a remarkably fine appearance ; 
with the College buildings and numerous elegant 
houses around it. 

The Medical Institution is at the north end of Col- 
lege-street. Like many other buildings in the place, 
it is of rough stone, covered with plaster. The canal 
passes just in the rear. 

In 1826 there were 336 students who received de- 
grees in all the colleges of New-England. The 
number of students in all the Medical Schools in the 
United States in that year was about 1700. 

Colleges in New-England. — There were 1399 stu- 
dents in ail the New-England Colleges in 1827, of 
whom 130 belonged to Maine, 131 to New-Hampshire, 
146 from Vermont, 431 from Massachusetts, and 196 
from Connecticut. 

[According to the Registers of the several States, 
there are in New-England, exclusive of Rhode Island, 
1,633 ministers of the Gospel, viz. 862 Congrega- 
tjonalists, 605 Baptists, 167 Methodists, 72 Rpisco- 



252 ROUTE IN CONHECTieUT. 

palians, 15 Presbyterians, 85 Freewill Baptists, 24 
Universalists, and 6 Christ-ians. Of these 228 are in 
Maine, 241 in New-Hampshire, 284 in Vermont, 497 
in Massachusetts, and 383 in Connecticut. In propor- 
tion to the population, the ministers of all denomina- 
tions are, in New-Hampshire, as 1 to 1,013 ; in Massa- 
chusetts, as 1 to 1,052 ; in Connecticut, as 1 to 7 18 ; in 
Vermont, as 1 to 830. Of the Congregational ministers, 
101 are in Maine, 111 are in New-Hampshire, 114 in 
Vermont, 352 in Massachusetts, and 184 in ConneC' 
ticut ; being: to the whole population respectively, as 
1 to 2,952 ; 1 to 2,199 ; 1 to 2,068 ; 1 to 1,486 ; and 1 
to 1,495. It should be noticed, however, that the 
Registers are not perfectly accurate, and that we are 
obliged to compare the population in 1820 with the 
number of ministers in 1827. There are thought to 
be about 10,000 schoolmasters in New-England. The 
militia of Connecticut, officers and privates, amount to 
about 28,000 men.] 

A General Hospital Society for the state of Connec- 
ticut was founded in 1828 ; and the building is to be 
erected in New-Haven. 

The JVew Burying Ground is situated opposite the 
Medical Institution, and occupies a large extent of 
land, partly planted with poplars, and containing a 
great number of beautiful ornaments, of different de- 
signs. It is considered the most beautiful cemetery in 
this country. 

The Old Burying Ground was in the middle of the 
green, in the rear of the Centre Church, and there are 
to be seen two ancient stone monuments, of a small 
size, which are supposed to mark the graves of two 
of the regicide judges, Whalley and Dixwell, although 
there is much doubt on the subject. (See Stiles's 
Judge«.^ 



THE FARMIN'GTON CANAL 



New-Haven and Farmington Canal. 

This work was commenced about three years ago, 
and is designed to afford a navigable boat channel, to 
the Massachusetts line in Simsbury, where it is met 
by the Hampshire and Hampden Canal, which is to 
strike Connecticut River at Northampton. By an act 
passed in 1828 by the legislature of Massachusetts, 
this work may be continued along the course of the 
river, and the associated companies extend their 
views to the construction of a Canal to Barnet in Ver- 
mont. The Company for the Improvement of Con- 
necticut River are, at the same time, pursuing a system, 
which will be hereafter more particularly adverted to. 
The New-Haven and Farmington canal, commencing 
near the head of the wharf in this city, is crossed by 
the traveller in going up from the steamboat, near the 
market. The basin is large and commodious ; and the 
canal, passing through a part of the city, and bending 
round along the outskirts, on the north side, intersects 
several streets, by which it is crossed on handsome 
bridges. With a gradual ascent, the canal passes 
somewhat circuitously up the valley which opens 
towards Mount Carmel, between East and West 
Rocks ; and one of the stage roads to Hartford, which 
passes through Cheshire and Farmington, affords many 
views of it in different places. When the whole line 
shall become navigable, it will be an attraction to 
many travellers, and in a future edition, the objects 
along it may be particularized. 

The rates of toll established in 1828 were — 10 cents 
a mile on every packet boat, and 3 cents on every 
passenger ; 2 cents a mile on freight boats of less than 
20 tons, and 3 cents on larger ones ; 1 or U cent pel 
. mile, on most heavy articles per ton, in boats, and i 
cents in rafts. 
The first part of the canal passes throsigh an ea«t 



So4 ROUTE IN difyi'NECTlCVT. 

and natural channel, where is little variation in the 
surface ; and introduces us to the beautiful and fertile 
meadows at Farming^ton. The upper part, however, 
and particularly the Hampshire and Hampden Canal, 
required much lockage ; but the irregularity of the 
country will present an interesting variety of scenery. 
Jocelyn has published an elegant and valuable map of 
the canal and adjacent country, to the Canada line. 

There are pleasant rides in various directions from 
New- Haven, the roads being numerous, and the face of 
the country favourable. The two mountains command 
extensive views, and though the access is rather 
fatiguing, the excursion is recommended to those who 
are fond of such enterprises. 

The Judges^ Cave is on the summit of West Rock, 
about a mile north of the bluiF: and the way to it 
leads near Beaver Pond, and Pine Rock (on the south 
side of which is a small cave), then between Pine and 
West Rocks. You here turn off the road to the left, 
by a path across a brook : and a guide may usually be 
obtained at a small house just beyond, who can show 
a horse path to the summit. 

The cave is formed by the crevices between seven 
large rocks, apparently thrown together by some con- 
vulsion. It is small, and entirely above ground, with 
a rude rock, like a column, on each hand. That on the 
right contains this inscription, 

" Opposition to tyrants is obedience to God," 

to remind the visiter that the place once afforded shelter 
to Goffe and Whalley, two of the iudges of king 
Charles the First, who escaped to the colonies and 
secreted themselves for some time in this solitary 
place. They were supplied with food by a family 
which resided near the foot of the mountain, aad a 
little boy was despatched for them every day, who 
left a basket of provisions on a rock, without knowing 
what cause he was STibserving. The place commands' 



K«)Al) TO .'^l.IDDLETOWN, 25.^ 

ail extensive view upon tiie country below, with a 
large tract ot" Long Island, and the Sound. 

The Manufactory of Muskets^ is 2 miles north of 
New-Haven, on the road to Hartford, by Meriden, and 
at the foot of East Rock. It was established by Mr. 
Whitney, the well-known inventor of the Cotton Gin. 
The machinery is carried by the water of a small 
river, and the houses of the overseers and workmen 
make a pretty appearance on the shore. Muskets are 
made here in all their parts, many of them for the 
arsenals of the United States. li: is designed to make 
the arms so much alike, 'hat the parts may be applied 
indifferently to all that proceed from the same manu- 
factory. It is not found possible, however, to accom- 
plish this object to the full extent desired. 

Road to Middletown. 

Northford ; * 10 miles. 

Durham 8 

Middletown . . . (> 

For a description of this beautiful town, see beyond, j 

Beyond New-Haven in Long Island Sound, lies a 
cluster of islands called the Thimbles, famous in the 
traditions of the neighbourina: Connecticut coast, as 
the ancient resort of Capt. Ividd, a notable pirate, 
whose treasures of solid gold, it is still believed by 
some, are concealed somewhere hereabouts. Within 
this labyrinth of islands and headlands is a little 
secluded bay or inlet, capable of containing only one 
vessel at a time, which bears the name of Kidd's Har- 
bour. There is also his island, his chair, and his 
* punch bowl.' There are several houses along the 
snore, within a few miles of this place, which are re- 
sorted to during the warm season by a considerable 
number of visiters from the interior, for the sake of 
bathing in the salt water, and eating lobsters, black 
fi^h, and ovsters. In September and October, ducks 



256 ROUTE I^ CONISECTICUT. 

may be found in great quantities near the shore, and 
black fish are caught in considerable numV)ers ; but 
the best fishing is further east, at New-London, New-| 
port, &;c. 

[As it is necessary, in a work like this, we have 
undertaken to pursue some definite course, and to 
mention places and objects in the order in which they 
will probably occur to most travellers, we shall here 
leave Long Island Sound to proceed up Connecticut 
River, and only refer the reader to the Index for an 
account of the coast beyond, and the following subjects 
and places : New-London, the Thames, Norwich, 
the Mohicans, the Pequods, Saccacus's Fort, Mystic 
Fort, the Narragansett shore, Newport, Providence, 
kc] 

SAYBROOK. 

At this place was the first settlement made by Euro- 
peans on Connecticut River. It was done at the earnest 
solicitation of many of the rightful proprietors of the 
country on its banks, who had been despoiled of their 
possessions by their formidable enemies, the Pequods. 
The River Indians, as our old histories usually deno- 
minate the former, twice made application to the 
English at Plymouth and at Boston, to obtain settlers 
upon their native soil, offering to give them land enough, 
and to pay 200 beaver skins annually for the benefil 
of their society. But the undertaking was considered 
too hazardous, and it was not until the year 1635, wher 
the Dutch at New- York showed a determination to 
seize upon the country, which they claimed as theii 
own, that a small detachment of men was sent froir 
Boston by water to prepare for opening a trade witl 
the Indians, and to build a fort at the mouth of tin; 
river. Their haste was soon justified by events : foi 
immediately after their landing, a Dutch vessel entered 
and proceeding up to Hartlbrd, landed a body of meu 
who soon established themselves in a fort they callr 




lJ.SJ7iroo/i JcJ^JT 



SAVr.UOOK. xf.j./ 

Good Hope, on a spot tiiey obtained from Pequod 
usurpers. 

The settlejnent of Saybrook was begun under a 
grant made to Lord Say and Seal, Lord Brook, a tut 
others, by George Fenwick, Esq. who fled to this 
country with his family. The old fort stood near the 
present fort hill, upon an eminence which has since 
been destroyed by the waves ; and the ground imme- 
diately behind it was afterward occupied by the 
fields and habitations of the colonists. It was expected 
from the first, that the situation would render the place 
a ^reat city ; and after the fear of the Indians had 
subsided, the whole peninsula, which bears the name 
of Saybrook Point, was laid out with the greatest 
regularity into fields of an equal size, except such parts 
xis were reserved for the erection of public buildings. 
Yale College was placed here for a time, and a great 
number of emigrants were once collected in England, 
and prepared for a voyage to this place. Some persons 
of high rank and importance were among them, and it 
is a vvell-authenticated fact, that Oliver Cromwell had 
determined to embark in the enterprise, and was once 
on the very eve of quitting England for ever, when 
some unforeseen occurrence prevented him. 

The want of a harbour, and the obstacles presented 
to a free navigation by a large sand bar at the mouth 
of the river, have effectually prevented the expecta- 
tions of the settlers of Saybrook from being realized ; 
and no remains of their works can now be discovered, 
except in the rectangular forms of the fields, and the 
cellars of some of their dwellings, just beyond the 
burying ground, the foundation stones of which have 
since been employed in building the neighbouring 
fences. One of the largest excavations is said to have 
been the cellar of the old colI«;ge building. The sol- 
diers were frequently attacked within a short distance 
of the tort by the Pequods, but they afterward ran a 
palisride across the isthmus which leads from the main- 
land, 



ROUTE IN CONNECTICU 



CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

The shores present a continued succession ot hilly 
and picturesque country, with few interruptions ot 
level land, from a little above Saybrook as far as Mid- 
dletown. The roughness and rocky nature of the soil 
prevent the cultivation of many mountainous tracts 
yet there are farms enough to give a considerable 
degree of softness to the scenery. The variety of 
rocky and wooded banks, mingling with little patches 
of cultivated ground, and the habitations scattered' 
along the river, is very agreeable, and often afford^ 
scenes highly picturesque and delightful. 

Essex, 

7 miles from Saybrook. 

This place was formerly caller- Pettipaug. It is a 
small village, situated on the ascent and summit of a' 
handsome elevation, and contains a church and one or 
two other public buildings, on a conspicuous position. 
Just above it is an island of some extent, which divides'! 
the river and gives it an unusual breadth. During thci 
late war with Great Britain, this place was taken by; 
the enemy, who came up the river in launches, and' 
taking the inhabitants by surprise, occupied the town; 
for a few hours. 

Some distance above this place the channel lies soj 
near the eastern shore, that the steamboat passes' 
almost under the trees by which it is shaded. 

Joshua'' s Rock is on the same side of the river, a, 
little below Brockway's Ferry. It is said to have de- 
rived its name from the son of Uncas, Sachem of the' 
Mohicans (see J\orwich)y who, according to a tradition 
current in the neighbourhood, being once closely pur- _ 
sued by enemies, threw himself from the top of the' 
rock, and perished in the river. 



uAi>i>AM. ^^5y 



"Warners Ferry, 1 3 miles from Sayhrook. 
East Haddam. 

j The landing place here is rocky, mountainous, and 
vild, and a good specimen of a large portion of the 
own to which it belongs. Gen. Champion has a fine 
i ouse built among the rocks above, which adds much 
1 3 the appearance of the place. This region is famous 
or a kind of earthquakes and subterranean sounds, 
vhich were formerly common for a short distance 
ound. They gave occasion to many superstitious 
eports, but have ceased within a ^qw years. They 
/ere called Moodus Noises, after the Indian name of 
he place. Large beryls are found in the neighbour- 
j cod, and many other minerals interesting to the scien- 
ific traveller. 



H 



\DDAM 



s built on an eminence 50 or 60 feet high, which ap- 
)ears like the remains of an old bank of the river, 
lescending aMittle meadow which is covered with 
•rchards, grazing ground, &c. while a range of com- 
nanding hills rise beyond. 

HiGGENUM 

3 one of the little landing places so numerous along 
he river's course, 2 miles above Haddam. 

Middle Haddam, 2 miles. 

This is a pleasant country village, stretching along 

> hill covered with orchards and house lots, and 
racked by higher and wilder eminences. It is about 

> miles below Middletown, 



.'OU KOLTE lis COisKECTiCiT. 

Looking down the river from a little above tlji 
place, a lar^e and beautiful hill is seen, which affords 
the richest scene of cultivation on this part of the river, 
being entirely covered v^'ith fields and orchards. A i 
large wooded eminence is a little higher up, and several i 
high hills, almost worthy of the name of mountains 
are visible in the north. 

The Narrows. 



Here the river turns abruptly to the west, and flows 
between two lofty hills, which it has divided at some 
long past period, before "which, there is eveiy reason 
to believe, the country for a great distance above was 
covered by a lake. A mile or two eastward of this 
place, there is the appearance of an old channel, where 
the water probably ran, at a great height above its 
present level. 

The Lead Aline is a short distance from the southern 
bank of the river, near two or three old houses. 

Fort Hill is the last elevated part of the southern I 
bank. It was formerly a little fortress belonging to f 
Souheag, an Indian chief, whose dominion extended ' 
over the present towns of Middletown, Chatham, and 
Wetherstield. The large buildings on the hill in Mid 
dletown were erected ibr Capt. Partridge's Academ}-. 

MIDDLETOWN 

is beautifully situated on the western bank of the river, 
where the water is spread out to a considerable breadth, 
and disappears so suddenly at the Narrows, that from 
many points of view, it has the appearance of a small 
lake, w^ith high, sloping, and cultivated shores. This 
is a most agieeable residence for strangers, particularly 
Tor families, during the pleasant seasons of the year, 
and -^vill no doubt be soon supplied with more nume- 
rous and extensive accommodations. 
A large hotel has recently been built, v.liich iskep- 



:U[Dl)Li:TOWN, 



i6l 



by Mr. Newton. Mr. Camp's and Mr. BoardmarCs 
(in the same street) are large inns. 

The Quarries of Freestone., on the opposite shore, 
ha%'e i'urnished a valuable building material for somt* 
years, and have been worked to a considerable extent. 

Manufactories. Cotton, Woollen, and Rifle Manu- 
factories, and three machine shops, are near the bridge 
at the south end of the street. Col. North's Pistol 
Manufactory is situated two or three miles west of the 
town. There are also Starr's Rifle Factory, Johnson's 
Sword Factory, the Pameacha Woollen,* Spalding's 
Tape, and Pratt's Comb factories. 

There are various pleasant rides in this neiehbour- 
hood, particularly to two picturesque Water Falls in 
Middlefield. In the direction of one of them is Laurel 
Grove, where the road is shaded for near halt' a mile 
with those shrubs, which, in the season, are covered 
Iwith flowers. The environs of this place afford other 
agreeable rides. 

The Lead Mine is about two miles below the town, 
3n the south shore of the river, accessible only on foot 
Dr in a boat, where are several old shafts, which were 
i»unk in the Revolutionary war, in a slate rock. The 
I'Dre is a sulphuret ot' lead, in veins of quartz, partly 
I crystallized, and affording a few specimens ol' fluate 
^f lime, and other minerals. 

I The Cobalt Mine is about five miles east, in Chatham; 
lat the foot of Rattlesnake Hill. It is not worth work 
;!ng, at the usual price of the metal. Specimens of 
I peach-bloom of cobalt may be picked up among the 
•Rubbish. Just southerly from it is a very pretty water 
all, about thirty feet high. 

A number of German families live in the neighbour^ 
bood ; the descendants of miners, who came from 
Europe some years ago to work the mine. 



* The Pameacha Manufactory employs from 350 to 200 persons, con- 
sumes 100,000 lbs. of tint' wnnl. and ti'ini* 'iiil ■'ifl.OOn vd'^ of finished 
sroatJcloth a vear. 



^b'r KOUTE Uf CO^NECTICl;T KlViK. 



Upper Houses, 

ar village of Middletown, 2 miles above. 

From a hill 1 mile from this is a very pleasant view 
towards the south, presentinp^ the river, with the mea- 
dow and hills, as well as xMiddletown and the fine 
hi^h grounds in its rear. The small divisions of the 
soil and the density of the population, as well as the 
fertility of the ground, and the frequency of school- 
houses and churches, here show one of those interest- 
ing and beautiful scenes characteristic of Connecticut 
River, and which the traveller will find repeated all 
along its course far into New-Hampshire and V^er- 
mont. 

Rocky Hill, 5 miles, a parish of VVethersfield. About 
half a mile north of the tavern, you reach the brow of 
a hill, which commands a rich prospect of many miles 
of the Connecticut Valley. Wethersfield lies in front, 
and the variegated hills and plains around belong to 
numerous townships on both sides of the river, en- 
closed by ranges of distant highland, which direct the 
course of its channel. On the left, about 15 miles off, 
is the ridge of Ta cott mountain; and the two blue 
peaks in the north are Mounts Tom and Holyoke,near 
Northampton, at the distance of about fifty miles. 

Wethers/idd, 3 miles from Hartford. This place has 
a fine light soil, on an extensive level, probably once 
the bottom of a lake since drained by the deepening 
of the river's channel. It is peculiarly favourable to 
the culture of onions, which are exported in great 
quantities to various parts of the country, the West 
Indies, &,c. 

Wethersfield was one of the three earliest settle- 
ments made by white men in Connecticut : or rather 
it may strictly claim the precedence of all, for although 
houses were first built here, as well as at Hartford and 
Windsor, in 1635, three or four men came to this place 
^he year previous, and spent the winter. Depredalions 



CO'NNECTICUT STATE PRISON. 2^3 

were committed on their settlements for the first few 
years ; but as they were done by the Pequods, the 
destruction of that nation at Mystic Fort, by Capt. 
Mason, in 1636, f<ut an end to them entirely, and this 
part of the river was never afterward made the 
theatre of war. 

The Connecticut State Prisok. 

The situation of this institution is healthy, retired, 
and convenient to the water and the ^reat road. It 
was completed in 1817 ; and is worthy of the attention 
of those who feel an interest in the condition and pros- 
pects of the unhappy inmates of such edifices. What 
have heretofore been regarded as the necessary evils 
of prisons, will here be found greatly reduced; and, 
in many respects, even with regard to the prisoners, 
converted into benefits. 

The modern improved principles of prison discipline 
have nowhere produced so sudden and so beneficial 
a change as in the state of Connecticut. An old cop- 
per mine at Granby was for many years the State 
Prison, and was conducted on the old and vicious 
system. Here the Auburn system has been established, 
with some few deviations. 

The whole is under the direction of Mr. Pilsbury, a 
man of firmness, judgment, and humanity. The men 
are brought out to their work at signals given by the 
bell. They lodge in solitary cells, and are not per- 
imitted to converse together while at work. They 
take their food in their cells, and when going to and 
from work or prayers, are obliged to march with the 
lock step. They are to be chiefly employed in brick- 
i making. No blows are allowed to be given by the 
! officers except in self-defence. 

j The smiths' fires are supplied with Lehigh (Penn- 
sylvania) coal for fuel ; and part of the heat is con- 
ducted away in pipes to warm the apartinents. The 
cells are furnished with comfortable bed? and bed 



264: ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT ItIVE«. 

clothes, and a Bible for each. They are ranged id 
rows, and the keepers can look into them through 
grated doors ; at the same time the prisoners are not 
able 'to converse with each other. The effects of evil 
communication, so much and so banefully cherished in 
our old prisons, are thus effectually prevented. Nei- 
ther oflficers nor convicts are allowed to use ardent 
spirits. The inmates are kept clean and comfortably 
clad; and vvhilp shut up from sociey, whose laws 
they have infringed, they are not debased and rendered 
more vicious and dangerous by bad example or evil 
counsel; but are usf^ fully and healthfully employed, 
instructed, invited to return to virtue and respectability, 
and consigned for a large portion of the time to soli- 
tude and undisturbed reflection. 

HARTFORD. 

//WIS.— The City Hotel, (by J. Morgan,) and the 
United States Hotel, (by H. Morgan,) are two of the 
best houses in the country. 

This is the semi-capital of the state, and a place of 
considerable husines-, as well as one of the great 
points at which the principal roads concentrate. No 
fewer than ten weekly papers are published in this 
city. 

The Charter Oak. — In the lower part of the town, 
in the street which runs east from the south church, is 
the ancient and respectable seat of the VVyllys family, 
who were among the early settlers of Harttbrd, and 
have made a conspicuous figure in the history of the 
state, as well as ot the town, by supplying the Secre- 
tary's office f )r a long course of time. This place is 
now owned by Mr. Bulkley, and has undergone con- 
siderable changes. The principal object of curiosity 
here is, however, the fine old oak, which stands on the 
street in front. It is said to have been a forest tree 
l)efore the land was cleared, yet it appears as firm and 
vigorous as ever. In a hole in its trunk was hiddefi 



HARTFORD. 26;'/ 

ihe charter of the colony, when Sir Edmund Andross 
sent to demand it in 1687 ; and there it remained for 
some years. 

This interesting document is still preserved in the 
office "f the Secretary of the state. 

The Asylum for the Education of the Deaf and 
Dumb is about a mile west of the town, on Tower 
Hill. It was the earliest institution of the kind in 
America, and is under the direction of a board of di- 
rectors, who publish annual reports of its condition. 
Mr. Gallaudet, a gentleman who was sent to Europe 
to qualify himself for the purpose, is principal ; and 
Mr. Le Clerc, a favourite pupil of the Abbe Sicard oi 
Paris, occupies the next station. He is a man of su- 
perior talents, although deaf and dumb. 

The principal building is large, ornamented with 
pilasters, and surrounde i by a garden and pleasant 
grounds. The house of the superintendant is near by, 
an i the whole enjoys a fine situation, with a command- 
ing prospect and a healih^^ neighbourhood 

The stranger wi;l receive u.icommon gratification, 
from a visit to th s benevolent institution on the days 
appointed for the admission of visiters. The deaf and 
dumb are generally remnrkable for close observation, 
readines> of apprehension, an eager thirst for know- 
ledge, and a very retentive recollection; and, as all 
their instruction, bt-ing communicated through the 
sight, can be obtained only by the strictest attention, 
and the abstraction of the mind from every other 
subject, the appearance of a class absorbed in their 
lesson i< calcu ated to produce feelings of an unusual 
and highly interesting character. 

Every deaf and dumb person soon forms a language 
of natural signs, by which he is able to communicate 
the most necessary ideas on first arriving at the As3rlum. 
He is then taught the alphabet in use here, which i« 
made by the fingers of one hand ; after which the 
names of visible objects are easily spelled, and the 
order of their letters committed to Hjemory Absent 
Z 2 



2U.G KOUTE IF CONNECTICUT iilXi^li, 

objects and abstract ideas are communicated by mauy 
ina:enious devices, which it is impossible here to de- 
scribe ; and arhitrary signs are adopted to represent, 
such as may require them. Definitions are very ex- 
tensively resorted to ; and they are always of the 
most strictly logical character. Indeed, the whole 
system is one of the most complete and be utiful of 
the kind ever formed on philosophical principles. 

The number of scholars is about 130. Some of 
them are supported by a fund belong;in2f to the insti- 
tution, and others by the states of M;issachusetts, 
New-Hampshire, &c. Similar institutions exist in the 
city and state of New-York, Philadelphia, &c. and 
one has lately been provided for in Kentucky. 

The Hopkins's Grammar School, which has been 
recently much enlarged, is in the lower part of the 
town. 

The Retreat for the Insane is a little south of the 
city, and makes a handsome appearance, beins: a stone 
building 150 feet long and 50 wide, the wings having 
three stories, and the main building four, ft is capa- 
ble of containing about 50 patients, and is warmed by 
flues. The grounds connected with the institution 
include about 17 acres. 

Miss Beecher''s School justly enjoys a very high repu- 
tation. 

Washington College is situated west of the main 
street, in the south part of the town. It is an episco- 
pal institution, and has at present two stone build- 
ings erected : one for the s'udents, 150 feet long, four 
stories high, with accommodations for 96 pupils ; and 
a chapel, which has also rooms for recitation, the 
library, &lc. The college bills are g52 50 per annum 
in all ; and the students board in private families at 
the rate of ^1 50 per week. 

Fourteen acres of land belong to the institution, part 
of which are devoted to the garden with its green-house. 

A lai^e episcopal school has recently opened for 
young ladies near this institution. 



TKAVELLIKG IN rvEW-ENGLAND. 267 

[jMrntevideOi the seat of Daniel Wadsworth, Esq. 
Iljoys a charming situation on a mountain nine miles 
sstward. 

Tariffville is a little manufacturing- place several 
iles north of that spot, near a romantic scene on 
irmin^ton river, where it parses through the moun- 
in. Here is a carpet manufactory.] 

I Remarks to the Tbaveller at Hartford. 

I 

From Hartford there are stage coaches running in va- 
)us direction'? ; north, one on each side of Connecticut 
ver ; north-east, to Boston ; east, to Providence ; 
•dh, to New-Haven and New-York (besides the daily 
i!amboats to the latter place) ; 7i-est, to Litchfield 
id Poughkeepsie and north-'west to Albany. 
The road to Boston leads through Stafford Springs, 
Id Worcester, but is otherwise very uninteresting and 
( ite hilly. There are two routes to Boston, which 
Iparate at Tolland, and meet again 15 miles from that 
Ipital. On the new road, (which is shorter,) a coach 
|;es through every day — travelling from 3 A. M. till 

'^Stajford Springs, (26 miles from Hartford) is. in a 
[mantic region. Tolland 17 m. Springs 9, Stur- 
jidge 16, kc. 

The traveller in New-England is advised to take the 
ute up Connecticut river, which is the most fertile, 
salthy, and beautiful tract of the countiy ; and to re- 
rn by the way of Boston and Providence. This is 
3 route we propose to pursue ; but the traveller can 
ry from it as he pleases. He will find such informa- 
n as this little volume is able to afiford him, by refer- 
)g to the Index. 

The fertility of the meadows in the Connecticut Val- 
f is almost proverbial ; and after what the stranger 
3 seen of its banks at Middletown and Hartford, he 
ill learn with gratification that neither the soil nor the 
auty of the cultivation degenerates for several hun- 



2B8 R0UTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

dred miles northward. The whole country is thickly 
populated ; neat and beautiful villages are met with . 
at intervals of a few miles ; and the general intel- 
ligence derived from universal education gives an ele- 
vated aspect to society. The accommodations for' 
travellers are generally very comfortable, and some- 
times uncommonly good and elegant; the scenery is i 
ever new ;md varying ; many places have traits of in-^ 
terest in their history ; and the communic ition is easy," 
from many points of the route, with the principal places 
on the east and west Besides all this, the roads are pe- 
culiarly tine, for they are generally run .dong the river's 
bank, which is almost without exception level and plea- 
sant, and formed of a soil well fitted to the purpose. 

The western side of the river is generally to be pre- 
ferred; but as there are good roads on both sides, and^ 
some villages and other objects worthy of equal notice 
on the eastern shore, and good ferries or bridges are to' 
be met with every few miles, it will be agreeable oc- 
casionally to cross and recross. Those who travel 
along the course of the Connecticut twice, would doi 
well to go up on one side and return on the other.! 
This is the most direct route to the White Hills or 
White Mountains of New-Hampshire. 

The improvement of the navigation of Connecticut' 
river above Hartford has been seriously contemplated, 
on a combined system, and the legislatures of Vermont 
and Massachusetts have consented to a uniform plan. 
Several of the principal falls have been canalled and 
locked foe boats f ^r a number of years ; and they might]^ 
be made to serve on the line. The first part of the na- 
vigation (that is, from Hartford to Springfield and North- 
ampton) chiefly engages attention at present ; and it; 
is not improbable that the traveller will have an op- 
portunity to gratify himself with a pleasant passage in 
a steamboat even as far as the latter place in 1830. A 
canal has been made at Enfield Falls, 6 miles in length, 
in the bed of the river, with three locks, of a sufficient 
breadth to admit steam towboats. | 



I AMEiilCAN HIsTOniCAL bOCIETi. 2(3^ 

The Steamboat Blanchard, built at Springfield foi 
'this navigation, measures 30 tons, has two cabins and 
an engine of about 20 horse power. It draws scarcely a 
foot of water, but moves with such power that in 1828 
lit went up the falls at South Hadley at a rapid rate. 
The scenery on this route will be found very pleasing, 
; Those w ho go to Boston will pass through Worcester. 
i Worcester is one of the finest villages in New-Eng- 
land, llie Worcester Coal Mine, which is at a distance 
from the road, is likely to be worked to a considerable 
i extent. The vein is considered as connected with that 
bn Rhode Island. It is anthracite ; and if its quality 
'should justify the opinions which have been expressed, 
it cannot fail to prove highly valuable, both for home 
use and for transportation by the canal. There is a deep 
cut at the foot of the hill, leading to a horizontal shaft 
I iviiich has been carried in some distance. The country 
around it is rich and variegated, and the dwellings 
have an air of elegance which does great credit to the 
I taste as well as the wealth of its inhabitants. Brick 
is extensively used in building. Penknives are manu- 
factured here of fine quality. The courthouse, bank, 
fee. stand on the principal street; and east of it the 
:ounty house and the building of the 

American Historical Sooiety. 

This is an institution formed by Mr. Isaiah Thomas, 
many years a printer in this place, for the truly im- 
portant purpose of preserving every thing relating to 
the history, traditions, &c. of the country. He has 
made it a donation of his valuable library, between 7 
and 8000 volumes, with many files of news}japers ; and 
built at his own expense the handsome edifice in which 
it is deposited. Many interesting curiosities have also 
been collected here from all parts of the country, but 
the institution has not funds to support a keeper, and 
the cabinet has not (unless, perhaps, recently) been 
opened to the public. The building cost about $8000. 



270 EOUTE IP COXNECTICUT EIVEK. 

For the Blackstone Canal which connects this place 
with Providence, see Index. 

Sutton, Worcester Co. There is a remarkable chasm 
in the rocks in this place, at a distance from the road, 
which appears to have been produced by some tre- 
mendous convulsion in the earth. It appears like ai 
wild and broken ravine, half a mile long, enclosed oni 
each side by irregular walls of granite, rising to al 
height of about 115 feet perpendicular, and so near' 
as to threaten the visiter who explores the place be- 1 
Jow. The opening is only from 75 to 100 feet wide ;" 
and the opposite masses of rock correspond as if for-' 
cibly torn asunder, as they doubtless have been. On' 
the brow of one of the precipices is a mass of granite 
estimated to weigh 5000 tons. The depth is so great, 
and the shelter from the sun so entire in many places,' 
that ice may be found at almost any season of the year. 

Watchusett Hills, 16 miles W. N. W. of Worcester, 
and 52 VV. by N. of Boston, are estimated at nearly 
3000 feet above the sea, and ascended by an easy 
path. Tiie spectator looks down on a surrounding 
scene of wooded mountains, below which are ponds 
and farms, and a view over cultivated aud inhabited 
regions. 

[From Worcester to Leicester, 5 miles ; East Brook- 
field, 7 ; Brookfield, 3 ; War Factory Village, 5 ; 
Belchertown, 10 ; Northampton, 15.] 

Route up Connecticut River. 

Leaving Hartford, 

The State Arsenal* is seen on the right-hand, a mile 
from the city ; and many pleasant views are enjoyed. 

* The Qiiarrer-Master General reported that there were in the arse- 
nal, in J828, 48.57 muskets purchased by the state, together with 2927 
muskets and 150 rifles, with the proper accoutrenieiils, received from 
the United States. Accordhig to the last regular returns, thete were in 
the liands of the niiliiia, hut not owned by the state, upwards ol 13,00() ' 
muskets and rifles fit for service, which, with those in flie arsenal, at' 
jfrarly equal to the whole number of the infantry. ; 



SPKINSFIELO. 27 1 

[East Hartford, opposite Hartford, has a sandy soil, 
)ut the street, as well as that of East Windsor, next 
iiorth of it, is shaded with rows of fine elms. The road 
•crosses Poduiik Brook by a small bridge, about four 
Iniles from Hartford, on the north bank of which, on 
he lett-hand, was once the fort of the powerful tribe 
)f Podunk Indians, who had <heir sett'ements on this 
vindiiig stream, and some of their broken implements 
,\re occasionally found in the soil. The nation was so 
Dowerful, that Uncas, Sachem of the Mohicans, was 
i)nce daunted by the show of their force, although he 
jiad marched to attack them with his army, and after- 
A'ard chose to intimidate them by the following stra- 
agem : he sent one of his Indians to burn a Pequod 
vigwam, in the night, near the fort, who then fled, as 
[le was directed, leaving some Mohawk arms on the 
j ground. This made the Pequods believe that that 
lation had leagued with Uncas, according to an inti- 
I nation he had be tore given, and they immediately sued 
or peace. 

Bissel's tavern, 8 miles from Hartford. In going 
jo the ferry, the road passes the Bissel farm, one of 
.he finest in the country.] 

Windsor. 

It has been mentioned befor<> that this place was 
settled as early as 1635. A (ew months after the 
Juilding of the fort, ((»robably a blockhouse,) the 
Dutch garrison at Hartford made a secret march against 
t, expecting to take it by surprise ; but on arriving at 
he place they found reason to give up their enter- 
prise, and returned without firing a gun. The country 
was formerly very populous in Indians, the six square 
niles of which the town was formed, and which ex- 
tended on both sides of the river, containing ten sepa- 
rate sachemdoms, or petty Indian tribes. 

There is a school established in this town on the 
t'ellenberg plan, in which agriculture is taught both 



27^ l.OUTE UP CO]S'NECTICUr lilVER. 

theoretically and practically, a good farm adjoining it 
being open to the examination and experiments of the 
students. 

The seat of the late Chief Justice Oliver Ellsworth 
stands on the east side of the street, above the tow^n, , 
nine miles above Hartford. It is distinguished by co- 
lumns, and surrounded bj^ trees. He was born in a 
house opposite. He was in Europe as minister for the j 
United States to France. 

Alter turning a corner a little beyond this place, the 
new road runs north by a tavern, while the old one. j 
across a sand plain, keeps straight on. The former is 
recomniended, as it passes for several miles along the , 
bank of Connec icut River. 

Warehouse Point, in Entield, is seen on the east side. 
Here vessels are built, and the place carries on a little 
trade. There is a Shaker settlement of about 600 
persons, 5 or 6 miles from Enfield. Messrs. Andrews 
& Thompson's Carpet Manufactor}'^ is at Thomp- 
sonville. 

The Canal of 6 miles to pass the falls below this ! 
place, was spoken of at Hartford. 



SUFFIELD 

is a very pleasant town about a mile west of the road* 
and has a good inn, and a mineral spring in its vicinity^ 
which has been the resort of considerable company. 
The village street runs along the ridge of a long and ] 
beautiful hill, with neat houses and white fences on , 
both sides, and the home lots sloping east and west to- ( 
wards the low ground. Some of the houses are large i 
and elegant. 

Suffield Springs. About a mile south-west of the 
street is a mineral spring of slightly sulphureous qua- i 
Hties. A house has been built there about 20 yearSr 
'vhich has accommodations for 50 persons, with bath? 
•-^f djfl'erent descriptions. The spring; is in swampy 



SmilN till ELD. Svf 

and, and its qualities are considered valuable, par- 
icularly in cases of cutaneous disorders. The place 
s pleasant, in the midst of a rich rural scene, with a 
3retty flower garden, &c. calculated to render it an 
igreeable resort, which it will, no doubt, in due time 
Decome. 

If it is intended to stop for the night within a few 
niles, the best inn is the Columbian Hotel, at Spring- 
ield, on the east side of the river. To reach it in 
^oing north, turn off to the right through the meadows? 
•ome time atter passing Westfield River, which will 
lead directly to the Springtield bridge. This is sub- 
itantially built, and well protected by a roof. 

Spritsgfield, 

iJoJumhian Hotel. Stage coaches run north, south, 
ind to Boston and Albany. 

< i'his is a flourishing town, standing at the foot of a 
iiigh hill, the side of which is ornamented with fine 
[)ui!dings, the residences of some of the wealthier in- 
jiabitants, and the top occupied by the United States' 
Armory. This establishment occupies a large space 
if ground, and commands a fine view. The build- 
ings containing the workshops tor manufacturing small 
;)rm?, the arsenal, barracks, &c. are surrounded by a 
jiigh wall ; and the habitations of the workmen, seen 
n several neighbouring streets, are generally neat 
louses with small gardens. Some of the principal 
)uildini:s within the wails were burnt about four years^ 
jgo, but have since been rebuilt, viz. three buildings, 
>ach 120 feet long, one of which is a store house of 
irnis. Access may be obtained ; but here is not room 
.0 give a particular description of the establishment, 
which bears a general resemblance to others of this 
kind in the country, although it is the largest in size. 
The number of workmen required, which is about 
260, has a favourable effect on the business and pros- 
perity of the place. About 13.000 muskets are raad^; 



274 KOUTiJ Li* CONNECTICUT KIVER. 

here annually, or 60 a day. There were manufactured ] 
here, in 1829, 16,500 muskets. Expenditure, g 190,000, ' 
including repairs, &c. The average cost of a musket . 
is now glO 66. Since the establishment was formed, ; 
in 1795, 296,989 muskets have been tnanufacturedj 
The manufactories on Mill river, a iiitle south of the j 
armory, are various and well worthy of observation, at | 
least, in passing. A road that runs along the bank,'! 
passes a number of flour mills, &c. belonging to indi-| 
viduals, besides the Upper, Middle, and Lower Water] 
Shops, connected with the aruiory. There are three I 
dams of hewn stone, and the buildings, in plan andi 
construction, are well calculated for service and dura- 
bility. The water shops contain in all 18 water 
wheels, 10 trip hammers, 28 forges, 9 coal houses, ; 
and have connected with them several houses andi 
stores. 

The town is ornamented with many fine elms and 
other trees; and there are two very handsome! 
churches, a High School, &,c. It was origina ly con- 
sidered within the limits of Connecticut Colony, but 
at length incorporated with Massachusetts. A tribe 
of Indians lived for some years on Fort Hill ; but 
being won over to King Philip's party, in 1675, they 
assuuied a hostile air, tired upon some of the inhabit- 
ants who were going to tljeir tort, and burnt a part of| 
the town. 

in 1786, during the rebellion of ^'hays, he attacked 
the armory, at the head of a strong party of undisci- 
plined men. Gen. Shepard, who had command at the.' 
place, attempted to dissuade them from their attempt j 
and finally drove them off by firing twice. The first 
shot, over their heads, dispersed the raw troops, and 
the secuiid drove off the remainder, who, being about 
500 revolutionary soldiers, did not desist until they had 
lost a few of their men. This was the first check the 
insurrection received, which was put down w'thout 
much subsequent trouble. 

Snrinsrfield Factory Village is a new and very ex 



I SOUTH HADLEY F^iLLS. 2/6 

c tensive manufacturing place. It is on the Chicopee 

,1 River, and a stage coach passes through it every other 

tday, on the road to Belcherlonn. The capital em- 

,; ployed here in 1828 was *>^500,000. The buildings 
brick, 2 stories, and about 9000 yards of cotton were 
made daily in all. 

; Wilbraham, 7 or 8 miles west from Springfield, con- 
tains a Wesley an Academy. The pupils are instructed 
in agriculture on a farm, and in the mechanic arts in 
a. shop, belonging to the institution. There are 

llteachers in various branches of literature, science, and 

|the arts. 

West Springfield has a fine street, shaded with large 

:elms, and containing some handsome houses. It is 26 
miles from Harttord, and about 17 miles from North- 

lampton. There is a fine vie • from the road on the 
brow of a hill a little noith of the town, near a church, 
which overlooks the river and an extent of country on 

leach side, with Mounts Tom and Holyoke in front. 

South Haduey Falls. 

The village and locks are on the east side of the 
river. 

The whole fall of the river at South Hadley is 52 
feet, but at the lower falls only 32. There is a canal 
2r, miles long on the bank of the river, cut through 
a slate rock for a considerable distance, and in some 
places very deep. The dam is 8 feet high. There 
are five locks near the tavern, nnd one above. The 
toll here is 90 cents. There is a ferry here, which is 
safe, hut the water runs very swiftly. 

For "-everal miles before reaching Mount Tom, the 
road runs along the bank of the river, showing its banks, 
in many places, rousi-hened with rocks. Its channel is 
in one place crossed by the dam, which turns the water 
into the South Hadley Canal. The river makes an 
abrupt turn some miles above, running between Mount 
Tom on the south and Mount Holyoke on the north ; 



276 ROUTE UP CONr^ECTICUT KIVER. 

and when the scene opens again, it discloses a chartiv 
ing and extensive plain, formed of the meadows on 
the river's bank, and evidently once the site of a 
large lake, when the water was restrained by the bar- 
rier between the mountains. This plain is one of the ' 
richest, and by far the most extensive and beautiful on ' 
the river. 

Northampton. 

Hotels. There is a splendid hotel here. Warner 
also keeps a very good house. 

This town is situated at the west side of the plain, 
a mile from the river, and is a favourite place of re- 
sort for travellers ; as it is one of the most beautiful 
of the New-England villages, and is surrounded by a 
charming country, and lies near to Mount Holyoke, 
which commands a view of the whole. The streets 
are irregular, but some of them shady and delightful 
in summer, being also ornamented with many neat 
houses It is a place of considerable business ; and 
the soil makes valuable farms.* 

Round Hill is a beautiful eminence just west of the 
town, where is the school of Messrs. Cogswell and 
Bancroft, for the education of boys. The branches of 
learning taught there are numerous, and there are in- 
structers for the French, Spanish, and German lan- 
guages. Great attention is paid to the hours of recre- 
ation as well as of study, and the pupils are rarely to 
be seen out of the precincts of the school. The place 



* Canal.— "Sir. Kurd's esiiniaie of the whole expense of the Hampshire 
and Hampden Canal is given as follows: 

Canal $204,210 

Feed«'rs, 44^856 

Cost ol' lands and contingent expense, . 18,500 

Total expense, $-267,566 | 

The longfli of (he canal is 29^ miles, divided into 56 sections of MS 
jiods each. When finish'^fl it will be particularly described in a futiiro 



SOLiliAMrruX LEAD MIMi. 2ti 

; itself is very plensant : commanding- fine air, fine 
I scenes, and perfect retirement. 

; On tlie eastern declivity of the hill stands the house 
!of the Stoddard family, an ancestor of which was a 
I man of great talents and influence in this part of the 
country. On the east side of the main street, just 
south of the brook, is the house of the late Governor 
: Strong. 

There is a large Button Manufactory in this vi- 
cinity. 

I The Lead Mine. 

I 

In Southampton, at the distance of 8 miles from this 
■place, is a lead mine, which will be regarded with in- 
' terest by the curious and scientific. A considerable 
jpart of the road to it is good, and the place is wild 
and rough. The following extract from the Journal 
of Science and the Arts, furnishes all necessary in- 
formation on the subject. 

"This vein declines 10 or 15 degrees from a per- 
pendicular, is 6 or 8 feet in diameter, and traverses 
granite and other primitive rocks. It has been ob- 
served at intervals fi'om Montgomery to Hatfield, a 
! distance of 20 miles. In Southampton it has beenex- 
I plored many rods in length, to the depth of 40 or 50 
I leet ; and the galena, which is the principal ore, has 
been found in masses from a quarter of an inch to a 
, foot in diameter. At the depth above mentioned, the 
\ water became so abundant that it v\as thought advis- 
' able to abandon a perpendicular exploration, and to 
'descend to the foot of a hill on the east, nearly 80 
! rods rom the vein, and attempt a horizontal drift, or 
I adit ; and ever since its commencement, seven or eight 
' years ago, the working of the vein has ceased. The 
rocks that have been penetrated, reckoning from the 
mouth of the drift inwards, are geest, the red and gray 
slates of the coal formation, with thin beds of coal- 
and mica slate, and granite, alternatinsr. 
Aa2 



fi78 liOUTE UP CONNECTICLT KIVEK. 

The mouth of this drift is 4 or 5 feet wide, and 
about 3 feet above the surface of the water. The 
water is deep enough, the whole length of it, to admit 
the passage of a loaded boat. The person wishing 
to explore this internal canal, must fire a gun at the 
entrance, or beat heavily with a sledge on the timbers 
that support the soil ; in 10 or 15 minutes, he will per- 
ceive a gentle undulation of the water, and soon after, 
a boat advancing with lighted lamps and a rower; 
having seated himself on the bottom of this boat, and' 
provided himself with an additional garment, he is 
prepared tor his subterranean expedition. If he looks 
back, after having advanced several hundred feet, the 
light at the entrance will appear diminished to thel 
size of a candle ; and before he reaches the extremity, 
it becomes invisible. About half way from the en- 
trance to the end of the drift, he will pass a shaft,, 
down which a small brook is turned, for the purpose i 
of aiding the ventilator. 

The miners do not quit the drift when they blast, 
but retire behind a breastwork thrown up for the 
purpose. One man has been an inmate of that dark 
recess eight or ten years without suffering in his health. 

Every mineralogist passing that way, will of course 
visit the drift. Intelligent gentlemen, with -ut profes- 
sional views, and even ladies, not untrequently enter 
the cavity." 

Mount Holyoke. 

The ascent of this mountain has become very fash- 
ionable, perhaps more so than any siniilar enterprise 
in this country, if we except that of the Catskill Moun- 
tains in New- York. The height is said to be 800 
feet ; and there is a good carriage road the greater 
part of the way up, as well as a building of consider- 
able size on the summit, for the accommodation of 
visiters, who resort thither every season, usuaJiy in 
partief?. 

I 



MOU:>fT HOLYOKE, 279 

There is a short road through the meadows, directly 
to Lyman's ferry, at the foot of the mountain, which 
is furnished with a good horse-boat. But it may be 
bund pleasanter to cross the bridge at the upper end 
3f the town, f)ass throu^rh Hadley Meadows, and down 
m the eastern bank. The path up the mountain turns 
)flf near a small old house, and another opposite the 
:avern near the ferry. After following the latter to its 
ermination, you dismount, secure your horses to the 
:rees, and walk up a rude stone staircase on the right. 
Refreshments will be found at the house which occu- 
i)ies the summit ; and which opens on both sides, in 
ijuch a manner as to command an uninterrupted view 
)f the rich and varied landscape below. Those who 
vish to enjoy the luxury of seeing day break and the 
un rise over such a scene, may find a shelter here for 
he night. There was a remarkable flood in the river, 
21 feet,) in the autumn of 1828, which destroyed bulld- 
ogs, crops, &c. to an unprecedented extent. 
i South-east, the view is less interesting, and may 
jherefore be first examined. The country is undu- 
'ating, and the soil generally poor; yet several vil- 
ayres are discovered at a distance, particularly South 
liadley, which lies immediately below. Southwardly 
s seen Connecticut river, retiiing under the shade of 
iMount Tom, whitened f)elovv tjy the South Hadley 
Falls; beyond which is the hill at Springfield. The 
'iver makes several turns, and on the horizon are two 
t/^ery distant peaks, which are supposed to be East and 
West Rocks, at New- Haven, about 70 miles distant. 

North-east is seen Monadnoc Mountain in New- 
Hampshire ; and the view towards the east is inter- 
"upted by the neighbouring peaks of Mount Holyoke. 

North, you look up the charming valley of the Con- 
lecticut ; bordered by distant ranges of hills and moun- 
tains, varied by a few isolated peaks, covered with the 
lichest coat of vegetation, and scattered with villages 
and innumerable farm houses. The river makes a 
beautiful serpentine course ; from where it first ap- 



21)0 ROUTE IP COA.^KCTICLT illVilll. 

pears at the foot of Sugar Loaf Mountain, and Mount 
Toby,* until it reaches the village of Hadley, which 
lies in full view ; and then taking a bold svveep to the 
west, and flowing 4| miles, it returns to the end of 
the street, only a mile distant from where it first 
meets it. The whole peninsula is rich and tertile, and 
covered with cuhivated fields of wheat, corn, groSS, 
&c. wiihout being disfigured by fences, according to 
the custom prevalent here:dx)uts ; and is the richest 
sight upon the river, particularly when viewed in con- 
nexion with the scene immediately below, where the 
river flows on, almost immediatel}^ under our (eet, and 
the western shore presents the extensive Northamp- 
ton Mea ovvs, a mile wide. Following the current 
with the eye, in the 

West-soutk-i:i'esU it forms a still more remark,<ble pe* 
ni^isula, although one of inferior size : the Hockanum i 
B€7id being a turn measuring 3; miles in circuit, while 
the isthrrms is only 46 rods across, or 150 yards. In ; 
the C':mp;*ss of this view, rou) the north to the west 
and south, numerous village spires are seen, with level 
fields, orchards, and gardens, almost without number; ■ 
an ! the whole scene is so boundeil with mountainous 
ridges, as to seem to justify the opinion of geologists, i 
who say that it was once covered with an extensive ji 
lake, until the water lorced a passage between Mounts ' 
Tom and Holyoke. ] 

Northampton is seen about west-north-west, with ] 
Round Hill ; and towards the right, the top of Saddle j 
Mountain, in the distance. There are also others still j 
further north, particularly Haystack and Bare Moun- 
tain. 

More than 30 church steeples may be counted here 
by taking advantage of different kinds of weather. 



♦ In this mountain, at a place Sniilts north-east of Sunderland village 
is a remarkable cavern, running through the mountain. It is 12 rods long, 
C5 feet deep, and from 2 to 20 ("eet wide. There is a mass of piidding 
stone on each side, which appear as if they had been rent apart. There 
is an opening at the top. A small cave opens near by it, 45 feet deep, 10 
^vide, and 130 long. 



-^lOUNT HOLIOKE. i^S I 

» In point of history that part of the Connecticut 
fV^alley immediately under the eye belongs to the 
;.hird division of settlements, calling' Plymouth and 
[Massachusetts Bay the tirst ; Windsor, Hartford, 
iiWethersfield, &c., the second. Northampton, Had- 
i€y, and Hatfield were settled in 1653, and remained 
;he frontier posts in this direction till after Philip's 
^var, during which they suffered severely from constant 
ilarms, and the loss of inhabitants. The Indians who 
-lad sold the land on which the towns were built, had 
;ach a spot assigned them within a short distance of 
^he palisades with which the new settlements were 
'Jurrounded, and lived in peace and good faith until 
.'jxcited by Philip; after which all the towns were at 
iifferent times attacked by them, and some of them 
•i'epeatedly. During the French wars, on May 13th, 
iil704, the Indians fell upon a little settlement at the 
root of Mount Tom, and killed 20 persons, more than 
ilialf of whom were children; and a tradition states, 
{hough without designating the precise time, that a 
);aptive woman was once brought to the top of the 
mountain where we stand, and scalped. 

Hadley was attacked by the Indians while the in- 
liabitants were at church, and was near falling into 
'heir hands, when a stranger, a venerable old man, 
inade his appearance, and by his active resistance, 
|;ncouraged them to repel the enemy. It was not 
|:novvn at the time who he was, or whither he went ; 
)ut there is now little doubt that he was Goffe, one of 
ving Charles's judges, who was secreted for a length of 
ime in this town, and of whom we have already had 
)Ccasion to speak at New-Haven. The remains of 
lis coffin, it is believed, were discovered a few years 
ince, in the cellar wall of a house near the present 
academy, which was formerly inhabited by one of his 
.riends. The Burning of Deerfield, we shall speak 
Df on arriving at that town. 

Stage coaches run to Boston and Albany in a day ; 
-ind UT3 and down the river dailv« 



'2s2 route ip connecticut rivek 

Hadley, 

3 miles. (See the preceding page.) 
Hatfield, 

One mile further, on the west side of the river. 
This town is snuch devoted to the wintering; of cattle 
raised on the neip^hbouring hilly country. The grass 
is very fine, nnd the barns nre laroej which, with the 
appearance of the houses, give the pl^ce an air ot 
substantial cigfrirullural wealth. The cattle are bought, 
stabled, and fatted. 

Amherst 

is situated on elevated ground, five miles from Hadley ; | 
and off the river towards the north-east. i 

Amherst College. — Ail hough ol recent institution, this 
ranks among the most respectable in New-England. 
The situation occupied by the buildings is delightful, 
commanding a rich,«,'Xtensive, and varieJ view, partly 
over the meadows of Connecticut river, with moun- 
tains particularly mentioned a few pages back, seen 
in differf^nt directions. The retired situation is highly 
favourable to study and good order, as its elev.'4ion 
and pure air are conducive to health. It contained 
152 students in 1P>26 ; the number who graduated in 
18-28^ Wis 40; and the sludPHts, in 1829, were 211. The 
president, Dt. Ilumi'li e-. is mIso proi'essor of mental 
and moral Philosophy and Divinity. There are six 
other protessors, and a teacher of French arid Spanish, 
a teacher of mathematics, and a tutor of Latin and 
Greek. A gymnastic apparatus has lately been 
added. 

The Amherst Academy is a large private establish- 
ment for the education of boys. It is about three ! 



DLE.sii'lELh. 233 

miles distant; the building is elegant, the instructers 
are of a high character, and the system is formed on 
the improved principle. The i^odern Greek pronun- 
ciation has been adopted here for the ancient language, 
under the instruction of Mr. Perdicari, a Grecian by 
birth ; and this judicious example it is hoped may be 
followed in other institutions. 

The Sugar Loaf is an isolated hill of a conical 
form, rising in front as we proceed. A fine view is 
enjoyed from the summit, where has recently been 
^erected a house for visiters. Deertield lies n6rth of it 
Ubout three miles ; and the way by which we approach 
it, lies nearly along the old road which led thither 
through the wilderness, in 1675, when it was deserted 
by the settlers, and Capt. Lothrop was despatched, 
with a body of 80 soldiers and wagoners, to bring off 
the grain. At the foot of this mountain is the small 
village of Bloody Brook, (improperly called Muddy 
i Brook,) and near the spot where a bridge crosses the 
; stream, Capt. Lothrop was ambushed by about 800 
{ Indians. The place was then a marshy piece of 
ground; and some traces of the road, which was 
I formed of logs, are stili to be seen, running thn^ugh 
! the fields without crossing at the bridge. The convoy 
halted at this place ; and the soldiers were generally 
engaged in gathering grapes from t)ie vines which ran 
on the trees, having left their muskets on the ground, 
when the Indians tired upon them. Capt. Lothrop 
gave orders that the men should disperse, ^nii fire 
from behind the trees; but they were all cut off except 
8 or 10. This massacre was one of the most calami- 
tous which ever occurred in New-England, taken into 
view with the small number of inhabitants at the 
time : as the company consisted of young m.en from 
the principal families in the eastern towns. There is 
a stone now lying near the fence, west of the brook, 
which was brought there some years since for a monu- 
ment, but not raised. 
That part of the meadow we pass through in ap 



284 SOTJTE IP COKKECTICnT RIVliR. 

preaching Deerfield was the scene of several skir- 
mishes wiJh the Indians at different limes, as the place 
was a frontier for nnany years, although it was twice 
burned and deserted. 

Deerfield. 

In 1704, which was the period of its last destructiop' 
a large body ot" Indians, led on by a few Frenchmen^ 
from Canada, came upon the town before dayiighto ' 
It was winter, and the snow crust was strong enough* 
to bear them ; they had secreted themselveson a hill * 
north-west from Deerfield, and sent in a scout. The 
houses were all entered but one, the inhabitants made 
captives, and all, except a few, taken off to Canada- 
One of the houses is standing at this day, a little north i 
of the church ; and the hole may still be seen in the I 
door, which the Indians hacked with their tomahawks. 1 
and then fired through, as well as the marks of several ; 
bullets in the eastern room, one of which went through' 
the neck of a woman and killed her. A young man: 
and his bride leaped from a window of the chamber 
above; and thouuh the latter v/as unable to walk, in 
consequence o! spraining her ancle, the former filed, ati 
her urgent request, and, meeting with some troops on; 
his way, brought them up in time to drive off the In i 
dians, but not lo retake any of the captives. ' 

A house next this was valiantly defended by seven' 
men ; and the dwelling of Mr. Williams, the minister. 
was taken, and he and his family carried to Canada. 
Most of the people were ransomed ; but a daughter of 
Mr. W. became attached to the savage life, married ? 
chief, and left children. Mr. Vv illiams, missionary to 
the Indians at Green Bay, was one of her descendants. 

Some marks of the old picket may be traced in the 
rear of the house, which is supposed to present the 
same appearance as in old time, excepting that thf; 
kitchen, &c. have since been built, and the front and ' 
rear have been coverer^ 



There is an acadeiny in this town, but it is not in a 
very flourishing: condition. 

East from this place, are several spurs projecting 
from the hill, on one of which was formerly a fort, 
for the protection of the Deerfield Indians against the 
Mohawks. 

Greenjield, 3 miles. Here the stage coach passes 
on a road from Boston to Albany. The countiy west 
is highly picturesque. Just south of the town, Deer- 
field river appears to have at some period formed a 
Jake of some extent, with an outlet towards the east,, 
where its channel may be seen, with the place of an 
old cascade, and the rocks bored out by the rushing of 
the water. The channel now lies through a deep cut 
between two hills. A High School, for young ladies, 
was established here in 1828. ^ 

Turner's Falls are on Connecticut river, two or 
three miles east from Greenfield. It is necessary to 
leave the road to see them ; but they are of consider- 
able height and beauty, and history has rendered the 
place memorable, from an important battle fought 
there towards the close of Philip's war. 1 he way by 
which we approach is nearly over the same ground, 
.where Capt. Turner marched, with his body of meUy 
in the year 1676, when he went to attack a large body 
of Indians, assembled at an Indian fort, a quarter of a 
aiile above the falls ; and by which he also returned, 
ifter a successful battle, pursued by his surviving 
Iniemies. 

Philip, having been driven from the seacoast and 
he neighbourhood of the English settlements, by the 
active operations of Capt. Church, Capt. Mosely, Capt. 
«Vheeler, &c., retired with some of his followers to 
he Northlield Indians, who held a position on a sandy 
iill, on the north bank of the river. Here he was 
ttacked in the night by the troops under Capt. Tur- 
ner. The English left their horses on a hill, which 
f' descends to a brook emptying into the Connecticut 
elow the falls: and having moimtcd the oppo^i'*^. 



^86 BObTE tF CONNECTICUT RIVEIi. 

bank, pFoceeded near where the present road leads, 
and marched up the sandy hill. The place has a 
swamp on two :-ides, and the river on the fourth. It 
is, indeed, overtopped by neighbouring hills ; but 
cannon, of course, were out of the question in such a 
warfare. The Indians had held a feast that night, as 
some of their captives afterward reported, and were 
generally asleep, so that the attack of the white nien 
gave them a panic, and they fled to their boats, which 
they launclied in such haste, that many forgot their 
paddles, and were carried over the falls. The rest,' 
however, rallied before their enemies were out of 
their reach, and being joined by some from the island; 
below the falls, pursued and harassed them about ten' 
miles, to Deeifield. Bones are occasionally dug up| 
near the spot, and a few years ago the remains of an' 
old musket, a few silver coins, &,c. were discovered! 
among the rocks. ^ 

This was the last and most severe blow Philip re-? 
ceived, before he returned to his native country in; 
Rhode I-land, where he soon after terminated hi:^ 
dangerous life, and the war, which brought so many* 
calamities upon New-Endand. 'i 

Tlie Canal. — A dam oigreat height is built at the* 
falls, to supply a canal, which extends two or thret^ 
miles for boats and rafts. Some mills are also e?jta' 
blished on the river's bank. The fall is divided b>' 
two rude rocks, between which the water rushes in 
separate cataracts; and the scenery below is wild 
and not a little imposing. This is part of the New 
Haven Greenstone range, and there aie two veins o, 
copper in the mountain : specimens of coal have beeH 
found. There is, however, no inn nearer than Green^ 
field.] 

Bernardston, 8 miles from Greenfield. 

Vernon. — Within the limits of this township, whici 

is the first in Vermont, was once Fort Drummer, od 

of a chain of forts, built for the protection of thj 

^country against the Canadian Indians. The place fo 



WALFOLE. '2^^ 

-onie years was known on the river, by the name of 
i^umber One, being tlie first of four townships. 

Passing through a pretty village, with several mills, 
ifter a few miles we approach Brattleborough, south 
)f which, east of the road, is a quarry, which furnishes 
\ large qtiantity of slate ; where may be seen the 
node of quarrying, splitting, shaping, and packing it 
"or transportation. 

Brattleborough is a very pleasant village, situated 
in an elevated pi in above the river, which, since the 
draining of the old lake in this place, has made two 
)r three successive arches north of the town, as it has 
rradually lowered its channel to the present level. 
At the bridge, over a smab stream, are several manu- 
actories ; and in the village is a large and comfortable 
itage house, whence coaches go to Boston, as well as 
vest, north, an i south. 

; Westminster. — This is on a fine, extensive level ; and 
jin the high land, o ) the opposite side of th*- river, is 
I Walpole. — Connecticut river being the dividing; line 
iietween the two adjacent states, Walpole is in New- 
lampshire. The situation is very commanding, and 
jhe summit of the hill, above the village, affords a view 
If unusual extent and beauty. There is a spacious 
;nd well-kept inn at Walpole ; and stage coaches go 
jence to Boston, &c. It will be found the best place 
p stop at between Brattleborough nd Charlestown. 
I Three miles north is the farm of Col. Bellows, 

rhich contains 700 acres. The house of the propri- 
Itor enjoys a fine situation on a ridge rising from the 
iieadow, near wh«-re siood the fort erected by Col. 
j»eIlows, when, about the middle of the last century, 

le place was occup'ed and a settlement begun under 

le name of Township No. 3. 
1 The changes which have taken place in the channel 

f the; river, in the course of ages, are very manifest 
i 1 passing along this part of its course, particularly by 

ie western bank ; in one place, which is now perhaps 

00 feet above the present level of the water, tbf" 



28U ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT EiVER. 

current appears once lo have flowed, and to have 
formed the cataract, which has now retired a mile or 
mori- to the north. 

BelIozvs''s Falls. — The heig^ht of this fall is inconside- 
rable, but it is, on he whole, a striking; o ject ; sur- 
rounded by rocky banks, and having an abrupt moun- 
tain on the eristern side. The place has also been 
much ornamentr d by art ; for, besides the village, with 
its neat white houses and hand-ome church, a canal 
has been dug round the falls, a bridge thrown over 
them, and the rugged side of the mountain decorated j 
with a handsome country seat. , 

The rocks are of the most firm and solid gray gra- , 
nite, but are much cut by the force of the current. In 
some places holes have been bored into them perpen- i 
dicularly, two or three feet in diameter, and 12 or even | 
18 feet deep. This is done by the motion given to y 
loose stones by the eddies of the stream, and the gra- i 
dual enlargement of the bore sometimes breaks off | 
great masses of the rock. These falls were once the i^ 
favourite resort of Indians during the fishing season. 
On the rock just below the bridge are some remains 
of their rude attempts at sculpture, which represent 
the form of human faces ; and from one on the end of ] 
the stone, whici appears to have suffered less trom the 
attrition of the floods, it would seem as if they might 
once have been more finished specimens of sculpture 
than hey now appear, as that presents considerable 
prominency and beau y of execution. 

The Hunt Farm is about 3^ miles from the falls, 
and is a Urge and valuable estate, the meadows being 
rich and beautiful in the extreme. The house and 
other bui dings are large; but the establishment is 
not conducted on such a plan as would gratify an agri- 
culturist. 

Charlestown. —Th\s is one of the prettiest little vil- 
lages in New-England : having a wide street, parti) 
shaded with trees, and lined with neat houses, many 

I 



AVINDSOK. J 819* 

oi which speak the taste, as well as the easy circum- 
stances, of their proprietors. 

This was called Township No. 4. The fort, built 
for the defence of the place in 1743, stood on the 
gently rising ground a little south of the chur< h, where 
the street runs : but not a vestige of it is to be disco- 
vered. It was most gallantly deiended by Capt. Ste- 
vens, in 1747, against a large number of French and 
Indians : although repeatedly called upon to suirender, 
the garrison persisted in the defence, digging into the 
ground to shelter theT^selves from the enemy's fire, 
and, after several days, succeeded in driving them 
away. Capt. S. received a sword for his bravery. 

Jarvis^ Farm at Wethersfield Bow, on the west 
side of the river, is very extensive, and contains a 
number of large buildings for dwelling.^, barns, stables, 
he, principally of brick. The land is generally 
, fenced with the roots of pine trees, dragged from the 
'ground, by which the soil is rendered fit tor imnnediate 
i cultivation, and unencumbered. The proprietor of 
this farm is also the possessor of a large part of the 
township besides, and is very wealthy. 

The roid beyond affords some romantic scenes. 
[The hills approach the river very nearly, and several 
iviews are caught between them, of the mountain 
I behind Windsor, which is about 2000 feet in height, 
I and divided into three peaks, whence, it is said, it 
derived the name of Ascutney, which, in the Indian 
I language, means three brothers. 

WINDSOR 

k a fine and flourishing town, in a very picturesque 
situation, particularly when viewed from the opposite 
side of the river ; and contains a good stage house, 
kept by Pettes, a number of stores, some elegant 
houses, two or three handsome churches, and the 
State Prison. 
This latter building is of granite, on the hill in the 
B b 2 



290 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVEK. 

western part of the town. It is planned after the old 
and ill-devised system, (see pages 123 and 263,) but 
has one thing in its construction worthy of imitation : 
the stones are secured against removal, by having six- 
pound ctnnon shot placed between them, holes being 
cut into the stones lo receive them. In 1828, there 
were 123 convicts, who reimbursed, chiefly by weaving, 
nearly all the expenses. It is to be enlarged. 

Mount Ascutneu. — A great part of the way up this 
mountain a road has been cut, and the traveller will be 
richly rewarded for the labour of his ascent. From 
the nature of the soil, he cannot, indeed, expect to 
behold a scene like that from Moufst Holyoke ; but 
there is a great deal (hat is fine in the appearance of 
the surrounding country, rough, and interspersed with 
villages and cultivated tracts, with the Connecticut 
winding through it. 

Sumner's bridge, four miles above, was injured by 
the great flood of 1828. 

The Gulf Road. 

Those who are going westward from this part of 
the river, are counselled to take the Gulf Road !o 
Burlington, on Lake Champlain, to which a stage 
coach runs. Although the route is through the chain 
of the Green Mountains, the way is remarkably smooth 
and easy, followins: the courses of the White and On- 
ion rivers, which have cut deep channels through the 
rocks. You have, however, first to go 16 miles along 
the western bank of the Connecticut to 

White River. — Here great quantities of lumber are 
brought down, sawed on the stream, and sent by the 
Connecticut in rafts to the country below. Dartmouth 
College, at Hanover, is five miles north, and those who 
are going to the White Mountains, will of course 
pursue that route (see p. 294) ; but the following de- 
viation is made for those who are going to Lake 
Champlain. 



I THE GILF ROAD, 291 

i'he road up the White River lies along the north 
bank, and passes through several beautiful and flourish- 
ing villa2:es. The valley, though narrow, is formed of 
: the richest soil, and wears the same aspect, in form, 
i fertility, and population, with the meadows of the 
Connecticut. This was one of the courses formerly 
, chosen by the Indians of the north in their commerce 
iwith those on the borders of that river, before the 
arrival of Europeans; and, with the exception of a 
short portage, between the White and Onion rivers, 
I they brought their furs from Canada by water. Du- 
iring the Indian and French wars, this route was fre- 
quently used for m >re hostile purposes ; and captives 
were taken from these settlements so late as the Revo- 
lutionary war. The scenery is interesting and various 
lall along the route. 

Royalton, a pretty village. This place was burned, 
I Oct. 16th, 1781, by 300 men, principally Indians, who 
jeame down from Canada. They killed two men and 
took away six prisoners to Montreal. 
I Randolph is considered one of the most beautiful 
j towns in Vermont, and a stage coach likewise passes 
that way. 

j Gulf. — The entrance of this remarkable passage 

.noin the east, is under the brow of an abrupt moun- 

|tain, whe»e a branch of White River flows along by 

('he road in a gentle current, quite inadequate in its 

I present condition to such effiects as it has produced at 

1 5ome former period, in parting this enormous barrier. 

^It was not, however, by the gradual action of a di- 

ininutive stream like this, even when increased by the 

mnual floods, that such changes were made ; but by 

he pressure of a lake confinci among the mountains, 

»vhich here first found a channel. 

The Gulf road extends 6 miles, and the ground is 
♦i ^o level that it has been proposed to make it the course 
1 5f a c.mal. On the height of land is a pond, from 
I vvhich flows a stream into the vaHey. Part of it joins 
fihe White River, and part the Onion Ri?er. 



'i"^^ ROtTE UP CONKECriCllT RIVER, 

Montpelier is the capital of Vermont, and a very 
pretty town. It contains the State House, a Court 
House, an Academy, and other public buildings.* 

A survey has lately been completed, of Onion River, 
from Lake Champlain, at Burlingjton, to Montpelier, a 
distance of 38 miles. It is ascctained that a canal 
may be made on three levels, the amount of fall at 
three points bein^ 394 feet. The height of Lake 
Champlain above the Hudson river, at Albany, is 86 
feet. The elevation from Montpelier towards the 
Connecticut River, to Onion River Pond, was found 
to be 877 feet, and the fall thence to the mouth of 
Wells River on the Connecticut, 918 feet, making the 
Tivhole lockage from Lake Champlain to the Connecti- 
cut 2189 feet. By another route through Dog River, 
where there is a less abundant supply of water, and 
White River, to the mouth of the latter, the lockage 
is 1468 feet. 

From Montpelier to Burlington, the road pursues 
the course of Onion River nearly the whole distance, 
and aflfords a succession of hilly and mountainous sce- 
nery, such as is characteristic of the state. The river 
is in many places smooth and gentle, though occa- 
sionally interrupted by falls and rapids. 

* History of the Staff.— The first discovery of Vermont was made in l 
1609, by Samuel Champlain, who, after establishing a colony at Q.uebec, 
proceedinc up the rivers St. Lawrence and Sorel, explored and gave his 
©wn name to the lake h hich washes the western part of the slate. In i 
J724, the 2overnn)ent of Massachusetts erected Fort Dumnier, in the i 
town of Bratlkborough, on Connecticut river. The first settlement in 
the western part of the slate was commenced by the French in 1731, in | 
the town of Addison, and at the same lime they erected a fort at Crown 
Point. The government of New Hampshire began to make grants of 
townships within the present limits of Vermont in 1749, at which time ! 
the settlement of Bennineton was commenced, and at the same time a 
violent controversy ensued between the New Hampshire grants and the 
province of New-York. The first convention of the state met at Dor- 
set, in 1776, and the first constitution was ad()[)ted by a convention as 
eembled at Windsor in July, 1777, but tlie organization of tiie govern- 
ment did not take place until March, 1778. 

The difficulties between Vermont and New- York were amicably, set 
♦led in 1790, and the next year she was admitted into the confederacy ol 
the states. 

In April, 18Q8, there were ten banks in Vermont, with .$949,844 in cir- 1 
culation in notes. t 



\ iiaaover. 2i>3 

On t}>c road iVom Montpelier ai'c two rcinarkable 
Water Falls, in the Onion River. They are so near 
the road that they will be heard in passing", and seen 
jby taking a few steps. The Upper Fall is in the midst 
of a wild scene, the water pouring over broken rocks, 
between two high and perpendicular banks. The 
[Lo-jver Fall is of a peculiar character : the stream is 
broken into foam, and rushes with great rapidity ; yet 
the channel is obstructed in such a manner by several 
large rocks, that the stream is turned alternately from 
i side to side, being dashed with violence against their ba- 
ses and thus forced into a zig zag course. A few miles 
before reaching Burlington, the road leaves the river, 
which bends away further towards the north. At its 
, mouth is an extensive and fertile meadow, which may 
'bear a comparison with those on the Connecticut. 
': Burlington is a large and beautiful town, and en- 
*|oys one of the finest situations on Lake Champlain. 
jThe ridire of the hill, on the declivity (tf which it is 
jbuilt, commands an extensive view up^'nthe lake, with 
the nu.'jierous mountains, which border its western 
shores, and a large expanse of water on the right and 
left. Immediately below is the bay, bounded by high 
jland; and the elegant dwellings and beautiful gar- 
idens of the wealthier inhabitants, ornamciit the fore- 
{ ground. 

The Steamboats stop here on their way to Whitehall 

md St. John's (the route to Montreal ;) and the tra- 

ji^eller is referred to the Index for the objects on 

.]:he lake in those directions. [Returning to Connecti- 

hnt river J, 



IIA^'OVEK. 

This village, 21 miles above Windsor, is remarkable 
as the seat of 



294 ROUTE rP CO^'NECTICT;T RIVER. 



DARTMOUTH COLLEGE, 

an institution which holds a very respectable rank for 
learning- and influence, the number of its pupils, and 
the ability of i's officers. It was founded tor the edu- 
cation of Indians, anl was named after William, Earl 
of Dartmouth. It possesses a large tract of land, 
which, however, is unproductive ; and thn college 
building, which is of wood, and not inhabited by the 
students, has an aspect of decay. The chapel is also 
of wood ; but several of the houses about the green 
are very neat, and the ground being elevated, the place 
is very pleasant. The bills for tuition here are g33 a 
year. 

The Medical Institution is a brick building, a little 
north from the square. The number of scholars in 
the college is generally about 140. i 

The road between Hanover and Haverhill, 28 miles, 
presents few objects of much interest ; the country 
not being thickly populated, and no villages inter- 
vening, except Oxford, which has several very neat 
housHS. 

Opposite Hanover, in Norwich, Vt. is a Military 
and Literary Academy, established by Capt. Par- 
tridge, which is continued since his removal toMiddle- 
to\Nn, Ct. 

The Strafford Copperas Works are nine miles north 
of Norwich. One of the buildings is 267 feet long. The 
ore is pyrites, taken irom a stratum in a hill overlaid 
by a crust of ferruginous earth cont: lining petrified 
leaves, &c. The ore is broken and thrown into h^aps, 
for about two months, when it gradually undergoes a 
chymical change, emitting spontaneous fire and fumes 
of sulphur. It is then leached in tubs, and the water,, 
after boiling, yields crystals of copperas, of a rhombic 
form and a beautiful green colour. The manufacto- 
ries produce about 10,000 tons annually. 



HAVERHILL. 295 

tlAVERHILL. 

'^ There are three villages in this town, but the north- 
ern one is where the Boston road comes in, and where 
there are two good inns. The situation is elevated, 
and overlooks the meadows for some distance. The 
distant scenery is here very fine, as Moosehillock 
Mountain and several others are in plain view, and 
serve as an introduction to the White Mountains, which 
we are approaching. 

On the opposite side of the river i> Piermont, (and 
the traveller may cross or not,) where is a Sulphur 
Spring of some local celebrity, with a building for 
baths. Some distance south of it is a large house, in 
an agreeable situation, for the accommodation of vi- 
siters. It is capable of receiving a great many peo- 
ple, and has a garden and pleasant rustic walks about 
it. The stables are large, and great expense had been 
incurred, which has yet betn ill repaid. 

The Great Ox-bow is a meadow containing about 
500 acres, lying in the town of Piermont on the west- 
ern bank, and in the form of a crescent. An iron mine 
has recently been discovered in this town. The soil 
is fine and valuable ; but fmm the comparatively small 
extent of the meadow, it cannot be compared with 
that of Hadley. There are two or three houses seen, 
belonging to the family of the first settler, who, as 
may be imagined, soon acquired wealth from so valu- 
able a tract of land. 

At Bath is the handsome residence of Hon. M. P. 
Payson, and an excellent inn kept by Carleton. 

From Bath to the White Mountains, there are two 
roads, one of which turns off through Lisbon, Little- 
ton,* Bethlehem, Breton Woods, Nash and Sawyer's 
Patent, and Shadbourn and Hart's Patent, 

* At Littleton is an excellent inn. Distance from Hanover, 60 railcp : 
from E. A. Crawford's,, 18. 



296 ROLTE LP CONJNEOTKJLT iilVEK. 

Such is the -vvildness of Ihc country, that we can dc 
iittle more than enumerate the places. The road is 
new, in many places rocky, and in others rough, on ac- 
count of the logs which have been laid down to sup- 
port it, and the remains of the stumps of trees. But 
it is more direct and much less mountainous, than that 
which passes through Lancaster. It does not, how- 
ever, attord that fine view of the Connecticut Valley^ 
nor of the ranges of mountains which there surround 
it, like a magnificent amphitheatre. 

Franconia. This is a secluded village among the 
mountains, 5 miles from Bethlehem, where iron is ma- 
nufactured to a considerable extent. It is at the foot' 
of Haystack Mountain, which is about half-way be-i 
tween Mount Washington and Moosehillock — 20'milesi 
from each, Gibbs keeps an excellent inn at this! 
place ; and the stage coach passes twice a week, on,' 
the road to Concord and Boston by Plymouth, N. H.i 
The situation of the village, which contains 8 or 10 j 
families, is highly romantic, and it presents many fine| 
points of view. The Iron Mine is entered by a large I 
cavern, and is worthy of a visit. 

The Haystack may he ascended by any traveller 
disposed lor arduous enterprises of this description:! 
but it is not recommended in preference to the ascent 
of Mount Washington, which is rather less difficult. 
A footpath turns off from the road about 6 miles from 
Franconia, which conducts to the summit, 3 miles. 
The first twQ miles are through thick hemlock, hac 
nietac, spruce, kc. then i mile stunted trees, and the 
j'tjst bare rocks. Near the spot where the path begins 
is a remarkable Lusus NaiurcEj formed by a rock on, 
the side of a mountain, \yhich bears a resemblance toi 
the human face in profile. This eminence, callt'd 
Fro/ile Mountain, is 4 miles south of the lower iroi! 
works. Tlie forest shrubbery extends to the margin oi 
the bare rocks much in the proportion of the bust of; 
man. It is called the "0/^/ Man of the Mountain.' 
The precipice is 60.0 or 1000 feet high, and rises fro!^ 



the side of a pond, which is a source of the Pemige- 
■\vasset river. The neighbouring region is so moun- 
tainous, that more than fifty peaks, it is said, may be 
counted from the top of the Haystack. Indeed the 
view from that eminence embraces nothing but moun- 
tains, with here and there a cleared spot on the Ply- 
mouth road, and numerous marks of slides or ava- 
lanches made by the inundation in 1826. 

Lancaster 

is a very pleasant town, and the last on the river which 
merits that name. The surrounding mountains form a 
noble scene, superior to every other of this nature 
along its course. 

I The Canada line is only 40 miles north, and lies 
dloui^ ihe Connecticut. The following are the towns 
jcind best inns : (Marshal's and Eames') Northumber- 
' land ; (Porter's) in Stratford; (Mahurin's) Columbia ; 
(Chamberlain's) Colebrook ; and the last stage (Col. 
Eames') Stewartstown. 

[Having now completed the route up Connecticut 
River, we return to Long Island Sound. For other 
"outes and places, see Index.], 

NEW-LONDON, CONNECTICUT. 

1 Entering New-London Harbour, (in a N. Y. steam- 

; Doat,) on the left is the Lighthouse, and the dwelling 

\ )f Gen. North, once aid-de-camp to Baron Steuben. 

The shore beyond is inhabited by fishermen, whose 

joats (called smacks) are generally to be seen in great 

lumbers. 

Fort Trumbull occupies a point beyond, and is gar- 

! isoned by the United States. It was taken in the re- 

i/olutionary war, as well as the town, and Fort Gris- 

\ void, which stands on the high hill opposite. Look- 

ng up the River Thames, the prospect is handsome, 

he b^nks beina: hiarh and cultivated, and backed hy 



298 ROUTU FROM ^EW-YORK Td BO.^TOZs. 

Horlon's Hill several miles distant, in the Moheagan 
country. 

The harbour of New-London is one of the most 
accessible, safe, and commodious in the United States, 
lying near the Ocean and the Sound, almost surrounded 
by high land, and having water enouo:h for ships ot 
war quite up to the wharves, with a fine sandy bot- 
tom near the shores. Unfortunately, however, there 
is no convenient communication far into the country, 
and the region about it is far from being fertile, so 
that the place can never attain much importance. It 
serves in some degree as the port of Connecticut River, 
because there is no good harbour there; and a great 
deal of trade was carried on with the West Indies a ; 
few years ago. , 

New-London is the third town in Connecticut for the [ 
number of inhabitants, and like several of the others 
principal places, although so small, enjoys the pri-j 
vileges of a city. It is situated irregularly, princi-tj 
pally at the foot of a hill facing the east, and wears anj 
appearance of decline ; but some of the houses are^ 
handsome, and there are several fine situations near 
the top of the hill. 

There is a road hence to Providence, and another 
from Norwich, (13 miles up the Thames,) both equally 
uninteresting, and nearly of equal length. The rivei 
however, affords some very pretty scenes, and Nor 
wich is a neat and interesting town. The prices have 
hitherto been nearly the same for the two routes. 

Fort Griswold, opposite New-London, was garri- 
soned by a few continental troops in the year 1781 
the Revolution, when Benedict Arnold, after his trea- 
cherous desertion of the American cause, appeared ofii 
the harbour with a British force on the 6th of Sep- 
tember ; and landing 800 men on each point of the 
harbour, marched up and took Fort Trumbull, and 
burnt the town. Col. Ej're, who commanded the 
troops on the eastern shore, proceeded towards Forti 



THE PEQUOUS. 2^9 

(.riswold, and sending in a flag of truce, demanded a 
surrender. 

But before this time, Col. Ledyard had entered the 
fort, and garrisoned it with 120 men, chiefly militia 
volunteers from the neighbourhood. The British 
troops had advanced under cover of a wood, and in- 
vested the fort ; but the Americans defended them- 
selves for some time, beating off their enemies once, 
and finally surrendered, when resistance would have 
been entirely useless. The enemy had lost 41 officers 
and men, who were buried near the spot ; with Col. 
Ayres, the commander, wounded, and Maj. Montgo- 
mery killed. After the surrender, however, a mas- 
sacre of the prisoners took place, which cast the deep- 
est disgrace on the expedition: 70 officers and men 
I being the victinis, most of whom were heads of fami- 
lies. Many of the wounded were also treated in a 
intiost barbarous manner, being placed in a cart, and 
! rolled down the hill just south of the present road to 
the fort. Arrangements have been made for building 
by subscription a monument on the spot. It is to be 
m obelisk, 120 feet high, to cost about $14,000. 

The objects on the Thames, at Norwich, &c. will 
be taken up on page 301. 

Road from New -LosDo^ to Providence. 

{ Fort Hill is a commanding eminence, about 4 miles 
east from this place, and derives its name from a Pe- 
' juod Fort, which formerly occupied its summit. The 
I'oad crosses it near the southern limit of the fort, and 
i small church stands a quarter of a mile above, within 
ihe extensive space once enclosed by that palisaded 
jtvork. It was the great fortress of the terrible Pequod 
nation, which makes a very conspicuous figure in the 
jarly history of the eastern colonies. They had fought 
i.heir way from the interior, and seated themselves in 
he present limits of Groton, where the few poor re- 
nains of their de?cendants still are found. On the 



oOO KOLtH IKOSI 5yfEVV-Y0RK TO BOSTOi\. 

arrival of the English, ^they had extended their coh- 
quests a considerable distance up Connecticut River, 
and the Eastern and Western Nehantics on the coast 
xv^re subject to theni. 

In consequence of the murders they had committed, 
and the attacks with which they threatened the infant 
settlements at Hartford, Windsor, and Wethersfield, 
the inhabitants formed an expedition in the sprinsi ot 
1637, led by Capt. Mason, attacked their other fort on 
the Mystic, burnt it, and killed about 600 persons : 
after which the nation tied from their country ; and hav- 
ing: suffered another terrible slaughter in the swamp at 
Fairfield (see that place) were reduced to slavery, 
and ceased from that time to be an object of terror. 

This hill commands an extensive and delightful 
view, being almost entirely clear of obstructions, and 
being superior in height to the neighbouring hills. A 
considerable extent of Long Island and the Sound are , 
overlooked from the summit, with various islands, bays, ' 
and points on the Connecticut coast. At the time oi ] 
the burning of Mystic Fort, it was occupied by the , 
chief Sachem Sassacus, who hastened to the relief of ; 
his subjects, but arrived too late to render them any f 
assistance. On his return here, he burnt the wig- j 
wams and palisadoes, and immediately fled for refuge 
to the Mohawks, by whom he was beheaded. 

Mystic, 7 A miles. 

Stonington, 10 miles. 

On descending the hill which leads into this village, 
Porter's Rock, 30 or 40 feet high, is seen a little off 
the road on the right-hand. Under the shelter of itj 
it is said, Capt. Mason encamped with his little army^ 
on the niffht of May 26, 1637, old style, a few hours 
before his successful attack on the second Pequod 
Fort, which was on the top of a hill about two miles 
south of this place. 

During the last war, a small fort in this town was 
•-t.tnnjced by a «hip and two briers of Com, .Hardy% 



THE KIVER THAMES. 301 

squadron, and defended by the inhabitants with great 
■ gallantry. 

HopkintoUyW miles. 
I West Greenwich, 15 miles. 
Centrevillcj 2 miles. 

[Here are two cotton manufactories, about half a 
; mile apart, and two weaving shops, with their little 
settlements, principally inhabited by the w^ork peo« 
pie.] 
j Providence, II miles. (iSce page 309.) 

THE RIVER THAMES. 
Steamboat Route from New-London to Norwich. 

[ A little above New-London, there is a singular rock, 
I on the east side, where the explorers of the river are 

said to have landed, and to have been attacked by the 
I Pequods. The Moheagan country lies above, on the 
I west side, with HortorCs Hill, on the top of which 

Uncas had a fort, something of which still remains. 
I It is a very commanding position, and overlooks the 
j surrounding country. During the late war, the govern- 
' ment ships Macedonian, United States, and Hornet, 
I which were in the river, lay moored here for a length 
I of time, and their guns were drawn up by oxen to the 
j top of the hill, on the east shore, above the little cove. 
' A small battery was also constructed on the little spur 
j projecting from the hill in front. 3 or 4000 militia 

were stationed on the opposite shore for their further 

security. 
Massapeague Point, just above. Here the river is 
I quite narrow, opening northward into a small lake. 
' There is a small island on the eastern shore, on 

which is a ^tone cottage, built by the soldiers for a 
I poor family which resided here during the war. It 

lies at the entrance of a pretty cove, which makes up 

a mile. Commorlore Decatur brought the ships up 
C c2 



302 ROUTE FK03I T^EVV-VORK TO B0ST0I\. 

here, for still greater security ap:ainstthe British cruis- 
ing off New-London harbour. The place where they 
lay is KiaK's Cove, a mile above the island. Above 
this place, the river has been impeded by sand, washed 
down by the Shetucket River, and attempts are mak- 
ing" to remedy it by building piers. 

Trading Cove, 1 mile above Kiah's Cove, is a hand- 
some little bay, making up into the Indian country, and 
derived its name from the barter formerly carried on 
here between the white men and the Moheagans. Un- 
cas, the Sachem of Moheagan, was believed to be of 
Pequod descent, but in a state of successful revolt at 
the time the English became acquainted with him. 
His chief residence was near this cove, now the centre 
of the Indian Reservation; but the burying ground of 
the royal family was near Norwich Landing (which 
is in sight from this place). He had conquered the 
country as far north as about the present Massachusetts 
line, but became an early friend of the whites, and 
rendered them important services, particularly in war, 
as well as his successors, the later Moheagan Chiefs. 

Before this part of the state was settled, Uncas was 
once so closely besieged by his enemies the Pequods, 
tha. ue suffered extremely from a scarcity of provisions, 
and ,vas relieved only by the care of a man named 
Leffingvve!!, who \vas despatched from Connecticut 
whh a boat loc.d.,awith provisions. In gratitur" - Un- 
cas gave him a large part of the present town oi -.Nor- 
wich for this important service. There is a rock still 
pointed out on the shore, and called Uncas' Chair, 
where the Sachem is said to have set and watched the 
arrival of his friends. 

On the south side, Trading Cove is bounded by Nab 
Cooper's Hill, an appellation somewhat quaint for a 
neighbourhood not deficient in romantic association. 
Beyond is Fort Hill, which derived its name from a 
little place of strength erected in old limes by the In- 
dians, as a protection against other nations small like 
themselvci. The poor remains of thistribe reside on ■ 



xNORWICfl. 303 

the lands secured to them by the state g-overnment, and 
live in all the i2:norance, idleness, and thriftlessness 
common to Indians in this part of the country : nselan- 
choly testimonies of the degradation to which the most 
active human minds may sink when eveiy customary 
impulse to exertion has been stifled, and no new in- 
citement extended. An Indian could formerly equal 
or surpass his companions by an extraordinary display 
of swiftness and skill in the chase, or conduct and cou- 
rage in war; and what exertions were not made for 
jthe attainment of such distinction? Red men have 
traversed these beautiful shores in the pursuit of game, 
or the tracks of their enemies, and suffered all the se- 
; verities of climate and privation, of wounds and of tor- 
Iture, for those white men whose sons now neglect and 
i despise their descendants, and coldly question their 
(capacity for improvement. 

NORWICH. 

Stage Coaches go on to Providence and Boston, and 
there are others in different directions. 

It contains three villages, of which Chelsea Landing 
•is the principal, and is remarkable for its singular si- 
tuation, as well as for its appearance of business, which 
is much favoured t'y the numerous manufactories in 
;he neighbouring country. The Plain is about a mile 
liorth, and a very pleasant place. 
■■\ On the way thither is seen the Cove, at the upper 
^ind of which are the Falls of Yantic, a stream which 
?ours over a ledge of granite about 40 teet high, and 
upplies several manufactories with water. The place 
s highly picture-que. A rock, 70 or 80 feet in height, 
)verhangs the stream, whence a number of Narragan- 
t|;ett Indians once precipitated themselves when pur- 
iiued by the Moheagans. 

^ The Burying Ground of the Uncases is on the ele- 
'ated bank north of the Cove, on the grounds of Judge 
joddard. There are stones marking the graves of 



304 ROUTE PROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON. 

numerous members of the royal family of the Mohea- 
gans, and a few of them bear English inscriptions. 
The family is now extinct, with the exception of one 
or two degenerate beings, who have nothing but their 
name to boast of. Uncas, the old friend of the white 
men, is buried here. He and his nation were the only 
steady allies they ever found among the Indians, steady 
and powerful enough to render theai very essential 
service. He was a man of extraordinary ta ent, and 
withal extremely politic ; but he refused to join the ge- 
neral insurrection under King Philip in 1675, and died 
a friend of the white men. 

This plain was the principal summer residence o) 
the Moheagans. 

The Flannel Factory is 146 feet by 40, 5 stories high. 
.with a bleaching house, and dying house, and makes 
5000 yards a week. There are also the Carpet, PoU 
tcry. Paper, and other factories. ' 

The Cotton Manufactory is a very large establish- 
ment, under the bank and at the mouth of the Yantic 
The position is well selected, and the sum expendec 
in buildings and machinery very great. It is ownec 
by a company in Boston, from which city a vast amounj 
of capital has been expended in all parts of Newl 
England for similar objects, as the traveller will havti 
opportunity to perceive as he proceeds. 

The manufacturing village, although recently builr 
contained, in 1827, 800 inhabitants. About a milliosl 
and a half of dollars have been invested here. IBOc- 
bales of cotton were manufactured annually, producing) 
more than a million yards of doth ; 5 or 600 tons o| 
iron made into nails, nail-rods, &-c. and 150 or 200 ton 
of castings made from pig iron. 10,000 reams of pape 
have been made in a year, besides machinery, linsee< 
oil, &c. Here are two sch )ol-houses an'^ two churches 

Canal. Surveys were made in 182& for a Canal t 
run from Norwich parallel to Connecticut River, up th 
Quinebaugh River to Massachusetts. The supply c 
water is considered abundant at all seasons, and th 



JEWETT S CITY. oUo 

tract 01 country through which it is to pass extremely 
favourable to the execution of such a design, as well as 
by its fertility and population, encouraging to its suc- 

I cess. It is to pass through the following towns : Spring- 
field, Palmer, Western, Brookfield, Sturbridge, South- 
bridge, and Dudley, to the Quinebaugh. In 1828 an 

J association was formed to petition the Legislature for 

jjassistance in this project. 

] Road from Norwich to Providence. 

The road follows the course of the Quinebaugh Ri- 
ver for some distance, through a hilly tract of country, 
and near a fine cataract in that stream. At the distance 
p( li miles from Norwich, it passes 
1 SacheirCs Field. This is an elevated plain, on which 
H battle was fought in the year 1643, between about 
|)00 Narraganset's, (who inhabited Rhode Island,) and 
300 or 600 Moheagans. The Sachem of the former, 
Miantonimo, intending to chastise Uncas for his adhe- 
ence to the English, secretly advanced into his country 
vith an army ; but Uncas was aware of his approach, 
>nd met him on this plain where both parties lialted. 

Uncas resorted to a stratagem. He stepped forward 

jilone, and challenged Miantonimo to decide the quar- 

I el single-handed. This, as he expected, was retused ; 

hnd while his enemies were nr.t prepared, be gave a 

;|.ignal by falling down, when his men instantly set up 

ji yell, discharged their arrows, and rushed lorward. 

jThe Narragansetts fled, and many of them were killed. 

Jncas captured Miantonimo himself, but the haughty 

ndian would not ask for quarter nor speak a word. 

ie was taken to Hartford, and after a trial, was deli- 

'ered to Uncas for execution. He was brought back 

: this place, and while marching across the field was 

I omahawked on a spot a little east of the road, where 

! heap of stones for many years marked the place of 

:is burial. 

fjffiWftfs City is a small manufacturing place, 7 mile':, 



,306 ROUTE PROM NEVV-SrORK TO BOSTON. 

from Norwich. There are three cotton manufactories 
here, one with 2000 spindles. 

Plainfield 

is a pleasant village ; the inn is large and good, and 
overlooks a fertile plain, through which is the route of 
the proposed canal to Brookfield, Alass. 

On crossing the line to Rhode Island, the country be- 
comes uninteresting. The farmers are poor and negli-j 
gent ; there are no villages deserving of the name, and 
nothing worthy of particular notice, except one or two 
small manufactories. 

Providence. See page 309. 

NEWPORT. 

This place possesses one of the best harbours in the 
United States. The entrance is guarded by the Dum- 
plings Fort and Fort Adams; and the scenery about it| 
is agreeable. 

Fort Adams on Brenton's Point is to become one of 
the most important fortresses in the great plan of coast( 
defences, which have been for some years in the pro- 
gress of construction. This fortress was to cost, on an 
estimate, $170,000, and is to embrace, when completed, 
an extent of 130 acres. A range of guns is to line the 
shore towards the west as far down as the first rising! 
ground. The outer wall will be 40 feet in height, and 
extend nearly three-quarters of a mile, enclosing about 
19 acres. The outline of the works is now easily seen.i 
They will be able to mount 150 cannon, in connexion 
with the redoubt, which is to be erected on a neigh- 
bouring hill. Thus the fort would be prepared for an; 
attack on all sides, should it be made. The founda- 
tions and trenches have been cut into rock or hara clay. 
There is also a range of subterranean galleries cut in 
rock. 

Other works, in connexion with Fort Adam?, are prf>- 



rsEWPORT. oUT 

pused on the opposite shore, the Dumpling Islands, 
&,c. which would render the port secure as the princi- 
pal rendezvous for our navy north of the Chesapeake, 
for which it is designed by the government. If not 
entirely secure from a land attack, the neighbouring 
country would soon afford it abundant relief. This 
fort is thought not inferior, either in plan or importance, 
to any, unless Fort Calhoun. 

Fort Wolcott is on Goat Island, opposite the town. 

Newport extends about a mile along the shore, but 
presents the aspect of decay, as the commerce has 
been removed to Providence. The situation has many 
advantages; and this with the cheapness of rent has 
begun to render it the temporary abode of many 
strangers during the warm season. The Bellevue Ho- 
tel enjoys a tine situation. 

The Windmill, an old stone tower on the top of tlie 
hill, is a conspicuous object, although long disused. 
There are four churches visible ; and the Library, a 
small but neat and correct specimen of architecture in 
the upper part of the town, is worthy of attention. 
The houses of the town are thickly clustered about 
the water, but make rather a gloomy appearance on 
account of the want of paint and repair ; the place 
having experienced a gradual declension produced by 
the success of Providence, 30 miles further up. 

The Poor House is on Coaster's Harbour Island, 
about a mile above the town, seen in passing in the 
steamboat. The island belongs to the town, and con- 
tains 80 acres. The building is three stories high, of 
stone, and contains 50 or 60 poor. Those who are able, 
work on the land, and others at different manufactures; 
but most of them are women, and some superannuated. 
The keeper receives fitly cents a week tor the board 
of each, which is paid by the town, to which the pro- 
ducts of the labour are credited. Since this esta- 
blishment has been formed, the expenses of the poor to 
the town have been reduced one-half. 
, The beach behind the town, like the whole circuit 



o08 KOUTE FROM iNEW-YdKK TO JiOSTo.S 

of the city on the land side, was defended by a line of. 
troops, batteries, &c. during the possession of it by the 
English in the revolutionary war; and the opposite 
high grounds were occupied by the American army, 
whose head-quarters were on Taumony hill, a mile 
and a half, or thereabouts, from the town ; an elevation 
which affords an extensive view on every side. Gen. 
Prescott was taken here during the war, by a bold party 
of men under Col. Barton, who landed secretly from a 
boat in the night, went to the British head-quarters, 
and conveyed their captive away, before the land or 
naval forces, then in the harbour, could prevent them. 
The place was blockaded by the British fleet. 

During the possession of the place by the enemy, the 
trees, as well as about 900 houses, were cut down for 
fuel; and although the island is admirably calculated 
for the growth of fruit trees, and was, before that pe- 
riod, quite covered with the finest orchards, it is now 
so divested of trees of every description, as to appear 
remarkably naked and monotonous for an American 
scene. The fertility of the ground, and the excellence 
of the crops, however, as well as the neatness and 
precision with which the fields are cultivated, and re- 
gularly divided by fine stone walls, present a picture 
of agricultural beauty rarely paralleled in the United 
States. The island, 14 miles long, and not 3 wide, 
contained in 1827 more than 30,000 sheep. 

Fort Green is a little battery erected on the water's] 
edge, about a mile above the town. 

Mount Hope, famous as the ancient royal residence 
of the Wampanoag Indians, and particularly as the 
abode of King Philip, and the scene of his death, b 
seen from a few miles beyond Newport, towards the 
Dorth-west. It rises in Warren, on the shore of an arm. 
of the bay, and will be particularly described here- 
ufter. The view of it is soon afterward cut off by the 
intervention of Prudence Island, which is about five 
miles in length, and presents the same fertile soil anc 
^ntly SAvelling surface as that of Hhode Island. Th« 



PKOVIDKACi:. oOl' 

Uibabitanis are few, as are those of Patience and 
Hope ; islands of a much smaller size. Despair is 
a cluster of rocks on the left, near the island ot 
Hope, the north end of which is 20 miles from Pro- 
vidence. 

Rhode Island Coal Mine. An extensive mine of an 
thracite, or incombustible coal, was opened a few years 
since near the north end ot" the island, in Portsmouth, 
about 2 miles from Bristol Ferry. It was not exten- 
sively used, however, and the work was speedily- 
abandoned. The property has passed into other hands 
within two or three years ; and since the anthracites 
of Pennsylvania have become so valuable, about 40 
hands have at some periods been employed in digging- 
it, and about 100 tons of all sorts of coal have been 
^ot out in a week. The vein which is wrought is 
ibout 4200 teet one way, 115 another, and 4 feet in 
hickness. It lies on an inclined plane ; and three 
)ther veins are supposed to be of equal extent. 

Ne>v-York being the great market tor coal, this mine 
3 very onvenientiy situated ; lying within 800 yards 
if the river, where sloops come up to a wharf and 
load. The excavations are liable to be flooded in 
I vet weather, by which the working has been a good 
leal impeded. It is necessary that fireplaces should 
le constructed Oi> the plan of a furnace to burn this 
1 oal, as it requires a high degree of heal to ignite it. 

PROVIDENCE. 

This is the second city in New-England, both in 
opuLition, wealth, and beauty. It contained, in 1825, 
bout 16,000 inhabitants, and is beautitully as well as 
dvantas:eously situated at the head ot^ navigation, on 
I le river of the same name. It contains several hand- 
|)me churches, a theatre, an arcade, (on Westminster- 
reet,) and many fine hou-ses. 
n d 



lU ROUTE FROM iXEW-YORK TO BOdTOK 



Brown University, 

the greatest institution of learning in the state, is built 
on the summit of a high hill, the ascent to which is 
not very easy, although it is laid out in streets, deco- 
rated with some of the finest houses in this part of the 
country, dispersed among spacious gardens, and 
mingling the delights of the country with the splen- 
dour of a city. There are two brick buildings be- 
longing to this institution, which command fine pros- 
pects. In 1828 the number of graduates was 27. 

The town was settled by Roger Williams, who left 
the old colonies in consequence of a disagreement in 
religious doctrines. He built his house on the shore, 
near the present Episcopal church. Many of the 
society of Quakers or Friends afterward joined him, 
whose descendants form a large share of the popula- 
tion of the state. 

The Academy is a large institution, near the College, 
established by the Friends. 

On Eddy's Point, it was lately said, was the only 
cotton manufactory in the United States worked by 
steam. ' 

This state, having severely suffered from the want 
of public schools, has recently taken laudable mea-, 
sures to supply the deficiency ; and the towns are 
hereafter to be supplied. An Infant School has been. 
established in Providence. \ 

(For Plymouth, see Index.) 

[Taunton, 32 miles from Boston, next above Dighton.! 
A great quantity of cotton is manufactured here, and. 
there are extensive works in iron. The power is sup-; 
plied by 5 dams on the west branch of Taunton river. 
About 1500 tons of iron are manufactured here every 
year, 1200 tons into nails, 300 into plates, hoops, and 
machinery. From 1500 to 2000 pieces of calico print? 



3rAXLFA0T0TUES. 311 

are turnished by the cotton manufacturers, &c. weekly. 
Annually 800,000 yards of No. 30 cotton cloth are 
made ; and 50,000 lbs. of yarn, all out of 800 bales of 
cotton. About 700 persons are employed with 7000 
spindles and 200 looms. The highest manufactories 
up the river are built of wood ; the next of stone ; the 
'third of brick. There are two br ck dams , and the 
printing establishment is among the last. 

There is also a manufactory of Britannia ware, &c. 

Sampson's Hotel, at M-irlbofougB Ponds, is a plea- 
sant resort, half-way to New-Bedlord.] 

Manufactories in New-England. There are said to 
'be about 400 buildings in this section of the United 
"States, devoted to the spinning, weaving, and print- 
ing of cotton ; 135 for Massachusetts ; 110 for Rhode 
Island ; 80 for Connecticut ; 50 f<.r New -Ha ^pshire ; 
15 for Maine ; 10 for Vermont. They were sup- 
posed to contain on an average 700 spindles : which 
fives a total of 280,000. They worked peihaps 280 
ays in a year, and used 140 lbs. of raw cotton to each 
spindle : which would give a total of 39,200,000 lbs. 
or 98,000 bales. In one-third of the manufactories the 
weaving is done by power looms ; in one-third by 
hand ; and the others send their yarn to the middle 
and southern states, where it is woven by h md under 
contractors, or in families. Business has declined. 

Not more than 275 cotton manuf rctories are supposed 
to be in operation in the remaining parts of the United 
States. 

Wool and Woollen in the United States. — It was con- 
jectured in 1827 that about 100 millions of dollars were 
invested in sheep and sheep lands in this country ; the 
number of sheep at 15 millions, and 100 millions em- 
ployed in manufacturing wool. By the last census 
there were, in Dutchess county, N. York, more than 
450,000 sheep, which would give a surplus for other 
markets of 500,000 lbs. of wool annually. From 
800,000 to a million of sheep were estimated to have 
been wintered in (he state of Maine in 1826, '27 : 3'2 



312 ROUTE FROM KEW-YORK TO EOSTOK. 

millions of pounds were supposed to be worked up 
that year in the United States, giving full or partial 
employment to 100,000 persons. 

In boring the earth in this town, in 1828, from the 
€nd of the earth, the auger passed through the arti- 
ficial soil — then through a stratum of mud — then 
through bog meadow, containing good peat — then 
through sand pebbles and quartz gravel. At this point 
water impregnated with copperas and arsenic broke 
forth ; next struck a vineyard and dre » up vines, 
grapes, grape seeds, leaves, acorns, hazlenuts, ^ine 
burs and seeds of unknown fruits, together with pure 
water. This was 35 ieet below the bed of the river ! 

Rail Route from Providence to Boston. — A year or 
two since, a survey of the country between these two 
cities was made under the authority of the Legislature 
of Massachusetts, for the purpose of ascertaining the 
practicability of a railroad. The middle route \»as 
proposed, beecintiing on Front-slreet or near the 
Common in Boston, proceeds on the west side of 
Boston Neck, through Roxbury, west part of Dor- 
chester, east part of Dedlvim, middle of Walpole and 
Foxborou^h, a corner of Mnnsneld and Attlehorough 
City to Pawtuckef; crosses the river near Central 
Falls, proceeds through the east part of Providence to 
India Point, thence may be extended to Water-s(reet — 
or it may come to India bridge, on the Massachusetts 
side, and there terminate, or cross the river near that 
bridge to Fox Point. The whole distance fron; Boston 
to Fox Point, by Central Falls, is 43 miles aid 48 
chains : cost of single road 334,000 dollars — double 
road 649,513 dollars. Greatest rate of inclination 
would be 30 feet in a mile. The amount of ascent 
and descent on the route to Fox Point, by Central 
Falls, is 879 feet. 

The amount of merchandise annually transported 
between the two cities was estimated at 1700 'ons by 
hndj and 3400 by water, besides a large amount fou 



l»AWTl3CIvET. olo 

'shorter distances. In 1828, $82,000 were received by 
the agents of one of the lines of stage coaches between 
these two cities. 

Bla« KSTONE Canal. 

This canal, whirh was completed in 1828, and 
'extends to Worcester, Mass. runs alorig the course of 
the Blackstone River for several miies. That stream 
is seen on leaving Providenc , and lie- west of the 
road to Boston. The road now in use is new, and 
shorter than the old, but avoids several villages which 
that passes through, and presents very few objects 
worthy of notice. The Blackstone Canal is 45 miles 
long, 18 feet wide at he bottom, and 34 feet at the 
surface. There are 48 locks, all built of stone, which 
iovercome a rise a.d fall of 450 feet. The size of the 
locks is 82 feet in length, and 10 in breadth ; and the 
cost of the whole work was about $550,000. The 
water is chiefly derived from the Blackstone river ; 
but there are large iionds at different parts of the 
route which can be drawn upon at any time. Soon 
i after the opening of the navigation, a quantity of cherry 
1 plank and joist was received here from a vast distance 
i west. It grew in Michigan or Ohio, at the head of Lake 
I Erie ; from whence it was shipped down the lake to 
I Buffalo, thence by the Erie Canal to Albany, from that 
J place to Providence b)' sioop navigation, and from Pro- 
'\ vidence to this place by the Blackstot-e canal, a distance, 
^ in the whole, of at least nine hundred miles, four hun- 
dred miles of which is an artificial navigation. 

Pawtucket 



is one of the largest manufacturing places in thi« part 
of the country, and has in* reased surprisingly within 
a few years. The banks of the river are varied and 
somewhat romantic ; while the fall, which is under 
Dd2 



314 ROUTE FROM TCEW-YORK TO BOSTOa. 

the bridg:e, furnishes a most valuable water power* 
Cotton is principally nnanufactured here, though here 
is machinery devoted to other purposes. The influx of 
strang:ers, manv of them poor an«< ignorant foreigners, 
and most of 'hem removed from the wholesome 
restraints of a better society, has produced unfavour^sble 
effects on hahits and morals; which is the worst fea- 
ture in the manufacturing: system. The first spinning 
by machinery in this country vras done on a very 
smal! machine in 1785, in Providence. 

The road between Providence and Pawtucket, 4 
miles, is one of the best in the United States ; as the 
law requires that all the income above 10 per cent, 
shall be devoted to repairs ; and the travelling- is very 
great, [t is hard and smooth, and is to be furnished 
with a convenient side-walk the whole distance. 

Pa-Mucket is the first viilagTi near the canal and con- 
tains 8 or 10 cotton factories. At Central Falls, 3 
miles above, 4 io. Valley Falls, a short di*^t;.nce 
above, 4 do. Next come Kel'ey'sand the A'bion fac- 
tories ; then Mansfield, where are two factories, one 
45 feet by 150, and 5 sto-ies hig:h, of pressed brick. A 
mine of anthracite coal has been found near the canal. 

At Woonsocket Falls the descent of die river is 33 
feet in a short distance, an.^ affords fine sests for ma- 
chinery, equal to Pawtucket. There are cotton and 
woollen factories here. The canal passes through the 
village of Cumberland, and ris- s by three locks, of 11 
feet lift, constructe ) of granite. There are two other 
factories n^^ar this place ; and four at Bartlett's falls 
above, with a Scythe factory. 

At SlatersviUe is a factory 4fi feet by 153, and 5 
stories high, of hammered granite. All these esta- 
blishments, from Central Falls to SlatersviUe, are in the 
township of Smithfield, which abounds in valuable 
limestone. 

Mendon. Here is Farnem's woollen factory, and a 
cotton factory, without mentioning several other esta- 
blishments off the river. The Blackstone Factory, or 



BLACKSTOXE CANAL, 315 

Mammoth, can make about 5000 yards of sheeting 
dally. A little above are two other factories. 

IJxhridge, Here are factories of kerseymere, sat- 
tinet, &c. Roeerson's factory is one of the first in the 
state. It cost about ^140,000. There is a remarkable 
aspect of neatness and beauty pervading the esta- 
blishment and the village. There are several beautiful 
little ponds formed by art, the margins of which, as 
well as of the rivtr, have a very pretty aspect. 

Northhrid^e. Here are t\V(» factories. Ho 'brook 
woollen factory makes about 300 yards of sattinet a 
day, and Dennis' about 100. A quarry of granite is 
opened about 200 yards from the canal ; and that ma- 
terial abounds in this region. 

Grafton, Here is a fall of 51 feet. 400 yards of 
sattinet are made in one establishment her*-. Here 
are to be seen the New-England Manufacturing Com- 
pany's buildings, where the\ make duck and twine 
from both flax aad hemp. This is on ihe eastern road 
to Providence, and 6 rniles from Worcester. 

The Great Reservoir is just above. I' is formed by 
damming the Quinsigamond pon i and four other ponds, 
by a single dam. This sets the water back so far as 
to cover more than 2000 acres ; and keeps an abundant 
supply always at disposal. 

At tVilkinsonvilie is a large cotton manufactory ; and 
at Milburyj a little way beyond, 300 yards of woollen 
are made daily. Within a short distatice are also 
aianufactories of cotton, scythes, and guns. 

Worcester. Here are large paper mills, five machine 
jihops, &(.. &c. {See Index.) 

Aitlehorough. The inn stands on the spot once oc- 
pupied by a block hou r, built on the frontier of the 
j Indian country before Philip's war. Opposite is an 
'jld bury mg ground, which contains the body of the 
jirst man killed here by the savages. The largest 
'Button Manufactory in the U. States is in this town, 
i Walpole. Here the stage coaches usually stop to 
iine or breakfast. 



>16 ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON. 

Dedharrif 10 miles from Boston, is a large andbeau^ 
tiful village, with rei^ular ciiid well built street?;, and 
some quite elegant houses. Fisher Ames lived in the 
second house on the left-hand, as you enter the village. 

[Blue Hills. This is a pleas.u.t nireat, a^out '• n\i!es 
from the city of Boston, and much resorted to in the 
sumj.'ier Sr.ison ; as a iarae house o entertainment has 
been recently erected at the tool of the mountain, 
whence the place derives its nanse ; and the sunmiit, 
which is considered 800 feet above the le^el o. the 
ocean, commands a fine and extensive view. A small 
house has also been built on the top, where the view 
is the finest, for the temporary repose and supply of 
visiters. On the northern side, the view embraces, 
in a clear day, the Green Mountains in Vermont, and 
the White Mountains in Ne^v-Hanjpshire, with a wide 
extent of country between : INahant, and in general, all 
Boston Bay, is seen eastwardly, and near at hand.] 

The hills are seen on the right tVom the road, a kw 
miles south of Boston. 

(^uincy Railway. This is the first work of the kind 
which was constructed in the United States. It is 3 
miles long, and leads from the quarries of granite to 
navigable water, for the transportation of stone to 
Boston. The railway and the quarries will be found 
worthy of a visit. The descent from the commence- 
ment to the wharf is 86 feet ; breadth 5 feet from the 
inside of one rail to the inside of the opposite one ; 
a horse path between the two rails 4 feet 4 inches wide. 
The plank rails are of pine 10 inches in height, with 
caps of red oak 2 inches thick, by 3 inches width. 
The sleepers, or tranverse beams are of granite, 7 
feet long, on which the rails rest ; these sleepers are 
at distances of 8 feet apart. The wrought iron rails 
are laid on the red oak caps, and are '2 inches wide, 
and 3-8ths of an in. thick : 27 tons 3 cw 1. 14 lbs, of iron, 
including screws, are used to each mile, making short 
of 82 tons of iron for the 3 m. This railway was opened 
for use on the 16th September, 1826. and has been 



KOXBURY. 317 

since constantly used for the transportation of granite— 
generally 60 tons per day. One horse has drawn 22 
tons, including the weight of the two wagons, from 
the quarry down to the wharf; but the ordinary load 
of a horse is from 12 to 15 tons. One horse usually 
draws 2 wagons. By way of experiment, one horse 
drevY 13 tons up an elevatioti at the rate of 66 feet 6 
inches in the mile, a distance of 200 feet. A load of 

24 tons in 3 wagons passed on the railway, which did 
not appear to shake the rails at all. The wheels of 
the wagons are 6 feet in diameier ; the axle tree 3 inches 
in diameter. Weight of wagons, 3500 pounds each. 

Four beautiful columns were taken from the granite 
quarries, in 1828, of solid masses, for the new church 
in Quincy. They are 25 feet long, 4 feet 2 inches in 
diameter at the base, S^at top, and supposed to weigh 

25 tons each. 

Roxhury. On the Neck which leads to Boston, we 
pass the remains of the intrenchments thrown up by 
General Washington, in 1776, to shut the British 
troops up in the town ; and a little beyond them is the 
place where Gen. Gage previously drew his line 
; across, to command the communication between it and 
[the country. The country on both sides retains marks 
af the American forts, redoubts, &c. and Dorchester 
Heights on the east are crowned with the works thrown 
dp by Washington, which commanded Boston and the 
anchorage; and forced the enemy to evacuate the 
I place. Embarking here in their fleet, they went 
around to Long Island, and soon after entered New- 
STork. [See page 322,] 

[Several rout'.s have been proposed for a canal, to 
38 cut from Boston Harbour to Narragansett Bay, 
5uch a work would save the exposed navigation 
] 'ound Cape Cod.] 



l^ crrr OF EosTOiv. 



BOSTON. 



Hotels. Tremont House.* The Exchange. Marl- 
borough Hotel, &LC. 

Boston contains an uncommon proportion of fine 
buildings, particularly private residences: for it not 
only possesses much wealth, ''Ut ;ns(< much taste and 
puhlic spirit. The finest bnildii,;;? are of whitish 
eranite, brought from the shores of the Merrimack 
lliver, being found in abundance at different places, 
from Chelmsfoni to Concord, N. H. I' is transported to 
Boston by the Middlesex canal, and is no' only beautiful 
and lasting, but obtained at a moderate price. It is 
found very durable when exposed only to the ele- 
ments : but fire soon disintegrates and ruins it. The' 
Quincy granite is also excellent. 

The AthencEum. Underthe patronageof wealthy and' 
generous frends of the arts and sciences, for whom^ 
Boston has long been conspicuous, this valuable col- 
lection of books, coins, and medals has by rapid de- 
grees risen to a grade of eminence among the 'ibrariesl 
of the country. In addition to the numerous and vo- 
luminous works before in the possc'^sion of the insti4 
tution, subscriptions have been made within a fewH 
years to procure complete copies of the transactions 
of the Royai Societies and Academies of Sciences inl 
London, Ldinbuigh, Dublin, Paris, Petersburg. Berlin, 
Turin, Gottin^en, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Madrid^ 
and Lisbon. The cataloiiue of 1827 contains 'iS, 000 
volumes. Any person, by payinof $10 a year, may 
enjoy (he liberty of readin^L books in the roo-ns of this| 
institution ; but only proprielors and life subscribers! 
have the privilege of taking diem away. The libraryi 
however is free to strangers introduced by proprietorss 
and may then be visited by them alone at any time. 

* Tremont House is the most splendid hotel in the United States. It 
makes a line appearance, contains 180 rooms, and is conducted on an 
excellent plan. A part of the establishment is appropriated to private 
parties and families, and has a distinct access, through a different sfref! 
aitb no i.-onimnnication with the main bodvof the building. 



CITY OF BOSTON. UM 

Most of the valuable periodical magazines of Europe 
are regularly received ; as well as those of the United 
States, and newspapers from all parts ot the country. 
The Exhibition and Lecture rooms are in a building 
in the rear. The Vcademy of Arts and Sciences have 
a room on the first floor, and there is a picture gallery 
on the second. 

The JVew Market is constructed of granite, and is 
of the fonowing dimensions: a cetitre building 74i 
feet by 55, with wings, extending in all 536 feet, with 
a fine facade at each end, with granite columns of 
single pieces, 21 feet high, and v^eighing each 14 or 
15 tons ; a row of granite buildings on each side, 4 
stories high, for stores, more than 500 feet. 

In State-street are the Banks,* Insurance Offices, and 
'Change. 

The Common is a fine piece of ground, on the south- 
western side of the city, and one of its greatest orna- 
ments. The surface is agreeably varied by a few 
*ent!e undulations, and it is decorated with rows of 
nandsome dwelling houses on two sides, while on the 
ihird it is bounded by the bay of Charles River, and 
iffords an extensive view in that direction, embracing 
[i tract of cultivated hilly country. A range of buildings 
near the south end of the Common, berirs the name of 
I Colonnade How, in consequence of their being all 
I dike rurnished with white columns. 
J The State House is the principal object seen in ap- 
i broaching the city, and stan-ls o'\ a considerable emi- 
nence at the north side of the Common. It has a 
Joul;le range of columns in front of the main building, 
.nd a large dome on the top, to which a somewhat 
ntricate staircase leads, affording the most extensive 
'iew of Boston and the suiTounding country which is 
be found. 

* In Boston there are 17 banks, exclusive of tne U. S. Branch, 
''hese banks, or rather 14 of them, have in circulation bills bearing 
nterest to the amount of $3,493,142 42. The amount of all debts due 
*ie whole of them, exclusive of balnnces duy f'-am the banks i~ 

18..50t.559 3.";. 



Chantrey^s Statue of Wasliington. in this beautit'ut 
specimen of the genius and skill of the greatest British 
sculptor, Boston possesses a treasure. It was finished 
and sent to America in 18-27, and a npw apartment 
was constructed for its reception, adjoining: the Doric 
Hail in the State House. The total expense of the 
statue and building amounted to about $16,000. The 
sculptor received of this $10,000. The entrance 
from the Hall into the edifice is ^l^rough arched pas- 
sages, which afford the visiter a full view in ap- 
proaching and from various points. 

The hills at Dorchester, Roxbury, Brighton, Cam- 
bridge, Charlestovvn,* &c. together with the numerous 
islands which pro*eci the harbour, form an amphi- 
theatre, very regular and beautiful, when seen from 
the top of the State House ; and the villages which 
are seen in every direction, almost entirely line the 
shore. The mingling of land and water in this scene 
is very fine ; and it is easy, at a glance, to compre- 
hend the plan of the various measures adopted during 
the Revolutionary war, for the defence and the cap- 
ture of the place. 

The JVavy Yardy at Charlestown, encloses 60 acres, 
and enjoys many advantages in its situation. It has a 
high stone wall on the north ; and near the water stand 
a large warehouse of brick, several arsenals, maga- 
zines of stores, the residence of the superintendent, 
and three very large ship-houses, each large enough to 
hold a hundred-gun vessel, with the stages, &c. The 
Dry Dock is very large. The foundation is made 
with piles, driven three feet apart, supporting layers 
of timber, plank, and stone. The stone work will 
amount to about 500,000 cubic feet. 

Gen. Gage, in 1775, ran a breastwork across Rox- 
bury neck, uhich is very narrow, in order t(» com- 
mand the only land communication with the neigh- 

* At Charlestown is tlio Stale Pr'sov, whirh ?ins lately been grentl- 
unproved, on th^ best p!?in«. 



H Lake US liiLL. ..i2.t 

bouiing' couniry, and then continued those acts of op- 
pression upon the people, which exasperated the 
colonies so nnuch a^^ainst him. Contributions were 
sent in for their relief from all parts of the colonies. 

On the 17th of June, 1775, while the forces which 
had repaired to this threatened scene had their head- 
quarters at Cambridge, a body of men, principally 
formed of detachments trom Massachusetts and New- 
Hampshire regiments, having fortified themselves on 
Breed's Hill, (an eminence of about 70 feet, behind 
Charlestown,) manfully disputed the ground with the 
British troops sent over from Boston to occupy it. 
The loss was great on both sides, particularly on that 
of the assailants, who were driven back in three at- 
tacks. The boldness of these raw troops, and the 
success with which they so long withstood the charges 
of the regulars, were of the utmost use, by encourag- 
ing the country, and by convincing the English that 
they were fighting a powerful foe. The !»atde usually 
goes by the name of Bunker's Hill ; but should, in 
strict propriety, be called after Breed's Hill, as the 
latter is a distinct eminence, although, perhaps, a spur 
from the tormer. 

The British landed near a point, just beyond where 
the navy yard is now seen ; and the American defences 
consisted of a small earth redoubt on the top of Breed's 
Hill, and a double rail fence, stutfed with new hay. 
extending from it to the water. Some remains of 
these works are still to be traced. A British sloop of 
war lay, during the action, in Mystic River, beyond 
ihe navy yard, and kept up a cross fire upon the low- 
neck, which connects the peninsula of Charlestown 
with the mainland. 

The 17th of June, 1825, the fiftieth anniversary of 
ihis battle, was commemorated with very appropriate 
i ceremonies ; and the corner stone of a monument was 
laid in an angle of the old redoubt, on Breed's Hill, 
with Masonic ceremonies. A large number of Revo^ 
jlutionaiy oflicers and soldiers assembled: and ihr 



.3^2 CITY OF B©STON. 

monument is to be erected at the expense of pnvaie 
contributions. 

Bunker Hill Monument. The base (a mass of 
14,000 tons weight,) is laid 13 feet deep, and has six 
courses of stone to the surface — the first of which is 
50 feet on each side. Above this a pyramidal obe- 
lisk, 30 feet square, is to rise tapering-, 213 feet 4 
inches on the ground, and to be 15 at the top. It will 
be composed of 80 courses of stone, each 2 feet 8 
inches thick. A winding stone staircase in the inside 
will lead to the summit, whence the view will be fine 
and highly interesting. The whole is to be built of 
granite from Quincy. The largest block in it is said 
to be of the following dimensions: 11 feet long, 5 
broad, 2 feet 8 inches high, with a weight of ten tons. 

After the battle of Bunker's Hill, the Continental 
troops were drawn in a more complete line around the 
town of Boston ; and numerous intrenchments may 
still be traced out on most of the hills in the vicinity ; 
but it was not till Gen. Washington succeeded in oc- 
cupying Dorchester Heights, which command the 
harbour and town from the south-east, that the Bri- 
tish embarked in their ships, and evacuated the 
place. 

Dorchester Heights were occupied on the night of 
March 4, 1776. iiight hundred men formed the van ; 
then followed carriages, and 1200 pioneers under Gen. 
Thomas, 300 casts of fascines and gabions, and guns 
in the rear. Two forts were formed by 10 at night, 
one towards the city, and the other towards Castle 
Island. Preparations were made for an attack by the 
British, and for defence by the Americans; but the 
weather prevented the design of the former, who con- 
sisted of 10,000, and they embarked for New-York. 
The town was pillaged, and 1500 loyalists removed. 
It was evacuated and possessed, March 17 : ammuni- 
tion, &c. being left by the British. 

The Massachusetts General Hospital is near tlif 
Charlestown Bridge. 



MANUFACTURING. 323 

Bridges. Some of the most striking- objects in the 
neighbourhood of Boston, are the bridges which lead 
from it to various points. There are no less than five 
principal ones, besides several branches. The ex- 
pense at which they have been constructed and are 
kept in repair is very great, and they furnish great fa- 
cilities for strangers desirous of making excursions to 
the surrounding country. 

Education. The Lyceum, a literary institution, 
with branches in many of the to^vris in this and other 
states, is calculated to diffuse useful learning among all 
classes. This state took the lead in establishing a 
system of general education, and enjoys its benefits. 
There were, in 1827, 7500 children instructed in the 
public schools in Boston, as follows — There are seven 
grammar schools, in which were about 500 pupils. 
There were 200 boys in the Latin school, and 140 in 
the High school. The 57 primary schools contained, 
in 1828, 3436 children between 4 and 7 years of age, 
taught by females, &c. &c. In some of these the 
monitorial system has been introduced . The public ex- 
pense incurred in instructing nearly 7500 children is 
^54,500 annually. There have since been established 
several Infant schools, under the direction of a so- 
ciety of ladies. 

A monument has been laid or commenc<-d over the 
graves of Dr. Franklin's parents, in the Granary bury- 
ing ground. The model is for an obelisk, 25 feet 
high, formed of seven blocks of Quincy granite, each 
weighing about 6 tons. 

An Asylum for the Blind is to be established in 
Boston. 

Villages. The vicinity of Boston presents a suc- 
cession of villages, probably not to be paralleled for 
beauty in the United States. They are generally the 
t residence of a number of the most opulent citizens 
during the pleasant seasons, and many of the buildings 
are fine and expensive. The grounds are also fre- 
j Quently laid out \vit.h great ta«te, and highly cult! ■ 



3H4 cixr OF ivisTo]:^;. 

vated ; so that no stranger, who has leisure, should faii| 
to take a circuit through them, at least for a few miles.* 
The puhlic coaches may be found convenient. There are 
several manufacturing establishments in this vicinity, 
among which Waltham is conspicuous. [In some 
places on the coast salt is made from sea- water. f] 

Cambridge, 3 miles from Boston, is the seat of the 
oldest, and one of the principal colleges in the United 
States. The village is very pleasant, and contains the 
residences of the numerous professors. The college 
buildings are numerous, and the older ones venerable 
in their appearance. 52 degrees of A.M. were con 
ferred in 1828. This institution is the most richly en- 
dowed in New-England, and has educated many of 
her most distinguished men. Hon. Josiah Quincy is 
the President. 



NAHANT, 

14 miles. This is a very pleasant and fashionable re- 
sort, during the warm months : being a fine situation, 
open to the sea, of easy access by land or water, andi 
furnished with several houses for the accommodation 
of visiters, particularly the large hotel. A steamboat 

* The V. S. Mirine Hospital at Cljelsea, opposite Boston, is a fine 
building, erected out of ihe Hospita' collected from seamen in the mer- 1 
chant service. It is 105 feet long, 50 wide, three stories high, and cost 
$30,000. Here tenijiorary relief is alToided to American seamen who! 
had paid Hospital mmicy, (unless affected by contagious diseases,) and. 
foreinn seamen are admitted at the orice of 75 cents a day. . 

t The Salt Manufactories of Massachusetts are worth about two mil- 1 
lions of dollars, and make about 600,000 bushe's a year, by solar eva- i 
poration. Each bushel weighs 75 potmds. The duly in tlie United ' 
States on imported salt is 20 cents a bushel ; and yields a revenuf; of 
$600,000, Manufactories, by natural and artificial heat, are established 
in the following states:— New- York, Ehode-[sland, North Carolina and , 
Alabama. 

In Barnstable county there are estimated to|be fifteen millions square 
feet of land devoted to the making of salt by solar evaporation. In 
New-England there are supposed to be 1^ JPi"'""- wlii'-h in 1P'>7. nm- 
ili'-csd 384,954 bushels ofsnir. 



runs thither in the summer, and there is a fine road 
which passes round the bay through the shoemtiking 
town of Lynn, along Lynn beach, and then turns off to 
the promontory of Nahant, which is a point of rough 
rocks of considerable elevation. You may crosS 
Charlestown bridge, and visit Bunker's Hill at set- 
ling out. 

The passage in the steamboat affords a fine view of 
Boston bay, with the city ; Dorchester heights on the 
south, Bunker and Breed's Hill on the north-west, 
and many other interesting objects.* Among the 
islands which form the defence of the harbour, is that 
which contains Castle Williams, and one or two other 
fortified ones ; Rainsford Island with the Marine Hos- 

?)ftal, part of it quite elevated, but containing only a 
ew acres. Salt is made at Deer Island, where you 
pass through a narrow and crooked channel, and wind- 
mills are sometimes used to pump the water. 

The ground near the hotel at Nahant, has been laid 
out and ornamented with as much taste as the expo- 
sure of the situation will permit. The cupola on the 
top commands a fine water scene ; and during a strong 
wind from the sea, the waves are high and magnifi- 
cent, breaking wildly against the rocks. Pea Island, 
south-westerly, and Egg Island, east, are prominent 
and rocky. There is a very ornamental little build- 
ing, in the Doric style, which contains billiard rooms. 

The Baths are at a little distance from the hotel, and 
quite commodious, furnishing one of the chief attrac- 
tions of the place. 

The Spouting^ Horn is a hollow in the rocks, on the 
shore, east of the village, where,- at half-tide, the 
waves throw the spray ten or fifteen feet into the air. 

The Swallow^s Cave is a remarkable aperture in the 
rocks, not far from the landing place. It is 60 or 70 
feet long, and in one place about 20 feet high. The 
tide rises in it, and it is visited by swallows : and 

, * At Dorchester is a House of Musfr-'f. 
E e 2 



326 CITY OF liOSTOK. 

there are several other caverns of a similar ciiaracterj 
produced in the course of ages, by the constant attri« 
tion of the water. Seats are conveniently disposed at 
different places, in the most commanding points, from 
tvhich the truly striking oijects around are seen to 
great advantage. The rude shores and the smooth 
beach can be best examined at low tide ; but those 
who are fond of sublime scenes, should omit no op- 
portunity to visit them when the wind is high, parti- 
cularly in a mo -nlight night. 

Proposed Improvements for Internal Commumca* 
tion. — Plans have been on foot for several years, for 
constructing canals and railways from Boston to the 
Hudson River near Albany. 

Proposed Railroad from Boston to Albany. — This 
project was rejected, in 1830, by a large vote in the 
Massachusetts Legislature. The following- results are 
given by the surveyors of the southern route, which 
they considered the most eliicible. It passes through 
Worcester, Leicester, Spencer, Springfield, western 
part of Westfield, thence along the southern branches 
of Westfield river to Washington, thence through Pitts- 
field and Richmond to tl»e bounaary of the state, near 
th«- north line of VVest Stockbridge. The distance by 
the line here described, is 94 miles and 64 chains from 
Boston to Connecticut river, 160 miles 44 chains to rbe 
border of the state, and by the shortest lines surveyed, 
193 miles and 6 chains to Albany. 

Of this distance " 13 miles are level ; and in travel- 
ling towards Albany 94^ miles are descending, 41^ 
miles have an ascent not exceeding 20 feet per mile, 
25 miles have an ascent of different rates from 26 to 
52 feet per mile, and the remaining 24 miles an ascent 
of 52 to SO feet per mile. In travelling from Albany 
to Boston, 901, miles are descending, 45^ ascending 
not more than 26 feet per mile, 21i ascending from 26 
to 52 feet per mile, and 27| miles from 52 to 80 feet. 
Eight tons net weight are considered an average load 
for a single horse on the level parts, and parts ascend- 



PEOJEC'TED KAILUAi^. 327 

mg not over 26 feet per mile, travelling 19 or 20 miles 

Eer day ; 6 tons for the parts ascending from 26 to 52 
?et, travelling 10 miles per day ascending, and return- 
ing the same distance ; and 4 tons for the parts as- 
cending 52 to 80 feet, travelling at the rate last men- 
tioned." 

The cost of the road, 22 feet in width, is estimated 
at ;^ 14,940 70 per mile, on an average. Adding ten 
per cent, for unforeseen expenses, the whole cost of the 
road from Boston to the border of the state, will be 
$2,638,628 64 ; to Albany, <^3,254,876 46. It is cal- 
culated that the cost of transportation, for heavy goods, 
paying the lowest rates of freight, would be about one 
cent per mile on an average, exclusive of tolls, which 
will add perhaps half a cent more per ton. 

[A company was organized, in 1827, to open a Waie^' 
Communication between the Piscataqua and the Con- 
lecticut Rivers, through the waters of Lake Winni- 
oiseogee, and the upper branch of Merrimack River.] 
Boston and Whitehall Railroad. — A railroad has 
ilso been projected to the head of Lake Champlain. 
it VYjiitehail, over a route, and in connexion with chan- 
iels of commuoicalion which promise great advan- 
ages. 

The' route which is proposed, is from Boston through 
jowell, Nashua, Amherst, Weare, Henniker, Brad- 
brd, south end of Sunapee Lake, down Sugar River, 
hrough Nevv^port, Claremont, and Cornish, to Wind- 
er, Vt. — thence through Reading, Plymouth, Shrews- 
bury, to Rutland ; thence through Castleton, to lake 
'hamplain, at or near Whitehall. Or, if upon a sur- 
ey it should be thought expedient, to pass from 
iowell up the Merrimack to Concord, and thence to 
iverge upon the same route. 

A glance at the map of New-England will be suffi- 
ient to understand the importance of this project, and 
» discover that various branches might be run in con- 
exion with it, along the most productive portions of 
le neighbouring districts. 



o2^ CITY OF BOSTON. 

There are numerous manufacturing as well as agri- 
cultural villages along the route, and granite, soap- 
stone, lime, marble, copperas, &c. are found in quan- 
tities in different places, besides a great amount of 
water-power hitherto unemployed. 

The present roads from Boston to Whitehall are 
about 160 miles in length; and the rail route would 
not be much greater. For travellers, therefore, as 
well as for merchandise, it might be an advantageous 
work, if once well constructed and in operation. 
. A route has also been proposed for a Railway com- 
munication between Boston and Lake Ontario, from 
Concord to Lebanon on Connecticut River ; thence 
through the valley of the White River to Monlpelier; 
by Onion River to Lake Champlain ; and thence to 
Ogdensburg. The last section, which has been sur- 
veyed for a state road, is peculiarly favourable. 

After a survey made for a railroad to Providence,! 
by the authority of the Legislature, a report was made,, 
stating that there are two practicable routes, neither 
of which would offer an elevation above thirty feet in 
a mile, except one short section. Estimated expense, 
^350,000. {See page on.) 

Plymouth, 36 miles S, S. E. from Boston. 

This place is highly interesting from its history, be- 
ing the site of the first settlement made by the New- 
England Pilgrims in 1620, on the 22d of December. 
A mass of granite rock is still shown on which those 
stepped who first landed. It has been divided, and a 
part of it remains buried near the shore in its natural 
location, while the upper part is removed into the centre 
of the village. , 

A handsome building was erected here in 1820, ir 
which the New-England Society hold their •innual 
celebrations of that interesting era in the history of the 
country. Burying Hill, which rises near at hand, iit 
the spot where a small fort was erected by the settlersj 



JU>UTJ;> FiiOJI liOSTOIV. SzT^ 

aiid where the graves of several of them arc siiH to br. 
ibund. Tlic banks of tlie brook soulli of the hill were 
the scene of the first conference with Massasoit, a 
friendly and faithful Indian chief, from whonrithe name 
of the Bay, and subsequently that of the state was 
derived. Manumet point is a promontoiy on the south 
side of the harbour ; and a small island on the opposite 
of it was the spot where the pilo-rims first placed their 
feet on shore in this vicinity, afier having previously 
landed on Cape Cod. 

The young and feeble colony suffered extreme dis- 
tresses here, from the severity of the climate, (against 
which they were unprepared, as they had sailed lor a 
more southern region,) and the want of provisions. 
Nothing but the assistance of Massasoit preserved them 
from extinction. 

5a?ic^ciy?c/?, a favourite resort for fishing* and sea'air, is 
a few miles below Plymouth. There is a good inn kept 
by ViY. Swift. 

ROTJTES FEOAI BOSTOZS. 

Coaches go in so man}'' directions, that a choice may 
be made between a great many, all of them pleasant; 
!n setting out for a tour to the westward, or towards 
khe city of New-York : 

j In the first place, the noble scenery of the White 

]HiUs rnay be taken in the way to Lake Champlain, 

iC!anada, the Springs, or Niagaia; or in making the 

nore circumscribed route of Connecticut itiver. 

js^ext, those who choose a more direct way, may avail 

{heuiselves of the road through Concord, Keene, and 

iiVindsor; or its branches to Charlestovvn or VValpole. 

J The last is now much travelled, as it is one of the 

jihortest routes between Boston and the Springs, and 

I eads through a number of interesting places. Besides 

hese, are the roads to Albany or the Springs, through 

he following different places : Brattleborough, Bloody 

^rook. GfPf'nfirlrl, Novth'^.rnpton. (and New-Lebanon f*^ 



33<J itttUTES FKOM BOSTOK. 



Springfield and Hartford. Of these different routes, 
it is difficult to make choice of any one to recommend 
in g^eneral. Many have particular objects in view 
and some will have less time at their disposal. To 
strangers, however, it will be proper to remark once 
more, that the route of Connecticut River presents atj 
once a scene of fertility, population, good habits, andi 
intelligence, on the whole, superior to any other tract 
of country, of equal extent, in the United States, witlij 
correspondent accommodations for travellers. Tht^ 
scenery is rich and varying, and cannot fail to please 
wherever it is seen ; but those who can fijst pass 
through the Notch in the White Mountains, will find 
its beauties greatly enhanced by the contrast. Since 
the devastation caused by the flood in 1826, the roa(^ 
has been so much repaired as to be very good ; and 
g:reat improveinents have been made at E. A. Craw-j 
ford's, in the ascent of Mount Washington and in ac-i 
conmiodations. At Hadley and Northampton, is thej 
most beautiful part of the whole river ; and for th€ 
other routes, we can only refer to the Index for the 
descriptions of the principal towns through which theyi 
pass. 

East of Boston, the country is of a different, and toe 
often of an opposite character, presenting: a few object 
of importance, except the seaports through which th( 
chief road passes. 

There is a line of Steamboats to Maine and JVew 
Brunswick. 

The Road to Portland and through the most popui 
lous part of the state of Maine will be given; but 
being of less interest to most travellers from this city 
will be placed towards the end of the volume, while 
we turn our attention to the principal routes leading 
west and north from Boston. 






ilOUTE FftOSI BOSTOA' TO AETV'-LEBA^OIS. 331 

To Albany through Worcester, Northamp- 
ton, AND Lebanon Springs. 

• Watertown^ like almost all the villages in the vicinity 
of Boston, presents many neat country seats and an 
aspect of rural beauty and fertility. 

Framingham. Here is a large and well kept hotel, 
where the stage coaches stop, and a place of great re- 
sort. (20 m. from Boston.) 

Worcester, 20 m. {See Index.) Leicester, 
9 m. Spencer, 6 m. 

• Brookfield. This was one of the towns earliest 
settled in this part of the country, dating as far back 
as Nov. 10, 1665 ; and for several years the only 
towns on the west were Hadley, Northampton, &,c. 
while there was no white settlement between it and 
CJanada. The stage coach passes over a long hill in 
West Brookfield, which commands an extensive pros- 
oect ; and this was the place where the settlement 
oegan. A iew yards west of a white house on the 
lorth side of the road, was a house built for defence, 
ind though of little strength, was called the Fort. In 
August, 1675, this place was suddenly beset by seve- 
•al hundred savages. The inhabitants had been im- 
posed upon by the appearance of friendliness shown 
)y the Hassenemesit Indians, and on their way to their 
ort, a few miles distant, were ambushed and pursued, 
o that they barely escaped. The house in which 
aey all assembled was besieged, and was several 
imes in imtiiinent danger. On one occasion a cart, 
oaded with hemp, &c. and set on fire, was pushed up 
the house with long poles, when a sudden shou er 
ame up, in time to extinguish the flames. The for- 
unate arrival of Capt. Mosely, with a small troop of 
iorsemen, delivered the inhabitants, and drove away 
he savages. All the honse«= having been burned, and 



Jb2 KOlJTE I'KO^r iJLiSL'OA TO rsK\v -LEKAAOX. 

the war soon beginning- lo rage with violence, the set- 
tlem(3nt was cvacuatec!. 

The old well still remains which belonged to the 
fort or blockhouse ; and there is a rock in a wall, on 
the opposite side of the road, from behind which an 
Indian shot one of the men, who came out to drawi 
ivafer diirinj^ the siege. " | 

The present village is at the bottom of the hill, andi 
is pleasantly situated, with several ponds in the neigh-; 
bourhood, which, with the fish and fowl they furnished,, 
were the principal attraction of the savages, whc' 
were very numerous in this tract of country. These' 
ponds give rise to the Q,uabaug river, which, after a, 
course of some miles, takes the name of ChicopeC:' 
and joins the Connecticut at Springfield. This is thei 
stream which it has been proposed to connect with 
Boston Bay by a canal, and also by another with the 
Thames at Norwich, in Connecticut. 

Four miles east of Brookfield you reach a height ot 
land, which affords a varied and extensive view, with] 
a succession of hilly country immediately around you. 

Ware Factory Village 

J3 situated in a little valley, with an excellent inn. The' 
rocks and woods give an air of wildness to the water 
fall, in their natural state, and the place is now quite 
picturesque, when a rustic cottage, the residence oi 
the agent, is taken into view. 

A few years since there were only five buildings ; and 
now there is a cotton factory, containing 2,000 spindle? 
and 56 looms ; another with 4,500 spindles, and 150 
looms ; a third, of the size of the latter ; a flanne: 
manufactory, in which are made 15 pieces per week 3 
dye, wool houses, machine, blacksmith's, cabine'i 
makers', and various other shops ; grist and saw mill.' 
a finiiaco, &c. But it is on its decline. 

Bekhertown, 9 miles. 

i Amherst, 7 miles. The shortest road to Northampton 
does not loass t'.3 Collesf. (S<'e Index. "^ 



LEXlNt^TOiN . 333 

tiadley, 5 miJes. 

ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO THE WHITE 
MOUNTAINS. 

The first day's journey is to Concord or Dover, both 
in New-Hampshire. The former route is recom- 
mended. 

There are three roads to Concord, on all which 
there are stag-e coaches. (All necessary information 
concerning them, can be read ily obtained at the Hotels. ) 

The fiist is through Cambridge^ (where is Harvard 
University, see Index,) and Lexington. 

The second is through Charlestown, and joins the 
other on the Merrimack. 

The third is through Andover and Haverhill, Mass. 

The distance is from 68 to 70 miles, and the tare $3 50. 

Besides these there is a boat on the Middlesex Canal, 
which has heretofore left the upper locks in Charles- 
town, (two miles from Boston), three times a week, 
and goes to Chelmsford in about nine hours : 28 miles, 
passage 75 cents. This mode is not particulajly re- 
commended. 

Several places on these roads will be particularized. 

Lexington 

s remarkable as the place where the first blood was shed 

in the Revolutionary war. On the 19ih of April, 1776, 

jen. Gage sent a body of troops from Boston, to seize 

t powder house at Concord, belonging to the colony ; 

md the inhabitants were warned of his design, by an 

express despatched by the Hon. JosepI) Warren. The 

iiilitia were called out, but, the alarm subsiding, they 

-vere dismissed, with orders, however, to hold them- 

ielves in readiness. The trnemy unexpectedly made 

heir appearance at half past 4, coming on at a quick 

^;tep, within a mile and a quarter of the church. The 

I 'hrm gun= were fired, drums beat, and 50 or 60 mili- 

Ff 



o34 BOSTON TO THE UTHTK MOI >TA1>S. 

tiamen assembled on the parade. The British brigade 
halted about 120 yards from the church to load, and 
then passing: the east end of the buildings, discovered 
the Americans, who were ordered at the moment, by 
their commander, Capt. Parker, to "disperse, and 
take care of themselves," but " not to fire." As some 
of them loitered, the British troops rushed towards 
them, huzzaing. Major Pitcairn fired a pistol at them, 
when about 30 yards distant, after they had been 
called "rebels," and ordered them to lay down their 
arms and disperse. Another officer, who was within 
a few yards of them, then brandished his sword, and 
ordered the troops to " fire," which was obeyed at the 
second order ; and the fire being returned, it was kept 
up on the dispersing men until they had all disappeared. 
Eight were killed, and ten wounded. (Gen. Gage 
falsely stated that the British were first fired upon.) 

After the regulars had fired a volley, from the green 
behind the church, and given three cheers, they pro- 
ceeded to Concord. On their return, being hard 
pressed by sharp shooters, they burned three houses, a 
shop, and a barn, killed three more men, and wounded 
one. 

AXDOVER 

is a small village, situated on high ground, 20 miii - 
from Boston, remarkable for the Fhilips Academy and 
Theological Seminary ^ which are three-fourths ot a 
mile east from it, on the summit of the ascent. There 
are three large brick buildings, belonging to the Serai- 
nary, which "make a conspicuous figure from different 
parts of the surrounding country, and command a 
view of great extent, bounded on the west by the 
Temple Hills in New-Hampshire, backed by the 
Monadnoc, about 60 miles off; and on the south by the 
Blue Hills. A little elevation near by affords a view 
of the Atlantic Ocean, from about Newburyport tc- 
Cape Ann, with part of Salem; and north-west is a 



LOWELIu 335 

distant peak, which is supposed to be Ascutne}^, in 
Vermont. 

The academical buildings are distinguished by the 
names of Philips Hall, Bartlett Hall, and the Chapel. 
In the upper part of the latter is a library of 5 or 6000 
volumes. The Professors' houses are opposite, with 
a spacious green intervening between the Seminary 
and the street ; and there is also a large inn. The 
Academy and Seminary are not connected, although 
they are under the superintendence of the same board. 
The term of instruction in the latter embraces three 
years. The number of students in the former, in 1828, 
was 108. 

Haverhill 

is a small town, but pleasantly situated, on the north ' 
bank of the Merrim.ack, the shores of which, for some 
distance below, present a beautiful and fertile slope to 
the water. A draw-bridge crosses the river, with a 
roof to protect it from the weather. 

Lowell, 

12 miles from Boston. This has been one of the 
greatest manufacturing places in the United States, and 
one of the most astonishing rapidity of growth. No 
longer ago than 1813 the first cotton factory was 
erected here, which cost only about ^3,000. Larger 
ones were founded in 1818 ; and two years after, the 
"Merrimack i>Ianufacturing Company" made a pur- 
chase of buildings and ground, with the determination 
to take advantage of the extensive water power which 
nature has granted to the place. The falls are 30 feet 
high, and a little below the spot where the Middlesex 
canal commences, leading to Charlestown, near Boston ; 
and round them the Company improved an old canal, 
(at the expense of <^120,000,) for the supply of their 
water wheel^:. There i<a power enough for 50 facto-- 



oo6 BOSTON TO THE WlIITi: MO L' ATA I. \.-, 

Ties with 3,500 spindles each. The place now pre- 
sents the aspect of a large village, laid out and built 
with remarkable uniformity. The number of facto- 
ries is six, one having been lately burned, each con- 
taining 3,500 spindles. They are regularly disposed, 
with the avenues between the habitations abutting 
against the yard. In 1827 they used about 450,000 
lbs. of cotton, and made about two million yards of 
clot^ ; thiee-fourths of which was dyed or printed at a 
neighbouring establishment. There is also a large 
machine shop near at hapd. There had been invested,, 
in 1828, nearly two and a half millions of dollars. The 
number of persons employed in 1828 was about 1,600. 
In 1829, great calamities befell this, as well as many 
other large manufacturingestablishments in the country. 
Great failures took place, work people lost their em- 
ployment, and a general depression occurred, from 
which the recovery must be gradual. The manufac- 
tories of New-England, with few exceptions, present 
far less activity than at the period when the last edi- 
tion of the Northern Traveller was published. 

Chelmsford is one of the principal manufacturing 
places in the United States. 

Manufactories in JVew-Hajnpshire- So recently as 
1810 there were but 12 cotton manufactories in this state, 
with 5956 spindles ; and only about two million yards 
of woollen, cotton, flaxen, and tow cloth were made in 
them and in private families during that year. The 
number of cotton and woollen manufactories was, in 
1827, more than 50; and the cloth made was about 30 
millions of yards. But great misfortunes have since 
occurred. 

Great Falls Village is a village five miles above 
Dover, belonging to the town ot Somerworth, of 60 
or 70 dwellings, built within a few months, and four 
manufactories. One of these is for cotton, with 1500 
spindles, and makes 7000 yards No. 20 in a week. 
One for woollen, 156 feet long, with near 6000 spin- 
dles, and makes 16,000 or 18.000 yards of No. 40 



A'eekly. One is for broadcloth, 220 feet long ; and 
mother, 390 feet long, for cotton and woollen. 

Nashua Village, 

n Dunstable, 33 miles from Concord. The fall in the 
Nfashua river is 65 feet, and the power equal to about 
■(5,000 spindles. Here are some astonishing improve- 
nents. In 1825 there were two great manufactories, 
;ach 155 feet by 48, one for cotton and the other for 
voollen, with a dye house 150 by 48, a wood house 
vnd machine shop 250 by 30, &c. 

The buildings for the work people form small and 
egular villages. 

DOVEE. 

This is one of the principal towns in the state,* and 
ontains several manufactories, although the supply of 
i^ater is by no means abundant at all seasons. In 
rossing the bridge there are seen three large manu- 
ictories, each about two hundred feet in length ; and 
le foundation of a fourth was laid in 1825, although 
le contracted space afforded on the banks required 
le blasting out of a great quantity of rock for the 
}undation and sluiceways. 

About five miles above Dover, at Salmon River 
alls, is a village containing four manufactories, of 
ifferent sizes, from 63 to 390 {eei in length, and of 
ve and six stories in height. 

CONCORD 

^ the capital of New-Hampshire, and a very fine 
nd flourishing town. It is much the largest the tra- 

* The total of the mihtia of New- Hampshire is 23,415 men, viz : in- 
intry, light infantry, and grenadiers, 24,491 : cavalrv. 1.529; artillery, 
630: riflpmpn, 750" 

Ff2 ^' " 



;J38 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

veller will see before reaching the White Mountain*,, 
and for a great distance beyond them. 

Inns. — The two principal stage houses, just south of 
the state house, are large and commodious — that next 
the state house is particularly recommended. There 
are several others above and below, though of much 
inferior pretensions. 

The town is situated principally on one street, which 
is of a great length and very convenient breadth, with 
many respectable houses ; and runs parallel with the 
Merrimack, which ;s at only a short distance on the 
east. 

The State House occupies a conspicuous situation 
near the middle of the towri, a little removed from the 
street, and surrounded by a handsome stone wall, en- 
closing an area. It is built of hewn granite from the 
quarry, and is a neat edifice, 100 feet long, with a 
large hall on the first floor, and on the second the 
Senate and Representatives' Chambers, with the com- 
mittee rooms, state offices, &c. &:c. The view from 
the top is extensive, but embraces a tract of country 
too little cultivated to be rich, and too unvaried to be 
picturesque. At the northward are seen two or three 
distinct peaks, which may serve as an earnest of the 
magnificent scenery to be presented to the traveller in 
that direction. 

The State Prison is built at a short distance from 
the State House, and bears a still greater appearance 
of solidity and strength. 

There is an Academy in Concord, with several 
churches. Several newspapers are printed here, and 

fazettes from distant places may be found at the inns, 
'armer k, Moore's Gazetteer of New-Hampshire is 
the best companion for a traveller in this state. In 
1828, the Legislature of New-Hampshire divided the 
literary fund among the towns, to be appropriated by 
them according to their discretion. 

From what may have been observed of the granite 
roG^ks along the road, the stranger must have admired 



rneir superior qualit}-, and the freedom and precision 
of their fracture, wherever the wedge is judiciously 
apph'ed. Great quantities have been transported to 
Boston, and other cities farther distant, for building 
stone. A large rock, which was cut in pieces in 1823, 
sold for ^6,129 in Boston. This single rock made 
10,500 feet of facing stone and ornamental work — 
-and the aggregate weight of all the blocks (smooth 
hewn) was 550 tons, it having lost only 50 tons in 
being prepared for the maiket, after it was brought to 
the prison yard. The fine blocks broken oui of the 
old boulders, for the posts of tences, as v ell as for 
steps, mill stones, &c. must have shown the excellence 
of the granite of this part of the country. The same 
characteristics, in greater or less degrees, will be 
found to attend the whole of the granite range of the 
White Mountains, till its last appearance about Bath, 
on Connecticut river. It is uncommon, in this part of 
the country, to find a single rock formation extending 
such a distance without any interruption. To what 
different dates geologists may hereafter refer the 
coarsest varieties on Mount Washington, the disinte- 
grating rocks of Red Mountain, the boulders of 
VVinnipiseogee Lake, interspersed with their crystals 
of felspar three or four inches in length, and the 
white, fine-grained granite of Concord and Chelmsford, 
it is not for the hasty traveller to inquire. Doubtless 
many interesting facts will be elucidated, when scien- 
tific men shall devote their researches to the subject, 
and trace the boulders along the Ammonoosuc and 
Winnipiseogee Lake, to the rocks and mountains from 
which some long past convulsion has torn them away. 
The Merrimack River has been rendered naviga- 
ble, by various improvements, from Concord to 
Chelmsford, where the Middlesex Canal opens a com- 
munication directly to Boston, 28 miles. Small manu- 
facturing villages succeed each other along the banks 
wherever the canals round the falls and rapids afford 
water-pow^r. Some of them we have noticed. 



340 130STO]X TO THli WHITE MUU.\TA1A!<. 

In 1825 a plan was formed for extending the improve- 
ments, and to render the river navigable to Nevvburv- 
port, on the coast, by making a canal round the falls., 
near Haverhill. The expense was estimated at 
§200,000, and it was believed that the sale of water 
privileges would repay a large part of the sum. 

A direct water communication is kept up between 
this river and Boston, through the Middlesex Canal, 
by means of boats, which carry merchandise down 
for $5 a ton, and bring it up for $7. 

Roads. 

Several lines of stage coaches meet in this town 
three times a week. Three go to Boston, one to 
Portsmouth, one to Plymouth, one to Haverhill, and 
one to Burlington, by the way of Windsor. Another 
line has been established between this place and Con- 
Avay, on the road to the Notch in the Mountains. 

[From Plymouth a stage wagon goes through Fran- 
conia Notch to Littleton. The road follows the Pemi- 
gevvasset, through fine, magnificent scenery. The 
country, however, is almost uninhabited until reach- 
ing Franconia, where are iron works, and a curious 
profile on a mountain, called the Old Man of the 
Mountain. (See Index, Franconia.) There is an ex- 
cellent inn at Littleton : the new brick one. The 
place is about 40 miles from Plymouth.] 

[Two routes have been proposed for connecting the 
Merrimack and Connecticut : 1st, by Baker's River 
to Wentvvorth ; and 2d, by way of Sunapee Lake, 
810 feet above the Connecticut, and 858 above the 
Merrimack at Concord.] 

There is a road on each side of the lake towards 
Conway, but that on the west is recommended. At 
all events, the traveller should spend a day at Centre 
Harbour, to which the road is pleasant and the coun- 
try agreeable, altliough there are but few villages on 
'he wav. 



WH\NIPISEOGEE LAKE. J i i 

Two roads from Concord lead to Meredith Bridge 
Village — (Badger's) 24 miles distant : one by Sand- 
bornton bridge (Tilton's), 15 miles — the other by the 
Shaker village (Shaker's Inn and Coggswell's), 12 
miles. 

From M. B. Village, delightfully situated between 
two bays, and on the beautiful river that never freezes, 
it is nine miles to the shore of the Lake at Meredith 
Cove, and thirteen to Centre Harbour. (Center's and 
Moulton's.) 

For some miles before reaching that place, the 
;oucjtry begins to assume the features of bold and 
niountain scenery. Even before arriving at the lake, 
he prospect is varied with many of those noble ele- 
vations which rise to such a height of grandeur and 
iublimity as the traveller proceeds ; and the frequent 
glimpses afforded between the sloping hills, over the 
3eautiful lake below, by a happy contrast increase 
he effect. 

WINNIPISEOGEE LAKE. 

The number and diversity of the islands with which 
he lake is spangled, will be objects of particular ad- 
niration. They are countless for multitude, and in 
ize present all gradations between a single rock 
ind a surface sufficient for several extensive farms, 
ron ore is found in Gunstock Mountain, south of the 
ake. 

If a steamboat should be placed on Winnipiseogee 
j^ake, the traveller hardly need be advised to take 
idvantage of it to make an excursion. A company 
I .'as to be formed with this object. 

I Centre Harbour. 

' There are two inns here, at either of which the tra- 
eller may find himself comfortable, and where he 
n\\ be amply rewarded, if the weather be fine, bv 



o42 BOSTONS TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

stopping at least a day to make an excursion to the 
top of 

Red Mountain. 

This eminence may be about 1500 feet in height, 
and is accessible for about two-thirds of the way in a 
carriage or on horseback, though not without some! 
difficulty on account of the steepness and roughness 
of the road. Indeed, the path is very rocky for half a | 
mile or more before reaching the base of the moun-i 
tain, and the hardy pedestrian will prefer to leave his' 
horse at the main road, before turning off by the mill. 
The traveller should direct his course towards a little 
notch he will see about three-quarters of the distance^ 
up, where a cultivated field and a fence are visible. 
From the house situated there, he must turn towardsi 
the left, and follow a path to the summit. I 

An early visit is recommended, as the scene is much 
improved by an oblique light, and the morning is onl 
several accounts to be preferred. 

The following sketch of the scene was noted down' 
on the spot, and may be taken as generally correct. I 

JVorth, the eastern end of Squam Lake, and part of 
a pond lying near it, with the range of the Sandwich 
Mountains behind, stretching off towards the east, with 
numerous dark brown peaks, partly cultivated about 
their bases, and enveloped above with forests, except- 
ing their summits, which are generally divested oi 
verdure. Far beyond these appear several loftiei 
peaks, which might be mistaken for the White Moun- 
tains, were they visible from this point. An interme- 
diate peak with rocky precipices may be White-faced 
Mountain. 

East-North-East. The eye ranges up the spacious 
valley through which lies the way to the White Moun- 
tains ; and the road which is to conduct the traveller 
seems diminished to the dimensions of a garden walk. 
C'horawav. or. as it is familiarlv called. Corron^av 



\U:W tliOn llED MOTATAilv. .J45 

Peak, rises on the left ; while the noble ridge of the 
Ossipee Mountains begins nearer at hand on the right, 
and almost overshadows the observer with its enor- 
mous size. The sides of these mountains show a 
beautiful display of farms, interspersed with wood- 
lots and dwellings, which in many places have en- 
croached far towards the summits, and in others pur- 
sue the slope of the fertile uplands to the valley at 
their feet. Numerous elevations appear at a greater 
distance, and range themselves in lines to complete 
the perspective of a most magnificent vista, which 
finally closes at a ridge, whose shade is reduced by 
its remoteness to the colour of a cloud. A prominent 
and remarkable mountain, which appears scarcely 
less distant, is called Pickvvacket Mountain, and rises 
by the Saco River, near the place where Captain 
Lovel fought his well-known battle with the Indians ; 
and the tine valley between is the country passed over 
in that fatal expedition, both in the approach and the 
retreat. 

East. The view abuts upon the Ossipee Mountains, 
and no variety is afforded until we turn to the 

Soulh-South'East. In that direction, and farther to 
the right, the whole surface of Winnipiseogee Lake 
lies charmingly spread out to view, varied by nume- 
rous points and' headlands, and interspersed with beau- 
tiful islands which man despairs to number. Several 
distant elevations appear, on this side of which the 
sloping land just mentioned extends for several miles 
along the shore, with a well-cultivated surface spot- 
ted in all directions with large barns and tarm-houses, 
to the very margin of the lake. There numerous 
points run out far into the water, to complete the 
labyrinths formed by the islands. Gunstock Moun- 
tain rises one point east of south, just on the lett of 
»vhich opens the entrance of Merry-meeting Bay. 
The elevated land on the right of that is Rattlesnake 
island, named from the venomous reptiles with which 
H abounds ; over this the distant land appears high 



;>44 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUi^TAlK^. 

South-by-west rises a high hill resembling the Ossipee 
in the richness of its slopes. 

The South-West and West is agreeably varied with 
wood-lols and cleared fields, scattered over an undu- 
lated surface, which extends for many miles, in some 
places quite to the horizon, and in others to the broken 
boundary of tall but distant mountains. In the south- 
west appear two or three peaks, so far removed that 
they are almost lost in the blue of the sky. Nearly 
west are seen several ridges of inferior magnitude, 
which, approaching as the eye slowly moves towards 
the left, at length come near the lake, and disappear 
behind the neighbouring mountains. 

Long Pond may be distinguished by its shining sur- i 
face between the west and south, with several other 
little sheets of water, which lie in tranquillity under 
the shelter of the hills. 

Winnipiseogee Lake is 19 miles in length, from Cen- 
tre Harbour to Alton, at the south-eastern extremity. 
Merry-meeting Bay lies beyond. Several of the 
islands are large, and contain good farms and wealthy 
inhabitants, although only two or three of them belong 
to any town, or pay any taxes. Some of their names 
are Rattlesnake, Cow, Bear, and Moon Island ; also. 
Half Mile, One Mile, Two Mile Island, &c. &c. 
None of them contain churches ; and although they 
have no school-houses, yet sufficient attention is paid 
to the rudiments of education to render the children 
intelligent.* 

* Win lipiseogee Lake, according to surveys made by 3Ir. Baldwin in 
1825, is 501 feet above the ocean. It has been proposed to begin a canal 
from Meiry-mecting River, at the ?outh end, to Dover, a distance of 28 
miles, and to continue the navigation through this lake, and Long, 
Square, and Little tiquaw Lakes, to Merrimack River, making in ail a 
distance of 65 miles. It will bn necessary to raise the lake two feet by 
a dam at the outlet, and to cut to the depth of about 17 feel for 7 Tiiles. 
The estimates have been made for a canal of (he; j dimensions: tiS feet 
wide at the bottom, 4 feet of water, witli stone locks 12 feet in the clear, 
and 82 feet long. It will require 60 locks, which will cost $5,500 each, 
and the cost from tlie lake to Dover is computed at ^590,982. If con 
tinued thrpugli tlie lakes to Merrimack River, to meet a canal from 
Baker's River, the expense -"'ould be increase;! to iibont ,«731 47S. At 



SUUAM LAKE. o-io 

bquam Lake lies west from Red Mountain, and like 
Winnipiseogee Lake, abounds not only in islands, but 
in fish of the finest descriptions. Fine trout are caught 
here in great abundance, and of a size superior to those 
of the other lake. The trout of Winnipiseogee Lake 
vary from 1 to 4 pounds in weight, while those of 
Squam Lake are between 4 and 10. They are some- 
times caught of nearly double this size ; but that is 
very uncommon. The trout fishery is chiefly carried 
on during the winter, when great quantities are salted 
for the Boston market. Perch also abound very much 
in these waters, and are remarkably fine. 

Geology. The sides of Ked Mountain are covered 
with half decomposed granite. (On the south-eastern 
side of the lake a bed of porcelain clay has been dis- 
covered, which is probably derived from a similar 
source.) The granite is speckled with hornblende 
and black mica. No rocks are seen in situ, except 
near the summit, where they bear a gentle dip towards 
the north, and are slightly tinged with reddish quartz 
and felspar. 

The hue of the shrubbery in autumn has given the 
mountain its name. The sunjmit is strewed with loose 
fragments ; and musquetoes and black fiies often abound 
there. 

A few days may be spent at Centre Harbour very 
agreeably, in making shooting and fishing excursions 
in the neighbourhood, or in sailing upon the lake, which 
abounds in the most interesting variety of scenes. On 
leaving this place by water, at the distance of five miles, 
the White Mountains rise into view above the interme- 
diate peaks, and continue in sight quite across the lake. 

A few deer are still found in some places in the 
neighbourhood, but being protected by law, and still 
more by their scarcity, are very rarely taken. 



that point, tlie distance from the Connecticut, by Baker's River, is 3-1 
miles. Tlie facilities these works would afford tor manufacturing wonlri 
^e verv valuable, bin the number of locks will be a great objection. 



o4b BUaTON TO THK WHITE .^lOUNTAliNt 



Froj^i Centre Harbour to Conway. 

Proceeding north-east from Centre Harbour, you 
enter the valley between the two chains of mountains 
seen from the top of Red Mountain, and pass through 
Mouitonboro' and Tamworth. The surface is irregu- 
lar, and much of the land uncleared ; but settlements 
have extended far up the sides of some of the moun- 
tains, and farms are occasionally discovered quite at 
the top. The features of the scenery are bold and 
striking. 

Eaton Meeting House. Two miles northwardly 
irom this, Ossipee Lake may be seen by leaving the 
road ; but it has nothing very interesting in its ap- 
pearance. 

Near Atkinson's inn is the Lead Mine, discovered 
three or four years since. A shaft has been sunk 
about 50 feet, with a horizontal drift, and the ore is 
ffood. 

Conway, 6 miles. 

At Conway there is a house kept by Mr. Abbett, 
rit the dividing of the roads, which is comfortable, 
although heretofore without a tavern sign. The view 
of the White Mountains is very tine from this place, 
presenting a succession of lofty ridges, the most dis- 
tant of which are the peaks of Mounts Washington, 
Adams, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, and Quincy. The 
most prominent elevation on the right, with two sum- 
mits, is Kearsearge, or Pickwaket : a level meadow 
lies in the foreground, with an isolated, woody hill in 
the middle, and the Saco River, which rises on Mount 
Washington, and flows down a narrow valley, with 
many meanderings. 

The shortest road from Conway to the mountains 
leads directly to Bartlett : but the most travelled as 
well as the most agreeable route is by the way of 



CHALYBEATE SPRI:NG. 347 

Fiyeburgh, where will be seen the beautiful tract of 
level country thrc^u^h which meanders the Saco River, 
and the great Pickwaket Mountain, which rises from 
its border. That was the beautiful and favourite resi- 
dence of the nation of Pickwaket Indians, and on the 
bank of Lovel's Pond was fought a bloody battle be- 
tween them and a company of troops from Massachu- 
setts, in the year 1725. 

[It is probable that a road will soon be made round 
the north end of the White Mountains, through the 
town of Adams, to avoid the Notch. The land is 
level in that direction, along the course of the Andros- 
coggin, and the distance to Lancaster nearly the same. 
Whenever it shall be completed, it will offer a very 
agreeable route to the traveller, with fine views, but 
not so wild as those on the present route. 

The White Mountains are interesting, and worthy 
of attention from every side in which they are brought 
under the traveller's view ; and if any one should wish 
to visit them from the town of Adams, he may be 
gratified by pursuing a path not unfrequently trodden 
before. Mr. Stephen Meserve, of that place, has often 
obligingly favoured strangers with much useful local in- 
formation concerning the best routes and the principal 
objects of curiosity. The mountains present a steep 
acclivity in the direction channelled b}^ numerous 
avalanches which have rushed down at different pe- 
riods. The Pinkham road runs at their base ; and 
the New River may be seen, which has undergone 
transmutations which the Greeks might have recorded 
in their mythology. It was thrown out of its natural 
channel in 1776, by an immense slide, or avalanche ; 
and has been restored to it by that of 1826, whose ra- 
vages are so wide-spread and tremendous.] 

The Chalybeate Si'Ring. 

Turn off from the road to the west about 2 miles 
north of Abbett's. cross the Saco. and enter a field. 



348 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAIJNS. 

where it is found. A house is kept in the neighbour- 
hood by Mrs. McMillan, which has been lately over- 
flowing with visiters during the warm season. The 
country abounds in scenes attractive to persons of 
taste. A little church is situated in a secluded and 
■romantic valley ; and the place is destined for a 
fashionable resort. 

The place is off the road, and may be missed. It 
is in a valley^ with mountains on every side except 
the south-east. From near the church, the White 
Mountains are in sight. Two or three miles a})ove, 
the Saco valley bends to the left, and Ellis's River 
comes down a narrower vale in front. Up the course 
of this stream was formerly a route by which the 
highest peaks were ascended. A footpath leaves it 
in Adams, and goes on to Shelburne, he. It is 7. miles. 
to Hall's, in Bartlett. 

Fryeburgh. 

The township of Fryeburgh, in its extent of six 
square miles, embraces a rich and beautiful valley, 
secluded on every side by a wild and mountainous 
range of country. The Saco River, taking its rise on 
Mount Washir)gton, and flowing through the Notch in 
the White Hills, passes down the valley to Conway, 
where it finds the termination of the southern range ; 
and then turning abruptly to the east, soon enters ihe 
charming meadows of Fryeburgh, and performs a ser- 
pentine course of no less than 36 miles within the 
limits of the township. 

The Indian Fort was on a gentle hill at the western 
side of the village, ahich commands a view of the 
Saco valley six miles up its course, and six miles down. 

Lovel's Pond 

is on an isthmus, about one mile south-east from the 
■s'illage. and is memorable as the scene of one of the 



lovel's expedition- 34y 

most severe and disastrous battles in the old partisan 
warfare against the Indians. 

The Portland Road passes along the western side 
of the pond, and at present affords a view of it only 
from that part of the high ground which is near its 
north end. This, however, was the place of the 
action. Another road runs very near the north shore ; 
and it is a pleasant ride to the place. 

Lovel's Expedition. 

In 1725, Captain Lovel was induced to undertake a 
secret expedition through the wilderness against the 
Pickwaket tribe of Indians, who, instigated by the 
French, had committed many depredations on the 
frontier, so that the general court of Massachusetts had 
offered 100 pounds each for their scalps. His com- 
pany consisted of 30 or 40 men, many of them accus- 
tomed to the life of hardy hunters and settlers, with 
young Mr. Frye for their chaplain, whose history was 
somewhat romantic, and from whom this town received 
its name. 

They passed up Winnipiseogee Lake, then to 
Ossipee Pond, where they built a blockhouse, and 
placed their stores ; then following up the course of 
the Saco, encamped at the mouth of Mill Brook at the 
north-west corner of Lovel's Pond, on the night pre- 
ceding the battle, intending to cross the isthmus, 
(which is reduced by the pond to the breadth of Is 
miles,) and fall upon the Indian Fort. 

The next morning they deviated from their route, 
and the great body of Indians having discovered the 
encampment, and the way they had gone, formed an 
ambush, fired upon them on their return, and killed 
eight men. The white men retreated to the north-east 
corner of the pond, where is a narrow strip of land, 
and defended themselves till night ; and the remains 
of the unfortunate expedition returned through the 
Ur:oBt. suffering from hunger and fatigue, and some c; 



360 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOIIjN TAINS. 

them from wounds. One of the first wounded escaped 
by getting into a canoe, which was driven across the 
pond by a north wind ; but a fugitive, who reached 
the blockhouse at Ossipee Lake, reported that the ex- 
pedition had been entirely cut off, so that the garrison 
hastily removed the provisions, and thus increased the 
sufferings of the survivors. 

The Stage Coach from Conway to Portland passes 
through Fryeburgn early in the morning, one or per- 
haps more days in the week, and arrives nt Portland 
the same evening, by Hiram, Baldwin, Standish, and 
Gorham. 

The coach to Concord goes through Conway. 

[Pa7'is is a pleasant and tiourishing town, about 35 
miles east from Fiyeburgh ; but the roads and the 
inns in that part of the country are generally poor.] 

A tremendous catastrophe occurred among the 
White Mountains on the night of Aug. 28th, 1826. A 
storm of rain, unprecedented within the memory of 
the oldest inhabitants, deluged the principal peaks of 
the mountains, and poured such an inundation upon 
the valleys and plains below, that it is commonly at- 
tributed to the " bursting of a cloud ;" although that 
expression is a very ill-defined one. The effects pro- 
duced by the flood will remain for centuries ; and as 
many of these lie exposed to the eye, the route will 
offer many new objects interesting to an intelligent 
traveller. It will afford him a very desirable oppor- 
tunity to observe, in some places, the structure of the 
mountains, where Jieir interior has been laid bare by 
the falling of vast quantities of earth and rocks ; and 
in others, exemplifications to confirm the modern geog- 
nosticaf theories, to explain the phenomena observable 
in valleys, plains, and the courses of rivers. Geolo- 
gists and mineralogists, too, may expect to meet with 
curious and valuable specimens, among the enormous 
wrecks they will observe on either hand. 

The inundation was so great and so sudden, that the 
channels! of the streams were totally insufficient to 



THE OL-.NDATIO?^ OF l}j2b\ o5J 

admit oi the passage of the water, which conse- 
quently overflowed the little level valleys at the feet 
of the mountains. Innumerable torrents immediately 
formed on all sides ; and such deep trenches were cut. 
by the rushing water, that vast bodies of earth and 
stones fell from the mountains, bearing with them the 
forests that had covered them for ages. Some of these 
"slides," as they are here popularly denomii.aied, 
(known among the Alps as " avalanches de terre^'''') are 
supposed to have been half a mile in breadth, and 
from one to five miles in length. Scarcely any natural 
occurrence can be imagined more sublime ; and 
among the devastation which it has left to testify the 
power of the elements, the traveller will be filled with 
awe at the thought of that Being by whom they are 
controlled and directed. 

The streams brought away with them immense 
quantities of earth and sand, which the turbid water 
deposited, when any obstacle threw it back, in tem- 
porary ponds and lakes. The forest trees were also 
noated down, and may now be observed in great num- 
bers, frequently several miles from the places where 
they were rooted up. The timber was often marked 
with deep grooves and trenches, made by the rocks 
which passed over them during their descent from the 
mountains ; and great heaps of trees are deposited in 
some places, while in others, the soil of the little 
meadows is buried with earth, sand, or rocks, to the 
depth of several feet. 

The turnpike road leading through this romantic 
country, was twenty miles in length, but was almost 
entirely destroyed. Twenty-one of the twenty-three 
bridges upon it were demolished ; one of them, built 
with stone, cost $1000. In some places, the Saco river 
ran along the road, and cut down deep channels. 

The Willey House was the scene of a most melan- 
choly tragedy on the night above mentioned, when 
this inundation occurred. Several days previously, a 
brge " slide" came down from the mountains behind 



352 THE WHITE MOITNTAIISS. 

it, and passed so near as to cause great alarm, without 
any injury to the inmates. The house was occupied 
by Mr. Calvin Willey, whose wife was a young wo- 
man of a very interesting character, and of an educa- 
tion not to be looked for in so wild a region. They 
had a number of young children, and their family at 
the time included several other persons, amounting in 
all to eleven. They were waked in the night by the 
noise of the storm, or more probably, by the second 
descent of avalanches from the neighbouring moun- 
tains ; and fled in their night clothes from the house to 
seek their safety, but thus threw themselves in the way 
of destruction. One of the slides, 100 feet high, 
stopped within 3 feet of the house. Another took 
away the barn, and overwhelmed the family. Nothing 
was found of them for son.e time : their clothes were 
lying at their bedsides, the house not having been 
started on its foundation : an immense heap of earth 
and timber, which had slid down,havingstopped before 
it touched it ; and they had a 1 been crushed on leaving 
the door, or borne away with the water that overflowed 
the meadow. The bodies of several of them were 
never found. A catastrophe so melancholy, and at the 
same time so singular in its circumstances, has hardly 
ever occurred. It will always furnish the traveller 
with a melancholy subject of reflection. 

Bartleti is a comfortable village, situated in a rich 
valley, or interval, of about 300 acres, where the view 
is bounded on every side by near and lofty mountains. 
The inn of the place is kept by ' Judge Hall.' There 
is another interval among the mountains westward, 
which, although it contains much good cleared land, 
has been converted into a common, in consequence of 
the difficulty of making a good road to it. Pursuing 
still the course of the narrow valley, against the cur- 
rent of the Saco, the country is found uncleared, except 
two or three pretty little meadows ; and destitute ot 
inhabitants, excepting only three or four poor families, 
vmiil rirrlvins: at 



nancy's hill 



Crawford's Farm, 

seven and a half miles south of the Notch. Here the 
traveller will be cheerfully and comfortably enter- 
tained, although the house does not wear the sign of 
an inn. The water rose in this house t'Ao feet in the 
flood of 1826. This is the place from which visiters 
formerly began their excursions to the summit of the 
mountains : but the best place is at the new house at 
the Notch. 

Prospect Mountain, one of the principal peaks, pre- 
sents itself to view a little before arriving at the first 
Crawford's, with its smooth rounded summit of brown 
moss, rising several hundred feet above the region of 
vegetation, and offering an aspect which distinguishes 
these from the other elevations. 

The climate in this narrow valley is still so warm 
as to favour the growth of various trees which are 
scarcely to be found a few miles further north. The 
forests are here formed of spruce, ash, beech, maple, 
sugar maple, &c. Mr. Crawford has about 100 acres 
cleared, and raises Indian corn very well, which will 
not come to maturity beyond. His orchard contains 
700 apple trees. 

This is one of the principal stopping places for the 
sleighs, which pass the mountains in great numbers 
during the winter, for Portland, Boston, &c. There 
are sometimes 80 horses in the stables. 

Nancy^s Hill is a small elevation a few miles north 
of this place. In 1773, a young woman of respectable 
connexions, who accompanied a family of settlers to 
Dartmouth (now Jefferson,) set out in the winter to 
return to Portsmouth, alone and on toot, her lover ha- 
ving promised to meet her there and marry her. 
There was then no house nearer than Bartlett, 30 
njiiles. Nancy was found by some travellers in this 
sfpot. frozen and covered with ire, under a hut 



354 THE WHITE 3iOtJWTAI^!5. 

formed of branches of trees, which was the only shelter 
to be found on the way. 

The Willey House 

is situated in a secluded little valley about 5 miles 
north of Crawford's, and was long; the only building in a 
distance of 12 miles. It has sometimes been unin- 
habited during the summer season, though open, with 
its cheerless shelter, to all comers : in the winter a 
family occupied it to keep a fire, lodgings, and a little 
food, provided for the travellers and wagoners, who 
might otherwise perish for want of the necessaries of 
life. For an account of the melancholy catastrophe 
which has marked this place with an affecting and 
lasting association, see the previous remarks on the 
inundation of 1826. {See page 351.) 

The climate is so cold, that the land is not worth 
cultivating ; and although the place has been occupied 
by several tenants, no one would keep the house in re- 
pair, even rent free. There are no good uplands, the 
soil there being all gravel ; and the climate is sensibly 
colder than at the last stopping place. 

There is a place near the Jsotch, where the road 
suffered severe injury. It had been built up against 
the side of a mountain, on a wall 40 or 50 feet high, 
and about 30 yards in extent, at the expense of $500. 
This whole fabric was swept away by a mass of earth, 
rocks, and trees, which came from hah a mile up the 
side of the mountain, and rushing down at an angle of 
about 45'>, precipitated itself into the bed of the Saco, 
which is nearly 300 feet below. 

In repairing this road in the winter, the workmen 
had great difficulty in getting over the obstructions. 
They expected to find but little daylight at that 'ate 
season of the year ; but they found that the summits 
of the mountains received very earl}^ intelligence of 
morning, and the snows reflected it into the valleys 
and ravines. 



w 




I'HE xNOTCli. OOJ 

The road rises with a steep ascent for a considerable 
distance before it reaches the Notch, and the traveller 
observes two cataracts, one pouring down a precipi- 
tous mountain at a distance on the west side of the 
valley, and the other, which is called 

The Fluine, rushing down on the right-hand, and 
crossing the road under a bridge. The scenery is 
sublime and impressive beyond description. Just 
beyond is another Flume. 

About 150 yards beyond is the first great slide seen 
in coming from the Notch. 

The Notch 

s so narrow as to allow only room enough for the path 
ind the Saco, which is here a mere brook only four 
eet in breadth. It is remarkable that the Saco and 
he Ammonoosuc spring from fountains on Mount 
■Vashington, within, perhaps, 60 yards of each other, 
hough the former empties into the Atlantic, and the 
atter joins Connecticut River. Another branch of the 
\mmonoosuc approaches the Saco in one place, within 
■bout 600 yards. They are both crossed beyond the 
scotch. The head waters of the Merrimack rise within 
'.bout a mile and a half of this place ; and run down a 
ong ravine, little less remarkable than that of the Saco. 
The Notch Meadow. Here a house has been re- 
ently erected, at which the traveller will find accom- 
nodation, and where it is recommended to him to take 
p his quarters during his stay. It is situated on a 
j nail meadow, probably formed at an early period, 
! /hen the water of the Saco was set back and over- 
I owed the neighbouring surface, before the convulsion 
ccurred by which the Notch was formed, and a pass- 
ge was opened to it. The spot is probably the most 
dvantageous that could have been chosen on the road, 
DF a public house. It is sheltered by the neighbouring 
lountains, presents a level surface, and is within the 
I istance of a few yards of the remarkable pass which 



,')bi) THE WHITE MOliiSTAirsS. 

opens the way through the towering ridge soutiiward, 
iilong the avenue to the still distant regions of civili- 
zation. The change presented to one coming down is 
so sudden, that the mind is greatly affected. From 
the level surface over which he has proceeded by a 
smooth road, that bends along one margin of the 
meadow, while the Saco brook has been leisurely 
making the circuit of the other side, at a sudden turn 
round a rude projecting rock, he finds the meadow 
suddenly terminated, a dark and narrow defile opening 
beside, and the stream appearing and disappearing 
almost at the same instant, as it begins to dart down 
the steep descent which is opened at once to the cur- 
rent and the road. A traveller arriving at this spot 
from the westward, can hardly paint in his own ima- 
gination an o. • quate picture of the wild and magnifi- 
cent objects which await him along the route ; and he 
who has already passed among them will never be able 
to erase the impression from his memory. 

From a distance the striped and channelled ap- 
pearance of the mountains prepares the mind in some 
measure for the effects of the gieat inundation ; but, 
however great the effort the imagination may have 
made, the "fancy will here find itself greatly surpassed. 

A road was first made through the Notch in 1785. 
It was 50 or 60 feet higher than the present turnpike, 
and so steep that it was necessary to draw horses and 
wagons up with ropes. The assessment for the turn- 
pike was made in 1806. 

Two rocks stand at the sides of this remarkable 
passage, one 20, and the other about 30 feet, in per- 
pendicular height. They are about 20 feet asunder, 
at 6 or 7 yards from the north end ; then they open 
to 30 feet. The part which appears to have been cut 
through is about 120 iieet 'ong. The Notch meadow 
opens beyond ; and after a ride of 41 miles, the tra- 
veller reaches another comfortable house, kept by Mr. 
E. A. Crawford, where also he will be received and 
entertained. 



-MOUxNT WASIIlNGTOiV. tiot 

Ethan A. Craziford^s House. The master of the 
iiouse also will act as a guide, and is qualified for the 
office, both by his intimate acquaintance with the way, 
and the various kind attentions and amusing anecdotes 
with which he knows how to relieve the tediousness 
of the ascent. The best arrangement is to set out in 
the afternoon, spend the night at the wigwam or 
* Camp,''^ ascend the mountain early in the morning, to 
'lave the benefit of the view by sunrise, and return to 
he inn before the ensuing evening. It is 6 or 7 miles 
i the " Camp," 3 of which are passable in a carriage 
md the rest on horseback, though much impeded by 
he devastations of the great storm. 

MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

3 The ascent of the mountain was formerly a most 
i.rduous undertaking, and was very rarely performed, 
put several ladies have lately been enumerated among 

ihose who have gained the summit. The whole way 
;es through a perfect forest. The first 6 or 7 miles are 
ver a surface comparatively level ; but the last two 
liles and a quarter are up an ascent not diflfering much 
'om an angle of forty-five degrees. 
The time to perform the different parts of this ex- 
ursion may be estimated as follows : 

hours. 

From the inn to the camp, 2 

Thence to the summit, 2 miles and 93 rods, 2 or 2i 
Returning from summit to camp, . . . Ih 

Thence to the inn, 2" 

The streams of the Ammonoosuc River, which are 
' be crossed seven times, show the ravages of the in- 
idation of 1826, but a comfortable bed, and a fire, 
f the weather be chill,) will be found very welcome at 

II h 



558 THE WHITE MOUJVTAliNS. 



The Cami', 

62 miles from Crawford's. Here provisions of differ- 
ent kinds will be produced, and even cooked by a 
cheerful fire ; and if the travellers are sportsmen, 
and the season is favourable, a dish of fine trout may 
soon be obtained trom the romantic little stream which 
dashes by within a short distance. 

The ascent of Mount Washington begins just at 
hand, and the most arduous exertion will be necessary 
to attain the summit, which seems to fly before the 
stranger when he deems it just attained, and to look 
down in derision from a new and more hopeless height. 
The first part of the way is through a thick forest ol 
heavy timber, which is suddenly succeeded by a 
girdle of dwarf and knarled fir-trees, 10 or 15 (eet 
high, and 80 rods, or about 450 yards, broad ; which, 
ending as suddenly as they began, give place to a kind 
of short bushes, and finally a thin bed of moss, not 
half sufficient to conceal the immense granite rocks 
which deform the surface. For more than a mile, the 
surface is entirely destitute of trees. A few strag- 
gling spiders, and several species of little flowering 
plants, are the only objects that attract the attention, 
under the feet. 

The following heights are stated to be those of the 
different peaks, above the level of Connecticut Kiver 
at Lancaster : 

Washington, 5,350 ; Jefferson, 5,261 ; Adams, 5,183 : 
Madison, 5,039 ; Monroe, 4,932 ; Quincy, 4,470. 

Mount Washington is believed to be more than 6,400 ' 
feet above the ocean. '] 

In a clear atmosphere the view is sublime, and al- , 
most boundless. The finest part of it is towards the | 
south-east and south. Looking down the valley.' 
through which the road has conducted us, a fine sue- ' 
cession of mountainou"? summits appear for mar ' 



THE LAKE OF THE CLOUDS. 359 

iniles, extending beyond the bright surface of Winnipi- 
s-eogee Lake. 

I Towards the south-east also, the eye ranges over an 
extent of surface, which quite bewilders the mind. 
Mountains, hills, and valleys, farm houses, villages, 
;and towns, add their variety to the natural features of 
the countiy ; and the ocean may be discovered at the 
horizon with the help of a telescope, although the 
[Sharpest sight has never been able to distinguish it 
I without such assistance. In that direction lies Port- 
land, the capital of Maine; and nearer, Love I 's Pond. 
< On the north-east is seen the valley of the Andros- 
rcoggin River, which abounds in wild and romantic 
;;5cenery, and was the usual passage by which the In- 
idians, in their hostile incursions from Canada, used to 
, approach the eastern frontier settlements of Massachu- 
setts and New-Hampshire. Beyond, are the Ktardin 
Hills, near the extremity of Maine. 
i JVorth, the country is more wild and uncultivated ; 
and the Umbagog Lake is seen, from which flows the 
Androscoggin. 

West, the nearer view is over a mountainous region, 
[covered with a thick forest, through which only an oc- 
jcasional opening is perceived, formed by the farms 
I (or clearings) of the hardy inhabitants. Beyond, the 
I hills are seen to rise from the opposite shore of Con- 
necticut River, the surface of which is every where 
bidden from view, and the summits, rising higher and 
I higher, terminate in the ridges of the Green Mountains 
in Vermont. 
South-westerly is seen the Grand Monadnock. 
The Indians knew the White Mountains by the 
name of Agiocochook, and regarded them as inac- 
cessible, or at least represented them so to white men. 

The Lake of the Clouds 

is a little pond, near the summit of Mount Monroe, of 
beautiful clear water: and supplies the head stream of 



360 THE WHITE M0IJNTAI:N&, 

the Aranionoosuc River. This little current imme- 
diately ijbegins its descent, and dashes in a headlong 
course of several tliousand feet, into the valley near the 
encampment. 

Geology. Loose fragments of granite are every 
where scattered over the mountain, with some speci- 
mens of gneiss. The granite is generally gray, and 
at first fine-grained, but grows coarser as we ascend, 
and is occasionally sprinkled with small garnets. At 
the summit it frequently contains a little black tour- 
maline, sometimes in crossing crystals. On the sum- 
mit, also, some of the granite is tinged with red, al- 
though much of it is coloured bright green by lichens, 
dampened by the humidity of the clouds, and inter- 
spersed with thick and soft gray moss. The grain of 
the coarse granite is elongated ; and what strikes the 
visiter as very singular is, that not a single rock is to 
be found in its original place — every thing bears the 
mark of removal ; and this, taken into view with the 
precipice on the northern side, seems to indicate that 
the summit of the mountain has fallen down and disap- 
peared. 

The general belief now seems to be, that the lofty 
peak above us is the highest elevation in North Ame- 
rica, except Mexico and some of the Rocky Moun- 
tains. The inhospitable nature of the climate is such 
as to forbid all hopes of future improvement ; so that 
the feeling of sublimity, produced by the lonely and 
desolate character of this desert region, is increased 
by the reflection, that it is destined to be a wilderness 
for ever. 

The only places susceptible of cultivation in the 
heart of the mountains, are the little meadows inha- 
bited by the Cravvfords, the Notch, and Willey Mea- 
dows ; and there the interval of warm weather is so 
short in the year, that few vegetables can arrive at 
maturity, with all the rapidity of growth which distin- 
guishes such cold regions. 

To those who are fond of field sports, the forest*^ 



iiOAi»s. 36 i 

and rivers afford every advantage, during the brief 
summer which visits the valleys. Various kinds of 
wild birds and game are to be found in the woods, 
besides bears, wild cats, and deer. The moose and 
buffalo were formerly abundant among the mountains ; 
and it is scarcely thirty years since they were killed 
in great numbers, merely for their hides and tallow ; 
as the latter still are in the deserts beyond the Missis- 
sippi. Deer are common in the woods, and frequently 
are killed by the hunters. Sometimes they come 
boldly down into the little meadow before Crawford's 
house, and quietly graze with the cattle. The black 
bear are occasionally seen in the more unfrequented 
places ; but they will always endeavour to avoid a 
man. A large species of elk, here known by the name 
of the Cariboo, has nvade its appearance in the White 
Mountains within a few years ; but they are still very 
scarce in this part of the country. 

The weather is liable to frequent changes in the 
mountainous region, which is partly owing to the vi- 
cinity of the JVotch^ through which the wind blows, 
almost without ceasing, even when the air is perfectly 
still at only a short distance from it. From the situa- 
tion of the mountains, it is impossible that the direc- 
tion of the v/ind should vary materially in the valley ; 
and it is therefore, of course, always north or south. 
During the winter it is often very violent, so that not 
only the snow is prevented from lying on the path at 
the Notch, but the surface is swept of every thing that 
a strong wind can remove. 

The summits of the mountains are frequently in- 
vested with mist, when the sky is clear ; and those 
only who inhabit the vicinity are able to tell whether 
the day is to be favourable for the ascent. The mists 
sometimes collect in the valleys, and then present some 
of the most singular and beautiful appearances. 

Roads. There are two roads hence to Connecticut 
River; one over Cherry Mountain (very laborious) 
^.o Lancaster ; the other, shorter, through Breton 



362 EOUTli FROM BOSTO?< TO MAINE. 

Woods, Bethlehem, and Littleton, (rough and stony) to 
Bath, 34 miles. [See Index.] 

ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO MAINE. 

A line of Steam Navigation was commenced in 
1823, between Boston and Portland and Bath ; and ex- 
tended in 1821, about 250 miles from Bath to Eastport 
in one direction, and about 40 miles to Augusta in an- 
other ; and in 1825, agriin about 70 miles from Eastport 
to St. John's, in New-Brunswick, by proprietors resid- 
ing at Eastport ; and from St. John's up the River St. 
John's about 80 miles to Fredericktown, by proprietors 
residing at St. John's ; and in another direction by the 
Eastport proprietors, from Eastport about 30 miles on 
the Schoodic to St. Andrew's and Calais. Two boats 
were afterward put upon a line from Eastport to An- 
napolis and Windsor, in Nova Scotia. Another boat is 
run from Eastport to Dennisville, a distance of 20 or 
30 miles. The line before occupied, including all its 
collateral branches and ramifications, exceeds 500 
miles, and is now about 700 miles. 

It is proposed in Boston, to enlarge the canal across 
Cape Ann, to admit the steamboats, which will save 
15 miles, and give an opportunity to communicate, di- 
rectly or by smaller boats, with Gloucester, Newbu- 
ryport, Portsmouth, Dover, and Kennebunk. 

The boats go about 100 miles a day, and pass so 
near the shore as to afford many interesting views of 
the numerous islands, points, and bays, which abound 
along the coast. In 1826, the steamboat was burned 
on this line. The price was, from Boston to Portland, 
$5 ; thence to Eastport, $6,with a deduction for forward 
passengers. (The arrangements for 1830 not known.) 

There are coaches going to Salem every hour in the 
morning and forenoon ; and it may, perhaps, be conve- 
nient to take a seat in one of them, as Salem is well 
worthy of at least a day's delay. Indeed, if con- 
venient, the stranger will be gratified with several 



KEVERL\ , .563 

. I'ides m the vicinity of that place, particularly to M^r- 
I blehead. 

I 

Lynn, 9 miles from Boston. 

I This town is devoted to making shoes; great num- 
I bers of which are annually exported. Each house, al~ 
imost without exception, has a little shop connected 
i with it, in which the nnen and boys employ themselves 
I in this manufacture. There are in Lj'nn from 70 to 80 
■' manufacturers of shoes, and probably not far from 1500 
operatives. Some of the manufacturers employ 50 
; bands each, and one is said to manufacture 1200 pair 
^per week. This, if we allow 12 working hours a 
jdays, gives one pair of shoes about every 3 minutes. 
i There is a mineral spring in this town, which was 
celebrated many years ago. 

The Lynn Beach, of which mention has before been 
made, is in this town, and lies on the way to the fash- 
ionable retreat at Nahant. It is of hard sand, offer- 
ing an excellent natural road, but is impassable at high 
water. The bay on which it looks is one of the places 
where the famous sea serpent was seen several years 

3g0. 

There is a good inn in the town where the stage 
coaches stop. 

The country beyond is rather hilly and uninterest- 
ing ; but the road is good. 

Beverly 

is a town which joins Salem so closely, as apparently 
to form a part of it. It has a long street through which 
we pass, nearly at the foot of a high, barren hill. This 
eminence is remarkable in the history of witchcraft ; 
as it is the spot where numerous persons, condemned 
for that crime, in Salem, were executed. 



364 KOIITE FKOM BfcfSTOK TO MAINE, 



SALEM. 

The Lalayetle Hotel. 

This is one of the most populous, wealthy, and beau- 
tiful towns in New-England. It was one of the ear- 
liest settlements made in Massachusetts Bay ; and the 
planting of the colony is annually celebrated. Go- 
vernor Endicott, one of the most distinguished indi- 
viduals in the early history of this part of the country, 
resided here. The place was first settled in 1626. 

Salem was for many years engaged in an extensive 
and lucrative commerce, particularly with China ; and 
the appearance of the town is sufficient to show that 
it still contains a great deal of wealth. The harbour 
is fine, and the wharves still well supplied with stores ; 
but the trade of the place has materially diminished. 
The streets are generally too narrow ; but the banks, 
insurance offices, and churches are many of them 
handsome buildings. The Square is a lar^e and beau- 
tiful tract of ground, near the centre of the town. 
About it are seen many of the finest private buildings 
in the place, which, indeed, may be compared for size 
and elegance with those in any part of the United 
States. 

There is a High School in Salem, besides 18 public 
and 58 private schools. In 1828, the public schools 
contained about 500 boys and 300 girls. 

The Marine Museum is an institution highly cre- 
ditable to the town, being an association of respect- 
able nautical and commercial individuals, formed for 
the purpose of making useful observations, and col- 
lecting curiosities from all quarters of the world. No 
one can become a member who has not doubled Cape 
Horn, or the Cape of Good Hope, either as master or 
supercargo of a vessel ; and each of them is supplied 
with a journal, in which he is to note down such re- 
marks as he thinks important, dnrinc his voyages. 



MAllBLEIIEAD . i3 6 5 

These are submitted to the inspection of a committee ; 
jand the curiosities brought home are deposited in a 
'handsome building belonging to the society, which is 
well worthy the particular attention of strangers. 

Access is readily gained by application to any of the 
members: this extensive and highly interesting cabi- 
net being closed only for the purpose of security, and 
no fee being required for admission. The room is 
jlarge, well lighted, and filled with curiosities from 
|all quarters of the world, and many specimens belong- 
Jng to all the branches of natural history. The ar- 
rangement is made with great taste, and several hours, 
or indeed days, will hardly be sufficient for an exa- 
Imination of all it contains. 

J The following lines were written after a visit to this 
interesting institution, by Beltrami, a distinguished 
j scientific traveller, in the year 1827 : 

"Siste Viator! Siste, mirari ! est Orbis in urbe, 
"Et prsebet pulchrum cuncta miranda Salem. — 
"Obstupui, hie Superum, bine hominum prodigia 

vidi, 
" Pontus, Magna Parens, Ignis et Ipse favent. — 
" Oh, America : Oh, felix tellus, populusque beatus 1 
" Quam nobis tollunt dant tibi fata vicem. — 
The top of the hotel commands a fine and exten- 
sive view over the town and its environs, with the 
harbour, and the fine coves which set up on both sides. 
A Mill Dam Company has been incorporated, to en- 
close a tract of water near this town, to obtain power 
for mills, on the plan of the Boston and Roxbury mill 
dam. The receiving basin is to be about 70 acres, and 
^the power equal to 40 mills, 

Marblehead. 

♦ There is a good road to this town, which stands at 
^ ihe end of a rocky promontory, 4 miles south-east from 
I Salem. It contains a handsome square, and some ven^ 



/i6ii J?()ITE FKOM BOSTON TO MAINE. 

^ood houses ; but it is principally inhabited by fisht i- 
incn, Avhose manner of life precludes, in a great de- 
t::ree, the intellectual improvement generally so cha- 
racteristic of New-England. The harbour is a small 
bay, protected by barren rocks, and afifords shelter to 
the numerous tishing schooners employed in the cod 
fishery. The men and boys are absent from home a 
great part of the year ; as each vessel usually makes 
three fishing voyages, or ^^Jares,^'' as they are here 
called, every season. They lie on the banks until 
they have caught a load of fish, which are opened and 
salted as soon as taken. The vessels then return, and 
the fish are spread to dr^^ on wooden frames, called 
flakes ; great numbers of which will be seen on the 
shore. A few vessels still go to the Labrador coast 
for fish. There is a fort at the extremity of the town, 
which commands the entrance to the harbour, and af- 
fords a view of many miles over the neighbouring 
sheets of water. The islands at the entrance of Sa- 
lem are wild and rocky ; and the sea breaks over 
them with violence in an easterly storm. Towards 
tile south are seen several headlands of this iron-bound 
coast ; which, for a great extent, even down to the 
extremity of Massachusetts, must have appeared one 
of the most inhospitable to the pilgrims who began 
their settlements on this part of New-England. 

Newbtjryport. 

Stage House, or Merrimack Hotel, on the hill. This 
is a large, and, to a considerable extent, a regularly 
built town, 38 miles from Boston. The greater part 
of it lies in squares, and the best streets are built en- 
tirely of brick. What is commonly called Newbury- 
port, however, is composed of two distinct towns. 
The original township of Newbury includes that part 
%vhich reaches to within about a quarter of a mile of 
the shore ; and the rest, a mile along the water, where 
the wharves, the market building, most of the stores. 



Aiops, &c. are found, is all which is, properly speak- 
ing, called Newburyport, although there is no division 
but an imaginaiy line. 

The Court House makes a handsome appearance, at 
the head of a street running to the river. 

The monument of the celebrated Whitefield is to 
be seen in the First Presbyterian Church in this town, 
where his remains lie interred. 

The harbour is fine, and the place once enjoyed a 
brisk and lucrative commerce ; but it has suffered se- 
verely from two great fires, within a few years, and 
'still more t"rom circumstances which cut oft' the trade. 
A plan has been proposed for the improvement of the 
navigation of the Merrimack, which, if carried into 
effect, can hardly fail to produce results of great im- 
portance to the place. The falls at Haverhill cut off* 
the boat navigation, at the distance of about 12 miles ; 
but if these were avoided by a canal, the water com- 
jmunication would be opened to Concord, and a great 
I part of the products now sent to Boston, by the Mid- 
I dlesex Canal, would come to Newburyport. It is es- 
timated, that the work would cost about two hundred 
j thousand dollars. 

I Stage Coaches. The mail coach from Boston for 
I Portland arrives at 7 A. M. and returns about 2 P. M. 
[ There is also an Accommodation Line, which travels 
only by daylight. The Concord coach leaves here 
about noon. 

The late Timothy Dexter's house is now a tavern, 
about half a mile from the stage house on the road to 
Portsmouth. The garden was form.erly curiously or- 
namented with wooden statues of distinguished indi 
i viduals. 

■j Mackerel Fishery. It was estimated, in 1829, that 
j 92 vessels were employed in the mackerel fishery, 
' with a tonnage of 4,432 tons, and about 740 men, seven 
months and a half each year. 

The bridge over the Merrimack is a most beautiful 
structure, I^s length is 1000 feet : and it has four 



3(38 KOUTE IKOM UOSTOA TO MAliSL. 

arches and a draw-bridge, on the side towards the 
town. The arches are supported by twelve chains, 
carried over four towers in the form of pyramids, 31 
feet above high water mark. The bases of these 
towers are of hewn stone, 40 by 30 feet, built on tim- 
ber, each with a breakwater up the stream. The 
chains, separately, are strong enough to bear 22 tons. 
The bridge, with the road to Newburyport, cost 
.$66,000, 

Hampton, 10 miles. At Hampton Beach is a good 
hotel, which commands an agreeable view upon the 
ocean, and the shore about the Boar's Head, 

Portsmouth, 

62 miles frbtn Boston, 58 from Portland, 

Brown's Stage House. 

The environs of the town show many neat and 
pleasant houses of wood ; and the middle part of it is 
principally of brick, with some handsome public 
buildings, although the streets are generally too nar- 
row. It has been a place of much commerce. The 
old church is a specimen of old times. The Navy 
Yard, on an island opposite the town, contains two 
large ship buildings, one for frigates and the other for 
]ine-of-battle ships. 

The bridge across the Piscataqua, leads into the 
state of Maine, which was, until within a few 
years, a district of Massachusetts. The current is 
very strong. The navy yard is seen on the east, with 
the ship houses, &c. 13 ships of war have been built 
in this port since 1690. The Santee, 74, and Ala- 
bama, 74, are on the stocks. 

[Amcsbury is a manufacturing place on the Powow 
River, 3 miles from Newburyport. The river is made 
to drain se^^eral ponds by an arched tunnel du^ 
'brouffh a hill about a century ago- Thevf is a Nar, 



THE jNLBiiLi:. o6'd 

Factory here, oriojinally built by the famous me= 
chanist Jacob Perkins. A Rolling and Slitting Mill is 
ladjoining. Extensive Anchor Works, now standing 
3till, are on the same dam. 

The Broadcloth Factory, supplied with water by a 
dam below, is also not in operation. The Salisbury 
fYannel Factory has 2500 spindles, employs 80 hands, 
and makes 100 pieces of flannel weekly. They have 
built a much larger one at the upper falls. The 
{dmeshury Flannel Factory have a building 40 feet by 
130, 4 stories high, with 5000 spindles, 180 workmen, 
md makes 200 pieces a week. Houses for dying, 
bleaching, and fulling are on the wharf. There is also 
1 machine shop. Men receive ^1, and women 50 cts. 
1 day. 

, The building is 200 feet long, 50 wide, 5 stories 
iiigh, and will contain 10,000 spindles, and make 400 
Dieces in a week. All the Flannel Works in full ope- 
ration will make 35,000 pieces of flannel in a year, and 
employ about 1000 hands. 

There are several other mills and factories ; though 
he whole ground occupied is only 40 rods.] 

The country on this road is of a gently rolling form, 
generally very poor, without trees, and changing only 
rom sand to rocks ; and affords very few objects of 
nterest, except an occasional view of the seashore, 
ind several spots remarkable for their connexion with 
he history of the country. 

York. There are so:ne pleasant fields about this 
ittle place, but its size is insigniticant, particularly 
vhen contrasted with the anticipations formed of its 
lestiny at the time of its first settlement ; for the 
ground was laid out for a city, and the divisions of the 
I and still retain much of the regular form given it by 
:he first surveyors. 

The Nuhhle is a rocky point, 4\ miles from York, 
,vith a cluster of miserable huts in the rear, called, in 
ierision, the city, or metropolis of Cape Neddock. 
Tom a point of that name still further on. 



J70 UOUiK XN MAliM,. 

While travelling along this dreary country, near the 
place where a round hill of a peculiar appearance first 
presents itself in front, and then ^he ocean, the road 
passes the site of an old fort or blockhouse, built be- 
fore Philip's war. Nothing is now to be seen of it 
from the road, excepting a part of the old wall, which 
is built of large stones, laid with greater regularity 
than is practised now. A hovel stands near the wall, 
shaded l)y a few trees, about 100 yards west of the 
road. 

The Agattienticus Hills forn) a range some distance 
west. 

Lower Welles. There is a little harbour here, de- 
fended by a sand bar, with a narrow entrance under a 
rock ; but it is almost dry at low water. 

Welles. The sea ottcn breaks beautifully on the 
beach, in front of it.e tavern. Porpoise point is just 
distinguished in the north-east ; and the view of the 
sea is tine and refreshing. 

Three miles beyond is Breakneck Hill, over which 
falls a small stream, from the- height of 30 leet, about 
40 yards from the path. Here, says a blind tradition, 
a small tribe of Indians met an indiscriminate destruc- 
tion, in the following manner. Being on their return 
from their annual fishing excursion on the upper part 
of the stream, they despatched some of tl»eir number 
to make a fire on the rock which divides the falls, as 
they tbund they should not reach this place betbre 
night. The white men in the neighbourhood, by some 
means learning their design, shot the messengers, and 
then collecting the limbs of trees, made a great fire on 
the high bank below on V\e. opposite side of the road. 
The Indians, says the story, being deceived, did not 
attempt to stop their canoes in season, and were all 
carried over the falls and killed. A similar tale i? re- 
lated, with more appearance of credibility, of the falls 
on the Androscoggin River. 

The Fort was half a mile beyond, or a quarter of a 
mile north from the church. The site is distinguished 



PORTLAND. 371 

"by the angle of an old wall, built of large, regular, but 
unhewn stones, on the east side of the road. The 
marks of the foundation appear to be yet visible a little 
back, and the situation is very pleasant, with a smooth 
plain around it, and a gentle slope in the rear to a little 
meadow, where the settlers used to obtain their hay. 
The ocean is in full view below. This little fortress 
was once attacked by 500 Indians, who at first sup- 
posed, as was the fact, that the men were absent from 
home. The place was, however, very bravely and 
successfully defended by five women, who put on their 
husbands' clothes, and fired so warmly upon their in- 
vaders, as to force them to retreat. 

Kennebunk, 25 miles from Portland. Here the mail 
coach from Portland stops for breakfast. It is a small 
place, but once carried on a considerable lumber trade 
with the West Indies. 

Saco, fifteen miles from Portland. Just south of this 

village is the mouth of the Saco, which rises on Mount 

Washington. Cutt's Isl md of 75 acres divides the 

stream, just at the falls, and has been converted to raa- 

, nufactiiring purposes. 

The first manufactory erected by the company was 
intended for 1,200 spindles and 360 looms. It was 
destroyed by fire in 1830 : loss estimated at ^300,000. 

The soil here is very rock , easily furnishing mate- 
I rials for building:, which has lately commenced on a 
' large scale. The fail is about thirty feet, the water 

i^ abundant at all seasons, and there is a landing place for 
vesselsonlya few yards distant, which might greatly fa- 
vour the transportation of raw and manufactured articles. 
I The land bought in 1825 on the island with a portion 
of the water power, cost about ^100,000. Great quan- 
I lities of timber have long been sawn at these falls, 

^ PORTLAND, 15 miles. 

Mitchell's Hotel. The Stage House. 

The situation of this place is remarkably fine, occu- 



o72 EOrXE IN MAIXE. 

pying the ridge and side of a high point of land with 
a handsome, though shallow hsij, on one side, and the 
harbour on the other. The anchorage is protected on 
every side by land, the water is deep, and the com- 
munication with the sea direct and convenient. Con- 
gress-street runs along the ridge of the hill, and con- 
tains a number of very elegant private houses. There 
is also the Town Hall, with the Market below, the 
Custom-House, and a beautiful new church, with gra- 
nite columns. The steps are fine blocks of granite, 6 
feet by 9, brought from the quarry at Brunswick, 22 
miles distant, and cost about $40 each. This street 
rises, as it approaches the end of the neck, or promon- 
tory, to the Observatory, a tower 82 t'eet high, and, with 
its base, 142 feet above the water, commanding an ex- 
tensive and very fine view on every side. 

From the Observatory, south and south-west are 
several distant eminences : among others, the Agamen- 
ticus Hills ; north-west are seen, in clear weather, the 
lofty ridges and peaks of the White Hills in New- 
Hampshire, which are discovered at sea, often before 
the nearer land appears in sight. The country on the 
north presents little that is interesting, and the water 
nearer at hand is only an inlet of the sea. 

Cape Elizabeth is the highland on the south side of 
the harbour ; and the islands, which nearly close its 
entrance, are called Bang's and House Islands. Fort 
Preble stands on the former, and Fort Scammel, only 
a blockhouse, on the latter. It is proposed by the 
United States to expend ^165,000 in enlarging these 
defences. Due east is Seguin Lighthouse, which is 
visible in clear weather, 32 miles distant, at the mouth 
of the Kennebec. Nearer, and in the same quarter, 
lie numerous islands of various forms, and divided by 
little channels and bays, some of which are deep. 
They are generally covered with trees and rocks, but 
present a beautiful variety to the view in that direc- 
tion. Their number is not known, but is usually esti- 
mated at 365, to correspond with that of the days in } 
the year. .. ' 



POKTLAJSU. olo 

■ rhe intrenchments on the hill, west of the Observa- 
lory, belong to Fort Sumner, and part of them were 
made in the Revolutionary war. Und« r the bluff, on 
the water's edge, is Fort Burroughs. 

Falmouth (the former name of Portland) was burnt 
in the Revolutionary war by Capt. Mowatt, in the 
British sloop of war Canceau, on the I8th of October, 
1775, on the refusal of the inhabitants to deliver up 
their arms. About 130 houses, three-quart«:;rs of all 
(he place contained, were consumed, some being set 
on fire with brands, after a cannonade and bombard- 
ment of 9 hours. The old church is among the build- 
ings saved, and has the mark of a cannon shot in it. 
A small part of Mitchell's hotel belonged to one of 
the hou. es not destroyed. 

There are some fine stores and dwelling-houses in 
the middle of the town, and the shore is lined with 
wharves and shipping : for the place is beginning to 
prosper again, althout^h it has lost an extensive trade 
which it cannot recover. There is a small Museum 
n the place. At the Athensum will be found news- 
Dapers from different parts of the country, a library, 
^c. In 1827 there were 10 primary schools here, con- 
aining 1095 pupils. Four of the schools were on the 
nonitorial plan. There is a Female Orphan Asylum 
ecenlly established here. • 

Remarks to the Traveller at Portland. The Boston 
W[ail Coach leaves here every morning at 4, and 
caches Boston at 9 P. M.; the Accommodation at 8, 
ind arrives next day, stopping for the night at Ports- 
nouth.* 

'* The following prices were charged in the steamboats, between 

ifferent places, in 1828. 

From Boston to Augusta, forward cabin $4, after do. ^5 
From Boston to' Ratli, do. 3, do. 5 

From Boston to Portland, do. 2,50 do. 4 

From Portland to Hallowell and Augusta, 2 2.'5 

From Portland to Bath, I 00 

From Bath to Richmond, 50 

■ From Bath to Gardiner, 100 

i:^ From Bath to Hallov/ell and Augusta, •.•i".i«v. 1 2.5 

I i 5 



S74 KOTJTE IN iVIAl.NS. 

The communication with Dover, Concord, kc. i= 
easy, and the traveller going in that direction is re- 
ferred to the Index for those and other places in his 
way. He may take the route to the White Hills by 
Fryeburgh ; the road leads through a wild and thinly 
populated country, but is not devoid of interest. The 
stage coach reaches Conway in a dty by this route, 
passing through Gorham, Standish, Baldwin, Hiram, 
and Fryeburgh. 

The eastern and north-eastern routes only, remain 
to be spoken of The road along the seacoast is more 
uninteresting, passing over a rocky soil, and is recom- 
mended in going from Portland. The upper road 
leads through a considerable extent of fertile country, 
indeed the garden of Maine, and shows several plea- 
sant and flourishing villages, by which it may be more 
agreeable to return. The settlement of a great part 
of that region, still, is so recent, that the traveller will 
not find so good accommodations, nor so many objects 
of interest, as in many other parts of the U. States. 
The inhabitants, however, are increasing very rapidly, 
and great improvements of every kind are annually 
introduced, which produce a scene of great activity 
and prosperity, particularly between the Kennebec 
and Penobscot Rivers. 

Remarks on the Country North-East from 
Portland. 

In consequence of the position, the climate, and soil 
of Maine, the improvement of the country has been 
much retarded. Settlements were made on the coast 
as early as 1607, and several others not long afterward ; 
but they suffered severely in the Indian wars, and their 
vicinity to the French missions, which embraced all 
the eastern part of the present state, exposed them to 
imminent danger. In later times the population was 
principally confined to the seacoast, for the conve- 
nience of fishing and commerce, and thus the good 



REMAKKS ON TRAVELLl^NG IN MAINE. 37i) 

land, which lies some distance back in the country, 
was almost entirely neglected. After the revolu- 
tionary war, this extensive region remained in the con- 
dition of a district belonging to Massachusetts. Within 
a few years it h;is been received into the Union as a 
separate state ; and agriculture having been intro- 
duced, the emigration from the neighbouring states 
has rapidly swelled its population. In 1828 there 
were 33 newspapers in the state of Maine. 

In travelling in Maine, the stranger observes the 
same order of things as in the interior of New-York, 
Ohio, and other parts of the country which are fast 
improving. It is but a few years since agriculture 
was almost unknown here, and now the interior region 
between the Kennebec and Penobscot Rivers is well 
peopled, and presents a scene of rural cultivation and 
prosperity rarely equalled. That is of course the most 
attractive route for the traveller ; and the road from 
Portland lies through Augusta and Hallowell. Those 
who are going to New-Brnnswick, &c. are advised to 
take this route, unless they prefer the less fatiguing 
mode of travelling in the steamboat. 

Most persons going eastward from Portland, will 
wish to return ; and the brief tour which we shall 
give will be planned for their convenience and plea- 
sure, by proceeding first along the seacoast, and then 
returning through the fine tract of country in the in- 
terior. 

It may be proper here to mention, that two roads 
have been projected to Quebec ; one by the River 
Kennebec, and the other by the Penobscot. At pre- 
sent there are no roads through the northern wilder- 
ness, though a communication has been kept up that 
way for several years, and herds of cattle are occa- 
sionally driven into Canada. The hardy and enter- 
prising traveller may, perhaps, be willing to encoun- 
ter the inconvenience of lodging in the open air, and 
such fare as the wilderness aflfords : but few will 



37t) IIOUTE IN MAIM;, 

attempt the route for pleasure, until the intended im- 
provements shall have been made. 

For the distances of the principal places on the route 
from Portland to Quebec, see page 235, 236. 

Canals phojected im Maine. 

From Sebago Pond to Portland. This would re- 
quire an excavation of only 6 miles to effect a commu- 
nication between a chain of ponds or lakes, capable of 
furnishing larg-o supplies of timber, and many products 
of ag:riculture, if settlements were once encouraged. 

From the Androscoggin at Wayne's Mills, to the 
Kennebec at Gardner. There is a dead water naviga- 
tion to within five miles of the former, but then there i^ 
an ascent of 260 feet to the level of its current. 

3louTE FROM Portland to Belfast, Castine, 
Bangor, &c. 

Travelling round to the head of Casco Bay, you pass 
through North Yarmouth and Freeport, and arrive at 
Brunswick, 26 miles. This is the site of Bowdoin 
College, the principal institution of the state. It was 
burnt a few years ago ; but has been rebuilt, and con- 
tains a good number of students. It is pleasantly 
situated on an elevated level. 

There is a fall on the Androscoggin river at this 
place ; below which booms are extended across to 
keep toge4her the lumber which is brought down 
€very season in great quantities. 

The whole road trom Portland to Bath, 34 miles, lie? 
along the coast, where the soil is rocky and poor. 

Bath 

is a town of considerable trade, situated on the Ken- 
nebec, at the distance of 16 miles from the sea. Here 



EOOTH BAY. 377 

■ue several public buildings, and among^ the rest, two 
banks. If the arrangements be now as heretofore, the 
steamboat will leave Bath every day, except Sunday, 
at noon, and arrives at Augusta the same evening, 
touching at Richmond, Gardiner, and Hallowell. 
Woolwich is opposite Bath. 

WiSCASSET, 

14 miles from Bath. This is one of the principal ports 
of the state, and has an excellent harbour, at the mouth 
of the Sheepscot River. 

Stage Coaches run north to Bangor, on the Penob- 
scot. They pass through Newcastle, Nobleborough, 
Waldoborough, Union, Appleton, Searsmont, and Bel- 
mont. There are two branch lines : one to Thomas- 
town through Warren ; and another to Hamden, 
through Camden, Lincolnshire, Northport, Belfast, 
Swanville, and Frankfort. 

From Wiscasset to Damascotta is rough and rocky ; 
but the ride presents many interesting views, as the 
landscape is continually changing, and is often varied 
by the sight of Damascotta River, and several beauti- 
ful little lakes or ponds. 

Damascotta Bridge. Here is a considerable village, 
at the distance of 16 miles from the seacoast. 

Booth Bay 

lies off the road from Wiscasset to Damascotta. It 
has a commodious harbour, with a number of islands 
in the vicinity ; and the neighbouiing high ground 
affords a very fine and extensive view. The hill, on 
the eastern side of the bay, was surveyed for a city 
jn the early part of the last century, which was to 
have borne the name of Townsend, but the building 
of it was never begun. The harbour has been con- 
sidered a ^ood site for a naval depot. 
AntiqMities. Two or three miles off the road, be> 



o78 ROUTE IN MAINE. 

tvveen Linniken's Bay and Damascotta River, where 
was formerly an Indian carrying-place, the remains of 
cellar walls and chimneys are found, as also broken 
kettles, wedges, &c. At the head of the bay are the 
hulks of two or three large vesseN sunk in the water ; 
and on the shore, the ruins of an old grist-mill, where 
the present one stands. On the islands opposite the 
town, are other ruins, the history of which is unknown, 
as well as that of those already mentioned. The only 
fact which seems to afford any clew to their origin, 
is, that Sir John Popham made an attempt to build a 
fown at the mouth of the Kennebec, in the year 1607. 

Waldoborough, 10 miles. 
Warren, 7 miles. 

Thomastown, 

Central Village, 6 miles. Here are quarries of mar- 
ble and limestone, from the latter of which about 
100,000 barrels of lime are made every year for ex- 
portation. The marble is also wrought in consider- 
able quantities. A visit to the workshops may be 
interesting, as the operation of polishing is performed 
by machinery movd by water. There is a cotton 
manufactory on Mill River. The village is 15 miles 
from the sea. 

Thp State Prison stands in a commanding and plea- 
sant situation. It has 50 solitary cells, built of granite, 
in blocks from 4 to 6 feet in length, and 2 in thick- 
ness. Each cell has an opening at the top, \yith small 
holes in the walls for the admission of fresh air, which, 
during the winter season, is warmed before it is ad- 
mitted. The Warden's house is also built of granite, 
and is two stories high, placed in the middle, with a 
row of cells on each side. The prison yard is sur- 
rounded by a circular wooden paling, and encloses 
nearly three acres, in which is a lime nuarrv. Seve» 



ral workshops on the ground serve the purposes of the 
convicts, who are employed in burning lime and other 
manufactures. 

The Knox Estate. About half a mile from the State 
Prison is the ancient residence of the late General 
Knox. The mansion was three stories high, large, and 
elegant, particularly for a country so little cultivated 
and inhabited as this at the time of its erection. It is 
now in a stale of great decay ; but some of the re- 
maining decorations of the grounds may give an idea 
of its original appearance. The approach to the 
house is through a cypress grove ; and in tront of it 
extends a handsome gr^ss-plat. General Knox was 
one of Washington's principal officers, and acted a 
conspicuous part in the revolutionary war and in the 
government. 

From Thomastown to Belfast, (30 miles,) the road 
is hard, and commands many views of Penobscot Bay, 
with a few islands on the right, and a partially culti- 
vated country on the left, with some mountainous 
scenes. Belfast is a flourishing port, pleasantly situ- 
ated on the side of a hill. The road hence toCastine, 
found the bay, is 35 miles, passing through Prospect, 
Buckport, Orland, and Penobscot. 

Castine was taken during the late war by a fleet, 
and the Briti>h intrenchments are to be seen on the 
hill above. 

Eastport is important as the frontier post of the 
United States on the seacoast towards the British 
possessions. It is on the south-eastern part of Moose 
Island, in Passamaquoddy Bay, and connected with 
the mainland by a bridge. The spot was almost un- 
inhabited 30 years ago ; but now it contains three 
places of worship. There are fortifications and a few 
jiroops. A line of steamboats is established between 
.his place and Boston, touching at Portland, kc. 
1 Lubec is situated near the entrance of the Bay, op- 
losite Carapobello, 



380 KOUTE IN MAINE. 

Perry, the village of the Passamaquoddy Indians? 
lies northward from Eastport. 

On the Schoodic River the land is high, and the 
scenes striking. Robbinston stands at its mouth ; and 
Calais 12 miles above, at the head of navigation. The 
country north and west of this place is said to be very 
valuable for grazing, being undulating, with a good 
soil and climate, and at present well wooded, with 
conveniences for transportation by sea. 

The road from Belfast to Bangor lies along the 
course of the Penobscot River. 

Bangor 

is a very flourishing village, newly risen into impor- 
tance, in consequence of having taken a good deal of 
the interior trade from Belfast. It occupies a com- 
manding position for this object, and is undoubtedly 
destined to experience a great and rapid increase, 
proportioned to the extension of settlements in the 
upper country. The number of inhabitants increased 
between 1820 and 1825, from 1221 to 2002. The 
scenery here begins to assume much of that mountain- 
ous character, which prevails so extensively through 
a large part of the interior. A very conspicuous and 
noble eminence is observed at a distance in the north, 
called Ktardin Mountain, the elevation of which has 
never, it is believed, been accurately ascertained. It 
is considered the highest land in the state, and has 
been compared for altitude with Mount Washington in 
New-Hampshire : whether with justice or not, a scien- 
tific measurement will determine. 

In the year 1825 the land agents visited a tract of 
country inhabited by about two thousand persons, who 
had been before unknown as belonging to the state, 
having never been represented in the legislature, or 
included in any census. They are partly descend- 
ants of refugees, and partly half-pay officers, Irish and 
Scotch* The vast tract of wilderness intervening be- 



I'EUIPSCOT FAIXS. 381 

tween them and the lower country had prevented in- 
tercourse. Their country is rich and beautiful, on the 
St. John's River, near the boundary of N. Brunswick ; 
and many of them desired to be received into the 
jurisdiction of the State Government. The question 
has already caused much excitement. 

The opening of a road along the course of the Pe- 
nobscot to Quebec, by the vay of St. John's, the sur- 
vey of which has been authorized, for which the state 
have appropriated $5000, on condition that Massa- 
chusetts will do as much, cannot fail to accelerate the 
settlement of this country, and to increase the value 
and the products of the soil. It will also prove here- 
after a very convenient route for travellers going to 
and from Canada, and doubtless form a part of the 
grand northern tour, which will then be complete. 

Steamboats will be placed on the route from Bos- 
ton to the Kennebec. 

From Bangor we begin our return to Portland, 
taking the route through the finest part of the state of 
Maine. The road to Augusta and Hallowell on the 
Kennebec, lies through a region rapidly improving 
under the management of an active, industrious, and 
increasing population. The value of the soil has 
greatly advanced within a short time, and it is the 
grand centre of emigration. There is another road 
to Hallowell through Bath. Coaches travel each way 
three times a week. 

Augusta is a considerable town and very flourishing. 
It is siluaied at the lalls of the Kennebec, where the 
water on the descent of the channel is sutficient to set 
in motion several hundred wheels, and will probably 
be hereafter extensively employed for manufacturing 
purposes. 

At the mouth of this river, at Georgetown, beryls 
have been found, in a ridge of granite country. Some 
are 15 inches long and 6 thick. They are associated 
with schorl. 

Pegipscot Falls, Near Lewistown, on the Andre- 
Kk 



382 KOUTE IN MAIi\ii. 

scoggin River, is a remarkable cataract, where tiie cur- 
rent breaks through a range of mountains, and pours 
over a broken ledge of rocks. The scene is wild and 
striking, and derives an additional interest trom its 
connexion with the history of a tribe of Indians long 
since extinct. 

According to a tradition current in the neighbour- 
hood, the upper parts of this stream were formerly the 
residence of the Rockmego Indians, who inhabited a 
fine and fertile plain through which the river winds. 
The situation was remote, and they had never en- 
gaged in any hostilities with the whites, but devoted 
themselves to hunting and /ishing. The ground still 
contains many remains ot" their weapons, utensils, &c. 
They were, however, at length persuaded to engage 
in a hostile incursion against Brunswick, at that lime 
an exposed frontier settlement ; and the whole tribe 
embarked in their canoes to accomplish the enter- 
prise. The stream flows gently on for a great dis- 
tance, until it approaches very near to the Tails ; and 
this was the spot appointed for the night encampment. 
Night set in before their arrival ; and they sent two 
men forward to make fires upon the banks a little 
above the cataract. Foi some unknown reason the 
fires were kindled below the falls ; and the Indians, 
being thus deceived concerning their situation, did not 
bring up their canoes to the shore in season, and were 
carried over the rocks, and the tribe all destroyed toge- 
ther. Their bodies, it is said, were carried by the 
stream down to the village they had intended to at- 
tack. 

The hills near the falls afford many evidences of 
having been the residence ot Indians, who were cut 
off by the whites, in a sudden attack, many years 
ago. 



CITY OF WASHINGTO>-. 383 



WASHINGTON. 

Gadshifs Hotel, Pennsylvania Avenue. — NumeTous 
hotels and boarding:-houses also offer handsome accom- 
modations, particularly during the sessions of Con- 
gress. 

The seat of Government of the United States is 
situated between the Potomac River and its eastern 
branch, about a mile and a half above their junction. 
It is divided into three distinct parts, which are built 
about the Navy Yard, the Capitol Hill, and the Penn- 
sylvania \venue. The Capitol is an immense build- 
ing-, with two win^s, surrounded by an open piece of 
ground, terraced in front, and occupying an eleva- 
tion, which renders it a conspicuous object for several 
miles. 

The original plan of the city was very extensive : 
the principal streets meeting from all points of the 
compass at the Capitol, an bearing the names of the 
older states of the union. Some of the minor streets 
are known by the names of the letters of the alpha- 

, bet ; and tracts of ground were reserved tor public 
squares. As Washington, however, is chiefly de- 
pendent on the government for its support, the original 
scheme has been but faintly realized, and many of the 
streets have not even been opened. 

Durmg the ses>ions of Congress, the place is thronged 
with strangers from all parts of the country ; and the 
sessions of the Senate and Representatives, the pro- 

I ceedin^rs of the Supreme Court, the levees at the 
President's House, the parties at the foreign ministers', 

j &c. afford ample oppor'unities for amusements of va- 

j rious kinds. At ot'p.er seasoi s, however, there is little 
to interest the stranger^except^the public buildings and 

i the Navy Yard. 



384 CITY OF WASHINGTON. 



The Capitol 

presents, in the interior, specimens of various styles of 
architecture. Tlie whole front is 35'2 feet 4 i.iches 
in length ; and the wings are 121 feet 6 inches deep. 
The eastern projection is 65 feet ; the western 88. 
The huilding- covers an acre and a half and 1830 feet. 
The wings, to the top of the balustrade, are 70 feet 
high, the centre dome 95. 

Representatives' Room, greatest length, . 95 ft. 
Representatives' Room, greatest height, . 60 
Senate Chamber, greatest lensrlh, .... 74 
Senate Chamber, greatest height, .... 42 
Great Central Rotunda, 96 feet in diameter, and 96 

high. 
The North Wing was commenced in 1792, 

and finished in 1800, cost $480,262 

South Wing was commenced in 1803, and 

finished in 1808, cost 308,808 

Centre Building, commenced in 1819, and 

finished in 1827, cost 957,647 

^1,746,717 

On the tympanum is a statue of America, 9 feet in 
length, attended by Justice, and visited bv Hope. 

On entering the south wing, several colunms are 
seen, where carvings of Indian-corn strdks arr substi- 
tuted for flutings and filletings ; while the capitals are 
made of the ears of corn half stripped, and -disposed 
so as in some degree to resemble the Corinthian or 
Composite order. 

The Representatives^ Chamber is a fine semicircular 
apartment, with columns of a dark bluish siliceous 
pudding stone, hard and highly polished. It is lighted 
from above. The gallery is open during the debases, 
as well as the Senate Chamber, which is a much smaller 
apartment. 



THE PRESIDENT S HOUSilo 585 

The Library of Con2:ress is in another part of the 
building ; and the Great Hall contains the four na- 
tional f'ictures, painted for the government by Col. 
Trumbull : the Declaration of Independence, the Sur- 
renders at Saratoga and Yorklown, and Washington 
resigning his C mmission ; e.ncr 12 teet by 18. Here 
are also four relievos in marble, representing scenes 
connected with the history of different parts of the U. 
States: Pocahontas rescuing- Capt. Smith from death, 
in 1606, [f>y Capeilano,] the Landing of the New- 
England Pilgrims at Plyui. u!h, in 1620, [by Causici,] 
Wm. Penn's Treaty with the Indians, near Philadel- 
phia, in lfi82, [by f^evehtt,] and ■ battle between 
Boon and two Indians, in 1773, [by Causici.] 

There can hardly be found in the world a room 
better constructed for thf exhibition of pictures than 
this noble, grand Rotunda, the material of which is 
white marble, and the light admitted from the summit 
of the dome, which is 96 feet in height. 

The population of Washington City is estimated at 
19,319. There were erected 148 dwellings in 1829. 
The total number of dwellings is 3050. 

A fme view is enjoyed t'rom the top of the Capitol. 
You look alms: the Pennsylvania Avenue westward to 
the President's House, with Georgetown and the Po- 
tomac beyond ; the General Post Office, &c. on the 
right ; the N fvy Yard towards the south-east ; Green 
leaf's Point nearly south ; and south-west the bridge 
Dver the Potomac, with the road to Alexandria and 
Mount Vernon. The canal begins south of the Presi- 
dent's House, and terminates at the East Branch. 

The Presidenfs House is a large building of white 
marble, with Grecian fronts, about a mile west of the 
Capitol, and near the public offices. It is surrounded 
by a wall, but w'thout any other defence. The en- 
trance hall leads into the drawing-room, where the 
company are received at the levees. Two other 
apartments are thrown open on those occasions ; 
KkS 



0^6 GEOKGETOW>% 

all handsomely furnished, and freely accessible, even 
to strangers. 

The ratent Office is in the same building with the 
General Post Office, and well worthy of a visit, on ac- 
count of the nun)erou'=; curious mo<ieis which it con- 
tains, relating to all branches of the arts. 447 patents 
were taken out in 1829. 

The Treasury, Navy, War, and Land Offices, are all 
in the vicinity of the President's House ; as are the 
residences of the Foreign Ministers. The members 
of Cono^ress, as well as the numerous strangers who 
resort hither during the sessions, find lodgings in ihe 
hotels and boarding-houses in diflereiit parts of the 
city, or in Georgetown. 

The Chesapeake and Ohio Canal was commenced in 
1828, and is proceeding along the Potomac River, 
where it wili pass an'ong some very fine scenery, ai 
well as through some rich tracts of country. 

Steamboats. By steamboats there is a constant and 
convenient communication between Washington, Alex- 
andria, Mount Vernon, Norfolk (for ^8), and Rich- 
mond (for $12). 

GEORGETOWN 

is a considerable place, which, by its proximity to 
Washington, seems almost a part of that city. The 
country around it is variegated, and the situation of the 
Catholic College, a little way west, is picturesque. 
Still further in the s ime direction, there .'s a very 
pleasant ride along the bank of the Potomac, where 
Mason's Island is at first seen, near the mouth of the 
river, and afterward the Nunnery upon the elevated 
banks. On the north side of the road is a Cannon 
Foundry. It is proposed to form here a basin for the 
canal, which it is intended to extend to Alexandria. 



iibirNT VERN0^^ 581 



ALEXANDRIA. 



This is a lar^e city and port, six miles from Wash- 
ington, and contains some fine buildings, both public 
and privaie. The road which leads to il is good, in 
the pleasant season, although the country is little in- 
habited, and the soil is impoverished by the cultiva- 
tion of tobacco. This city is included within the 
boundary of the District of Columbia, and is at so 
short a distance from Washington as lo be a favourite 
resort, during the sessions of Congress. The river 
is here a mile wide, with a channel 1000 yards in 
breadth, where the water is 30 (eet deep. It is in- 
tended to have a basin at the northern part of this 
town, at the end of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal. 

MOUNT VERNON, 

the estate of the Washington family, is nine miles south 
from Alexandria, and is remarkable as containing the 
residence and the tomb of Gen. Washington. The 
road is somewhat intricate, and has but few inhabit- 
ants, so that the stranger, unless he goes in a steam- 
boat, will need to make careful inquiries. The en- 
trance of the grounds is distinguished by a large gate, 
with the lodge and dwelling of the porter. A wind- 
ing path conducts to the mansion, which is seen but 
two or three times from a distance. The rear of the 
house is first seen, as it stands on an eminence, looking 
down upon the Potomac. The buildings which pro- 
ject from each end, are the offices and habitations of 
the negroes. The house was lately the residence 
of Bushrod Washington, a judge of the supreme court 
of the U. States, and nephew of Gen. Washington. 

The key of the Bastile of Paris is hung up in the 
hall ; and a miniature portrait of Washington, from an 
earthen pitcher, is preserved, which is considered by 
the family the best likeness of him ever made. A 



388 MOUNT VEKNO:s. 

beautiful lawn, partly shaded by trees, extends from 
the front of the mansion to the verge of the precipice, 
\vhic.h overhangs the Potomac, an<l affords a delightful 
view upon the river, >nd a tract of hilly country above 
and below. 

This is the place to which Washington retired after 
he bad accomplished the independence of his country, 
and again when he had presided at the consolidation 
of the government ; voluntarily resigning the stations 
he had consented to accept, an ; the power he had 
exercised only for the good of his country. To an 
American, this place is interesting, in a degree which 
no language can either heighten or describe. Who- 
ever aupreciates the value of private and social vir- 
tue, wiJl rejoice to find it associated with the traits of 
a person ge so distinguished and influential ; the con- 
sistent politician will rejoice to reflect that his princi- 
ples of natural freedom were not restricted to any por- 
tion of the world, or any part of the human race ; while 
any one, who ran duly estimate the extent of the bless- 
ings he has conferred on his country, and the influence 
ofhis actions on the happiness of the world, will wish 
that his history may ever be cherished, as a model of 
sincere and disinterested patriotism. 

Washington's Tomb will be found under the shade of a 
little grove ofcedars a short distant e, south ward, from the 
house, and ne^r the brow of the precipitous shore. It is 
small, unadorned, and neglected. The great man, v\ ho 
had rendered to his country the most important military 
and civil services she ever received, left his mortal 
remains to be deposited in this humble cemetery; 
and that country has never yet expressed its gratitude 
by erecting a monument to his memory, though to her 
he devoted his life, and to her he has bequeathed a 
character, on which no attempt has ever yet been 
made to discover a shadow or to fix a stain. It has 
been recently proposed to remove these venerated re- 
mains to the Capitol at Washington. 



CITY OP BALTIMORE. o89 



[The Virginia Springs. 

These springs are the resort of numerous travellers 
every year, and present the combined attractions of 
healthi'ulness, fine scenery, company, &c. 

From Lynch burgh, in Virginia, the first day's ride 
brings the traveller in sight of the noble Peaks of 
Otter; — the next day brings him to the Natural Bridge, 
and the canal through the Blue Ridge — in a few days 
he can visit the Sweet Springs, the White Sulphur, 
Salt Sulphur (for consumptive patients), the Hot 
Springs, and the Warm Springs (the latter celebrated 
for its bath, and the prospect which the Warm Spring 
Rock displays). On his way to Staunton, he passes 
the Blowing cave — on the first day from Staunton, he 
reaches Weyer's cave, one of the most astonishing 
works of subterranean Nature in the world — going up 
the Valley, he will visit at Harper's Ferry the cele- 
brated j unction of the Shenandoah and Potomac. The 
country, through which some of this road conducts 
him, is not only remarkable for the beauty of the pic- 
turesque, but the fertility of its soil. The grass lands 
are uncommonly beautiful.] 

BALTIMORE. 

Barnum's City Hotel, an elegant building near the 
Washington Monument, was completed in 1827. It 
ss one of the largest and most commodious public 
houses in the country. It extends about 100 feet on 
Market-street, and 223 feet on Hanover-street. On the 
former opens the entrance to the private apartments, 
for families, &c. 

The Indian Queen Hotel — and others. 

Baltimore is the third city, for size, in the United 
States, and carries on an extensive commerce. Various 
projects have been made for improving the communi" 



0)90 ClTk OF BALTIMORE. 

cation with the interior, which is now limited. The 
course of the Susquehannah has been surveyed, with 
the intention of making it more useful in the trans- 
portation of merchandise. The current is now so 
swift and broken in many places, as to render the pas- 
sage often difficult and hazardous ; and it is hoped that 
great improvements may hereafter be effected by locks 
and canals, (f this were once performed, and a rail- 
road made f'om the river to Baltimore, the city would 
doubtless derive great advantage from the internal 
trade. 

The harbour of Baltimore, in the Patapsco River, 
has a narrow entrance, and is well protected by high 
ground. On the side opposite the city is an abrupt 
elevation of considerable size, where is a fort, and 
whence a coninjanding^ view is enjoyed. Baltimore is 
the greatest flour-market in the U. States. 

Fefrs Point is a part of the city, about a mile below, 
Avhere most of the stores and shipping are found. 
Many of the streets of Baltimore are broad, cross at 
right angles, and are ornamented w4th fine buildings 
both public and private. 

The Exchange is a very spacious brick building, 
erected within a few years. The Commercial Reading 
Rooms are the resort of merchants. The Athenaeum 
is a spacious structure. 

The Washington ALmument. This is a large column 
of marble, placed in a commanding position, in 
Howard's Park, ^t the head oi Charhs-street, rising to 
the hf^ight of 163 feet. It is 14 feet in diameter at 
the top and 20 below, with a b ise 23 feet in height, 
and 50 square. It is one of the finest o»onuments in 
the United States, and the only one worthy the me- 
mory of the trreat man to whom it is erected. The 
statue of Washington was raised and placed upon the 
top in November 1829. It is 15 feet high ; so thai the 
iieight of the top of the statue from the ground is 176 
feet ; and from the tide level 276. The situation is 
V'jry advantageous: being at the intersection of four 



BATTLE OF BALTIMORE. o91 

siieets, and so elevated as to be conspicuous from every 
direction. The area around it, tbr a circumference oi 
350 feet, is to be railed in with iron, and planted with 
shrubbery. The states are to be represented by de- 
vices around the base ; and inscriptions are to be 
added to record the deeds of the Fa i her of our 
country. 

The Battle Monument was recently erected in nne- 
mory of those who feb in the defence of the city in 
September, 1814. 

At the corner of Front and Pitt streets is a shot 
tower, 234 feet in height, which is a conspicuous 
object from a distance. 

The Public Fountain is a fine spring; of water in the 
western part of the city, surrounded by a public 
square, laid out in walks and shaded with trees. It 
is ornamented with a neat little building of hewn 
?tone, and furnished with handsome st^ps. To pre- 
5erve order at this place in warm weather, when it is 
jsually much resorted to, it is the custom to take the 
'ight in descending and retiring. 

The environs of Baltimore afford some pleasant 
,'ides ; and the communication with different places is 
;asy, by various modes of conv< yance. The most 
igreeable way of travelling to Philadelphia is by the 
teamboat lines, which go and arrive daily, with but 
I short distance of land carriage. Steamboats also go 

Norfolk, in Virginia, but the passage is uninteresting ; 
nd those who wish to see Washington (38 miles dis- 
ant) will go by land. 

The Mount Hope Institution is a school for youth, 
eautifully situated in the environs. St. Mary^s Col- 
tge is a Catholic institution. 

1 Battle of Baltimore. — This battle took place at 
iOng Point in September, 1814. Nearly 40 sail of 

I British vessels, comprising several ships of the line, 
rrived at the mouth of the Patapsco, and on the 12th 
inded between 7000 and 8000 men on Long Point, at 

I le distance of 14 miles from the city. Sixteen bomb 



392 CITY OP BALTIMORE. 

vessels in the mean time went up the river, and an^ 
chored about 2^ miles from Fort M'Henry. Gen. 
Smith had sent Gen. Strieker with a part of his bri- 
gade, on tiie road to North Point; and Maj. Raudal, 
with some Baltimore and Pennsylvania volunteers, 
went to Bear Creek, to co-operate with him. Gen. 
Strieker took position at the two roads leading to 
North Point, his ri^ht on Bear Creek and his left on a 
marsh. An advanee met the enemy, and after a skir- 
mish returned, when they advanced and joined in a 
general battle. After an hour and twenty minutes, the 
51st regt. gave way, and Gen. Strieker retired to his 
reserve, whither the enemy did not tollow, and then 
to the left of Gen. Smith, and took post half a mile in 
advanee of his intrenehments. He lost about 150 
killed and wounded, in this action, in which the citi- 
zens of Baltimore distinguished themselves. The 
British loss was computed at 600 or 700 ; and among 
them their commander. Gen. Ross. 

The bomb vessels which attacked Fort M'Henry 
were unsuccessful, being met with a manly resistance ; 
and the troops re-embarked and relinquished the enter- 
prise. 

Fort Erie is dismantled and partly blown up, in the 
state in which it was left by our troops in 1814. 

The Baltimore ajvd Ohio Railroad. 

One of the principal objects that will attract the 
attention of the traveller who spends a little time in 
Baltimore, is the great railroad, commenced under 
such flattering prospects, to connect the city with the 
Ohio river. Cars with sails sometimes go at the rate 
of 25 miles an hour, and can move within tour points of 
the wind. About twelve miles of it were completed 
in 1829; and various cars are in operation upon it, 
some moved by steam, and some by wind. The route, 
from Baltimore to the Potomac, 60 miles, will have 
hut a single summit, requiring stationary power ; and 



UALTIMORE AND ©IHO RAILKOAD. 393 

even the route up the Potomac valley, to the coal 
mines in Alleghany county, without another — in all, a 
distance of 180 miles— a thing unprecedented in Eu- 
rope. The work will be executed to Ellicott's mills 
early in 1830. The stranger will find a passage of a 
few miles very novel and interesting. 

The CarroUton Viaduct, which crosses Gwynn's 
Falls, about a mile from the city, is a fine specimen of 
mason work, and is said to be unequalled in the 
United States, for strength, size, and beauty. It is 
312 feet long, 63 feet 9 inches high, and 26 feet 6 
inches wide on the travelled part. The great granite 
arch of 80 feet span, springs trom abutments 20 feet 
in thickness, and 14 feet above the water. The key 
of the arch is 47 teet above the water. The arch 
stones are all of dressed granite ; the number of layers 
of stone is 87, many of the stones weighing two tons;^ 
and the parapets are coped with large slabs of 
granite. 

The Jackson Bridge is a single arch, 109 feet long, 
of entirely novel structure, the invention of Col. Long, 
of the Company's board of engineers. 

The Deep Cut through a high and broad ridge of 
lland, is about three-fourths of a mile in length, its 
i^reatest depth 70 feet, and its width, at the summit of 
I the ridge, 184 feet. Quantities of carbonized wood 
(Were found 60 feet beKw the natural surface, and the 

stump of a tree with its roots at 40 feet. The entire 
-^excavation is 263,848 cubic yards. 
< The Great Embankment at Gadshyh Run five miles 
jrom Baltimore, is nt^arly a mile in length, its greatest 
■I elevation 56 feet, and its greatest width 191 feet. At 
Ihe top the usual width of 26 feet is preserved for a 
llouble set of rails. 

\ Gadshyh Run Viaduct affords a passage to the 
' vaters ot the run through the embankment. The arch, 

composed of dressed granite blocks, is of the extra- 

)rdinary width of 120 feet from opening to opening. 

I The Patterson Viaduct is an immense structure of 
Li 



394 €ITY OJ BALTIMulii. 

granite, by which the road is carried to the oppojjite 
bank of the Petapsco. It is built of granite blocks, 
from one to seven tons in weight, and its entire length 
is 375 feet. It has four beautiful arches, the two centre 
ones each a span of 55 feet, with extensive wings and 
water- walls, abutments, &c. The height from the 
water to the crown of the arches is 30 feet. The 
corner stone ol this structure was laid on the 6th of 
May last, atjd on the 4th of December it was crossed 
on horseback by Wm. Patterson, Esq. for whom the 
honour had been reserved, and whose name it bears. 
It embraces nearly 10,000 perches of masonry. 

Besides these are the embankment at Stillhouse Run, 
two granite viaducts, the rock side cutting at Buzzard's 
Rock, «fec. &c. 

This is truly a great work ; worthy of the age, and 
highly creditable to the enterprise and public sj.irit of 
the company ; and from which the citizens of Haiti- 
more may very reasonably expect extensive and du- 
rable advantages. 

In passing from the valley of Gvvynn's falls to the 
Fatapsco, the excavations and embankments have 
unavoidably been very great ; the deepest cut is 79 
feet, and the highest embankment is 57 teet : the 
quantity of excavation between the city of Baltimore 
and the valley of the Patapsco, in a distance of seven 
miles, is 655,568 cubic yards. The embankments 
along the same distance are 628,629 cubic yards, 
making together 1,284,187 cubic yards. The masonry 
on the section within tl ■' city, and on the first and 
second divisions of the road, is upwards of 56,000 
perches of stone work, and is executed in a very 
superior style of workmanship. 

Along the valley of the Patapsco it has, in many 
places, been found necessary to conduct the road 
through extensive beds of hard granite or limestone, 
and at the Buzzard Rock the road has been carried 
through a solid mass of rock rising- 58 feet above its 
^•'-irface. . 



liALTDIORE AKD YOliK HAVEX RAILROAD. 396 

There were four routes originally proposed from 
I Baltimore to the valley of the Potomac. The aggre- 
' ^-ate height of the adopted one is only 885 feet— mudi 
smaller than the others. The road to the valley of 
the Potomac, it is expected, will be completed by the 
' end of 1830. It will meet it at the Point of Rocks, 
A portion of 50 miles may after that {!>eriod be com- 
pleted every year. The increase of business in Balti- 
j more will therefore be rapid, and a large addition will 
I be made every year to the attractions of travellers in 
that direction. 

The latest improvements bive been obtained from 
England, in relation to the ntode, materia-s, &c., for 
constructing railroads, by Mr. Jonathan Knight, Civil 
Engineer, and Captain Wm. Gibbs M'Neili of the U. 
' S. Topographical Engineers, with Lieut. George W. 
! Whistler of the United States' army, who were sent 
thither in November, 1'288, and minutely examined 
every railroad of note or consequence in the United 
Kingdom. 

In the first part, the inclination of the road will be 
at the rate of 15,086 feet per mile, or 9.8 minutes of a 
degree, ascending from Baltimore towards Cumberland. 
i Between Cumberland and the Ohio river, the probable 
j transportation to that stream is estimated at one-half 
j that of the transportation from it eastward; and the 
i general inclination of the road at 8 feet and 12 hun- 
t dredths per mile, or 5.29 minutes of a degree^ ascend- 
i ing towards the Ohio. 

A Railroad from Baltimore to York Haven, on the 
Susquehannah, has been commenced by the Legislature 
of Maryland. The distance is 60 miles ; and the esti 
j mate for the railway is $7,500 per mile. The addi- 
I tional expenses for making the bed, the sinuosities, &c. 
j would be considerable : but it is believed that 
i ^800,000 would be sufficient for the whole work. 

The greatest elevation between Baltimore and 

! Conewago is 35 miles from the former ; and being be- 

iwpen 900 and 1000 ^f^f^i above tide water, erives an 



•396 WILMINGTON. 

average rise of about 27 feet to a mile ; and tlie de= 
scent ihence to Conewago corresponds. It has been 
proposed to place 12 locomotive steam engines along 
this route 5 miles apart. 

The Susquehannah, above York Haven, has a fall 
of about 10 feet in a mile, and the banks are very favour- 
able to a railway. The Philadelphia and Susquehan- 
nah Railroad will soon be connected with this. A 
railway to the Susquehannah which could transport to 
Baltimore for three cents a ton per mile, it is said, 
would take all the business of the river. 

It was supposed that nearly 5i millions worth of 
property went down this river in 1826, in spite of the 
difficulties and dangers of the navigation. It is not 
to be wondered at that the inhabitants of Philadelphia 
and Baltimore should feel great solicitude to secure 
the trade. The sloop canal connecting this river with 
the Delaware is intended for rhe benefit of the former, 
as is the Union canal at Middletown, leading from the 
mouth of the Pennsylvania canal to the Schuylkill 
river. The Susquehannah has been greatly improved 
by various works in different parts of its course, (which 
are nearly completed,) and will permit the passage 
of boats of fifty or sixty tons to Columbia. The state 
of Delaware has rendered the navigation below 
Columbia comparatively convenient, so that wheat has 
been for six or seven years, on an average, within 12^ 
or 15 cents a bushel of the price in Baltimore. Foi"^ 
merly it was 50 cents. In 1827, ^100,000 was sup- 
posed sufficient to make a safe navigation from the 
Swatara to Port Deposit. In 1828, however, the Le- 
gislature of Pennsylvania forbade further improvements 
in that state. In 1827, 200,000 bushels of wheat went 
to Baltimore by this route. 

The bridge over the Gunpowder Creek, on the 
road, is remarkable as a fine structure, as the steep 
and elevated banks of that dark stream are for their 
wild and romantic appearance. The span of the arch 
is 125 feet. 

Wilmins^ton, Del. The Water Works are supplied 



KOUTE T<) OHIO. ci97 

troiii the Brandywine, by a steam engine and double 
forcing pump, on the principle of that at Fairmount, 
Philadelphia. The water-wheel is an overshot, 14 
feet 6 inches in diameter ; and the water that turns it 
is pumped up. The ascent from the river to the upper 
basin is 99 feet ; and both the basins together, hold a 
million of gallons. 

On the Brandywine river, within four miles, there 
are no less than 42 water-wheels employed in the 
manufacture of gunpowder, cotton and woollen goods, 
flour, paper, in saw-mills, and in the preparation of 
barley, and other matters, and with ample 'oom and 
water power, it is said, remaining, for at least fifty 
more. The Messrs. Duponts employ eighteen wheels, 
and manufacture 3000 pounds of gunpowder daily. 

The Brandywine Chalybeate Spring (Stanley's 
Hotel) is five miles west of the village, on elevated 
ground, and offers some attractions. 

The old Swedish church, built in 1698, by the early 
inhabitants of this place, is still to be seen, surrounded 
by larije sycamores. It stands near the Christiana 
Creek, nearly opposite the site of the fir-t place of 
worship erected here by the Swedes. That spot is 
now marked only by a few tomb-stones. This town 
was settled by the companions of William Useling, 
in 1631. 

OHIO. 

Although so far removed from the territory hereto- 
fore regarded as within the limits of the Northern 
Traveller, this new and flourishing state has recently 
taken so high a rank in importance, enterprise, and 
j numbers, that it will !»e visited by travellers of intelli- 
gence, disposed to witness the aspect of a country 
j which has been the theatre of a most rapid improve- 
I ment, and has already risen to the rank of the fourth 
state in the Union, in point of population. To such, a 
few brief remarks will not be entirely superfluous. 



>9B KOUTE TO OHIO. 

The following may be recommended as a general 
tour. 

First proceed to Wheeling ; down the Ohio river to 
Cincinnati ; across the country to Sandusky Bay by 
the western route in good stage coaches ; thence by 
steamboat to Detroit, and, if desired, onward to the 
western lakes. Returning, by steam, land at Cleave- 
land, and make an excursion on the canal (which, 
although about 350 miles long, is not very interesting). 
Then take steamboat to Buflfalo, whence the traveller 
may take what route he prefers. 

The mail, in summer, goes from New- York to Ohio 
h^ Philadelphia, in ten days, and by Buffalo and Lake 
Erie in five and a half. 

Only a few of the principal places on the tour will 
be noticed. In 1828, a steamboat of 110 tons went up 
the river to Oil Creek, within a few miles of Warren. 

Pittsburgh. — The Pennsylvania canal, when com- 
pleted, will connect this town with Philadelphia, by a 
navigable communication. The works connecting the 
present canal with the river, the aqueduct across the 
river, &c., will be worthy of particular attention. 
This is more like a manufacturing town in England, 
than any other in the United States. It would surpass 
our limits to enumerate all the manufactories here. 
We can only remark that the greatest iron works in 
the western country are the Juniata Works in Pitts- 
burgh. They give employment to 55 persons, and 
make 26,000 weight of nails in a day, consuming 425 
bushels of coal. 

In 1829, there were consumed in the different Foun- 
dries, Rolling Mills, and Steam Engine Factories, in 
and about Pittsburgh, six thousand ions of blooms, and 
five thousand tons of pig metal. These articles are 
brought principally down the Monongahela and Alle- 
ghany rivers. 

Th«re are nine Foundries, which use about 3,500 
tons of pig metal, and employ about 225 hands. 

The Rollins- Mills are eight in number, and are noTt 



tjiiefly employed in rolling Juniata blooms, of which 
they use about 6000 tons. They also consume about 
1,500 tons of pig metal, and employ about 320 hands. 
There are nine Nail Factories, which manufacture 
daily about 18 tons of nails, and employ about 150 
hands. 

There are also seven Steam Engine Factories, in 
which are employed about 210 hands. As yet but 
three steam engines have been sent east of the moun- 
tains, four or five to the northern lakes, and one to 
Mexico. Within two or three years past, the casting 
of sugar kettles, sugar mills, and small steam engines 
to drive them, for the planters of Louisiana, has be- 
come a very important branch of manufacturing busi- 
ness, and is increasing. 

In addition to the metal and blooms above mentioned, 
a large quantity of bar iron is brought to Pittsburgh 
from Juniata. 

The water was broug^ht across the aqueduct in 
Nov. 1829 ; and the preparations were almost com- 
pleted to connect the Canal with the river and steam- 
boat navigation. 

There is a turnpike to Erie, distance 125 miles, with 
a daily line of stage coaches. 

Zanesville will probably become great as a manu- 
facturing town ; being situated in a region well sup- 
plied with iron and coal mines, and streams of water. 

The appearance of the country along the Ohio at 
Wheeling is remarkably beautiful ; and the country 
has thence derived the name of Belmont. The land 
is undulating, and rises gradually for a distance back, 
affording many fine retrospects to a traveller in that 
direction, over a well cultivated region. Considerable 
quantities of tobacco are now raised here, which will 
be increased when the means of transportation are 
improved by the railroad. It is said that four dollars 
per cwt. will pay the cultivator. 

The falls of the Ohio were expected to be passable 
"fy the canal making on the Kentucky side, in 1830, 



400 ROUTE TO OHIO. 

The works are extensive and interesting; and t; 
facilities they must afford, highly important. 

Ohio Canal. — Accordinp^ to the report of the Com- 
missioners of this canal, made in January 1830, the 
northern division of the Ohio canal, extending from 
Lake Erie to the Licking summit, 190 miles, was 
nearly co npleted, and the whole line from Cleave- 
land to Newark, 180 uiiles, was expected to be opened 
for navigation early in the spring. The sum paid for 
constructing hat p.irt of the canal up to the first of 
Dec. last, was Jjl,916,:>24. The esiimate-l sum re- 
quired to comp'efe it was 21,201 dolls , exclusive of 
the naviiiable feeders. Cost (tf the Tuscarawas and 
Walhonding navigab'e feerjcis wa^. 48,7'21 .iollars. — 
Making thp whole co^t of that division of the c 'Ual^ 
including feeders and reservoirs, 1,986,271 dollars. 
Estimated cost of the Muskingum Side (^ut,or Branch 
Cut, 35,400 dollars. 

The whole line of canal between the Licking sum- 
mit and the Ohio river, 119 miles, an the Columbus 
feeder, 11 miles, was under contract to be completed, 
at different periods, before the first of June, 1831. 
On a part of it considerable work had been done. 
The amount of work done on that division was 
415,769 dollars. The total cost of that division was 
estimated at 1,501,213 dollars. Aggregate amount of 
money paid for constructing the Ohio canal, up to 
Dec. 1, 1829, 2,336,367 dollars— and the estimated 
sum required to complete it was 1,248,000 dollars — 
making the total cost of the Ohio canal, 3,584,367 dol- 
lars, exclusive of the expenses of engineering and 
superintending the construction. 

[The Legislature of Kentucky have incorporated a 
company for the purpose of constructing a railroad 
from Lexington to some point (not designated) on the 
Ohi'*; the amount of stock, 1,000,000, with the privi- 
lege of increasing it, at the pleasure of the stockbold-; 
ers, to 2,000,000. The price of transportation is to be 
regulated by the Legislature. The worjs. is to be com- 



STATISTICS OF 01110. 4Ul 

inenced within three, and completed within ten years 
thereafter.] 

[There are now enumerated three hundred and 
twenty-three steamboats upon the Mississippi and 
Ohio rivers, whose aggregate burden is estimated at 
56,000 tons — the largest boat measuring 500, and the 
most common size being 250 tons. A boat now reaches 
Cincinnati, ordinarily, in from ten to twelve days from 
the mouth of the Mississippi, while eight or nine days 
suffice to run from Louisville to Pittsburgh and back.] 

In 1827 the Portage summit was opened to naviga- 
tion as far as Cleaveland. This summit is the highest 
point on the canal, being nearly 400 feet above it. The 
elevation is surmounted by 42 locks. It is 38 miles 
from the lake. 

The whole Miami canal was opened early in the 
year 1828, with flattering prospects of success and 
public advantage. It extends 67 miles from Cincin- 
nati to near Dayton. 

Cincinnati. — This place is remarkable for the ra- 
pidity of its growth. In 1800 it contained a little above 
2000; in 1810,4000; in 1826 aljove 16,000 ; and in 
1829 above 25,000. There are 16 places of public 
worship; a Commercial Hospital, Lunatic Asylum, 
Medical College, and the Western Museum. There 
are nine printing offices, which publish nine newspapers. 
Here is published the " Western Quarterly Review." 
Heretofore the business has been done principally with 
New-Orleans: but the length and difficulties of the 
voyage, and the exposure to disease operate as great 
objections to it. 

Statistics of Ohio for 1829.— \cres of land, 15,878,171, 
valued at $41,193,000, including buildings. Value 
of town lots, including buildings, $8,230,985. Horses, 
178,319, valued at $7,012,760. Cattlf^, 719,596, va- 
lued at $5,756,768. Merchants' capital, valued at 
$3,940,156. State tax, $193,609. County tax, $173,- 
993. Road tax, $71,950. Township tax, $52,096. 
School tax, $47,899. 



'IOC' cits: or rniLADKt j-nr 



THE CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. 

Hotels. — UniteJ States Hotel, in Chesnut-street, op-' 
posite the United States Bank. National Hotel, op- 
posite the post office. Mansion House, in South 3d 
street, between Walnut and Spruce. Judd's, 2d, be- 
tween Market and Chesnut. 

Boarding Houses. — Mrs. Frazier's, in Spruce-street ; 
Mrs. Swords, Walnut ; Mrs. Allen, 6th, near the State 
House. 

Philadelphia is the -econd city; for size, in the 
United States ; and is remarkable lor the regularity of 
its streets, which, almost without exception, run at 
right angles, and are of an equ 1 and convenient 
breadth. Some of the public bui dings .'^re worthy of 
particular notice, as among t e finest and most correct 
specimens of architecture in ihe country. 

It will hr convenient to the stranger to recollect 
that the streets running north and south are named 
First, Second, Third, kc, l)eginning or» both sides of 
the city, on the banks of the Delaware and Schuylkill, 
until they meet at the square near the centre. The 
streets which run cast and west, are generally named 
after trees ; the lanes and alleys, after shrubs, &c. 

The JVJarket. — This consists of a succession of build- 
ings in the middle of Market-street, extending from 
the fish market on the river's bank to Eighth-street, 
affording room for a convenient display of the nume- 
rous articles daily brought in for the supply of the 
city. 

rest Office, Chesnut-street, between Third and 
Fourth. 

77te Bank of the United States, in Chesnut-street, 
between Fourth and Fifth. This is the finest specimen 
of pure Grecian taste in the United States. It is built 
of white marble in the form of a temple, with two 
fronts, each ornamented with eight fine Doric column?. 



oi the ancient proportions without bases. Besides the 
banking room, which is large, occupying ihe centre, 
and hghted through a glass dome, there are many- 
other apartments, particularly tho^e devoted to the 
printing ot^ the notes, and that below, which contains 
the furnace for warming it with Lehigh coal in the 
winter. 

Gerard's Bank, in Third, facing Dock-street. This 
building is also of marble, and presents a beautiful 
row of six Corinthian columns. 

The Bank of Pennsylvania, opposite, has two fronts, 
on Second and Dock-streets, each with six Ionic co- 
lumns. This is another chaste and beautiful building 
of white marble. 

The State House, in Chesnut-street, between Fifth 
and Sixth-streets, is a large brick building, with court 
rooms, &c. at either end. In the front room, east of 
the main entrance, the old Continental Congress held 
their sessions ; and there the Declaration of Independ- 
ence was signed, July 4th, 1776. 

The Athenceum is adjoining, open all day to stran- 
gers. 

The Philosophical Society'^s Library and Cabinet. 

Independence Square is a fine shaded piece of ground, 
behind the State House. Opposite in Walnut-street, 
is the State Prison, built of dark stone, and con- 
nected with a yard enclosed by high walls. 

City Library, Fifth street, open to the public from 
2, P. M. See Franklin's apparatus, and Cromwell's 
clock. 

The University contains a medical department, and 
the Wistar Museum, with a library, garden, &c. This 
Institution is considered the most richly endowed 
i among all those in United States. It has recently un- 
dergone a new organization. A new medical build- 
1 ing has been added, and the professors are numerous 
as well as respectable. The annual income is $15,000. 

Here is a High School, subservient to the Franklin 
1 Institute. The sreneral svstem of public imtriic^>'^ 



404 CiXY OF PHILADELPHIA. 

is extensive and of marked benefit. Infant Schoois 
are numerous, and the system has been ingrafted on 
some of the numerous Sunday Schools. 

The Arcade, in Chesnut-street, is a fine building of 
stone, with two arched passages leading to Lafayette- 
street. It is occupied for shops, and has galleries in 
the upper story. The Philadelphia Museum of Mr, 
Peale is in the northern part. It contains a large col- 
lection of curiosities of various descriptions. The 
birds are very numerous, but not well preserved. The 
huge skeleton of a mammoth will attract particular 
attention, bein^ represented entire ; for the parts 
which were deficient on one side, have been supplied 
by imitations of those on the other. 

Mr. Sully's Exhibition of Paintings is opposite the 
State House, and contains fine pictures. 

Washington Square is on the other side of Sixth-street, 
with a handsome church on the southern side, with a 
range of wooden columns. 

The Pennsylvania Hospital is a large and admirable 
institution, in the next street, where great numbers of 
sick are attended. Twenty-five cents wtll secure ad- 
mission to the building and gardens, and also to the 
top. 

Wesfs Celebrated Picture of Christ Healing the Sick, 
is exhibited in a neat little building on the opposite 
side of the street. It represents the Saviour surrounded 
by a crowd of persons in the temple, among whom 
are observed many afflicted with various diseases, 
pressing forward to be healed. In front is a paralytic 
woman borne by two men, whose healthy countenances 
form a striking contrast with her cadaverous aspect j 
and the painter has given a reddish tint to her (eet^ 
which seem already to have felt the miraculous influ- 
ence. A blind man appears behind, led by his sons ; 
and on the left-hand is an infant supported by its mo- 
ther, with a poor blind girl and other figures. Near 
the centre is a lunatic boy, rather too shocking a sub- 
icct for euch a picture ; and a number of Jewi=h Rab 



(,il\ Ol- I'MiLAi*!; Li'iilA . 405 

bis are collected, with countenances expressive of vio- 
lent passions. 

The apartment is admirably calculated for the dis- 
play of the picture, which is universally considered 
one of the finest and most interesting- in the United 
States. 

The Theatre, in Chesnut-street, between Sixth and 
vSeventh-streets, has a marble front, with the entrnnce 
under a portico, ornamented with statues of Comedy 
and Tras^edy. 

The Masonic Hall is a little beyond, and somewhat 
in the Gothic style, with a small court yard in front. 

The Academy of Arts, Chesnut-street, between 
Tenth and Eievenlh, contains a collection of statues, 
(among these are Canova's I'hree Graces,) busts, &c. in 
marble and piaster, rans^ed in an apartment lighted 
from the top ; and beyond a galleiy of pictures with 
many specimens of the works of American artists, 
particularly of Alston, among which is conspicuous 
that of the dead body restored to life by the boiies of 
the prophet Elisha. 

The Jejferson Medical College is in Tenth-street, be- 
tween Chesnut and Walnut. 

In Arch-street is a Theatre. 

The Orphans'" and the Widows'" Asylums* Me in the 
western part of the city. 

Academy of Natural Sciences. Pemi's house, Letiiis, 
court. United States^ Mint.^ &c. &c. 

Swaim^s Bath is in Seventh-street. 

;!!e report of tlie Dirpctor of the Mint, in 1827, states tliat Ibe 
fuinaee eftVcled wilhiii that year amounted to $3,024,342 :;2, consisting 
of 9,097,845 pieces of coin, viz. 

Of Gold, 27,713 nieces ; making $131,565 00 

Silver, 6,712,400 ' do. 2,869,^00 00 

Coi'per, 2,357,732 do. _ 93,577 32 

9,097,845 $3,024,342 32 

Tlie coinace eftsctfKl at the Mint durin? 1823, amonnLs t« .52,.?06,87.5, 
comprising $295,717 in gold coins, ,$1,994,573 in silver, and $16,580 in 
jcopfwr. The number of pieces of :ill kinds is stated to be $7,674,501. 
or flip sold liiiijion deposited wt tho Mint within the last vear. vho, 

yi m 



406 CIT!^ or PHILADELPHIA 

There are two Medical Institutions in tliis city, where 
lectures are delivered to great numbers of students. 

The Deaf and Dumb Asylum is a valuable institu- 
tion ; as is the Friend^ Alms House in Walnut-streety 
between Third and Fourth, where poor families are 
j^Iaced in separate houses, among small gardens, and 
furnished with employment. 

Mr. Bedell's (episcopal) church in Eighth-street, and 
Mr. Montgomery's, in Tenth, are considered the finest 
in the city. The latter is in a kind of Gothic style^ 
Near the Schuylkill is a manufactory of Porcelain. 

The banks of the Schuylkill* are well formed for the 
display of the large public edifices which will be per- 
ceived ranged along their eminences tor two or three 
miles, to tlie honour of Philadelphia and the ornament 
of its environs. 

A canal was projected some years ago between the 
two rivers, and was be2:un, near Fairmount. The pro- 
ject has recently been started again ; and it hds been 
proposed to make a canal 40 feet wide, 5 feet deep, 
and a mile and a half in length. The expense is esti- 
mated at 198,000 dollars. 

Mr. Pratfs Garden is about 3 miles north-west from 
the centre of the city, and worthy of a visit. It is a 
private garden, but tickets of admission may be easily 
obtained through respectable inhabitants. The situa- 
tion is agreeable and commanding, on a little cape or 

proportion received from Mexico, South America, and tlie West Indies, 
may be stated at 76,000 dollars; that of North Carolina at 21,000 dol- 
lars; and that from Africa 15,000 dollars; leaving about 20,000 derived 
from souices not ascertained. Tiie wliole amount received from North 
Carolina, to the present period, is nearly 110,000. This gold has gene- 
rally been found to exceed in fineness the standard of our gold coins. 

The whole coinage executed since tlie establishment of the Mint 
amounts to 30,465,444 dollars, 14A cents, consisting of 103,081,178 pieces 
of coin, viz. 

Of Gold, 1,538,101 pieces ; making $8,255,667 50 

■ ilver, 47,389,086 do. 21,695,809 90 

vopper, 54,151,931 do. 513,876 74^ 

103,081,178 30,465,444 14^ 

* The length of the permanent bridge from abutment to abutmeiif i 
"^4 f-ret six inrhe?— f hat of th^ iip^ter t'eirv 3r53 fee! 4 inche? 



PENITENTIARY. 407 

promontory on the Schuylkill ; and from ihe gravelled 
walks the visiter enjoys a view down the river, of the 
basin, the dam, the water works, below which are the 
State Prison, House of Refuge, Hospital, the two 
bridges, and on the opposite side a handsome seat 
€alled " Woodlands." These grounds were purchased, 
in 1828, for the site of a Poor House, on the plan ex- 
Pensively adopted in New-England. 

The Schuylkill Water Works. Pipes more than 32^ 
miles ; expense of raising, $4f per day. There is a 
]arge stone building of chaste architecture, containing 5 
large water wheels, which are capable of raising 7 
millions of gallons in 24 hours. They are turned by 
a current from the dam above. The reservoirs are on 
the hill above, which is higher than any part of the 
city, which it supplies. Th^^y contain together 11 mil- 
lions of gallons. The steam engine is no longer used. 
The keeper demands nothing tor showing the works. 

The House of Refuge was established in 1828. 

Penitentiary. This is a large and singular construc- 
tion, and built on a plan different from that which is 
at present most in vogue in this country. Tlie prison- 
ers are to be all kept in solitary confinement. 

The front of the prison is large and imposing;, like 
the gate of a fortress. The wall is 40 feet high, built 
of granite, and encloses a square 650 feet on each side. 
The rooms of the guard, keepers, and servants, as well 
as the cooking and washing rooms, are in the front 
building; while the cells are formed in seven (ong 
stone galleries, radiating from an octagon in the centre. 
The entrances to the cells are through little yards from 
the outside, and each has a wicket door in the gallery. 
A sentinel in the octagon, by turning on his heel, can 
look through all the galleries ; and the arched roofs re- 
verberate every sound, so that he can hear a very 
slight noise. 

This prison is built on a principle believed by many 
to be erroneous. Solitary confinement is a veiy un- 
equal kind of punishment t^ different individuals, iad 



40iJ CITY OJ-' PMILADELniiA. 

very expensive to the public. This is an extensive 
experiment on an old and exploded system. 

The Naval Hospital is situated about 2 miles south- 
west from the centre of the city. The expense is de- 
frayed by funds contributed by the officers and seauen 
of the U. S. Navy, out of their pay. The building' is 
on an eminence, commands an extensive view, and 
makes a fine appearance from a distance. The front 
is sac feet in length, 3 stories high, and will be large 
enough to lo'ijre 300 or 400 persons. The first story 
is of granite, and the 2d and 3d of marble, both which 
kinds of stone are found in abundance in the vicinity 
of Philadelphia. Several edifices are to be erected at 
other naval stations for the same objects, and supported 
by the same tund. 
. The Arsenal is situated just below the Hospital. 

The Navy Yard (on the banks of the Delaware). 
Here, as in most of the principal navy yards in the U. 
States, ships of war are built under the shelter of im- 
mense buildings, which protect the workmen and the 
timber from exposure to the weather. Of the two build- 
ings here, the larger one contains the line-of-battle 
ship Pennsylvania, said to be intended for the largest 
in the v/orld. She is to carry 140 or 150 guns, and is 
building under the direction of Mr. Humphreys. The 
smaller house is for frigates. The "Franklin" and 
" North Carolina, "ihips of the line, and the frigates U. 
States and Guerriere were built at this place. In 1829 
the frigate Rariton and sloop ot" war Vandalia were 
on the stocks. 

The north side (»f the navy yard is devoted to bricR 
buildings for the residence of officers, ship timber, &C. 
while at the south end are the workshops. The Ma- 
rine Barracks are on the western side ; and the area 
of the yard, which is wailed with brick, is about 12 
acres. 

The interests of the city, as well as the coasting 
trade, will be benefited by the construction of the great 



« HESAPEAKE AND DELAWARE ©ANAL, 4Q9 

Breakwater at the mouth of Delaware Bay, for which 
Congress appropriated 250,000 dollars. It is an ex- 
pensive work ; but by affording a protection to vessels 
on the coast in dangerous weather, will speedily effect 
a saving equal to the expense. 

The extensive meadows south of Philadelphia pre- 
sent a beautiful scene of fertility and cultivation. A 
ride in that direction at morning or evening is recom- 
mended. 

THE CHESAPEAKE AND DELAWARE 
CANAL. 

The steamboat Newcastle plies between Philadel- 
phia and the head of the Canal at Delaware city, five 
miles below Newcastle. A large hotel is erecting 
there. There are steamboats plying between Phila- 
delphia and several other places. On the Chesapeake 
the George Washington runs between the canal and 
Baltimore. There is a line of packets. 

This is the most gigantic work of the kind ever 
effected in the United States, in regard to the dimen- 
sions of its parts, and the size of the vessels to which 
it is intended to give a passage. The object of its 
construction was to divert a large portion of the trade 
of the Susquehannah river into Delaware Bay, chiefly 
for the benefit of Philadelphia. It was partially 
opened to navigation in April, 1828 ; and the Citizens' 
Line of packet boats having been established upon it, 
many traveller* will be anxious to avail themselves of 
an early opportunity to inspect a construction on every 
account so well worthy of attention. These boats are 
90 feet in length, and very elegant and commodious. 
Two of the finest barges are the Baltimore and the 
Philadelphia. 

It is intended for sloops of the largest class, and 
schooners : the locks being 100 by 22 feet, and the 
canal 60 feet wide at the water line. It was originally 
Mm2 



nU CUESAPJiAKE AAJJ DELAVVAlii: CAAAL, 

intended lo secure a depth of only 8 feet : but it lids 
since been increased to 10 feet. Tlie steamboats Car- 
roll and William Penn are very tine and splendid. 
The latter is 408 tons, 150 feet long, and draws only 4h 
feet of water ; of the most approved model for speed, 
with two engines of nearly eighty horse power, con- 
structed upon the most improved and safe principles. 
Her cabins are so arranged as to form at pleasure one 
entire apartment the whole length of the vessel, all of 
which is highly finished, and decorated with simpli- 
city, but great taste ; between two and three hundred 
might dine with great comfort in this apartment ; seven 
or eight hundred perhaps might be accommodated on 
her main deck. 

The principal objects upon the line which will in- 
terest a stranger ;ire, the harbour on the Delaware, the 
adjoining embankment on 8t. George's Marsh, the 
Deep Cut, and the Summit Bridge. Three towns have 
been laid out on the route : Delaware, Chesapeake, and 
Bohemia. 

The Harbour on the Delaware is at Delaware City. 
It is formed by two piers running into the water; one 
five hundred feet long, and the other six hundred, with 
a return pier of one hundred feet. Boats enter the in 
lock a little distance from this. 

Swivel Bridge. The first of three swivel bridge^ 
is passed thre*^ quarters of a mile from the Dela- 
ware. 

St. George's Marsh. This is a low, fiat tract of land, 
over which the tide ebbed and flowed until a great 
embankment was raised which serves as a towing 
path, and excludes the water. The soil was so soft 
and light, that earth was brought from a distance to 
form the bank ; which gradually sunk so far that it is 
supposed to have displaced, in some parts, a quantity- 
equal to a column of forty feet. At St. George's is 
another lock, of the usual dimensions, and a swivel 
bridge. At the end of ihree miles the Cranberry 
Marshes are aho passed : and three railes further i*? 



THE PEAAalLVAMA OAAAL. 411 

The old Mill Pond, which serves as a part of the 
canal. 

The Deep Cut is a section five miles long, w^here the 
height of the bank varies from 8 to 70 feet. Over the 
middle of it is extended the Summit bridge, a most 
imposing construction, reaching from hill to hill, with a 
single arch of 235 feet span, at the deepest part of this 
immense trench, and bearing its key at the elevation 
of 90 feet above the bottom of the canal. Schooners 
and the largest sloops may pass beneath with their 
masts standing ; and the view embraced by the eye 
from above or below is grand, impressive, and almost 
terrific. 

The Western Lift Lock is a few miles further west ; 
and beyond this a Basin, 400 by 100 feet. 

The Dehouche Lock opens at the end of the Basin 
into Back Creek, at Chesapeake Village, 4 miles from 
Chesapeake Bay. 

The principal reservoir on the line is a pond of 100 
acres, ten feet in depth. 

[The Pennsylvania Canal. 

Under this general name is comprehended a great 
and extensive system of internal improvements, for 
several years designed by the Legislature of this state. 
Numerous plans for canals and railways have been 
proposed and considered, surveys have been made of 
the principal routes supposed to be capable of im- 
provement for the benefit of the public, and consider- 
able progress has been m.ade in some places in works 
to connect the waters of the Ohio and Susquehan- 
iiah, v.'hile navigation has been opened up to the Mauch 
Chunk Mines, &c. It will be some time before the 
western Vv'orks will be so far completed as to attract 
many travellers from the established routes ; but such 
information as they may hereafter desire, may be 
looked for in subsequent editions of this little book. 



Ui:; THE PENNSYLVANIA CANAl.. 

In 1829, there were 435 miles of finished canals in 
Pennsylvania, and between 2 and 300 miles remain to 
be completed. 

The following^ is a g;eneral outline of the g:reat west- 
ern plan of internal improvements undertaken by the 
Pennsylvania Canal Commissioners, as expressed in 
their report to the Legislature. " From its commence- 
ment at Middletovvn it stretches to the Juniata — thence 
up that river to the foot of the Alleghany Mountains 
on the east, and crossing the ridge to connect the 
waters of the Susquehannah with the Alleghany and 
Ohio rivers, ascending the main branch of the Susque- 
hannah with the dividing point of the eastern and 
western branches, it contemplates an improved navi- 
gation to the sources of these great streams, as well 
as some of their tributarj^ ^ranches — presenting one 
connected chain of improved or canal navigation of 
not less than five hundred miles in extent." 

The eastern part of this work was completed in 
1827 — from the Susquehannah at Middletown to Har- 
risburgh. A Basin is formed in the river at the 
mouth of the Swatara, opposite the basin of the Union 
Canal, with which it com.municates by a lock of 2^ feet 
lift. It has also an outlet lock, and a lock opening into 
the Swatara of 9 feet lift. The canal lies principally 
in an easy, alluvial soil from the Susquehannah to Har- 
risburgh, and passes over extensive tracts of level 
country. There are ten locks in that distance, begin- 
ning with the outlet lock at Middletown. They are 
all 17 feet b 90 in the chamber, and are ^, 7, 8, and 
9 feet in the lift. On the first part of the canal, that 
is, to Clark's Ferry, 33^ miles, the breadth at bottom 
is 30 feet, at top 40, and the depth 4 ; while the re- 
mainder of the distance to Harrisburgh it is larger — 35 
at bottom, 45 at top, and 4| deep, to supply the ma- 
chinery at the latter place. The canal passes on 
aqueducts over Paxton, Fishing, Stoney, and Clark's 
creeks, and is to be supplied from the Susquehannah,. 
from 15 mile^ above Harrisburarh, Many rocks were 



THE rEM^SYLVAKIA CANAL. 413 

blasted here. There are basins at HaiTisburgh and 
Clark's creeks.*] 

* The Juniata River is a stream of a remarkably romantic character, 
being enclosed by high, rude, and rocky eminences, which present a 
constant variety of scenery. Since its course has been selected as a 
])art of the great canal route, it may be safely predicted that its scenes 
are desttned to adi-iinister to the enjoyment of many travellers. 

From the junction of the two branches the canal will run on the 
west side as far as Sunbury; a dam being constructed at Shamokin 
Kipples, which will form anexten.sive and convenient harbour for boats, 
and afford great water power lor manufactories. The Legislature have 
authorized \\\e opening of slack water navigation between the river and 
Bhamokin Coal Mines. 

On the Frankstown branch of the Juniata river, 5 miles below Franks- 
town, is an intermitting spring, which often has a flux and reflux three 
or four times in an hour. Three or four feet from it is another spring 
which flows regularly and constantly. 

The following is a listof the works authorized by the Legislature in 
1828, in pursuance of the great system of internal improvement compre- 
hended in the Pennsylvania Canal. 

Canals and locks are to be contracted for, 1st, from Northumberland 
to the Ba!d Ea<rle, on the v/est branch of the Susquehannah ; 'id, from 
JVorthumherland alon? the north branch to the New-York state line ; 
3d, from Pittsbursh, bv the Beaver route, to Erie on Lake Erie ; 4th, 
from Taylor's Ferry to Easton on the Delaware ; 5th, from Blairsville on 
the Conemaufii>''n)'to the highest practicable point. 

From 25 to 45 miles each of these sections, and the whole of the 
French Creek Feeder, were contracted for that season. 

6th. Tl^ere is to be located a road across the Ailcghany mountains, to 
connect the Juniata and Conemaugh sections, to be completed as early 
as those sections. 

7th. A railroad is to be located from Philadelphia through Lancaster 
to Columbus on the Susquehannah, 30 miles of which were contracted 
for the first year. 

8th. Surveys and examinations were made for a canal along the 
Mononsahela from Pittsburgh to Virginia. 

9rh Surveys and examinations from the Raystown branch of the 
.Juniata to the Conemaugh, for a canal or railway. 

For The expense of these two millions of dollars were appropriated. 

(T^e bank? of the Susquehannah are the most fertile in the south- 
eastern part of the state; and the mountains abound in anthracite coal. 
The mineral wealth which the great public works will draw from its beds 
onust be immense, as well as various.) 



{a) There are salt springs in the vicinity. The salt water at the Cone- 
maugh worlcs yields a bushel of salt for 300 gallons. The salt wells on 
Jhe Kiskeminetas, the same quantity for every 40 or .'iO gaiionv 



414 llOUTES TO THE COAL MIInEs 



ROUTE FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW- 
YORK. 

(See page 432.) The Railroad granted by New- 
Jersey, from Camden to Amboy, (with a branch to 
Bordentown,) will probably be soon constnicted. 

ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. 

In consequence of the opening of the vast beds of 
coal between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers, at a 
distance of about 80 or 100 miles north of Philadel- 
phia, that tract of country has become an object of 
great interest; and since the travelline has been re- 
cently improved by the construction of roads and 
canals, and the establishment of good inns, stage 
coaches, and canal boats, a jaunt in that direction is 
now a very common and fashionable one 

The Union Canal, which runs from the Schuylkill 
at Reiding to Middletown on the Susquehannah, will 
also attract travellers in this direction. Those who 
find it convenient, will be pleased to extend their 
journey west by the Pennsylvania Canal from Middle- 
town to Lancaster. The Pennsylvania Canal Com- 
pany have some of the most commodious boats on this 
line, which start from the Schuylkill below the Per- 
manent Bridge, and go to Middletown. 

[The traveller may make Bedford Springs an object 
on this route.] 

In the tract of country north from Philadelphia are 
found inexhaustible quantities of coal, in elevated 
ridges and mountains of the Alleghany range, which 
are supposed to be connected with those which are 
known on the western side of the range, although they 
are of different characteristics. The western coal is 
easily combustible, and resembles that im]>orted from 
Tiivorpool. &c.. while the. former !<? kard, very diffi- 



TllJfci COAL MlNJtB- iio 

cult to kindle, and burns with very little flame. It is, 
however, of great purity, being^ of that sort known to 
geologists by the name of Anthracite, and is now very 
extensively used for fuel in Philadelphia, New- York, 
and different parts of the country. It only requires 
a fireplace on the plan of a furnace, and a little ex- 
perience in managing it. The varieties of this coal 
come down in a kind of rude square boats, called 
arks, drawing only 12 or 15 inches of water, but con- 
taining about 250 bushels each, v^hich may usually be 
seen on the shores of the Schuylkill, and at the docks 
in the Delaware. It is only a few years since this 
coal was supposed to be entirely worthless ; and now 
the demand is enormous. In 1829,25,110 tons of coal 
came from the Lehigh mines, and 79,973 were received 
by the Schuylkill river. 

The whole length of the line of navigation, under- 
taken and completed by the Schuylkill corapfuiy, is 
110 miles; and the work is considered the greatest 
ever performed in this country by private individuals. 
It commences at the Lancaster Schuylkill bridge, and 
ends at Mount Carbon. Sixty-two miles of it are by 
canals, and 46 by pools in the river. The number ot 
houses for lock keepers is 65, the number of locks 
I below Reading, 39, (toll 6^ cents,) and above Reading, 
! 86, (toll 4 cents,) being in the whole 125, of which 
^ 28 are guard locks ; overcoming a fall of 610 feet. 
' Toll on a ton, $11 35^^ cents. In 1827, 1329 boats 
I w^ere loaded at Mount Carbon, for Philadelphia, with 
coal : in all, 31,364 tons. 

The obstacles which the surface of the country pre 
sents to works of such a nature in this state, are un- 
usually great, as may be supposed, when it is remarked, 
that eight ranges of mountains pass through Pennsyl- 
vania from north-east to south-west, and that the height 
of land is supposed to be 8 or 900 feet in the lowest 
place, so that the rivers descend very much in their 
courses. It has been necessary to make more lockage 
on the Schuvlkill line, than on the whole Erie can^I m 



Ub KOtTES TO THE COAL Jll^ES. 

New- York. Besides this, the country is of the Iraii^; 
tion formation, with sloping strata, which cause much 
leaking. 

In 1825, the expense had amounted to nearly three 
millions; and it was expected that another million 
would be required to complete the navigation. The 
articles brought down, are coal, lumber, limestone, 
iron ore, with flour, and many products of agriculture 
and manufacture. 

The amount of tolls collected in 1825, was only 
$15,775; but the canal was open only a part of the 
season. It has since greatly increased. 

Road to the Lehigh Coal Mtises. 
At Mauch Chunk. 

The mail coach for Bethlehem, Wilkesbarre, Ge- 
neva, Niagara, and Buffalo, starts from Field's, in 
Kace-street, (between 3d and 4th streets,)' on Mon- 
days, Wednesdays, and Fridays, at 6 A. M. 

The Bristol and Easton stage coach goes daily, at 
6 A. M., from North 2d street, above Market. 

The Easton mail, every week day, from 124 North 
4th street. 

* It is recommended, however, to take one of the 
Union Line Steamboats, and go up the Delaware to 
Bristol, whence stage coaches go to Easton. A packet 
boat was to be established on the canal from Easton to 
Mauch Chunk. 

Philadelphia to Rising Sun, 4 miles ; Branchtown, 
(Child's tavern,) 4 ; Shoemakertown, 8 ; Jenkintown, 
10 ; Abington, 12 ; Willowgrove, 14 ; Horsham, 16 ; 
Graham Park, 22 ; Newville, — ; Doyieston, 26 ; Dan- 
ville, 29; Roderick's tavern, — ; Tohicken bridge, — ; 
Easton, (see page 425,) 5 ; Mauch Chjjnk, (see page . 
428,) — . The traveller may tnke fith'.n' the Sta^^ 
Charh, or the 



HOU'XB To THE SCHUYLKILL UliVEs. tl 



<Janal Route to the Schuylkill Coal Mines, 
At Mount Carbon. 

The Steamboat Schuylkill goes from Fairmount 
to Manayunk twice a day. The excursion may give 
a brief introduction lo the scenery of the Schuylkill ; 
and that place is remarkably wild and singular. On 
the whole line of this river, there are no less than 31 
dams. 

In 1827, the amount of tolls taken on the Schuylkill 
was $15,775 ; and in 18-29, 8120,039. 

The canal boats start on the Schuylkill at regular 
hours, for which the traveller is referred to the news-* 
papers. A carriage will be necessary, as the boats 
lie at the western extremity of the city. 

On this route a boat with one horse performs the 
work of 7 wagons and 28 horses. Merchandise goes 
from Philadelphia to Mount Carbon for %5 a ton. 

Manayunk is a large manufacturing village, be^un 
only about 1819 or 1820. The manufactories are fur- 
nished with water by a canal 3 miles in length, through 
which the boat will pass. In 1825 there were six 
buildings of this description, some of them 150 feet 
long, called the Flat Rock, Woodville, &c. Manufac- 
tories. Keating and Co.'s is intended tor 6000 spin- 
dles, with water-looms for- weaving. The building is 
202 feet long and 45 wide. 

The water power is still sufficient for an immense 
number. There is an oil, paper, and grist mill at this 
place ; and a considerable village formed of the 
dwellings of the workmen, stores, &.c. This tract of 
country is very rich in water tails. [The county of 
Delaware, which is very small, contains about 130 
manufactories of ditlerent descriptions, moved by 
water.] 

Passing from the canal, tlio lin^t PTi+pr=; the Fl-''" 
Rock Basin and the river. 



lit) liULTES TO THE COAi. j>lIlSJtL2. 

Plymouth Locks. — Here is a canal about three- 
quarters of a mile long. A little below it is a large 
spring which supplies a mill. It yields such a sur- 
prising stream of water, that it was once proposed to 
conduct it to Philadelphia for the use of the city. The 
marble quarries are also in this vicinity ; from which 
stone is sent to the same place. 

Norristown contains some fine houses, as well as a 
court house, jail, and two churches, one in the Gothic 
style, which stands in a conspicuous situation. A cot- 
ton manufactory or two will be found here. The 
village is on the same side of the river as the canaL 
A bridge has been lately erected here 800 feet long. 

The Sluice. — This is a place where the current of 
the river was very rapid, and required a dam — 4 miles 
from Norristown. Catfish Islan<l Dam, 1 mile. 

Pottsgrove, 36 miles from Philadelphia, is a pretty 
village. 

Readings 54 miles from Philadelphia, is a place of 
considerable importance, inhabited by Germans, and 
contains some handsome public buildinjd:s. The Union 
Canal begins below the town at a point 60 miles from 
Philadelphia. 

[The UmoN Canal. 

After parting from the Schuylkill two miles below- 
Reading, this canal passes up the western shore of the 
river, to the valley of the Tulpehocken; and then 
follows that valley till within five miles of Lebanon, 
where begins the summit level. In all this distance 
it rises 311 feet, by numerous locks of 4 and 8 {eei 
lift. The canal is 24 feet wide at bottom, 4 deep, 
and 36 on the surface. The Summit Level is ten miles 
and 78 chains in length. On this part of the canal is 
the Tunnel; an excavation bored through a hill for a 
distance of 739 feet, the face of the hill having been 
cut away at the entrance 25 feet. This dark and 
doomv passage is 18 feet in breadth and 14 feet high ■ 



THE DNION CANAL. 419 

The great water-wheel, at the mouth of Clark's 
Creek, is 36 feet in diameter, and raises the water 
from the Swatara Feeder into the summit, near Leba- 
non. It works two tbrcinj2: pumps 14i inches in di- 
ameter, and propels water through a raising main 850 
feet lonof, 20 in diameter, to a perpendicular height of 
93 feet. The company have there also a steam engine 
of 100 horse power, though it is believed a head 
water of three feet. The Union canal was com- 
menced in 1823 and finished in 1827 ; and, including 
the navigable Feeder, is above 80 miles in extent. 
The whole expense was about a million and a half. 
It is supposed that after the completion of the Penn- 
sylvania canal, 200,000 tons of goods, &c., will pass 
through the Union canal in a year, at $2 a ton. The 
extension of it to the Swatara coal mines, including 4 
or 5 miles of railway on thai route, (in all 18 miles,) 
will cost about $120,000, and add about 50,000 tons 
annually. The distance to Pittsburgh from Middle- 
town, by the Pennsylvania canal, will be 296 miles. 

The trade on this canal in 1829 amounted to little 
more than that in the produce of its banks ; but 50 or 
60 boats were preparing on the Susquehannah and 
Juniata, expected to be employed in transportation 
upon it. The difference in freight to Harrisburgh is 
$4 50 per ton in favour of the canal. An abundant 
supply of water has been obtained for the lower 
levels by the feeders on the western sections ; and by 
sheathing and raising the sides on the summit, leaking 
is prevented. The dam at the Swatara was expected 
to be completed early in 1830. Near Pine Grove an 
immense quantity of coal has been discovered ; and 
the head of navigation in that direction has been fixed 
within four miles of that region. That section 
was to be done in July, 1830 ; and from its extremity 
railroads are to branch off along the valleys of the 
Swatara and its tributaries, as well as one at Fish 
Creek, to be constructed either by the company or by 
individuals. The coal, it is said, can be wrought a^: 
cheaply a« that of Mount Carbon 



420 KOUTKS TO THE COAL ]VIII>iES. 

The summit level lies on a limestone soil, which 
makes it necessary to plank the bottom and sides of 
the canal, to prevent the filtration of water. Narrow 
boats have been introduced on this canal, fn m a con- 
viction of their being of easier draft. This work was 
commenced some years ago by David Rittenhouse, 
Robert Morris, and others, but given up. The locks 
are thought capable of passing a boat every five or 
six minutes ; and the canal, it the banks and locks 
were raised one foot, would be large enouich for boats 
of 40 tons, and able to admit the passage of nearly 
two millions of tons annually. The summit level 
opens westwardly upon the valley of Clark's Creek. 
Hence the canal passes on the Swatara river, which 
has two dams, and whose course it follows to Middle- 
town on the Susquehannah. The descent to this river 
from the summit level is 10*2 feet 6 inches, surmounted 
by 37 locks. There are 12 aqueducts on the whole 
route, one of them 276 feet long, and another 165. 
There are 93 lift locks, 75 feet wide and 72 long ; 
most of them laid with water cement. The boats 
most approved for transportation on this canal are 
long, 8 feet 3 inches wide. The tolls on the most 
coarse and bu'ky articles are half per cent, per mile. 
Coal, lime, marble, pig iron, &c. pay three-quarters 
per cent. ; flour, grain, salted provisions, potash, &c. a 
cent and a quarter ; hoards, plank, &c. one cent per 
1000 feet; timber, one cent per solid foot. Salt, mer- 
chandise, &c. passing westward, pay two cents a ton 
per mile. 

The toll on passage boats is twenty cents a mile ; 
and on loaded freiafht lioats only two cents. 

"'hat part of the Pennsylvania Canal between the 
Susquehannah and Harrisburgh, was opened to navi- 
gation in 1829 ; and large tracts on different parts are 
in different stages of progress. 

The following list of places and distances by the 
canal route may prove of some interest to the traveller. 
From Middletown to the mouth of the .Juniata, 34 



TILE 3IOU2NTAIN DA3I. 4^1 

miles ; hence to Lewiston, up that stream, 45 ; from the 
mouth of the Juniata to Northumberland, 45; thence, 
up the north branch of the Susquehannah, to Nanticoke 
Falls, 55 ; from the mouth of the Juniata to Smith's 
Mills, above Huntingdon, 90; from Middletown to 
Muncy Hills, on the west branch of the Susquehannah, 
100; from Johnstown to Pittsburgh, is 104 miles. It 
is proposed to cross the Alleghany mountains by a 
railway 38 miles long, including a tunnel a mile in 
length at the summit : the whole expense of which is 
estimated at $936,000. 

We return to the Schuylkill Navigation.^ 

From Reading, the road passes for some distance 
near the river, and affords an opportunity to see the 
canals, dams, &c. made to assist the navigation. It 
passes near Duncan's Job, a piece of deep cutting in 
a solid rock, 60 feet down. This place is five or six 
miles from Reading. In 1829, a vein of Anthracite 
coal was discovered at Reamstown, half the distance 
to Lancaster. 

Numerous shafts have been sunk near the Schuylkill 
for Anthracite coal. The Peach Orchard mines afford 
beautiful particoloured specimens. In these, and 
others, specks and lumps of perfect charcoal have 
been found, imbedded in the fossil — with other ap- 
pearances which tend to raise many conjectures con- 
cerning the original formation of these mines. 

The road to Hamburgh from Reading lies through 
the Great Limestone Valley of Pennsylvania ; which 
has the Kittatinny chain of mountains on the north, and 
the Blue Ridge on the south. The surface is beauti- 
fully varied by fhe natural undulations of the surface ; 
and the road affords a very fine succession of beautiful 
scenes, where the well-cultivated farms are usually 
backed by ranges of fine mountains. The inhabitants 
dwell in good, and often handsome houses, while their 
great stone barns speak thorough husbandry. 

The Mountain Dam, near Hamburgh, is 27 feet high- 
Nn2 



liOLXKS TO THK COAL MIOSES, 



Hamburgh. 

This is a small village, with nearly a hundred 
houses, with a church situated in a romantic position, 
at the entrance of the 

Schuylkill Water Gap. — This is a narrow gorge, 
through which the river runs over a steep and rocky 
channel for four or five miles; leaving no room upon 
its banks, which rise abruptly on each side to ths 
height of several hundred feet. The road has been 
cut out along the lace of one of these ranges, at a 
great elevatitin; where the surface is in many places 
of such a declivity, as to require it to be supported 
by walls of stone. The views which are here afforded 
to the traveller are romantic and varied in a high de- 
gree ; presenting the woody mountains in diflerent 
directions, with, the course of the Schuylkill winding 
through them. There is a spring which passes the 
rov.d, remarkable only as the boundary between two 
contiguous counties. 

The Little Schuylkill River, a branch of the princi- 
pal stream, runs through a valley of the same general 
description ; and here lies the road to Mount Carbon. 
The country will hardly admit of any cultivation ; 
and (ew inhabitants are seen. 

Iron Works. — The iron works of Mr. Old are situated 
at the termination of this valley, on a small meadow, 
§hut in by mountains : a wild and secluded scene. 
The proprietor has a handsome house ; and the shops 
and dvvelli!)gs of the workmen are numerous. The 
scenery beyond retains its interesting character. 

The Tunnel. — This is a place where a hill has been 
bored through 375 yards for a canal, about three miles 
from Orvvigsburgh. 

Port Carbon, at the head of the Schuylkill navi- 
gation, is a point at which the railroads of Mill Creek 
and tho valley terminate. Six miles above, on the 



MOUKT OARB^Js. 423 

ioute of the latter, is Selzers — a new town. This rail- 
road reaches to within about eight miles of Mauch 
Chunk. 

Orwigsburgh, 

about eig:lit miles from the Gap. This village is three 
miles distant from the river, and enjoys an agreeable 
situation, although the soil is not very good. It is 
rather larger than Hamburgh, and contains a court 
house, jail, &c. The German language here prevails, 
and is used in the church as well as in the ordinary 
concerns of life. Iron has lately been discovered near 
this place. 

MOUNT CARBON, 

eight miles, is in sight of several coal mines. 

The coal country in this region begins in Luzerne, 
on the upper part of the Lackawana River, following- 
its course to the Susquehannah, and along that stream, 
principally on the eastern bank, to 18 miles beyond 
Wilkesbarre. It runs south to the Lehigh River, and 
thence south-west, through Schuylkdl county. 

It is estimated to extend about 70 miles ; and about 
the middle of the range is 8 or 9 miles wide, growing 
narrower towards each end. At Mount Carbon the 
coal occurs in beds 4 or 5 feet in thickness, generally 
running east and west ; and dipping to the south at 45 
degrees, with a slate rock immediately over it, and 
strata of sandstone and earth above. The slate, as 
usual, in the vicinity of coal, presents the impressions 
of organized substances at some ancient period im- 
bedded in its substance : such as the leaves of laurel, 
fern, &.c. 

In consequence of the inclination of the coal veins 
into the earth, the miners have, in some places, sunk 
shafts to the depth of 1.50 feet, with lateral excava- 



424 ROUTES TO THE COAL MliNEa, 

lions, east and west, of various lengths to 300. Two 
small carriages called Trams, are used in a sloping 
shaft to bring the coal out, being made to descend by 
turns ; but in the horizontal one, which has been car- 
ried in about 500 feet, Ihey employ wheelbarrows. 
Some of the veins run perpendicularly. 

Sharp Mountain, 600 feet high, and Broad Moun- 
tain, 900, are penetrated by numerous mines. The 
coal is dug out with wedges, drills, and sledges, &c. 
and as it costs only about $50 to open a mine, and no- 
thing else but labour in digging and raising it, the ad- 
vantages are not conBned to capitalists. Wagoners are 
ready to transport the coal to the landings, and put it 
into boats. 

The canal has been extended from Port Carbon up 
to Mill Creek, which will supply great quantities of 
coal. A railroad, from 5 to 8 miles long, is designed 
to be extended from Schuylkill River to the mines on 
the West Branch. In 1823 th^re were but 5 houses at 
Mount Carbon ; and in 1827 more than 100, with 1200 
inhabitants, besides the landing. 

Route to the Lehigh Coal Mines. 

At Mauch Chunk. 

The traveller going from Philadelphia to the Lehigh 
Mines, may take one of the steamboats to Bristol, 
whence a stage coach starts, on their arrival, for New- 
town and New-Hope, 34 miles from Philadelphia ; 
and thence for Easton, 36 miles more, nearly all of 
which is along the bank of the Delaware, and com- 
mands a view of its wild and interesting scenery. 

There are three routes from Philadelphia by which 
Mauch Chunk may be reached : 1st. By the way of 
Bethlehem ; 2d. By the way of Easton through 
Doylestown ; and 3d. By the way of Bristol, also 
through Easton. By either route you reach the village 
m a day and a half, ffor these places, see Tndex.'] 



E ASTON. 425 

New-Hope is in a romantic situation ; and Goat Hill 
rises opposite to the height of 500 feet, its top affording 
a fine view. 2 miles south of this village is Ingham's 
Spring, which furnishes a supply of water to no less 
than 13 water wheels. Bridges cross the Delaware to 
New-Jersey at New-Hope and Mitchell's. 

Delaware Water Gap. The scenery at this spot is 
romantic and beautiful. The course of the river 
appears at a little distance as if arrested by two op- 
posite mountains, between which it flows in a narrow 
channel, suddenly contracting itseif to a furlong's 
breadth, from a broad, smooth, and unbroken sheet 
like a lake of considerable extent. Every feature in 
this beautiful scene leads one to believe, that the bar- 
rier opposed to the water was once much higher than 
now, and that the country was consequently overflown 
for a considerable distance above the existing banks. 
There is some fertile land in the vicinity, and the hills 
contain many mineral treasures ; iron ore, &c. &c. 

EASTON. 

This is a village of some size, and a central point 
from which numerous roads direrge, and stage coaches 
run in various directions. It is situated in a rich val- 
ley, enclosed by the South and Blue Mountains. It is 
about 52 miles from Philadelphia, and contains about 
3000 inhabitants. Within a compass of a mile and a 
half are 18 mills; and 250,000 barrels of flour are an- 
nually sent to the capital. Nearly 150,000 rushels of 
grain are also consumed at the distilleries in a year, 
and converted into poison for the body and the mind. 
(Writing slates are quarried in this vicmity.) 

The following is a list of distances from Easton on 
the different stage routes. New-York, 70 miles; 
Scholey's Mountain, 23 ; Morristown, 41 ; Nevv- 
Erunswick, 45 ; Bethlehem, 12 ; Mauch Chunk, 34 ; 
JS^azaretb, 7 ; Delaware Wind Gap, 20 ; Stroudsburgh; 



4iiib iiOUTE TO THE COAL MINliS. 

27 ; VVilkesbarre, 52 ; Belvidere, 12 ; Reading, 52: 
Newtown, (Sussex county,) 40. \ 

From Newtown a coach runs three times a week, 
to Montrose, Oweg^o, Ithaca, and Geneva, and commu- 
nicates with the Erie canal, and with the direct route 
to Buffalo. 

The Delaware ai\d Hudson Canal 

was bei^un July r3th, 1825, and was navigable late in 
the year 1828. It commences at Kinijston, on the 
Hudson River, and runs over to Carpenter's Point, on 
the Delaware River, through the valley of the Never- 
sink Creek, thence up the valley of the Delaware to 
the Lacka waxen Creek, at Honesdale, and up that 
creek to the foot of the railway. This is a continuous 
canal of 106 miles in lengrth, and was completed from 
the Delaware to the Hudson in 1827, and Is now finished 
and in operation through its whole extent, and coal is 
passing- in considerable quantities. The railway com- 
mences at the termination of the canal, and runs over 
Moosick mountain* to the coal mines on the Lackawana 
Creek, in length 16 i miles, overcoming an elevation ol 
058 feet. Seven locomotive steam engines will be em- 
ployed onthree planes, and five stationary engines and 
three brakes on the ascents. The ascents where the sta- 
tionary engines and brakes are used, are graduated at 
5 degrees. The railway and all its appurtenances 
will be completed in 1828, at an » stimated expense of 
$178,000. The cost of each locomotive engine about 
^1,600, and weight about six tons. 

Carbondale is the mining village on the Lackawana 
River, opened by the Delaware and Hudson Canal 
Company. It is 8 miles from Dundaff, and 32 from 
Wilkesbarre. 

At Easton will be seen the dam ov^r the Delaware? 

'^ From this commanding height the view is fine, and the Calskill 
Monntnin?:. in IVpw-Vork. are vipjhip. at the dfstnnro of flft or 100 inile= 



at the termination of the works for improving the na- 
vigation of Lehigh River, from Mauch Chunk to this 
place. The state of Pennsylvania intend to extend 
the navigation, by a canal on the western bank of the 
Delaware, to Bristol, when the communication will be 
uninterrupted to Philadelpliia. 

The road to Mauch Chunk leads through Bethlehem, 
12 miles. This is a neatly built place, in a romantic 
and delightful situation, along the course of a swift 
running brook. It is inhabited by Germans, and little 
English will be heard spoken in the place. There is 
an old church and an academy for the education of 
girls, under the matiagement of the Moravians, to 
which sect the inhabitants belong. A little beyond 
Bethlehem the country begins to assume a more moun- 
tainous appearance ; and along the banks of the Lehigh 
they rise to a height of seven or eight hundred feet, 
or even more. 

It is related by tradition, that nearly 100 years ago, 
three men set out trom Brist(>l, to walk, between sun 
and sun, for the title to as much land as the best pe- 
destrian of them could cr« ss in that time. The suc- 
cessful one (Edward Marshall) gained for the con- 
tractors, from the Indians, a tract extending north-west 
to Still Water. He passed up the Delaware and Le- 
high, round Pocono Mountain, 6lc. a distance computed 
at 119 or 120 miles. 

The works on the Lehigh River are on a large 
scale, and worthy of particular remark. The river de- 
scends 365 feet, and requires 52 locks. The locks are 
intended for the passage of steamboats capable of car- 
rying 150 tons of coal. They will all be 100 feet 
long and 30 wide. There will be 21 dams ; and the 
canals will be 60 feet wide at the bottom, with 5 feet 
of water. The view of these works of art, combined 
with distant sights of the Blue Ridge, renders the 
Hdge highly interesting. The locks are on a new 
construction, and can be filled and emptied both in 
?even minutes by one attendant. The gate, like -' 



ii<, MAUCH €11UI\K. 

great float, is raised when the water is let in ; and, ih^. 
post being turned round, the water flows over the top 
of the gate, when it gradually sinks again. Mauch 
Chunk shows mountains perhaps 1000 feet high. 

The Lehigh Water Gap, 25 miles from Easton and 
11 from Lehighton, 6 miles from Mauch Chunk. Here 
is a bridge. 

The river, for a mile, passes through an opening in 
the Blue Ridge, with barely room for the road be- 
tween the shore and a precipice. 

Near this spot is the Devil's Pulpit, a remarkable 
cavity in the rocks. 

The first objects that attract attention near the vil- 
lage of Mauch Chunk, are tlie lock in the river, and 
the Chute, or inclined plane, at the end of the railway, 
down which the loaded coal cars slide to the wharf on 
the river, where they load the boats and arks. The 
latter carry about 10 tons. The noise of the cars com- 
ing down the railway will often be heard rumbling as 
the traveller approaches the village. 

MAucif Chunk, 

90 miles from New-York, and 10 from Philadelphia. 

There is a spacious hotel in this 5'oung and flourish- 
ing village, which has been well kept, and serves as 
the rendezvous for numerous parties of visiters every 
season. Stage coaches have heretofore run to Easton 
daily — fare $1 50 — also to Berwick, Newton, and Buf- 
falo. There are few places where a stranger will find 
more to gratify him than here. The A'illage is shut in 
by rude mountains, of such height that the sun is invi- 
sible to many of the inhabitants during the short days 
I'he hotel commands a view of some parts of 



.A *,.iuiSK KAlLVVAi 



The Railway, 

whicli leads from near the coal mines to the Lehigh 
River. This was the second ever constructed in the 
United States — tiie Qyincy Railway, in Massachusetts, 
being the first. It extends a distance of nine miles, 
along the side of a mountain. 

The sleepers, on which the railway rests, are ot 
■wood, which is found a very economical substitute for 
the iron used in England. The rails are also of wood, 
4 by 6 inches, and covered with an iron plate f of an 
inch thick. The whole construction cost, on a fair 
estimate, only $4,500 a mile ; while the lowest esti- 
mate for a road on the English plan was $10,000 a 
mile. 

The coal mine lies a little on the opposite side of the 
mountain ; and the coal cars are first drawn by horses 
to the beginning of the railway up an acclivity of | 
of a mile. The summit is 982 feet above the river. 
The whole work was performed in 2 months and 2 
days. 

Pleasure wagons, like Dearborns, are occasionally 
lised to carry strangers up and down the railway ; but 
they often go up in the returning cars. The average. 
rise of the way is 18 inches in 100 feet, which is 
scarcely perceptible to the eye, and permits a single 
horse to draw up three empty cars. Incoming down, 
however, by their own gravity, the carriages would, 
if permitted, move with immense rapidity. In 1827 
they were restricted to a rate not exceeding 8 miles an 
hour. It is said that they had previously gone 15 
>5nd even 20. The road generally passes along a nar- 
row shelf, which is alarming to a stranger- particularly 
in descending ; some of the precipices being 500 or 
600 haL 

The Tun}i€;! is seen in going up, about 400 feet 
.above the road. It is 12 feet high, 20 wide, and about 
o „ 



4o0 riii; Coal ^iiiNtb. 

800 long. It was cut through the mountain in lb2b„ 
to obtain a short passage to a bed of coal supposed to 
lie on the other side. A shaft was sunk sixty-four 
feet from the summit of the hill without finding coal ; 
five hundred teet beyond this shaft towards the north, 
a hole has been bored to the depth of one hundred 
and ten feet ; coal was found at eighty fret, and the 
auger continued in coal to the extremity of the bore. 
The Company, however, were disappointed ; but 
they have an inexhaustible supply of this useful ar- 
ticle, as their land extends 14 miles back Irom the 
river, and along the road ; and 10 or 12 miles are un- 
derlaid by beds of anthracite coal. When the Lehigh, 
the Delaware Canal, and the Morris Canal, in New- 
Jersey, shall all be navigable, New-York and Phila- 
delphia will derive immense supplies of fuel from this 
wonderful region. 

The cars are made of strong oak timbers, and 
planked up on three sides, with a swinging door in 
the rear. Some new ones, however, have lately been 
constructed, in which stout sheet iron has been sub - 
tuted for plank. They are 6 feet 4 inches long, 3 .eet 
wide at top, and 2 feet at bottom, and about 3 feet in 
depth, resting on wheels with cast iron rims or felloes 
2 feet in diameter, one inch thick, and about four inches 
in breadth, with a strong edge or flanch, one inch in 
thickness, and about two inches uide, which prevents 
them from slipping off the rails. 'J"'he cars may be 
stopped immediately by a long lever which brings 
strong bearers against two of the wheels, and causes 
great friction. The guide to every brigade of eleven 
cars holds a rope attached to all the levers. A curious 
machine, called the Brake, is also used. 

There is generally a stop to be made in the midst of 
the course, to wait lor other cars passing, and to oil the 
wheels. 

Several ingenious expedients have been resorted to 
in different parts of the railroad, to avoid some incon- 
veniences which might otherwise be caused by sudden 



MAUCH CHUNK RAILWAi . 43 i 

lurns, right angles, cross-roads, bridges, &.c. The rail- 
way is in several parts supported by a stone wall at 
the side. Cross-roads are not intercepted by it, for 
the rails are interrupted so as to correspond with the 
ruts ; at the short turns, one rail is raised in a curve of 
a few inches to give the car a new direction ; and at a 
right angle, like those at the mine and at the chute 
ahove the Lehigh, revolving platforms are placed 
which turn thf- cars round, 45 degrees. 

The cars themselves weigh about 1500 lbs. each, 
and run on wheels two feet in diameter. Strangers 
often make an excursion in them for the novelty of the 
mode of travelling. In 1827, not less than 150 such 
cars were in use. They carry the coal to the chute 
above the river, down which they are sent 215 ket. 

At the end of the railroad is a platform on the bank 
of the Lehigh River, down which the coal is let over 
one of the rails on an inclined plane of 750 feet (200 
feet perpendicular height), to the stone houses, the 
wharf, and the boats. Each loaded car is connected 
to an empty one, which it draws up, by a rope that 
passes round a large cylinder or drum. A car goes 
down in about 1 minute and 20 seconds. The noise 
of the cars on the railway is perceptible at a great 
distance. In 1827, 132 cars descended in a day, with 
198 tons of coal. 

The Mine, or quarry, as it ought, perhaps, properly 
to be called, opens upon the road by three passages, 
cut 8 or 10 feet deep in the earh. These conduct into 
an area 150 yards long and very wide, and from 8 to 35 
feet in depth, formed with great regularity, by the re- 
moval of many thousand tons of coal, which have been 
dug out in such a manner as to keep the surface on an 
inclined plane, where the carts drive in, load, and then 
pass out at the other passage. The coal is very hard, 
pure, and black, with a beautiful conchoidal fracture, 
and perfectly clean in handling. The middle, an area 
50 vards across, has been dug down many fee^ 



432 rilO-U THILADELPHIA TO NKVV-YOIJE.. 

deeper, and to it there is another entrance iioni the 
road. 

The surface of the ^Tound was covered with a coat 
of sand 2 feet thick, interspersed with sandstone; 
under that was 8 feet of black pulverized coal ; and 
then came the coal itself. Near the road is a mass of 
slaty coal in undulated strata which is of inferior 
quality. 

Near the south or further side of the mine, some 
beautiful impressions of fern leaves have been found 
in the rocks. 

[Bituminous coal has been found, in an extensive 
mine, at Lick Creek, near the Jersey shore, Lycoming^ 
county, in Pennsylvania.] 

Lowryto-sDn, 15 miles above Mauch Chunk, is situ- 
ated on the Lehigh River, in the midst of a most wild 
and romantic region. Here are four saw-mills, which 
are supplied with timber from the surrounding moun- 
tains ; the trees being cut far above, and slid down 
their steep sides into the stream. Arks go down, as 
en the lower parts of the river, by being set off on 
the flood caused by opening the gate of the dam. 
Ladies sometimes pass down in this manner, boxes 
being resorted to instead of arks, to keep out the wa- 
ten. Materials for building arks at Mauch Chunk, &c. 
are supplied from Lowrytown. 

Wilkesbarre. A rough road conducts to this place. 



KOUTE FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW- 
YORK. 

A Railroad, to go from Camden to Amboy, in New- 
Jersey, vf'-'.] perhaps soon become a route for travellers. 

Going in a steamboat from Market or Arch-street 
wharf, the ship house, in the navy yard, is seen over 
the little island in the river. Near the upper part of 
the city are the ship yards ; and beyond, three glas« 
hou«es near the water, with white walls and blarV 



BORDENTOWN. 4oo 

TOois. A sieeple and a shot tower arc the principal 
oiijects rising above the great mass of houses in the 
city. 

The banks of the Delaware are low, and present a 
uniformity quite unfriendly to the picturesque. The 
towns are, however, inteiesting in the history of the 
Revolution, as will be seen a little beyond. 

BURLINGfON, 

in New-Jersey, 18 miles from Philadelphia, presents a 
handsome appearance ; with a row of fine residences 
facing the river, in front of which is a street with a 
beautiful sloping bank. 

Bristol, 

a little above, and on the opposite side, has also a 
number of gentlemen's seats ; and handsome flower 
gardens on the bank, ornamented with fine willows, &c. 
A stage coach goes hence to Easton every day, on the 
arrival of the steamboat — price of a passage, $?>. 

BoRDEWTOWN, 

28 miles from Philadelphia, and 7 below Trenton, 
stands on a steep sand bank, through which a road is 
cut to the water. Just north of the village is the 
house of Joseph Buonaparte, the Count de Survilliers, 
once king of Spain. It is a long white building, with 
two low square towers at the ends, and a shot tower 
near it by the river. 

Coal Haven is a little town on the west side of the 
river, six miles above, where arks and boats laden with 
coal from the Lehigh mines, await the boats that tow 
fhem^ to Philadelphia. 

Oo2 



4o4 FRO.M PHILADELPHIA TO NEVV-VOKh: 



Trenton, 

33 miles from Philadelphia. Here the Union Line 
Steamboats stop, except when the water is low ; when 
they sometimes land opposite Bordentown. Trenton 
is a town of considerable size, with a great number 
of stores, and the aspect of business- The bridge 
across the Delaware has five arches, and is a hand- 
some structure. 

Lamberton is a village where the coach offices are. 
and apparently forms a part d( Trenton. 

The State Prison is situated a little south of the 
town. 

In Dec, 1776, the English had 4000 men on the east 
side of the Delaware, in Trenton, Bordentown, Black- 
horse, and Burlington, with strong detachments at 
Princeton and New-Brunswick, wnth their magazines. 

On Christmas night, three divisions of the American 
troops attempted to cross the Delaware : one at Bristol 
for Burlington ; one a mile below Trenton ; and one 
nine miles above, under Washington and Greene. 
This was the largest, but principally militia ; it ap- 
proached Trenton by two roads, attacking it at 8, A.M. 
very unexpectedly, and putting the English and Ger- 
man troops (about 1500) to the rout. Five hundred 
escaped ; the rest surrendered, being the regiments of 
Ralle, Anspach, and Knyphausen. Ralle was killed 
in resisting. The other divisions could not cross on 
account of the ice, and Washington returned with his 
captives and six pieces of artillery. This successful 
stroke greatly encouraged the country, as it was the 
first victory over those German mercenaries. 

Washington soon after re-crossed the river, and 
posted his army at Trenton. On the 2d of Jan., 1777, 
Lord Cornwallis reached Trenton ; and Washington 
fortified himself on the Assumpsick. But he was too 
weak to hazard an engagement j and the Delaware 
•was filled with ice, 



Bein^ hardly pressed, Washington had lormed the 
plan of a retreat, expecting: to be unable to remove 
any thing- but the soldiers and what they could carry, 
as the soil was so unfavourable, and the weather so 
mild and wet, that wagons could not pass. Corn- 
wallis had sent to Princeton for a regiment to join 
him, that he might attack the Americans immediately. 
In the night, however. Gen. Greene reported that the 
weather had suddenly become cold ; and at midnight, 
Washington was able to begin his march, with all his 
baggage and artillery. The British had no intimation 
of their departure until they, heard the guns firing at 
Princeton. 

PRINCETON, 10 miles. 

This village is situated on an elevated ridge of 
land, which, on several sides, rises with a long and 
easy slope, and commands a prospect of considerable 
extent. 

In approaching it from the west, the Theological 
Academy, which is of stone and 4 stories high, is seen 
on the right ; and Nassau Uall in the centre of the 
town, opposite the stage house. The college yard is 
large and shaded with trees; and the burying ground 
contains the ashes of the presidents of the institution : 
Aaron Burr, Jonathan Edwards, Samuel Davis, Samuel 
Finley, John VVisherspoon, and Samuel S. Smith. 

Washington met at Stoney Brook,' north of the 
present road, a little way from Princeton, and defeated 
the British regiment. He then marched north to the 
higrh grounds. 

During the battle of Princeton, it is related that a 
cannon shot entered the chapel, and tore away the 
head from a portrait of George III. 

ffri) Brunswick. Here the steamboats start for 
New-York. Th.i stage coaches drive through a part 
of the village to the steamboat wharf. The forenoon 
h'»e stops at the hotelfor the night. 



r.)0 FEOIH rillLAPELPIIIA TO :sM•^V-YOrvK.. 

»The view is pretty from the hill above ; whence th 
public buildings appear to good advantage, particu- 
larly the Rutgers Theological Seminary, which is 
under the synod of the Dutch Reformed Church. 
The banks below are picturesque, but afterward are 
low and little varied. 

In the spring of 1777, Washington advanced from 
near Morristown to Middlebrook, where he intrenched 
himself on the heights, in full view of New-])runs- 
wick. The British tried various stratagems to decoy 
him from this commanding position, and once suc- 
ceeded ; but discovering their intentions to surround 
him, he quickly regained it, and they were soon after 
obliged to give up all hopes of penetratmg in this di- 
rection, and devoted their attention to co-operating 
xvith Gen. Burgoyne, who was coming down towards 
Albany. 

Perth Amboy, 13 miles. Mere is usually some ship- 
png. Tl<ere is an academy at this place on Capt. 
Partridge's plan. 

Elizahetiitown Pidni^ 15 miles from New-York. 
The village is partly seen about 2 miles inland. 

Staten Island is large and elevated, with but few 
inhabitants, and a small cluster of houses. . 

On entering New-York Bay, Fort Lafayette is seen 
in the Narrows, between Staten and Long Island, 
which is the passage to the sea. The city presents a 
close mass of houses, with Castle Williams on Go- 
vernor's Island, seen nea* it on the right ; and Ellis's 
and Bedlow's Islands on the left, with their tbr-ifica- 
tions. On approaching, the prominent objects are the 
tall pyramidal steeple of Trinity church, the more or- 
namented one of St. Paul's, and the distant top of the 
Catholic Cathedral, &c. &c. The clusters of trees 
observed on the shore in front of the city, are on the 
Battery, a place once fortified, but now the principal 
public square ; and Castle Clinton, just west of it, is a 
place of amusement. {_See the vignette on the titlepage.'^ 



Al'l'EADlX. 45T 

FOREIGN MONEYS. 

deduced into those of the United States, at j^>ar value. 

n British Sterling is 4,444 4-9 Mills. 

/I Iiish is 4,102 32-39 do. 

1 fr. or 100 centimes (French) is 1775 do. 

$1 of plate or 20 reals pi. (Cadiz) is 1,000 do. 
$1 of Havana 8 do. 

1 milrea of Portug-alor lOOOreas is 1,250 do. 

1 Ducat or 100 grains (Naples) is 777 1-8 do. 

1 Mark Banco or 16 shill. (Ham.] is 333 1-3 do. 

1 Rix Dol. or 12grotes (Bremen) is 750 do. 

1 Guilder or 40 grotes (Antwerp) is 400 do. 

1 Florin or 20 slivers of (Holland) is 400 do. 

Zl Halifax Currency (N. A. Prov.) is 4,000 do. 

1 dollar or 8 reals (Havana) is 1,000 do. 

FOREIGN WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 

Reduced into those of the United States. 

Great Britain is generally the same. The new im- 
perial measure, however, is about 3 per cent, larger 
than the VVinchester,'22 gallons of the old being equal 
to 31 of the nev/ imperial — one quarter contains 8 
Winchester or American bushels. The fodder of Lead 
in London and Hull is 19^ cwt. The tun of Oil, 252 
gallons. — The last of Tar, 12 barrels. The load of 
Timber 50 cubic feet. 
FRANCE— 45 35 100 Kilogrammes are equal to 100 

lbs. 
SPAIN— 1 arrobe is 25 lbs. Spanish equal to 24 

4 arrobes, 1 quintal, 96 

The barra varies from 27i to 33 1-8 ins. 

The same of Cadiz is 27i 

The arrobe of Wine and Oil is 4 gals. 

From 40 to 11 nrmbp^ make 1 pipe. 



438 Ai'rE>'Dix. 

1 Fanega of Corn and Salt is h bus. and 1 quart- 

15 Fanegas are about 8 bus. 

PORTUGAL— 32 lbs. or 1 arrobe is .33 lbs. 

4 arrobes or 1 quintal is 132 

Cloth meas. 1 vara 43 1-7 ins. the covido26 1-3 ins. 

Wine 4 quarteels are 1 Canado or 3 pints. 

12 Canados 1 almuda or 4i gals. 

The moy of Corn and Salt at Lisbon is 24 bus. 
" " at Oporto 30 

" " inFiguieras 55i 

HAMBURG— 1 lb. equal to 1 lb. 7 oz. 

1 li.spound 16 5 

ANTWERP— 100 lbs. or quintal is 104 lbs. 

New qll. ol 10 myriagramnes 204 lbs. 14 oz. 

Canada and Nova Scotia same as the United States. 

POUNDS AND DOLLARS. 



Sterling. 




Cents. 


Mills. 


Id. 


i* 


1 


85 


2 


is 


3 


70 


3 


is 


5 


55 


4 


JS 


7 


49 


5 


is 


9 


25 


^ 


is 


11 


11 


7 


is 


li? 


96 


S 


is 


14 


81 


9 


is 


16 


66 


10 


is 


18 


51 


11 


is 


20 


36 


12 


is 


22 


22 



INDEX, 



A. 

Albany . . . 39. 46 

Alexandria {D. C.) . 387 

Amboy ... 436 

Amherst. . , . 282 

Andre's Grave . . 23 

Capture and Execution 29 

Andovtr . . . 334 

Anthony's Nose, Hudson 

River . . . 26 

on Erie Canal . . 57 

Lake George . . 177 

Antiquities 72. 83. 113. 124. 377 

Aqueduct, Lower . bb 

Upper, . . 55 

at Little Falls 61 

Rochester , . 74 

over the Delaware 33 

Arnold's Treachery . 28 

Armory .... 273 

Arsenals 

Gibbonsville . . 49 

Quebec . . 223 

A.scutney Mountain . 290 

Assoinption River . 213 

Attleborough . . . 315 

Auburn ... 122 

B. 

Baker's F.ills . . . 246 

Ballston Springs . 145 

Saltimore . . .389 

Bangor ... 380 

Bartlett . . . .352 

Basin Harbour . . 189 

Batavia . . . .115 

Bath (Maine) . . 376 

{N. H.) . 295 

'N.Y--' 15 



Battle of Bemis's Heights 

Bennington . 

Bloody Brook 

Bridgewater, or Lun- 
dy's Lane 

Bunker's Hill 

Chippewa . 

Erie 

Groton 

Johnstown 

Lake George 

Lexington 

xMontmorency 

Pequod . 

Plattsburgh 

Princeton 

Quebec 
Do. in 1775 

Queenstown 

Rocky Brook 

Sachem's Field 

Saratoga 

Ticonderoga 

Trenton . 

Turner's Falls 

White Plains 
Beaufort 
Bellows Falls 
Bethlehem 
Beverly 
Black Rock . 
Biackwell's Island 
Bloody Brook 

Pond 
Blorinafield . 
Blue Hills . 
Books recommended 
Borough 
Boston 



135 
134 



91 

321 
29 
102 
298 
57 
170 
333 
233 
247 
191 
435 
230 
ib. 

81 
165 
305 
135 
174 
434 
295 
22 
231 
288 
427 
363 
109 
248 
283 
166 
116 
316 

19 
131 
SI 8 



4 40 



IJordenlowu . . , 433 
Urattlcborough . ■, 2fi7 
Bristol .... 433 
Brock's MoKiiraent , R2 

BaftPiy . . o £26 
Erookfield . . . r.3i 
BniTalo . . . . 109 
3?imker's Hill . . 3^2 
Bursfoyne's, Gen., Expe- 
dition . . . 133 
J^atlle Ground . .135 
Quarters . . 143 
■ /Surrender . . .159 
Builinoffon, N. ./., . 433 
Vermont . ISO. 293 
U. Canada . 100 
Bytown .... 209 

C. 

Caldwell . . .168 
Cambridi^o. . . 324 
Canada, General Be- 

marks on . • ^92 

Canals. ^ 

Blackstone Canal . ^"-^ 
Cayuga and Seneca . ^^^ 
Cavii^a and Su^qiK Han- 
nah . . . 122 
Champlain ... 53 
Cheromig . . 120 
Chesnprake and Ohio SBd 
Delaware and Hudson 31 
Erie . . 102 111 

Farmington . . 253 
Maine ... 376 
Morris . . .17 
Ohio ... 400 
Oswego . . C9. 106 
Pennsylvania . . 411 
Kideau . . .208 
Welland ... 92 

Canal Boat, Description qf\Al 
Canajoliarie ." . SS 

Canandaigna . . .115 
Cape Diamond . . 227 
Carpenter's Poinf, . . ' 32 
j^vrhage ... 75 



Catskili . _ . 

Mouniain.s 
Caughniiwas^a 
Cayuga Lake 
Centre Harbour 
Charably . 
Charlestov/n, Mass. 
N.H. 
Chazy , 
Chelmsford 
Chimney Point 
('hip{)ewa . 
Citadel of Queb 
Cincinnati . 
Clavtrack 
Cleaveland . 
Coal Mines of Pa^ 
» R. Island 
Colleges 

Amherst . 

And over 

Brown 

Burlington . 

Canibridcje 

Dartmouth . 

Hamilton 

Union . 

Washington . 

7de . . 
ConciH-d . 
Congres^JIall 

Spring ••,,. • 
Connecticut ^-^vcr 
Conway 

Crawford's House . 
Crown Point 



1:2* 
34; 
23^ 
320 
28S 
192 
336 
186 

89 
225 
401 

38 

398 

414, Sic. 

SC9 



190 

324 

294 

63 

55 

266 

250 

337 

154 

156 

258. 257 

346 

353 

1?6 



Dear and Dumb Asylunas 26:= 

Dedham. . . .318 

Deerlield . . . 2S-: 

Dieskau, Gen., • • ITj • 

Dobb's Ferry . • -■ • 

Dorchester Heights • 32^: 

Dnndns . . . IO(i 

Dunninuf'Strcet • • 'S- 





INWKX . 


E 




Mohawk's 


East Bay 


241 


Montgomery 


East Canada Creek . 


58 


Niagara . 


Eastport 


379 


Oswego 


East River 


247 


Plain . 


Easton . . . . 


425 


Putnam 


Elizabethtown . 


436 


Rouse's Point 


Essex, Conn. 


258 


Say brook . 


JV. Y. . . 


190 


Stanwix . 


F 




Ticonderoga 


Fairfield 


247 


Trumbull 


Falls, 




Washington 


Baker's . 


245 


William Henry 


Beliows 


288 


Wolcott . 


Carthage . 


75 


Fryeburgh 


Catskill 


33 


G 


Claverack . 


38 


Gallway 


Glenn's . . 


163 


Gasport 


Cohoes 


55 


Gates's, Gfin., Camp 


Ithaca . 


121 


Geddesburgh 


Little. 


59 


Genesee River 


Miller's . 


246 


Geneseo . 


Montmorency . 


231 


Geneva . 


Niagara . 


80 


Georgetown, D. C. . 


Rochester . 


75 


German Flats 


South Hadley 


275 


Glenn's FaUs . 


Trenton . 


83 


Goderich 


Turner's . 


285 


Grand River 


Fishkill Mountain . 


30 


Gravesend . 


Flushing . 


14 


Green Bay 


Fraoaingham 


331 


Greenfield 


Franeonia . 


296 


Guelph 

Gulf Road . 


Frazer's Death 


. 140 


Grave . 


143 


H 


Forts. 




Haddam . 


Adams 


306 


Hadley . 


Anne 


243 


Hallowell . 


Clinton 


25 


Hampton 


Crown Point . 


186 


Hanover . 


Edward . 


245 


Hserlem 


Erie 


102 


Hartford, Conn. 


George 


172 


Vermont 


Green . 


308 


Hatfield . 


Griswold . 


. 298 


Haverhill, Mass. . 


Herkimer 


62 


N. H. 


Independence 


23 


Hell Gate . 


Lee 


22 


Herkimer . 


Miller 


246 
P? 


Gen. 

1 



XSJ'EX. 



Highlands . 
Hoboken 


24 


■ 21 


Honesdale . 


33 


Horseneck 


. 247 


Hudson 


37 


River 


. 20 


Hydrostatic Lock 


52 


Indians. 




Menorainies 


. 113 


Mohawks 


.59 


Moheus;ans . 


. 303 


Pokanokets . 


308 


Oii»"idas 


. 66 


P«quods . 


247. 299 


Senecas 


. 114 


Tnscaroras 


78 


Isle aux Noix , 


. 19:3 


Ithaca 


121 


J 




Jacques Cartier 


. 219 


Johnson, Sir Wm,, 


172 


Johnstown 


. 57 


Junction . 


53 


K 




Kennebunk . 


. '371 


Kidd, the Pirate, 


255 


Kinderhook . 


. 38 


Kingston . 


31 


Do. U. C. 


. 105 


Kosciusko's Retreat 


26 


Ktardin Mountain . 


. 380 


L 




Lackawaxen 


33 


Lafayette Spring . 


. 147 


Lakes. 




Cayuo-a 


. 120 


Canandai^ua . 


116 


Champlain . 


. 238 


Erie 


101 


George 


. 166 


Do. Excursion to, 


162 


Of th« Clouds 


359 


Ontario 


. 101 


St. Peter 


216 


Saratoga . 


. 157 


Seneca . 


120 


Winnipiseogee . 


. 341 



Lancaster . ii9'7 

Laprairie .197 

Lebanon Springs . 42 

Leroy . .^ , . 116 

Lewistown . » 77 

Lexintiton . . .333 

Little Falls . . 69 

Little Schuylkill . . 422 

Lock port . . 77 

Long-Rranch . . 16 

Lonsr Level • . 62 

Lorette . . .235 

Lovel's Fight . . 349 

Pond . . 348 

Lowell ... 335 

L.mdy'sLane . . 91 

Lynn . . • 363 

M 

Maps recommended . 19 

M'Crea's IMurder . 244 

M'Doriough's Victory . 191 

Machiche . . 213 

Manayunk . . .417 

BJaps. 
See beginning of the volume. 

Marblehead . . • 365 

Mauch Chunk . . 428 

Mechanicville . • 131 

INIiantonimo . • 305 

Michiffan . • • 1^2 

Middletown . • 260 
Military Academy— West 

Point . . 27 

Mohawk Castle . . 69 

Moheasiitn • 302 

Montmorency .231 

Montpelier - • 292 

Montreal . • .199 

IMorristown . . W8 

Mount Ascutney . . 290 

C.irbon . 423 

Holyoke . . 278 

Hope . . 308 

Vernon . . 3&7 

Washington 357 

JNahant ... 324 

Newark ... 



INDEX. 



New- Brunswick . 


435 


Prisons, State. 


Newburgh 


30 


Connecticut 


Newburyport 


366 


Maine 


New-Haven . 


249 


Massachusetts . 


New-Lebanon Springs 


42 


New-York . 24. 


New- London . 


297 


New- Hampshire 


Newport 


306 


Pennsylvania 


New-York 


9 


Vermont 


Niagara Falls 


77 


Profile Mountain . 


Norristown 


418 


Providence 


Norwich 


303 


Q 


Northampton . 


276 


Quebec 


Notch in the Mountains 


•^ss 


Qiieenstown . 


Meadow 


355 


Quincy 


O 




R 


Ogdensburg 


108 


Rapids of Niagara 

Richelieu . 


Ohio . , . . 


397 


Oneida 


66 


St. Mary 


Orwigsburgh 


42:^ 


Red Mountain . 


Oswego 


106 


Reidesel, Baroness, 


Oswego Canal 


69 


Rensselaerwyck . 


Ottawa River 


208 


HidgeRoad . 


Ox Bow 


295 


Route to Maine 


P 




of New-England 


Palatine 


59 


to Niagara . 


Palisadoes 


21 


to the Pennsylvania 


Faterson 


. 18 


Coal Mines 


Pawtncket 


313 


to Canada 


Penitentiary of N. Yort 


: 248 


to the White Mountains 


Perth Amboy 


436 


Railroads. 


Philadelphia 


402 


Quincy 


Pickwaket Mountain 


346 


Baltimore and Ohio 


Piermont 


. 295 


Mauch Chunk . 


Pine Orchard . 


35 


Rochester 


Piitsburgh 


. 398 


Rome .... 


Plainfield . 


306 


Rouse's Point 


Plains of Abraham 


. 228 


Roxbury 


Pittsburgh 


191 


Royalton 


Plymouth 


. 328 


Rockaway 


Port Gtnesee . 


105 


S 


Port Maitland 


. 94 


Saco 


Port Kent 


190 


Sacket's Harbour 


Port Dalhousie 


. 98 


St. Alban's 


Portland 


371 


St. Catharine's 


Portsmouth . 


. 368 


St. John's 


Pouiibkeepsie . 


31 


St. Lawrence . 198. 


Prescott 


. 105 


Salem 


Princeton 


435 


Salina . - 69. 



2SS 
378 
321 
12S 
335 
403 
289 
296 
309 



81 
316 

;.86 

218 
312 

342 

143 

48 

77 

362 

246 

47 

414 
180 

33S 

316 

392 

429 

73 

68 

192 

317 

291 

15 

37 i 
107 
192 
97 
194 
213 
346 
32-5 



^44 



1M>EX. 



Salt works 
Salt Springs 
Sar.du«ky 
Sandy Flill , 
Saratoga 
Sanaferties 
Say brook 
Scbenectady 
Schoharie Creek 
Scbooley's Mountain 
Schuylersviile . 
Schuylkill River 



68. 



Shaker Village 
Singsino; 

Sleepy Hollow . 
Sorel S'^illa^e 

Albany .* 

Ballston 

Burning 

Chalybeate 

CoJiinibia 

N<:w-Lebanon 

Saratoira 

SufKeld 

Virginia 

White Mountains 
Springfield 
■♦quura L-'ke 
Stafford 
'?taten Island 
Stillwater 
Stonington 
Stoney Point 
Sugar- Loaf Hill 
Syracuse 

Table Rock 
Tappan 
Tariffville . 
Tarrytown 
Taiuiton 
Trenton 
Thaiiics River 
Thimhle T*laiids 



Waterworks 407 



72 

71 

1)1 

164 

153 

33 

256 

55 

56 

15 

159 

417 



45,46 
24 

24 
215 

40 
145 
117 

347 

37 

42 

153 

272 

389 

347 

273 

345 

371 

436 

131 

300 

24 



84 
24 
267 
23 
310 
434 
301 



Thomastowu 


378 


Three Rivers , 


217 


Ticonderoga . - ' 


• 179.239 


Troy . . . 


50 


U 




Uncas 


303. 305 


Utica . 


. 62 


V 




Vernon, Mount 


. 387 


Verplanck's Point 


24 


W 




Wadswortb's Farm 


. 115 


Walpole, N. H. 


287 


Mass. . 


. 316 


Ware . . 


332 


Wsshington 


. 381; 


Wachusett Hiils 


27C 


Waterford 


. 12S 


Water Gaps 422 


. 425. 428 


Weehawken 


. 21 


Weigh Locks 


52 


Wf Hand Canai 


92 


Welles 


370 


West Point . 


. 20 


Wethersfield, Conn. 


262 


Ver. 


. 289 


Whirlpool 


83 


Whitehall . 


. 241 


White Mountains 


350 


River 


. 290 


Willey House . 


354 


WilliauQstown 


. 242 


Wilmington, Del. 


396 


Windsor, Conn. 


. 271 


Ver. . 


289 


Wiscasset 


. 377 


Wolfe's Cove 


219, 229 


Wood Creek, near Lake 


Chaniplaiu 


. 243 


Worcester 

Y 
York, U. C. 


269 


. 101 


Maine 


. S69 


Z 




Zanesvjile 


«<■ 



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